Author Topic: Operation: Get Dad's '69 RS Convertible Running (Read 8946 times)

tribri1 · « **on:** December 06, 2015, 09:22:21 PM »

My dad's 69 RS convertible has not been on the road since 2001. He has owned it since the early 70s, I am spending the week getting it road worthy while my parents are away on vacation. Here are some photos. I am focusing on mechanical and safety hoping that once it is drivable it will kick my dad in gear to get the body work done.

69Z28-RS · « **Reply #1 on:** December 06, 2015, 09:37:48 PM »

Nice looking car and great history..

Does your dad KNOW that you are working on it while he's gone?? OR .. are you going to surprise him?

tribri1 · « **Reply #2 on:** December 06, 2015, 10:54:27 PM »

Quote from: 69Z28-RS on December 06, 2015, 09:37:48 PM

Nice looking car and great history.. Does your dad KNOW that you are working on it while he's gone?? OR .. are you going to surprise him?

Nope he does not know I am working on it. I gave my mom the heads up and she got the insurance going and updated the registration. I don't live in the area so not only does he not know I am working on it, he has no idea I am in town. If all goes well, I will drive it down to the beach and get a photo with all of his surfer buddies in it then sent him the photo.

69Z28-RS · « **Reply #3 on:** December 06, 2015, 10:58:12 PM »

Well... Here's a heads up for you....

If you change any parts... be sure that you keep anything you take off (don't turn it in for a core charge)... or you might find a PO'ed dad when he gets home if you gave AutoZone his *original to the car* parts...

and when you are cleaning, do not remove any 'original patina'..

I'm just guessing that your dad MIGHT be as ... what? protective of his car? anal?? ... as some of us..

tribri1 · « **Reply #4 on:** December 07, 2015, 05:15:21 AM »

Nope not even getting rid of the Poncherello sunglasses I found in the center console.

vtfb68 · « **Reply #5 on:** December 07, 2015, 08:35:56 PM »

Early car, 210 hp 327? what area is the car in. is that a tach on the console?
Victor

tribri1 · « **Reply #6 on:** December 08, 2015, 12:28:56 AM »

Replaced all the fluids, hoses, battery and ignition system today. Was able to start it up with starter fluid and ran it for 10 minutes or so. It idles fine, but when I step on the gas it dies if I ease on the gas it is fine. Tomorrow I am pulling and rebuilding the carb. I am hoping that will clear up the issue. Then I am moving to the braking system...

Quote from: vtfb68 on December 07, 2015, 08:35:56 PM

Early car, 210 hp 327? what area is the car in. is that a tach on the console?
Victor

The car is in South Orange County, it is a Van Nuys build, so as far as I can tell it have never been out of So Cal. It spent most of its life as a self in the garage. The clock is mounted on the console.

Mike S · « **Reply #7 on:** December 08, 2015, 12:37:42 AM »

Quote from: tribri1 on December 08, 2015, 12:28:56 AM

.....................It idles fine, but when I step on the gas it dies if I ease on the gas it is fine. Tomorrow I am pulling and rebuilding the carb. I am hoping that will clear up the issue. Then I am moving to the braking system...
Victor

That sounds like a classic symptom of either the accelerator pump is bad or the fuel bowl check ball is stuck open which causes a temporary lean bog when the throttle is opened suddenly. A rebuild kit should fix that.

Mike

69houdini · « **Reply #8 on:** December 08, 2015, 05:26:11 PM »

tribri1, I'm not too far away from so OC , if you need some help let me know

tribri1 · « **Reply #9 on:** December 08, 2015, 11:37:43 PM »

Rebuilding the carb did the trick, It now starts great and purrs like a kitten. Tomorrow I am moving on to the breaks.

For a bonus I would love to get the mechanical light covers working again. Any hints or tricks to trouble shoot them or common problem ares to look at?

Quote from: 69houdini on December 08, 2015, 05:26:11 PM

tribri1, I'm not too far away from so OC , if you need some help let me know

Thanks if i get stuck I may PM you. I am only here until Friday then I head home to Oregon.

69Z28-RS · « **Reply #10 on:** December 08, 2015, 11:44:50 PM »

Quote from: tribri1 on December 08, 2015, 11:37:43 PM

Rebuilding the carb did the trick, It now starts great and purrs like a kitten. Tomorrow I am moving on to the breaks.

For a bonus I would love to get the mechanical light covers working again. Any hints or tricks to trouble shoot them or common problem ares to look at?

Quote from: 69houdini on December 08, 2015, 05:26:11 PM
tribri1, I'm not too far away from so OC , if you need some help let me know

Thanks if i get stuck I may PM you. I am only here until Friday then I head home to Oregon.

The things you could do quickly and simply:
1. Lubricate all the hinge/rotation points
2. Check the vacuum lines for disconnections, or rotten hoses.. (there's a bunch of vacuum lines that are used to operate the covers.. just follow them all out and check.
Here's a link that provides a diagram and some other information:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=218567

69pace · « **Reply #11 on:** December 09, 2015, 11:05:31 AM »

Nice project and surprise. If the doors are open, look at the service switch on the tank - drivers side wheel well. It should be in the normal position for the headlight switch to have effect. If the actuators are not rotted out and leaking vacuum the doors should close once in the normal position with the headlights off. If the headlight switch is gone bad and leaking often the doors open. If you disconnect the small line to the top of the service valve, the doors should open. If the actuators are frozen then they may be refreshed with some silicone spray through the front and back ports then spin the can to distribute the spray arounf the inner seal, then test for free movement by hand.

tribri1 · « **Reply #12 on:** December 10, 2015, 04:08:46 PM »

Ran out of time to post yesterday's progress, I replaced the wheel cylinders on the rear brakes and bled the system. I am not getting much fluid out of the rear brakes when bleeding, nor am I able to easily push the pedal to the ground when the bleeder screw is open. Is this normal?

BULLITT65 · « **Reply #13 on:** December 10, 2015, 04:16:20 PM »

I would recommend replacing the rubber lines going to the brake cylinders in the front (1 each side), and then replace the one rear brake hose that connects to distribution block on the rear end. These rubber lines break down over the years and will collapse when applying pressure to the system. I have also had the rubber expand so much as to pinch the inside of the line so much you couldn't fit a toothpick in there.
Replacing the rubber lines isn't hard to do, toughest part is having a good grip on the metal lines to break each one loose, without damaging the metal line or nut.
Good job, keep up the good work!

69Z28-RS · « **Reply #14 on:** December 10, 2015, 04:19:07 PM »

Rubber inside the hose may be deteriorating and preventing fluid flow to the rear cylinders. Replacing the hoses is a good thing to do. (Note: Keep any/all parts you remove for your father)..

.. including wheel cylinders, hoses, etc...

tribri1 · « **Reply #15 on:** December 10, 2015, 10:25:30 PM »

Thanks for the advice, I have been working on removing the rear brake hose all day. I can't get a line wrench on it and it is not budging with a crescent wrench.

I think I am about ready to throw in the towel and let the professionals have at it. Unfortunately I don't think I have the time to get it done before I head home, so i may leave it up to dad to get it towed to the brake shop, big bummer for me.

BULLITT65 · « **Reply #16 on:** December 10, 2015, 11:31:09 PM »

I am not that close to you but 69 Houdini is pretty close. It may take some heat or some flat blade vise grips or both. Breaking each nut loose is what it takes to get over the hump. From there it is just putting int he hose and bleeding the system (again). Don't give up, get the right tool for leverage, makes a world of difference.

tribri1 · « **Reply #17 on:** December 11, 2015, 02:14:58 AM »

Thanks for the encouragement, I forgot how persuasive a torch can be, I took one more shot this afternoon and was able to get the rear brake hose out. Got the new one in this evening and going to bleed the brakes in the morning, fingers crossed.

BULLITT65 · « **Reply #18 on:** December 11, 2015, 02:21:35 AM »

Right on. Make sure you do the front ones of you haven't already...

BillOhio · « **Reply #19 on:** December 11, 2015, 02:40:08 AM »

Great thing your doing. Good luck. I had the same issue with my real brake hose

tribri1 · « **Reply #20 on:** December 11, 2015, 10:26:35 PM »

Work is done, changing out the rear brake hose did increase the flow to the rear brakes which is great, but unfortunately the brakes are still not working correctly and I am out of time to mess with it. My mom and I came to the decision to hold off and she will get it to a shop when they get back in town. On the bright side the initial problem with the carburetor is fixed. In adition i did 10 years worth of maintenance and changed out most of the rubber. The engine runs nicely, I just wish I got the brakes fixed in time so I could do a test drive. Such is life... Thank you for all the encouragement and advice. When it is road worthy I will post again.

Some other fun facts, I found DMV registrations as far back at 1978. That may be when I dad bought it. The original owners manual with its protective covering was in the glove box and the second edition Chilton repair manual was in the trunk. I also found a one cent repair to get the courtesy lights to turn off.

69pace · « **Reply #21 on:** December 11, 2015, 11:12:12 PM »

LOL I have that same Classic Camaro catalog. Back in the the day they were the only nationwide restorer supply catalog I could find. I look forward to seeing your update. You should start a build thread over at Team Camaro http://camaros.net and then enter her in the ride of the month contest when your Dad gets his surprise

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Author Topic: Operation: Get Dad's '69 RS Convertible Running (Read 8946 times)