Author Topic: Getting the correct bell housing finish ???  (Read 7994 times)

uscrichter

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Re: Getting the correct bell housing finish ???
« Reply #15 on: April 02, 2020, 06:45:42 PM »
I have used my soda blaster for the bell housings and transmission with which look pretty good as well!

Mike S

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Re: Getting the correct bell housing finish ???
« Reply #16 on: April 02, 2020, 06:51:24 PM »
I have used my soda blaster for the bell housings and transmission with which look pretty good as well!
  Which type? I was wonder if the Harbor Freight unit would work with small items like a bell housing or transmission body and what grade soda media did you use.

Mike
« Last Edit: April 02, 2020, 07:36:46 PM by Mike S »
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ZLP955

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Re: Getting the correct bell housing finish ???
« Reply #17 on: April 02, 2020, 08:29:49 PM »
That's the passenger side. Maybe for a RH drive car?...Joe
Not with the clutch fork hole on the left, it would have to be a different casting.
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uscrichter

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Re: Getting the correct bell housing finish ???
« Reply #18 on: April 02, 2020, 08:41:17 PM »
Yes, The soda blaster I have is the blue one from harbor freight and I also use it to strip paint on panels that will warp with other media and it works great as long as you keep the air dry! 

rszmjt

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Re: Getting the correct bell housing finish ???
« Reply #19 on: April 02, 2020, 08:58:17 PM »
Hate to hijack, but in Lloyd's picture, the upper bellhousing has a boss with a hole on the passenger side upper corner, while the lower one does not. Seems to mirror the boss on the driver's side in Dave's pictures at the beginning of this thread. Why the difference, and which one would be correct for the '69 model year?

There is another post on the Yenko site about 403 bellhousing differences I have been involved in under-
“Technical & Restoration”

FWIW I have found 403 bellhousings with the mold numbers 1-9, and some have the extra boss and some don’t. It seems like late 69, early 70 the rh boss is more frequent.

Lloyd , which bellhousing is out of your car and can you post pictures of both bellhousing cast part number areas including the status markers and mold number 1-9. I’ll add them onto my bellhousing list. Thanks.

Mike.

x66 714

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Re: Getting the correct bell housing finish ???
« Reply #20 on: April 02, 2020, 09:11:39 PM »
That's the passenger side. Maybe for a RH drive car?...Joe
Not with the clutch fork hole on the left, it would have to be a different casting.
Right. I wasn't thinking the whole thing through...Joe
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Edgemontvillage

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Re: Getting the correct bell housing finish ???
« Reply #21 on: April 03, 2020, 01:57:35 AM »

Hate to hijack, but in Lloyd's picture, the upper bellhousing has a boss with a hole on the passenger side upper corner, while the lower one does not. Seems to mirror the boss on the driver's side in Dave's pictures at the beginning of this thread. Why the difference, and which one would be correct for the '69 model year?

There is another post on the Yenko site about 403 bellhousing differences I have been involved in under-
“Technical & Restoration”

FWIW I have found 403 bellhousings with the mold numbers 1-9, and some have the extra boss and some don’t. It seems like on known original cars that late 69, early 70 the rh boss is more frequent.

Lloyd , which bellhousing is out of your car and can you please post pictures of both bellhousing cast part number areas including the status markers and mold number 1-9. I’ll add them onto my bellhousing list. Thanks.

Mike.


Happy to post photos Mike, my original 403 is at my shop (that photo is about 2 years old) and the other bellhousing on the stack is from a 68Z, don't recall which is which. I'll post photos in the next couple of days.

Edgemontvillage

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Re: Getting the correct bell housing finish ???
« Reply #22 on: April 05, 2020, 09:52:31 PM »
Additional photos of bellhousings (as requested by Mike rszmjt )

1. My original (with additional boss)


 

2. Buddy's 403 bellhousing 4C LOS 68 Z (not original to the car) NO boss

rszmjt

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Re: Getting the correct bell housing finish ???
« Reply #23 on: April 05, 2020, 10:07:46 PM »
Thanks very much Lloyd.

If the first picture posted is your bellhousing it appears “ not” to have the additional RH passenger side boss. The second picture looks like the drivers side boss? FWIW All 403 bellhousings have the drivers side boss but the passenger side is hit & miss. Yours is mold 8 and appears to be dated 10 month /4th week ? Think your car is 02B?
Your buddy’s bellhousing is mold 3, it has the additional gm logo by 403 number, again hit & miss. It also has the raised rib around the casting number. I have yet to see a bellhousing with the additional GM casting logo without this raised lip .

Edgemontvillage

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Re: Getting the correct bell housing finish ???
« Reply #24 on: April 06, 2020, 03:37:00 AM »
Yes, you're correct Mike, I've mixed up the descriptions and yes my Z is a 2B Norwood car. Here is the GM casting from my buddy's 403. You'll note the letter font is different from the one on my bellhousing




rszmjt

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Re: Getting the correct bell housing finish ???
« Reply #25 on: April 06, 2020, 04:58:57 AM »
Thanks very much Lloyd.  It’s weird they changed the GM font, I’m wondering if GM had 2 casting plants, I’ve been keeping a small record of 403 bellhousing differences for quite awhile .

Cheers and Stay Safe.
Mike.

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Re: Getting the correct bell housing finish ???
« Reply #26 on: April 06, 2020, 03:22:46 PM »
Were there any right hand drive chevrolets built?  Would explain the boss on the right.
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x66 714

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Re: Getting the correct bell housing finish ???
« Reply #27 on: April 06, 2020, 05:27:47 PM »
Were there any right hand drive chevrolets built?  Would explain the boss on the right.

I thought of that also but there is no fork hole...Joe
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DAVEN1256

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Re: Getting the correct bell housing finish ???
« Reply #28 on: April 09, 2020, 05:16:57 PM »
In reply #10, I said that had I found three companies in the Orlando, FL area that did dustless blasting and that I was going to check out the one that seemed the most promising.

Well, that didn't work out so well. I thought I had communicated with the  guy over the phone the finish I was after. Maybe his idea of what a "satin" finish was and mine were two different things. When I got there, the guy I spoke to on the phone was not there and but a couple of his workers were. When I started talking to them about what the final finish would look like, what they told me didn't sound right. I asked them to hit a small area on the inside of the bell housing so I could see what it would look like. It was nothing like what Lloyd's vapor blasted bell housings look like! It just looked like basic blasting. Rough and dull. So I politely thanked them but told them I didn't want to do it. They were nice guys and said no problem. It didn't cost me anything, just some time!

So the one thing I learned from this is that dustless blasting and vapor blasting are not necessary one and the same. I'll have to check if there are any others who do vapor blasting in the area. This time though, I would send them the picture of Lloyd's bell housings and be sure that's what the finished product would look like before even leaving the house.

This was never something I was looking to put a lot of effort or money into. I wanted to check out the vapor blasting since it was mentioned and the results looked great. If the blasting doesn't work out, I'm still willing to go with paint and still looking for a suggestion on a good aluminum replication paint.

Thanks.....Dave

68camaroz28

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Re: Getting the correct bell housing finish ???
« Reply #29 on: April 09, 2020, 08:49:42 PM »
Dave, what Lloyd showed is one of the best ways and of course there is Jerry M who has what he call re-skinning (might be a vibratory deburr type that uses plastic stones), and there is a NCRS person who offers the same type of treatment. Or what can be done is glass beading but at 30-40PSI max. At that low pressure it does not etch the aluminum but the drawback is its size as it takes time. Small pieces I have used this method and it works well. For example look at my build thread for "radiator clutch fan" and that aluminum piece was done at 20PSI. JohnZ years ago mentioned that and it works but again a slow operation for a large piece like a bellhousing.
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