Round 2: Going to see a '68 Z/28 - Need some help w/pics

[barsteel]

Hello!

A few weeks ago, I posted about a '68 SS Camaro that I was looking at, and asked for some opinions as to wether the car was true SS or not.  Net, I found out that I'll never know with 100% certainty without the long-gone original engine and transmission.

While I haven't given up on that car, another one presented itself, and I'm going to see it on Monday.  It's a '68 Z28.

In this case, the car has the original engine, transmission, and rear end, according to the owner, and he sent me pics of the engine # and VIN to prove it.  The engine is an MO coded 302, and the vin stamped on the block matches the car's vin.

I have a lot more information on the car, along with pictures, but, as was the case before, the pics are too big for me to post.

Before I take this thread any further, can anyone resize the pics for me?

Thanks in advance...

Chris
Monroe, CT

[maroman]

look at the glove box tire pressure sticker. it should be for 15 inch tires.

[BULLITT65]

I am guessing you have a PC. With the picture up,  I think you can go into tools, and resize the image that way. keep sizing it down until t shows as being less than 200KB. Any computer geek stuff I don't know how to do, I just do a quick search on google, and 99.9% of the time somebody has step by step instructions on how to do it, or there i a you tube video showing how. Hope this helps

[69Z28-RS]

Light Image Resizer is still the best means of resizing a jpg file with minimal loss of image quality... (at least that I've seen)... it's excellent.

[ZLP955]

Or just create a photobucket account, upload your pictures to your album and then link to the image HTML code in your post like this:

[Oaklyss]

look at the glove box tire pressure sticker. it should be for 15 inch tires.

That sticker is no longer proof of Z/28. A documented 68 SS was found with the 15" tire option. But it is a good place to start.

[6667ss138]

Here are the pictures for Chris. He emailed them to me.

[6667ss138]

More

[6667ss138]

More pics

[6667ss138]

Last of his pics. Good luck Chris.

[BULLITT65]

First off I like the 68 Z just based it possibly having the original drive train. It looks like both rear quarters have had some work done to them. I would look inside the trunk and wheel wells to see how crusty they might be, or take a magnet to see how filler has been used.

At first glance, the car looks to be a great original driver, how many miles are on it? Also how long has the seller owned it? (what has he done to it during ownership?)

Lastly I would make sure the VIN is clear with Virgina's licensing department, and verify what kind of paperwork you will be required to have in your own state to transfer ownership, and get a clear title issued if you decided to purchase the car.

Price???

[barsteel]

Len -

THANK YOU for resizing and posting the pics for me.  I did a Google search on how to resize, and now know how to do it.

Anyway, what I'm looking for is this:

Based on what you see, is this a real Z/28?
Asking price is $32K.  High?  Low?  Just right?
Seller said that mileage is 75K.
When I go to see it, what specifically should I look for in terms of confirming the car's identity?

Here's what I know about the car, based on what the seller told me.  I have not yet seen the car:

Numbers matching engine, transmission, and rear end - engine numbers pictured, number sequence matches the vin on the paperwork.  Have no pics of the rear or tranny #s
Cowl tag indicates a first week of April production - Pictured
Engine code is correct, MO, and March 29 production date jives with the car's production date - pictured
Owner has the POP, have not seen it.
Carb is coded 4053DZ, have not seen it
Wheels are 15", and coded DE - pictured.  Based on the information here, the wheel code is correct for the car
Glove box sticker has the correct code for the car, code AY, E70x15-4 ply tires, pictured
Power brakes w/front discs.  Seller said he replaced the calipers, but has the old ones in a box, they come with the car
Seller has owned the car for 25+ years, and has registrations going back to 1972.  One of the registrations pictured has "Z28" written on the body style.  I know it's supposed to list "2dr coupe" or something similar, but he said it was filled in with Z28 in 1972
According to the seller, the floors, trunk, and subframe ends are solid and rust free
The quarters, as can be seen, have been worked on, and very likely have some bondo in them.
Car has factory gauges and tach.
I've already been told that 1) the valve covers are wrong, 2) the oil filler cap is wrong 3) smog control is missing (big surprise), and the MC has been replaced

I plan on crawling under the car and checking the #s on the tranny and rear end.

Anything else I should look for?

Thanks once again...

Chris

[69Z28-RS]

Good suggestions from Bullitt, but if he has the Protecto plate and it's an original one, and the data matches the car info, then a lot of that is cleared up.   As you stated, drivetrain wise it appears to be a 'real car'.. but make sure you verify that.   Making sure it has a clean title thru the state is a great idea as Bullitt suggests. 

Rather than 'crawling under the car', I'd suggest (assuming the car is driveable) that you ask the owner to either drive the car to a garage or place with a lift and get the car up so you can better inspect all the insides of the fenders, quarters, floor, etc.. as well as the chassis parts, and the trans and rear end codes.   Make sure you take some items with you to help clean off the necessary areas if need be, and take a strong light so you can illuminate sufficiently. 

I like the car (with exception of the rust possibilities...).   I had one just like it back in the early '70's which I traded for my '69... 

[bcmiller]

Paint code is L - Teal Blue, but car looks like it is Lemans Blue now?

Things are looking OK so far.  Price seems high based on the rust issues I see, and the additional rust issues I expect you will find. 

See if you can get a picture of the POP.

Do you know the rear axle code?

[Charley]

Price and car look good to me so far. I would move quick before someone else does.

[1968RSZ28]

Engine pad looks OK! 

Wheels are 15", and coded DE

Wheels should be stamped DF for a '68 Z/28.  The center caps are incorrect for '68, the ones pictured are for '67.

Car should have rear bumper guards (included with Z28 option).

Tachometer is correct, 6K redline.

Check the alternator, should be stamped 1100814 (a pricey item to find).  It might have been replaced as the one in the photo doesn't appear to have a deep groove pulley.

Good luck!

Paul

[6667ss138]

Price and car look good to me so far. I would move quick before someone else does.

I agree with Charley

[BULLITT65]

So is the 68 Z posted on the net, or how much exposure does it have, where you feel there may be other guys that could buy it?

[barsteel]

Update:  I misunderstood his message to me.  He does NOT have the POP, but he did say that the car has the original distributor, which from what I understand should be 1111467, and the alternator arm # should end in 814, so those are 2 additional things I can check.

The car does have a 12 bolt posi rear.  He said that it originally had 4.56 gears, but it was switched to 3.73 gears years ago.

I'm going to post a pic of the carb #s as soon as he gets it to me.

Tire rim code MAY be DF, it's kinda hard to tell.

I'm in CT, and CT is a non-title state for cars over 10 years old.  All I have to do is have a VIN check to prove that the claimed VIN matches with the paperwork I'm submitting, and I'm good to go.

I'll provide any updates as I get them.

Chris

[bcmiller]

Well I still say the price at $32K is too high.  Take a look at the rust issues.  You will have at least another $20K in it if my suspicions are true.

It is a car to buy, if you can get it for the right price.  No doubt.

[VINCE Z28]

Chris be mindful of rust repair cost... can you do all the repair work yourself, if not what is a shop going to charge? also when you see some rot, there's usually more unseen.

[barsteel]

bcmiller - Understood.  I WILL be bringing a magnet with me when I go to check it out.  The rust is a bargaining point for sure, especially in or near the rockers.

Never mentioned this since my first post, but I DID have a '69 RS when I was 17, 327/PG.  Original CT car with TONS of bondo on it, although it looked good when I bought it.  The rockers had some minor bubbling on them, but 2 years later they had grown into holes.  The rockers turned out to be full of leaves and dirt, about a bucketful when I flushed them out, so yeah, I know that rockers can be in issue.  Sold the car a year later and lost a ton of money on it.

Chris

[barsteel]

As far as rust repair goes, I had a '59 Apache a few years ago.  Cab corners where shot.  Pulled the bed, and carefully cut out the rust.  Ended up mig welding new inner and outer cab corners on both sides.  Used butt-weld panel clamps, drilled out the spot welds along the door post, was super careful about fitment, took my time with the mig, hitting a spot at a time, ground slowly and carefully, and once I was done, you couldn't tell that they were ever replaced, so I'm pretty confident that I can do a set of rockers and a rear quarter patch panel if need be.

Chris

[ZLP955]

The obvious signs of rust give you some negotiating room, but if the drivetrain and Z-specific parts (as mentioned above) all check out, I'd snap that car up. At least the current owner hasn't attempted to disguise the rust, far better than considering a car with shiny fresh paint covering who knows what?

[ds1]

This car is on the internet.  I looked at it on Racingjunk.   In my neck of the woods it is a 22k car.    You look at the quarter rust and there is hidden rot in there.    Realistically needs a good resto.    Numbers matching and POP are a great start.

[dannystarr]

This car was for sale at TC for a while by a member for 35K. I was looking at it for about a year... at the same time my butternut yellow popped up with all that I wanted in documentation. The blue one was priced 35K. And as far as I know it has no POP. Just his finger pointing to a baby z/28 written in a box on a sheet. I remember him saying it is all matching. But I steered away... without a build sheet, window sticker, protection plan booklet, and POP it's just too hard to determine on a '68. Car was then on eBay and just ended a few days ago and reached 32K. I would for sure have it verified by a professional top to bottom... Danny

[BULLITT65]

Good input Danny, very valuable.

[6667ss138]

No POP definitely hurts it

[69Z28-RS]

No POP definitely hurts it

Since 95% do not have POPs at this late date, I'd phrase that differently...    "If it HAD the POP, it would have definitely helped it!"..

[dannystarr]

I can honestly say that I wanted this car more than mine... AT THE TIME...      NOW that I have the BY car I love it and all it is    The girlfriend almost bought the blue one, but heard me talk shop about documentation. Or should I say "lack of".. Anyway, good luck, I hope it checks out and you can scoop it up. Danny

[6667ss138]

No POP definitely hurts it

Since 95% do not have POPs at this late date, I'd phrase that differently...    "If it HAD the POP, it would have definitely helped it!"..

Gary, you are right but in this instance he started out with the understanding that the POP was apart of the deal and we were all giving him advice based on that info. But once the misunderstanding came out and there was not a POP for this car then my opinion changed concerning its value.

[69Z28-RS]

I understand what you are saying.. and the 'statement of having the POP' certainly addressed most of the 'originality' issues..   but that said, if I viewed the car and inspected it.. and didn't find anything suspicious (ie. I believed it to be an original Z28 with all it's major factory parts), I would not let the lack of the documentation prevent my purchasing it...

[BillOhio]

My opinion, for what it's worth lol, over 30 with those quarters is too much. What I have seen with that damage, if original fenders are still on it, they would be suspect at the bottom with the brace. Car really needs a good looking over

[barsteel]

All -

Thanks for your input.

From the comments, it seems to me that if the numbers on the engine number (along with casting #), transmission, rear, distributor, and alternator setup check out, that would identify it as a Z/28...unless someone decked a proper block, restamped it, and restamped a transmission and rear end, and added all of the Z-28 specific parts.  Correct?

Yes, I wish it had the POP.

My hope was that I could beat him down somewhat on price based on the rust, but if he already had it bid up to $32K on Ebay, he may not go for it.

If the numbers check out, guess I'll have to decide how badly I want the car and take it from there.

If not, I wasted the cost of a commuter flight to NC and a day's worth of my time.

And so it goes....

Chris

[ggtsvnv]

Remember that it might have been bid to 32k on ebay but he will have fees to pay on ebay. So you could get it for somewhat less than 32k. Also remember a lot of fake bidding goes on, someone might b I'd to 32k and never show up with money. If you there with money ready to go I would think you would get it for less. I like the car and it reminds me of mine which I'm collecting parts for and Is getting ready for the. Rotisserie

[maroman]

If it is a real teal LL car it would be a rare one. The color as said before looks like Lemans blue.  I had a LL Z-28.

[janobyte]

Click on my user info, recent posts #7. I have a few of my date codes posted.

My Z is an O4D,   302: 0423

Your car of interest: 04A    302: 0329

All the previous posts on this thread are correct so I'm not quoting.

Bottom line is your plans for it, along with pocket depth. IMO, based on pics  (what is just on the surface), priced high, plus it's been on the market for awhile. Buddies may be bidding it up. But, if numbers check,(big in the plus column) it is a 68 Z. Investment probably a poor choice of words, but car worth keeping if done properly, with a reasonable initial purchase price.

POP ? rather have the car then visa versa, it may pop up(no pun)

[ds1]

Be realistic with your end goal.   Do you want it restored?    You are looking at quarters, outer wheel wells and paint.    Easily 10 k if you can not do the work.     As pointed out earlier, what about the lower fenders.     You can see it has been repainted and the wrong color.   All rubber will need to be replaced as well as any interior work.    If this is a maintained driver you will find suspension and steering issues.    Look at the big picture on cost.      I personally think for the money you can do better.    If it is all numbers matching that is a huge plus.    But if you add his asking price with what it will cost to restore it you can go buy a nicely done car for that.     I paid far market for the one I bought and when done I will have 30 to 35 in it.

[z28z11]

About all I'd like to add is it's similar to my '68, which is a documented car, with external sheet metal work done but in the wrong color. A lot to do from here, but I did buy it for a lot less than the your find. NOM, but has an original MO dated correctly ready to go back in.

I agree with all of the responses ahead of me - everything looks and points to it being what the seller is advertising. The only thing left to consider is the distance between what your final negotiated price and the market value of the car. If you can complete the car under the market value, I'd say go for it. Prices hold pretty steady on first gens, regardless of the economy (outside of a few fliers now and then). I don't think $32K is unreasonable, but it would be even better for less - I'd buy it unless it turns out to be a real Flintstone mobile. 

[BULLITT65]

I agree with most everything else posted. I would add if you visit the site carsonline.com:  http://www.cars-on-line.com/camaro.html  (ignore the first listing on the site for an el camino)
they have a Camaro specific page and you can compare prices and condition pics vs pics. This is different than being in person, but should give you some perspective on what you can get for the same money. IMO I think 25K or less might be a good buy. If it is currently a driver, you could enjoy it right away in its current condition (which you mentioned previously you would like to do). If you ever decided to drop another 10-12k for metal work and paint, I think the car would increase in value having said repairs.

Do your homework on this car, and do a lot of comparing to other Camaros. There may be a similar car out there for sale with the POP. The more research you do the more informed you will be. At purchase time you will feel more confident, and post purchase you will have less buyers remorse this way. Talking to guys on the CRG is a great start.

[BULLITT65]

Here is an ad for a teal blue 68 Z:
http://www.carsonline-ads.com/colhits/DailyViewCounter?cmd=redirect&id=-81076&linkURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.corvettesandmusclecars.com%2F1968-Chevrolet-Camaro-Z-28-North-Canton-Ohio-44720%2F5240550

A bit pricey, but a good example of the color.

[barsteel]

To all -

Thanks again for the opinions.  Keep them coming.

As far as my plans, I'd like to drive it for a while, maybe a  year or two, enjoy it, then tear it down for a paint and bodywork. I have enough major projects at the moment to keep me busy for the next year or two .

I'm not buying the car as an investment (I'd buy one completely done if that was the case), but I don't want to lose my shirt on it, either.  Most of the cars I've ever had I've either broken even on or made a few thousand dollars on...and yes, I've lost money on a few, too.

I'm confident that I can do some, if not all, of the metal work, and the vast majority of the prep work, so I can probably get it where I want for less than $10K.  I've also successfully handled engine and manual transmission removal/rebuild, suspension and brake rebuilds, so that's not a worry for me.

I've attached a pic of the carb and stamped code.  Buyer got back to me about the distributor.  He said that the # is 1111467, which would make it the correct distributor for the engine.

Janobyte - sorry for being dense, but what are you saying regarding production dates vs engine dates?  04D is last week of April, and a 4/23 engine date would put engine assembly date a week previous, and that would be the same case for the car I'm looking at, engine assembly date on week prior to the car's production date.  Am I correct?

As far as a final price goes, I'll go down with a $1000 cash deposit, with payment in full to follow in 1 day via bank wire transfer, or cash upon pickup, whichever he prefers.  Depending on if/how much I want it, I'll start in the $20s and take it from there.  Hopefully we can meet at a price that works.

Thanks again...

Chris

[70L34]

Nice car. My '68 Z has the original drivetrain and no docs...I'm OK with it...they are great cars and a much better value than the '69s. I would say anything in the high $20s or less would be a fair deal.

[Charley]

Great color, great project.based on what you say you can do, I would get it bought if there are no huge surprises. It looks to me like a honest car with some rust issues. You have orig. drivetrain, fix or drive. Too many cars I have looked at over the years are just dolled up crap. This looks honest. Good luck

[janobyte]

"Janobyte - sorry for being dense, but what are you saying regarding production dates vs engine dates?  04D is last week of April, and a 4/23 engine date would put engine assembly date a week previous, and that would be the same case for the car I'm looking at, engine assembly date on week prior to the car's production date.  Am I correct? "

You are not dense, but are correct. Block ,heads ,trans , rear end date codes should be close but PRIOR to the car in question's 04A. It may sound obvious, but could be overlooked. And if you research some examples of legit cars on this site, you'll see just how close dates are. Also browse Ebay and take note of the (crazy) asking price on parts....battery hold down strap/bolt and valve stem caps may be 1/2 the asking price. LOL.

 ( how's it run by the way ?)
 

[z28z11]

I've attached a pic of the carb and stamped code.  Buyer got back to me about the distributor.  He said that the # is 1111467, which would make it the correct distributor for the engine.

Not trying to nitpick; carb center section is good, but the front bowl is not right (no bowl vent for the Z's, only L78's), plus the dashpot is later (vacuum tube is curved on originals). Probably assembled from parts.

Check the date on the 467 distributor - should be pretty close to the build if it's an original (finding one date coded correctly is not an easy task).

Point being: Everyone mentioned this before - don't take it for granted that correctly coded parts that are with the car guarantee originality. I know that's kind of redundant, but '68's are easy to pass off as originals to the unsuspecting and the enthusiastic would-be buyer. Keep your caution intact -

Regards.
Steve

[1968RSZ28]

Also, the power brake booster hose bracket is missing (see your recent carburetor picture).  This bracket was necessary on all first generation Z/28s.

Paul 

[barsteel]

Where is the date code on the distributor?

[BULLITT65]

right past the part number.  So "8 D 18" would be 8 =year 1968, D would be April, 18 would be day of the month.  This is just a random example, they did some of them in batches. Jan could probably post a pic of his original.

[VINCE Z28]

Here's a '69 L-78.

[68camaroz28]

Where is the date code on the distributor?

Be careful on the date code as there are a flotilla of re-stamp distributors. My build thread has a lot information concerning 68Z's.  Like Charlie, it seems to have a lot going for it if the floor boards, bottom of doors, etc. are solid as a rock.
Love those 68Z's!

[barsteel]

On my way back fron NC.   The car was an honest, unrestored car with matchi g engine
And tranny numbers.  Rear end code was for March 14 or 15, so that appeqrs to be original too.
Floors and rockers were solid except for the small area shown.  Rear quarters bave some bondo
Behind the wheels but nothing horrible.  Inners need some repair at the edges  but are not bad.
trunk is rock solid. Bottoms of fenders are fine.  Some surface rust on subframe, no rot  
cracking shown in rear quarters is paint.  Comfirmed presence of bondo w magnet.
  Interior is original with some wear.  Smells musty, very dusty.   Dash pad is shot.  Original shifter.  Driveable as is.  84k mi, appears to be original.
Got him to move a little on price but not as much as hoped.

Seriously considering pulling the trigger.   Goi g to sleep on.it

[BULLITT65]

Good job on seeing it first hand. I hope you guys aren't to far apart on price, and can agree on a number.

[dannystarr]

Chicks build is for sure your best reference right now. Also take a look at mine, as it is numbers matching from the air cleaner wing nut to the 5 matching wheels. It is an O5E build. Here is the link. ... Danny

    http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=12453.0


           

[barsteel]

Finally home.  Long day.  CT to NC back to CT.  A few additional comments about the car:

Overall appearance is decent, but not great.  Paint is faded and dull.
In addition to the correct production code and partial VIN, the engine also has the correct casting #, 3914678
Owner said that the car does have the correct DF wheels, although the spare is a 14" rim.
Jack is present, although I didn't check for originality
Radiator is not original - it is a 21" core, but it has outlets for cooling lines.  Not surprising given the age of the car.
Rear leafs have 4 leafs, not 5.  From what I understand, that is correct for a Z28(?).
Valve covers ARE original, according to the owner, they were just painted...why he painted chrome I can't say, but he did point to a spot where they were peeling, and yes, it did appear to have chrome under the paint.
Alternator does not appear to be original - # on it is 1100834
Brake pedal DOES have the correct "disc brake" medallion on it
The car DOES have bumper guards
Couldn't find a code on the MC - booster shows evidence of peeling paint for a brake fluid leak, so I'm certain it's been replaced
Rear end code is BW0314G (I THINK it was a 14) with an "E" underneath that - confirms that the rear end was built approx. 2 weeks before the car's production date, and that the car originally had a 4.56 rear end, which is what the owner said.  Now has 3.73s
I would tend to believe that the rear end is original...given that the rear was a 4.56, I'm sure that they used fewer of them, so it was probably built and the sat on a rack for a few weeks because of lower demand.
As far as I could tell (reading with a mirror), the distributor DOES have the correct code 1111467, although I couldn't see that date code
Driver's side seat has a small tear on the bottom cushion, pass side and rear seat are intact and in decent shape.  Carpet is decent, a bit faded, headliner is intact.
Dash is uncut, and has a (according to the owner) a non-original but correct GM am/fm radio
Door panels are presentable, rear panels appear to be a bit bowed, as if the back side was exposed to moisture
The front lower panel of the wheel wells, where the rocker drain plug is located, is solid on both sides.

Last question - from what I understand, the carb is supposed to be a mechanical secondary card, correct?  I recall seeing a vacuum diaphragm, which shouldn't be there...but then again, I didn't closely check out the carb.

Let's see how I feel about it tomorrow morning.

Chris

[1968RSZ28]

How solid (rust) is the car?

Paul

[6667ss138]

Nice detailed description Chris. Does sound like a special car. Yes on the four leaf springs on 68 Z's. Good luck whichever way you go.

[Charley]

Should be vacuum secondary.

[barsteel]

Paul -

Solid, but not perfect.  Like I mentioned, bondo behind the rear wheels, inner rear fender lips have some rot where they join the lip of the rear quarter, but only 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch, basically the edge.  Shock supports are rock solid, as is the trunk and floor.  No rust under the fenders that I could see, some light surface rust on the underside of the rear subframe, but again, no holes or even flaking.  Doors appeared to be solid along the bottoms, rockers passed the magnet test, didn't appear to have any bondo in them.

The spare tire direction sticker was peeled off, and I could see the original teal color.  Unique color...I like it.

Chris

[janobyte]

carb should be vacuum secondary. Big deal with the z's are engine-trans-rear end. BORN with. Sounds like you have quite a bit of original sheet metal that is repairable. Glass date codes--carpet ? Seat belts ?   If you are serious about this car, shoot me an email and I'll send you the dates on a Z that ran the line a few weeks after yours. Chick is a wonderful source also. As Danny, who just purchased one. Well...anyone here owning a 68 Z are partial to them. ( those 69 Hugger Orange  guys are a motely crew ,stay away...LOL !)

[6667ss138]

lol

[ggtsvnv]

Sounds like a pretty nice find. If it's the car you want I say go for it. If you have had you heart set on a different year or model (rs, big block ss, 67 or 69) than pass on it if he won't budge on price much, and wait for what you want. I personally love the 68 z's; you just don't see as many as 69. I guess what I'm saying is get the car you want, even if you spend a little more than what it might be worth, the fun factor and joy of having what you want is worth it.

[barsteel]

Janobyte -

Glass date codes--carpet ? Seat belts ?

When I was there, I didn't know enough to check the glass dates, but the owner told me that another person looked at the car and told him that the glass was original.  Thus far, he's been as honest as the day is long, so I'd lean toward believing him.

Carpet - original type loop pile, same deal with the glass, didn't know how to check if it's original.  It's all there and in good shape, a bit faded in places.

Seat belts - present and accounted for, don't know if they're original.

As far as ggtsvnv's comment, I WAS originally looking for a big block car, but I was always open to the possibility of a Z28, one just never presented itself.  I really like ALL 1st gen Camaros, and was looking for an original high-performance version of one, be it a big block or a Z28.

It also seems to me that, over the long run, a Z28 will hold/appreciate in value more.  I'm not looking for a car as an investment, but I can't ignore that aspect of purchasing a vehicle.  No one wants to buy a car knowing that it will lose value, the only exception being cars purchased for sentimental reasons, and as far as I know, I was NOT conceived in the back of any type of Camaro, so the sentimental pull for a particular model isn't there.

Chris

[67rs/ss350 68z/28]

Alternator is another big dollar item $1,000.00- $1,500.00 And it should have a big deep grove pulley. Does he have the original 4.56 gears??  Did the distributor look too clean for the car?? There should have been a date code on it. Maybe Restamp? Something to think of as far as paying for the car. Of course if you wanted it to be original.
Hard and expensive parts
Alternator $1,000.00- $1,500.00
Distributor $1,500.00- $2,000.00
Clutch and fan clutch  $2,500.00-$3,000.00
Radiator with OD tanks $800.00- $1,500.00
Complete Pollution pump etc. $2,500-$3,000.00
Factory dated 4.56 gears $300.00
Rechrome those valve covers $300.00
Thermostat housing with casting number $150.00
Correct master cylinder $300.00
As you can see parts add up fast! Some parts you can find cheaper some cost more, depends on condition and how bad you want ( need) them. With in the last few years I have sold a 1111467 dist for $1,600.00, BU 12 bolt rear end $2,400.00, 814 alt. $1,100.00, T/ housing $150.00

[barsteel]

67rs -

My whole objective with this car for now would be to go through it, make sure that everything was up to snuff, i.e. brakes, fluids, cooling, etc, polish it up, and drive it for a while.  Yes, it's a little rough around the edges, but it's presentable and driveable as is.  I do NOT want to buy a car, and then take 5 years to restore it before I can drive it.  I'm ok with not having a perfectly restored car right now.

Honestly, the end game for this car is to have a nice original driver.  I do NOT want a trailer queen/garage ornament.  If I end up with a car that's 95% original, I'm fine with it.

Distributor was about as dirty as the rest of the engine and did not look out of place.
Engine had a fan with a clutch - original?  Don't know, but one is there.
Factory dated gears are gone - it would be nice to have them, but I wouldn't have them put back in anyway.  4.56 is too damn low for practical street use IMHO.

Radiator/alternator/MC, etc, I'm ok with not being original.  They're there, they work, and they don't look entirely out of place.  If I decide to go for a concours resto, then I'll worry about it.

Chris

[Charley]

Atta boy. Don't get too caught up in chasing the bolt on stuff like alternators etc. It sounds like the heart of the car is in good shape and it is not somebodies cobbled together mess. Play with it and drive it like it was meant to be. Keep it warm and dry, take proper care of it, fix stuff as needed and you will get a ton of enjoyment at a reasonable cost.

[dannystarr]

Prices quoted above are just about in line and correct. The only thing I would say is a complete all original smog set-up totally restored is about $1,695 to $1,800 all day at several locations. You probably will skip the smog. I was going to pull al that stuff off my car, and not worry about a lot of things. But then I discovered that it is TOO original. I hope you get it and post in the coming days that you are back home with the car... D

[69Z28-RS]

Atta boy. Don't get too caught up in chasing the bolt on stuff like alternators etc. It sounds like the heart of the car is in good shape and it is not somebodies cobbled together mess. Play with it and drive it like it was meant to be. Keep it warm and dry, take proper care of it, fix stuff as needed and you will get a ton of enjoyment at a reasonable cost.

Great advice...   fix as needed... preserve/drive/enjoy...

[67rs/ss350 68z/28]

I wasn't intending that he should buy all the parts, just to realize depending what he wants to do with the car parts prices are crazy. Use it as a guide toward the purchase price of the car.

 I like the idea Danny has with the original Butternut yellow one ( nice car by the way! and great pictures of the originality), drive it as it is. I started restoring my 68 Z 20 years ago ( still not done), and went too crazy with it. Going to be a trailer queen, no fun in that. I'd rather be driving it and enjoy using it. That's why I have other cars to drive

Price for smog system I was talking about includes correct exhaust manifolds, not sure what's on the blue car?

[HawkX66]

Going to be a trailer queen, no fun in that. I'd rather be driving it and enjoy using it.

Then do it. There are no rules other than the ones you put on yourself. I don't care how much time and money I've put into mine when I'm done with it, I'll be driving it.

[dannystarr]

Thanx, I am sure having a lot of fun. Going for a ride today!    I really like taking the time and making sure my pictures are nice. You are right if ya need the whole package with the exhaust manifolds, it adds up fast. I have a really nice extra original power brake vacuum hose bracket that I am keeping for trading purposes. Maybe someone will have some Cowl Plenum parts or something I need and they need this bracket. It will help me cut the cost.... Danny

[68camaroz28]

67rs -

My whole objective with this car for now would be to go through it, make sure that everything was up to snuff, i.e. brakes, fluids, cooling, etc, polish it up, and drive it for a while.  Yes, it's a little rough around the edges, but it's presentable and driveable as is.  I do NOT want to buy a car, and then take 5 years to restore it before I can drive it.  I'm ok with not having a perfectly restored car right now.

Honestly, the end game for this car is to have a nice original driver.  I do NOT want a trailer queen/garage ornament.  If I end up with a car that's 95% original, I'm fine with it.

Distributor was about as dirty as the rest of the engine and did not look out of place.
Engine had a fan with a clutch - original?  Don't know, but one is there.
Factory dated gears are gone - it would be nice to have them, but I wouldn't have them put back in anyway.  4.56 is too damn low for practical street use IMHO.

Radiator/alternator/MC, etc, I'm ok with not being original.  They're there, they work, and they don't look entirely out of place.  If I decide to go for a concours resto, then I'll worry about it.

Chris

If you get it you have the correct idea for sure so enjoy! 67RS did just bring up what things cost so some of the fun can also knowing what you need and having fun working to find things that are needed on the cheap and it can be done, especially small items.
I know Danny is sure having a lot of fun.......

[67rs/ss350 68z/28]

Thanx, I am sure having a lot of fun. Going for a ride today!    I really like taking the time and making sure my pictures are nice. You are right if ya need the whole package with the exhaust manifolds, it adds up fast. I have a really nice extra original power brake vacuum hose bracket that I am keeping for trading purposes. Maybe someone will have some Cowl Plenum parts or something I need and they need this bracket. It will help me cut the cost.... Danny

I do need that vacuum hose bracket if you decide to get rid of it. Or trade it let me know

It is fun driving my 67 rs/ss convertible, that's a driver. Or my blown 72 Vega wagon or other's to chose from

[barsteel]

67RS -

No offense taken, and I do appreciate the detail around cost of parts.  Gives me an ideas of what I'm in for if I do decide to bring it back to 100% original.

Chris

[KurtS]

Drive it.
Then fix the 1/4's and repaint. Detail it and keep driving it....

[dannystarr]

You guys taught me to run it as it is for a while. Enjoy it and it can always be worked on later. At first I pictured it restored like the picture below. But now it's all about survivor. Too much fun!! D

[x77-69z28]

Danny, I love how much you are enjoying your car! Don't make a trailer queen out of it. My 67 RS/SS was a fun driver, bought from the original owner in 1984. I put it in storage after getting married and buying a house in 1989. I took it out of moth balls in 2004 and started a four year frame off, nut and bolt restoration on it. Since finishing it in 2008, I think I have put about 750 miles on it!

[barsteel]

Well, after 2 days of texting back and fourth, we agreed on a price.

I should have it home is the next 2-3 weeks.

And so it begins...

Chris

[68camaroz28]

Well, after 2 days of texting back and fourth, we agreed on a price.

I should have it home is the next 2-3 weeks.

And so it begins...

Chris

Congratulations Chris!

[janobyte]

Good for you, welcome


Price was between you two...

Nice to hear of another one finding a good home, and not rotting away.

[barsteel]

As far as price goes, you all know what he was asking for it.

You all also know what the general opinion of value was...some said ok, more said a little too high.

I paid less than his asking price, but he probably thinks that he sold it for a little less than he should have, and I think that I probably paid a little more than I should have.

But...we're both happy with the outcome, and I'm PSYCHED to have a numbers matching car.

Can't wait to get take that maiden (for me) ride.

Chris

[BULLITT65]

WTG Chris.

I am excited for you just like I was for Danny to get his Z. I hope everything goes smoothly with the transaction, and bringing it home. The view of the Camaro in your garage is priceless! Those are the pics I want to see.

What a Christmas gift!

[Charley]

Congrats...I wanna see a big burnout....

[wtexz10]

Nice score Chris!  I had a 68 in high school when it was 3 years old.  Brings back lot's of memories.  The car cost me a whopping $1,100. with 54k on the engine.  Lemans Blue, blue interior.  Traded it in, 1974....for get this a 73 Vega GT.  Now for the tragic part......the dealer gave me $650, for a perfectly good, stock Z/28.   What dope I was.

Enjoy.

Circa 1972, the only two polaroids I have.

[69Z28-RS]

.....
 I had a 68 in high school when it was 3 years old.  Brings back lot's of memories.  The car cost me a whopping $1,100. with 54k on the engine.  Lemans Blue, blue interior.  Traded it in, 1974....for get this a 73 Vega GT.  Now for the tragic part......the dealer gave me $650, for a perfectly good, stock Z/28.   What dope I was.

I bet the Vega got lots better gas mileage than the Z28!!  and I'd also bet that had a lot to do with your trading it in the midst of the '74 gas crunch, and also impacted what your dealer allowed you for trade in..

Man, there were some great deals on great cars in those days..  one part of me was saying to 'buy one or two'.. and another part was saying .. 'and what if you can't get gas for them?'...

[pjbizjak]

Barsteel; What is the casting date of the block? Should be in the rangee of 3/15 - 3/27. My 04A built Z/28 was also assembled 0329.

[x77-69z28]

Congrats. You have taken your first step into a larger world!

[ds1]

Congratulations also.   Being happy w your purchase is good to hear.    I paid fair market and got the value of the parts.  Along with some cool history.     

[z28z11]

Nice score Chris!  I had a 68 in high school when it was 3 years old.  Brings back lot's of memories.  The car cost me a whopping $1,100. with 54k on the engine.  Lemans Blue, blue interior.  Traded it in, 1974....for get this a 73 Vega GT.  Now for the tragic part......the dealer gave me $650, for a perfectly good, stock Z/28.   What dope I was.

Enjoy.

Circa 1972, the only two polaroids I have.

Ever tried to run it to ground ? Any VIN records ?

I lived through the gas crunch myself, but fortunately kept my Z.

At the least - you didn't trade for a Pinto -

Regards,
Steve

[Jon Mello]

That's a cool car, barsteel.  Congratulations on the purchase.

[ZLP955]

Nice car, look forward to hearing more about your first drive!

[wtexz10]

That's a cool car, barsteel.  Congratulations on the purchase.

Nice score Chris!  I had a 68 in high school when it was 3 years old.  Brings back lot's of memories.  The car cost me a whopping $1,100. with 54k on the engine.  Lemans Blue, blue interior.  Traded it in, 1974....for get this a 73 Vega GT.  Now for the tragic part......the dealer gave me $650, for a perfectly good, stock Z/28.   What dope I was.

Enjoy.

Circa 1972, the only two polaroids I have.

Ever tried to run it to ground ? Any VIN records ?

I lived through the gas crunch myself, but fortunately kept my Z.

At the least - you didn't trade for a Pinto -

Regards,
Steve

.....
 I had a 68 in high school when it was 3 years old.  Brings back lot's of memories.  The car cost me a whopping $1,100. with 54k on the engine.  Lemans Blue, blue interior.  Traded it in, 1974....for get this a 73 Vega GT.  Now for the tragic part......the dealer gave me $650, for a perfectly good, stock Z/28.   What dope I was.

I bet the Vega got lots better gas mileage than the Z28!!  and I'd also bet that had a lot to do with your trading it in the midst of the '74 gas crunch, and also impacted what your dealer allowed you for trade in..

Man, there were some great deals on great cars in those days..  one part of me was saying to 'buy one or two'.. and another part was saying .. 'and what if you can't get gas for them?'...

Yes the 74 gas crunch was the catalyst.  Gas had gone from about 23cents a gallon to a whopping 35 cents, and I convinced my self that I couldn't afford to put gas in the Z/28, although I recall getting around 15 on the highway.   The Vega got around 23.  The reality was that muscle cars where going or had gone out of style and I wanted a change.  I remember a friend of mine was driving a Tall Wing Superbird and was constantly being made fun of.   

I had friends who owned GTX, Roadrunners, SS Chevelles, big block Camaros, 442 W30's, 69 Trans AM, Buick GSX, Javelins, GTO's, 396 SS Novas, and the list goes on and on.  Funny thing, none of us could predict the future, so they were sold or traded.  Most of us bought them when they were 3 or 4 years old and they were just used cars.

I do have the VIN for the 68, so if anyone knows how to trace it, I'm all ears.

[janobyte]

"Most of us bought them when they were 3 or 4 years old and they were just used cars."    and by the late 70's--80's they were mostly "used" up. Which should come as no surprise that some of these glossed over mud buckets coming out of Muscle car dealerships may have been warmed over several times. Seems like more and more horror stories are making the various forums.

Funny you bring up a winged car, not going to say the price, but a buddy of mine wanted to buy a "field car" to fix up in the late 70's....his Dad said absolutely not, " junk Mopar gas guzzler" One of my high school cars was a 68 GTO vert. Clean car by today's standards, bought it for really next to nothing. Cheap enough were mowing lawns after school took it home. (made payments to the owner)

Relatively speaking, a clean Z tended to hold a good price ( based on what I have been offered over the years) Mine was sold in 76 (to my Father) to buy a TR7. Guy wanted to by it back as early as 79,the answer was always no. I got it from Dad in the 80's....very fair price...with stipulations.

The "money shot" is before you unload it off the trailer when you get it home....do post !---steve

[ggtsvnv]

Wtexz10
Where did you live when you had that 68 z? I cannot help you trace the Vin but my car came from west Texas and the guy I got it from said he bought it after it was traded in on a new vega. Mine is blue on blue if you were in west Texas at that time maybe the same car? There were only 7199 1968 z's could not have been a lot of blue on blue in west texas. I would be interested to find out if it's the same car.its a long shot but maybe?

[firstgenaddict]

I like the 4.56's and teal blue... uncommon options pointing to an original owner with a reason/purpose.
I bet the original owner has stories... 

[x66 714]

I too like the 4.56 gears. Mine came that way also & they're still in it. Makes it a lot of fun in town....Joe

[pjbizjak]

Just scanned though these posts and I didn't see were anyone brought up the difference of the vin# between the engine block and vin plate. 470 vs 428???

[BULLITT65]

I don't  see the 428. I see 470 on the paperwork for the vin, and see 470 stamped on the pad. The only place I see "428" is the last three digits of the body number on the firewall tag. It is my understanding this does not correlate with the vin number directly.