Author Topic: Muncie Shifter Assembly (Read 13689 times)

cook_dw · « **on:** January 26, 2016, 02:25:16 PM »

I put this in the Originality section due to this piece being preserved. Purpose was to remove all rust and inspect and reassemble. I found a new product on eBay called RUSTAWAY which is considerably cheaper than Evaporust and seems to work just as good. Also using Cosmoline Rust Veto for the protection of bare metal parts.

Here are the before on the Muncie shifter.

cook_dw · « **Reply #1 on:** January 26, 2016, 02:26:54 PM »

And the after. Polished the chrome handle and ball. I had just sprayed all the bare metal with Rust Veto so ignore the shine on the first pic. Once it dried you dont see it (see other pics). Also used White Lithium grease on the reassembly.

69Z28-RS · « **Reply #2 on:** January 26, 2016, 04:32:05 PM »

Quote from: cook_dw on January 26, 2016, 02:25:16 PM

I put this in the Originality section due to this piece being preserved. Purpose was to remove all rust and inspect and reassemble. I found a new product on eBay called RUSTAWAY which is considerably cheaper than Evaporust and seems to work just as good. Also using Cosmoline Rust Veto for the protection of bare metal parts.

OK Darrell.. We need more information (we all like to save $$)... I did several searches on ebay for RUSTAWAY, Rust-Away, and Rust Away, and only found pints of Rust Away ranging in price (shipped) from $17.42, $18.25, and $26.xx. From Harbor Freight I buy GALLONS of Evapo-Rust for slightly over $20 (using the 20% off coupons that I get regularly.

your Rust Away doesn't sound less expensive to me..

But.. Hey! Your shifter looks good after your rework..

cook_dw · « **Reply #3 on:** January 26, 2016, 04:54:29 PM »

Sorry I forgot a space.. RUSTA WAY

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231561240397?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

69Z28-RS · « **Reply #4 on:** January 26, 2016, 05:04:45 PM »

Quote from: cook_dw on January 26, 2016, 04:54:29 PM

Sorry I forgot a space.. RUSTA WAY

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231561240397?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

That helps!

and it sounds good... Does it have any odor?? anything you observed not consistent with their advertising??

cook_dw · « **Reply #5 on:** January 26, 2016, 05:16:47 PM »

Nope everything seems good.. I did notice a hint of acid smell after I soaked the battery tray from the green car.. lol But that had nothing to do with the product.. Again Ive only used it a handful of times and to this point everything is good.. I plan on doing the driveshaft soon once I remove the u-joints.

bcmiller · « **Reply #6 on:** January 26, 2016, 09:58:45 PM »

Nice work Darrell. You will have a PM soon.

cook_dw · « **Reply #7 on:** January 26, 2016, 10:51:53 PM »

Shifter rod stampings.

cook_dw · « **Reply #8 on:** January 27, 2016, 01:55:49 AM »

Better shots of the stampings on the rods and a few more shots.

JoeC · « **Reply #9 on:** February 01, 2016, 01:07:14 AM »

shifter looks good but looks like it is missing the gate spring and retainer

cook_dw · « **Reply #10 on:** February 01, 2016, 02:12:45 AM »

Yep.. I would guess after trying to speedshift at 65-7K the spring and hat was probably left on the road somewhere in northern Ohio back in '68-69..

cook_dw · « **Reply #11 on:** February 02, 2016, 10:58:05 PM »

The rod and bracket are still on the transmission.

Mike S · « **Reply #12 on:** February 02, 2016, 11:23:08 PM »

Hi Darrell,

Does the rod and bracket look painted or phosphated?

Thanks,
Mike

cook_dw · « **Reply #13 on:** February 03, 2016, 12:46:14 AM »

The rod is rusted so I do not know what it is at this point.. Its hard say and its hard to get a pic of them since they are installed.. My gut says phosphate if anything at this point.. Ill slide under there again tonight or tomorrow and see if I can make anything out.

Edit:
I guess I was looking at the shifter rods when I said it was rusted.. I would say phosphate would be the correct finish..

Bracket

Rod

JoeC · « **Reply #14 on:** February 03, 2016, 07:07:49 AM »

the trans bracket is silver cadmium and the rod is black phosphate on the originals I have

vtfb68 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 03, 2016, 03:55:37 PM »

Trans bracket? What year did a Muncie shifter bolt to the transmission? Are we talking about the cross member bracket?
VT

JoeC · « **Reply #16 on:** February 03, 2016, 06:06:58 PM »

there is a stabilizer bar that goes from the shifter main bolt to a small bracket that bolts to a rear trans case bolt

here is a repop on ebay but the funny thing is the picture is for a Saginaw bracket but the ad says Muncie
the Muncie bracket and Saginaw bracket look similar but the edges are not formed the same
In the side view, Muncie has a U shape and the Saginaw has a Z shape

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camaro-4-Speed-Shifter-Front-Strut-Rod-Transmission-Mounting-Bracket-Muncie/172060014942?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140602152332%26meid%3Dbf7ec9d29b4a46aca15a8235b85d9975%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D181955279524

Mike S · « **Reply #17 on:** February 03, 2016, 07:45:07 PM »

I found an old '67 stabilizer in the garage overhead storage still with the end plates and rubber attached (I can't believe how much shi.....I mean, stuff I horde over the years). I was finally able to get the end nut and rubber off. This is what I found as plating goes:

Rubber bushing end caps (2) - bright zinc
End nut - bright zinc
Area of bracket surface covered by rubber - dark phosphate, which would mean the bracket itself was phosphate plated
Stabilizer bar - from what little plating remains it looks like dark phosphate.

I don't know if it would be aged gray phosphate or black phosphate.

Mike

JoeC · « **Reply #18 on:** February 04, 2016, 04:14:58 PM »

been a shifter hoarder myself

the originals I have seen were sliver cad on the trans bracket
The silver cad can look pretty dark either from age or was dark when new

I have a set of 69 rods that are original and are dark silver/gray

cook_dw · « **Reply #19 on:** February 04, 2016, 04:53:05 PM »

Do you have an extra spring and cup?

JoeC · « **Reply #20 on:** February 05, 2016, 12:15:08 PM »

I have some but I have more shifters then I have the parts to complete them as many are missing parts

1968 Z28 · « **Reply #21 on:** February 05, 2016, 07:01:25 PM »

Quote from: JoeC on February 05, 2016, 12:15:08 PM

I have some but I have more shifters then I have the parts to complete them as many are missing parts

Same situation that I have.....I have several assemblies but some are missing the spring and hat combination.

DDZ28 · « **Reply #22 on:** December 31, 2016, 02:15:17 PM »

To all

I am restoring a 68 L78 (9977 original miles) and the prior owner had replace the shifter with a Hurst Comp set up. I did receive with the car the original shifter and rods but they had welded broken rods together.

I understand big blocks and small blocks used different rods and I am in need af a set of big block rods.

The part #'s for these rods are
1st & 2nd 3930063
3rd & 4th 3930065
Reverse 3930067

Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated

bertfam · « **Reply #23 on:** January 01, 2017, 02:25:02 AM »

Quote

To all

I am restoring a 68 L78 (9977 original miles) and the prior owner had replace the shifter with a Hurst Comp set up. I did receive with the car the original shifter and rods but they had welded broken rods together.

I understand big blocks and small blocks used different rods and I am in need af a set of big block rods.

The part #'s for these rods are
1st & 2nd 3930063
3rd & 4th 3930065
Reverse 3930067

Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated

I removed your duplicate thread but have left this one, but normally we don't allow solicitations for parts on this site so the admin may end up removing this one as well. The TEAM CAMARO site has a section specifically for people selling and looking for parts, so you might want to try over there.

Ed

68camaroz28 · « **Reply #24 on:** January 01, 2017, 10:19:05 PM »

Quote from: JoeC on February 03, 2016, 07:07:49 AM

the trans bracket is silver cadmium and the rod is black phosphate on the originals I have

Back many years ago I found out we never received the shifter stabilizer bar set up with our 68Z, and when I started to look for one, boy those shifter stabilizer bar/brackets can be elusive as there are two brackets and three different bars. Joe assisted me a few years ago with some detailed items and expertise so a huge thank you Joe but wondering about the stabilizer bar as on ones I accumulated they had no traces of phosphate! Maybe the three I had were not the norm! For sure our shifter rods were all phosphate and the two stabilizer brackets were clear zinc (silver) or silver cad.
This is an example of bracket and rod off of a big block shifter that was a taken off and seemed totally original. Note how the finish on the rod and bracket have a similar look.

After some evaporust and cleaning-

Difference in the two brackets! Bracket on left for Muncie and on right for T10.

JoeC · « **Reply #25 on:** January 02, 2017, 04:27:09 PM »

I think you mean Muncie and Saginaw not Muncie and T10 ?

I looked at some I have for Camaro and Chevelle and the shifter stabilizer bars look to have been black but I would not be surprised if they were black gray or silver. I don't know if GM held the plating requirement so tight that they didn't allow a wide tolerance.

I know with 69 rods have seen the forward rods silver and the Rev rod black on same set of rods

68camaroz28 · « **Reply #26 on:** January 03, 2017, 12:16:00 AM »

Quote from: JoeC on January 02, 2017, 04:27:09 PM

I think you mean Muncie and Saginaw not Muncie and T10 ?

Yes I did Joe so thank you! When I first was looking for what we needed JerryG pointed out the bracket was for a Saginaw. And as you know the rod is about the same as used on Muncie but its longer. Looks to me that some of those rods are the same as what I had Joe finish wise.

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Author Topic: Muncie Shifter Assembly (Read 13689 times)