Author Topic: Classic Car Motor Oil  (Read 16714 times)

L78 steve

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Classic Car Motor Oil
« on: January 27, 2015, 06:22:34 PM »
Is anyone using this? Thoughts?   https://classiccarmotoroil.com/index.html
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Petes L48

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Re: Classic Car Motor Oil
« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2015, 07:06:14 PM »
My first impression is that it's probably just conventional oil with a ZDDP type additive and maybe something in addition, selling for the price of synthetic oil.  You could probably get the same results from stuff at your local parts store, and probably less $. 

cook_dw

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Re: Classic Car Motor Oil
« Reply #2 on: January 27, 2015, 07:13:24 PM »
I use Brad Penn Oil.  If racers swear by it then you know its good.   ;)


http://www.penngrade1.com/
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click

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Re: Classic Car Motor Oil
« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2015, 07:39:30 PM »
Or 2 grades of Z-Rod by AMSOIL http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/z-rod-10w-30-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ZRTQT-EA  10w-30 or 20w-50 are great oils too.
Click is Jim , central Minn.  Moderator at Team Camaro www.camaros.net

L78 steve

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Re: Classic Car Motor Oil
« Reply #4 on: January 27, 2015, 07:44:47 PM »
I like Amsoil synthetics but they leak like hell from the rear main. The only oil I can find with the Zinc and Phosphorus is the Valvoline Racing and that is short term oil only.
« Last Edit: January 27, 2015, 08:11:29 PM by L78 steve »
69 Z/28 Dover White. SOLD
67 SS/RS Mt. Green 1W,2LGSR,3SL,4K,5BY,07C. SOLD
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Kelley W King

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Re: Classic Car Motor Oil
« Reply #5 on: January 27, 2015, 08:27:23 PM »
I thought Shell Rotella had what we need.
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L78 steve

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Re: Classic Car Motor Oil
« Reply #6 on: January 27, 2015, 09:31:00 PM »
The ZDDP has been reduced in Rotella also. The zinc and phosphorus shortens the life of catalytic converters so the EPA is doing its job.
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ko-lek-tor

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Re: Classic Car Motor Oil
« Reply #7 on: January 28, 2015, 02:02:30 AM »
I use Brad Penn Oil.  If racers swear by it then you know its good.   ;)


http://www.penngrade1.com/


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L78 steve

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Re: Classic Car Motor Oil
« Reply #8 on: January 28, 2015, 01:09:26 PM »
The Penn looks good.
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jdv69z

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Re: Classic Car Motor Oil
« Reply #9 on: January 28, 2015, 03:12:59 PM »
Is there an additive you can add yourself, or does it have to be already in the oil you are using?
Jimmy V.

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Re: Classic Car Motor Oil
« Reply #10 on: January 28, 2015, 04:07:23 PM »
Companies do sell zddp additives, although I haven't used them myself.  Eastwood and even a company called 'zddplus'..

http://zddplus.com/
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Mike S

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Re: Classic Car Motor Oil
« Reply #11 on: January 28, 2015, 04:19:40 PM »
Companies do sell zddp additives, although I haven't used them myself.  Eastwood and even a company called 'zddplus'..

http://zddplus.com/

Some of my friends use zddplus and no complaints about cam wear so far.
These can be bought in bulk on eBay at some very good deals.

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BULLITT65

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Re: Classic Car Motor Oil
« Reply #12 on: January 30, 2015, 01:08:26 AM »
Is anyone using this? Thoughts?   https://classiccarmotoroil.com/index.html


I picked some up a few months ago when I was Indianapolis. It seemed like the most protection for the money, and more oriented toward a car that may sit during the winter months.
 I also saw where someone said Brad Penn was good but required oil changes every 1000 miles because it did not contain as many additives to break down the carbon build up. Same thing for Valvoline VR-1 "Valvoline Racing oil is not designed for long term use, it is for short intense use and racing purposes."

A Zddp additive  added to regular oil is better than no additive at all, (more of a stop gap), but you are better off purchasing oil with it built in. You can have to much Zddp and create a problem by decreasing the effectiveness of the zddp as well.

Shell Rotella/ Chevron Delo -Diesel oils have plenty of ZDDP, but unfortunately even higher levels of detergents than conventional oil. So initially this seemed like a fix, but after more research was found to harm the flat tappet cam motors as well.

Most motor oil manufactured today only has 800 ppm of zddp. (not enough)

bottom line: use Brad Penn (1500 ppm), Valvoline Vr-1, ,Classic car motor oil (1600 ppm) , or a motor oil with at least 1200 ppm of zddp, and you will be fine.
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janobyte

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Re: Classic Car Motor Oil
« Reply #13 on: January 30, 2015, 02:35:26 PM »
 (personally I run Lucas Plus 20W50 , in the race engine. Very pleased with the performance per post season engine tear down) Also , Lucas, Amsoil , and I'm sure others sell kits where you can have a sample of your oil examined for wear indication. #1 owner of the Z happens to be an Amsoil rep.


Another online post:



I recently contacted the technical department of Lucas oil and inquired about the ZDDP content of the Lucas motor oils.

Here is what I was told
Standard 30W = 1265 parts per million
Standard 20W50 = 1265 parts per million
Standard 10W30 = 900 parts per million (has the seal oil industry seal and cannot exceed 900)
Racing synthetic 10W30 = 3031 parts per million
Racing synthetic 10W40 = 3031 parts per million
Racing synthetic 20W50 = 3031 parts per million

Here is a link to this oil http://www.lucasoiloffroad.com/lucas...SAE_10W-30.pdf

I have been using 10W30 Kohler Universal Engine oil in my Jeep to protect the Flat Tappet cam as the Kohler oil has around 3200 parts per million ZDDP but I think I will switch to the Lucas Synthetic Racing Oil at my next change now that I know that it has so much ZDDP in it and due to the availability of the Lucas products. The person I spoke with at Lucas assured me that the Lucas Racing Oil would hold up for my normal oil change interval of about 5000 to 6000 miles. Actually even the standard Lucas oil at 1265 parts per million would be more than enough to protect a Jeep 4.0 flat tappet cam.
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JohnZ

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Re: Classic Car Motor Oil
« Reply #14 on: February 01, 2015, 05:21:01 PM »
The ZDDP has been reduced in Rotella also. The zinc and phosphorus shortens the life of catalytic converters so the EPA is doing its job.

No, it hasn't. The CJ-4 API service rating on Rotella (and every other CJ-4-rated brand) will routinely test at 1100-1200 ppm of zinc/phos, which is more than adequate protection for any OEM valvetrain; if you have an aftermarket valvetrain with Gonzo valve springs and radical lobe flank accelerations, all bets are off and you'll need more specialized lubricants with more EP (Extreme Pressure) additives.

CJ-4 oils are not intended for use with catalytic converters - that's why "SM" (the current EPA-approved passenger car and light truck oil classification for spark-ignition engines) is listed SECOND on the API label logo.
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