Ok, let me try to answer some questions
I sprayed carb cleaner around the base of the intake. I really couldn't tell if there was a rise in the idle. I remember doing that years ago and having the idle increase. Didn't happen, if it did it was so subtle. Will try water...
I already had tightened the intake bolts a few days ago. The middle 4 were some what loose. And turned 3/4 of a turn easily. Rest were tight and didn't budge.
I have that miti-vac hand pump. I used it to help bleed the brakes. I will try the distributor advance. But I think patience is more in order and I am going to send it to JM. I just found out that the 532 point plate is NOT in the dist. I thought I was told it was, my fault. So def. need to have it put back stock. Anybody have an extra point plate before I send it away??
Motor never apart as far as I can tell. Should still have the 30/30 Duntov. So no crazy grind.
I have not pulled the plugs in a while. I am going to install another set in the coming days.
Compression was a LITTLE all over the map from 155 to 180. Only ONE cylinder had 180, rest were 172 etc. etc.
Will do the clean rag over carb trick again. Last time I did it when all this first started, as I mentioned in a previous post, it died with-in a half to one second! Just RIGHT NOW died. Witch led me to believe there was no Vac leak.
Didn't know about the smog pump pulley thing. I sure can't spend $400 on a pulley. I would bet my left testy that this is the one that was on the car when it left the factory. 56 thousand original miles, who would pull it and change it, and why?
Gary - Here is the pictures showing location of front head stamps. I shot the pic's starting from a ways back and then closer.
Also the left shock tower cap still in place. Checked the tapper etc. against Chick's close-up posted picture of his original and an aftermarket. Look like mine is original.
Right side front - head stamp