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Author Topic: rebuilding engine  (Read 12583 times)
dab67
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« on: March 19, 2007, 05:21:51 AM »

Just found out that I have a bearing going bad on my 350. Sad So I am going to have the engine rebuilt. Need opinions here, I want to put in a different cam, but keep as much as possible of everything else stock. It was suggested, by the Company rebuilding the engine that since I don't want to change to much of anything else on the engine that a 350/350hp cam would probably be the best way to go. Rebuild the heads with new springs , seals to handle the unleaded fuel etc. etc.  Any ideas or suggestion? Want to keep it a cruiser and not a bruiser!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 350 4 barrel, headers. Would it be a good idea to change the carb or just rebuilt that also? Q-Jet on it now. I was going to rebuild next year but after running some tests and checking oil pressures cold and hot have to do it a year early.

dab67
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sam
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« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2007, 07:17:41 AM »

I like the 350/350 cam. You can buy a spec cam from a cam manufacturer Crane, Comp, etc. The Q-jet in my opinion is a good choice. You can re-jet them and do little performance enhancements to them. They hardly ever leak from sitting. Have Jerry M. set up the original distributor for you also. Sounds real dependable to me and will run good. Take care of the little things and the bigger things take care of themselves.
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dab67
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« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2007, 07:51:52 AM »

Sam:
Thanks for the input, wasn't sure what to do regarding the carb, I want to keep as much as possible original to what I bought, not to say the engine is numbers matching to the car. The company doing the work also recommended doing something to the Distributor so I will let them handle that. Since I have to drop the tranny (powwerglide) with the engine, I am going to have all the seals changed. I have a leak when the car sets after driving. They think is may be the seal on the dipstick or the seal(s) around the linkage that are causing this.But will have all of them replaced.

Dave
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sam
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« Reply #3 on: March 19, 2007, 08:04:13 AM »

Dave, I would just go through everything at this point. While everything is out of the car do it once. I think you are on the right track. Do as much as your wallet allows. Grin Just make sure your engine guy can rebuild your carb and distributor correctly. Its the little things.
« Last Edit: March 19, 2007, 08:05:44 AM by sam » Logged
dab67
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« Reply #4 on: March 19, 2007, 08:31:22 AM »

Sam:

The company is well known in the Southeastern part of Wisconsin for building High performance engines and comes highly recommended by quite a few of the people I had talked with. They gave me an option of replacing or rebuilding the carb. Based on the pocket book, I'll wait and see.

I'll keep you posted on the route I take.

Thanks again!!

Dave
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sam
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« Reply #5 on: March 19, 2007, 08:39:52 AM »

Sounds like a plan Dave.  Sam Grin
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lakeholme
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« Reply #6 on: March 19, 2007, 09:04:50 AM »

Dave,

Hate to hear about the bearing.  That's the "excuse" for getting other things done.  (Had to do that on another car.  Let me change what I wanted to change and bring back to original what I wanted original.) Keep us posted on your work.

Phillip
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Phillip
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dab67
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« Reply #7 on: March 19, 2007, 11:01:42 AM »

Phillip:

I wish it was an "excuse: Ha! Unfortunately it isn't. I was planning on doing it next year just to do it and replace at that time what needed to be replaced. But with this happening now, going to do it all. The winter projects of changing the dash harness, cleaning up the engine bay, changing the brakes and some general items were all accomplished. The only real major project was going to be the tranny and that will also be taken care of at this time. Which should leave nothing left to do next year!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
HOPEFULLY!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm just glad this problem reared it's ugly head now and not during the summer months.

Dave
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dab67
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« Reply #8 on: March 19, 2007, 11:09:02 AM »

Phillip:

What is your opinion on a different cam? As I stated, want to keep it a cruiser. Want to keep it as original as possilbe but give it a little more pep!~!!! Cool

Dave
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lakeholme
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« Reply #9 on: March 19, 2007, 02:08:24 PM »

Dave,

I agree with Sam (which is the reason I didn't add anything above).  Knowing what you've said about your car (cruiser, et. al.), the 350/350 would be a good choice. One of these days, I'll replace my motor (which is not matching, and I know the original was lost in a scrape pile in Florida a long time ago).  But I'm waiting myself, because the 327/4 barrell I have is a great cruising setup for a powerglide car.

I also noticed on another one of your posts that you are starting to get answers to the issue of transmission and speedometer irregularities.  Let me (us) know how that all plays out.

Phillip
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Phillip
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AACA Southeastern Division Spring Meet Chair
"Charlotte AutoFair, presented by the Hornets Nest Region, AACA, is the largest and greatest Collector Vehicle Event in the Southeast USA."
dab67
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« Reply #10 on: March 19, 2007, 04:29:33 PM »

Phillip:

Definetly will keep you posted regarding the gearing. Hopefully while the engine is being rebuilt the company will be able to answer the reason behind the speedometer reading against  actual speed. I can't believe the gearing from 3:08 to 2:73 would make this change. Especially since both ratios use the same speedo gear in the tranny. It has to be something else, and hopefully when they pull the engine and tranny they see something that doesn't belong or is different on the powerglide or engine that would cause this difference.

Dave
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dab67
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« Reply #11 on: March 28, 2007, 06:22:08 AM »

Update; Got the engine out and finally got some numbers off the block. Casting number 3970010, casting date, this is how it reads not sure what it means 2x208, 20th day of 68 or 78? Now I know the 0010 was used in 69 on the Camaro for 302,327 and 350. And I also know that it was used from 69-79 as a 350 through out GM car and truck lines. But was it ever used in 68 as a 327? I have looked at 3 sites, Mortec, nastyz28 and cehighperformace and they all list it available at different times. Cehighperformance even lists it as early as 67 as a 350 used in trucks. So any clue what my engine may have come out of originally?

dab67
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JohnZ
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« Reply #12 on: March 28, 2007, 10:17:17 AM »

I've never seen a casting date format like that - is it about six inches toward the passenger side from the distributor on the rear flange of the block? It should be like the photo below, with a letter for the month, one or two number digits for the day, and one (Flint) or two (Tonawanda) digits for the year. The 010 block wasn't produced until April, 1969, so it wouldn't have been used for a '68.

What's stamped on the front pad? That will tell what it came out of.
« Last Edit: March 28, 2007, 10:18:59 AM by JohnZ » Logged

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dab67
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« Reply #13 on: March 28, 2007, 10:29:33 AM »

John:

The number I recorded was in that general area. When I get back to the shop where it is being rebuilt if I can get another look at it I will. I wonder if is is actually  2K208,,, would lhat be more like November 20 68 or 78? I have to be interpreting the other sites wrong. cehighperformance (trucks) list 5 different casting numbers used during the period of 67-79, which I figured out that is what was used during the whole period and not just a specific year. But Nastyz28 list it all alone for a 68 327.Got to be an error on their part. I thought i was only available beginning in 69 but had to ask!!!!!!
The front pad has V06022TDB, which I believe is a 350 used in a truck.
Thanks again John!

Dave

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1968RSZ28
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« Reply #14 on: March 28, 2007, 01:02:04 PM »

Dave -

I just Googled TDB and was directed to nastyz28.com.  There they list engine suffix code TDB as a 1972 307 cid small block V8 for the C-10 & C-20 trucks.  The engine assembly date on the front pad of 06022 would then make sense: June 2, 1972.  They also list code TDB as being used in 1980 (no engine size listed) on the C-10 & 1500 trucks, but then your engine assembly date doesn't fit.  Once you double check the casting date on the block we will know more.

Paul
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