Author Topic: Resistance Wire going to Ignition Coil  (Read 549 times)

jherold

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Resistance Wire going to Ignition Coil
« on: April 27, 2020, 03:42:29 PM »
I too have an HEI Mallory Distributor, to get rid of points, and it requires use of the resistance wire that drops down supply voltage to the coil while in run.  However,  mine is looking kind of worn and burnt.  I've noticed that it will burn its way out of the plastic electric tape wrap of the harness over time.  Is this normal?  It makes sense that it would get warm, being a resistor, but how warm?

Does anyone know where I can buy JUST the resistance wire without having to purchase the entire harness?
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z28z11

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Re: Resistance Wire going to Ignition Coil
« Reply #1 on: April 28, 2020, 01:20:13 PM »
Consider running a separate circuit with an external ballast resistor ? I used to run a Mallory DP with a Voltmaster 40K Mallory coil, required a ballast resistor to supply the down voltage to the coil, never had an issue with it on the two different vehicles I ran it on.
Cosmetically challenged, but you're already running an HEI -

Regards,
Steve
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jherold

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Re: Resistance Wire going to Ignition Coil
« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2020, 11:52:17 AM »
Thanks Steve.  Yeah, that is an option.  I chose the Mallory dist because it didn't scream  "MODIFICATION" but your right that it isn't stock.  What a pain in the A__ those points are though!   Weird you can't just find that resistance wire......... (Unless you want to lay out another $150 for the entire harness, lol)  Have a goodun.
1969 SS Convertible acquired in 1977.                   
Deluxe Houndstooth interior, original cowl hood, Pearl white exterior,

firstgenaddict

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Re: Resistance Wire going to Ignition Coil
« Reply #3 on: May 18, 2020, 05:20:09 PM »
Has your resistance wire been shortened at any point in time? This could cause the wire temp to rise OR if either end has more resistance INCLUDING YOUR GROUNDS - ENGINE to firewall - FIREWALL to FRAME - BATTERY TO ENGINE - loosen connection slightly, work ring under the screw back and forth then re-tighten if there are no star washers ADD them - any added resistance will cause electrical problems to go ballistic -
James
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