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Author Topic: My New '68 Camaro Z/28 Butternut Yellow  (Read 12689 times)
dannystarr
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« on: July 17, 2014, 02:17:20 PM »

My girlfriend seen me interested in this car, and how I was watching the rebuild of Chick's Butternut Yellow Z/28 and bought this car for me. Seems to be original from the air cleaner wing nut to the wheels excluding water pump, hoses, belts, battery, battery cables, Rad cap { anybody have one } and small misc items. Even the exhaust is original. Had Cowl Plenum system installed, and stolen while in storage? Comes with POP, and Owner Protection booklet. I wanted to run the plates but all of my highway patrol and local cop buddies have retired. The DMV here in CA says the plates are still in another name. NCRS paperwork shows GM overseas distribution, possibly the Netherlands.
 I spent well over 100 hours getting info.

  Seems the first owner drove it for just about 6.5 months give or take a week of days. Put A LOT of miles on it, about 18,590. Don’t have his name, not on any early receipts…Maybe traded it in to “Central Chevrolet”  in Fremont, CA Late '68 or early '69. Delivery states overseas dealer, possibly the Netherlands. But could have been ordered from overseas, but picked up here state side. Maybe shipped or not, don’t know. Probably a serviceman.

Sat on the lot in CA for 3 months? Person I believe is the second owner Richard Ward Anderson lived in Santa Rosa, CA (?) and seen the ad from that dealership and purchased the car March 26th ‘69 and kept it until the late 80’s. Lived in Santa Rosa but also had a house in Pebble Beach? As there is a receipt from Santa Rosa a while after purchase, then scattered receipts all from around Monterey County. But may have bought some tires and spark plugs around 4 of ’69 in Santa Rosa. Although his name is not on THOSE receipts. Then subsequently parked it in Pebble Beach inside a garage near the coast for a while. Registration trail ends in ’89 ? Then a guy bought it and had it for many many years and never registered it in his name. Then his friend bought it from him 2 years ago. It was titled in his name with a current pink slip in another state, but still had the original CA plates.   YKZ 821

Car underside has slight faded Yellow underneath and in great condition. Has all original floors, trunk and GM panels. Looks to be a true Survivor! Not a major dent in it anywhere! 56K original Miles. Fires right up and runs good. No major rot. But a little silver dollar spot at usual area bottom body by door. And some around rear window left side.  All original paint. Heater core leaking, bypassed. Front bumper bowed at right center slightly. No #3908326 proportioning valve on drivers frame. Please look it over and let me know what you can spot good or bad. And if you have a connection for past documentation of any kind or ownership.... Danny
  
VINCheckSM
   Results for VIN: 124378N445453
   
VINCheckSM Theft Record   

124378N445453 has not been identified as a vehicle listed in VINCheckSM Theft Records


VINCheckSM Total Loss Record
 
Further information is available through Carfax .
124378N445453 has not been identified as a vehicle listed in the VINCheckSM Total Loss Records.

« Last Edit: July 17, 2014, 02:35:00 PM by dannystarr » Logged
dannystarr
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« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2014, 02:18:38 PM »

More Pics...
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« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2014, 02:32:49 PM »

Documentation...
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Kelley W King
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« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2014, 02:50:24 PM »

Don,t know about the car but I might would keep the girlfriend.
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« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2014, 02:52:04 PM »

more...
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maroman
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« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2014, 02:57:56 PM »

Buff it up and drive it. KEEP the GF.
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« Reply #6 on: July 17, 2014, 02:58:28 PM »

Does she have any sisters?
     VT
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« Reply #7 on: July 17, 2014, 03:14:48 PM »

Congrats Danny! Looks like a great project. Couldn't have come at a better time!  Best of luck with it. The POP looks to be a replacement as the name and address of the owner is stamped in tin and not dymol tape. I am very happy for you. My wife is great, but she has never bought me a car! She is a keeper.
Buddy
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« Reply #8 on: July 17, 2014, 03:25:38 PM »

 
Does she have any sisters?
     VT

That was what I was going to ask.   Smiley

I would do minor detailing and leave it as close to how you got it for a while.  Maybe fix the heater core if you want, but that would be about it.

Make sure it is SAFE to drive. Check the brakes and maybe flush all fluids.

You can always restore it later.  It is only a survivor once.   Good luck!
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« Reply #9 on: July 17, 2014, 04:37:15 PM »

Very cool. where did you find that gem?
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« Reply #10 on: July 17, 2014, 04:42:22 PM »

 The GF or the car? Cheesy
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« Reply #11 on: July 17, 2014, 04:50:37 PM »

Vince your killin me bro.... I was thinking the same thing after posting, and thought "nah nobody would get it'...

(Danny where did you find the car, or where did she find it?)
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
Looking for 3192477 (front) spiral shocks 3192851 (rear) please
Looking for an original LOF soft ray windshield
Looking for original Delco side post negative battery cable part # 6297651AV
Jon Mello
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« Reply #12 on: July 17, 2014, 05:05:57 PM »

That car is awesome and so is your girlfriend. You're a lucky guy. Congrats!
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« Reply #13 on: July 17, 2014, 05:09:07 PM »

Nice...
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« Reply #14 on: July 17, 2014, 05:10:11 PM »

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=12146.0

Paul
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« Reply #15 on: July 17, 2014, 05:15:14 PM »

thanks, thought it looked familiar.
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
Looking for 3192477 (front) spiral shocks 3192851 (rear) please
Looking for an original LOF soft ray windshield
Looking for original Delco side post negative battery cable part # 6297651AV
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« Reply #16 on: July 17, 2014, 06:12:25 PM »

Danny, here is the ad the 2nd owner saw.  Did the previous owner give you this when you bought the car?  I had found the ad for it by chance (before the car surfaced) when I was looking through old newspaper ads online and saving ones with vins.  It was a fluke that this car later surfaced only months after I found the ad!  I have the full page PDF saved if you want a copy.  Just shoot me an email.  Warren


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Warren

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« Reply #17 on: July 17, 2014, 06:32:48 PM »

Very cool find, Warren.  Smiley

Paul
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« Reply #18 on: July 17, 2014, 07:25:57 PM »

Danny, thanks for posting the pictures. Great car and four thumbs up to the girl friend. Better marry her, before she gets away. Give that girl a diamond and no telling what she will buy you...!!!!!

TMR
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dannystarr
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« Reply #19 on: July 17, 2014, 08:20:15 PM »

Thanx guys, yes it is a nice treat for sure. As the link above shows, it was discussed on CRG a few weeks back. And so that is where we seen it. I replaced the front calipers and brake lines as they were pouring brake fluid. Rears are ok for now. I did a compression test and all cylinders were between 155 and 172#'s, one cylinder was 180#'s. I installed a set of points and condenser, cap and rotor and a set of wires and set the dwell at 30. Book said between 28 and 32. So I went in the middle, is that ok??  Set the timing with a vacuum gauge. Brought it up to the highest point, then backed it off a single pound and set it tight. Flushed and bled the brake fluid and installed an aftermarket master for now. Hooked up the vacuum advance to a tee at the choke pull-off for manifold vacuum. And plugged the Ported vacuum at the carb. Radiator was full of anti-freeze. I will flush it soon. Installed new thermostat. Replaced top and bottom hose for now. Carb float bowl levels were to high and weeping out the top, so I set those. Set the idle at 900. I was going to wire off the choke as we really don't need them here in CA, but I left it, and put the stainless piano wire back in the tool box.
 Took it for a spin, and it pulls pretty good. There is no tach so I took it easy and didn't wind it to high. Took it up to about 70MPH. Good Times!! Going to leave it like this for now and run it for the summer. Then we will see. Danny  
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« Reply #20 on: July 17, 2014, 08:29:10 PM »

good for you brother ,32 degrees dwell ,38 total advance timing.---steve.
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dannystarr
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« Reply #21 on: July 17, 2014, 08:31:03 PM »

Thanx...Copy that, I will take it to 32 later tonight. I use vacuum to set the timing, but I will get out my timing light and do some checking.... Danny

Warren, yes I have that sheet you sent him. Very cool for sure. That is where I think Richard seen the car and bought it. I am still researching that. But what a find to actually have that ad. And it has the date of Jan 1st. '69. That's how I figured out about how long the first owner had the car. Thanx again... Danny
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dannystarr
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« Reply #22 on: July 17, 2014, 08:35:37 PM »

More pics... Look close and you can see the butternut yellow overspray on the cowl tag... Danny
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« Reply #23 on: July 17, 2014, 08:38:10 PM »

Easy enough to just take the choke out completely. 2 or 3 pumps and it will fire for you, if tuned.
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dannystarr
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« Reply #24 on: July 17, 2014, 08:47:15 PM »

VIN plate at Drivers Dash...Trans stamps and First hidden VIN at Passenger Cowl.... Danny
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dannystarr
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« Reply #25 on: July 17, 2014, 08:50:18 PM »

Cowl VIN
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« Reply #26 on: July 17, 2014, 09:09:50 PM »

Very cool! I looked at where you saw it and didn't realize I was the one that brought it up!
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« Reply #27 on: July 17, 2014, 10:13:14 PM »

Danny...   super nice find..  on both..  Smiley

and I like the car.. just do what maintenance you need to do, keep as much of the original parts as possible... and PRESERVE the body (ie. stop the rust and prevent it's growing).. Smiley...  scrub, clean, treat.. touch up..  whatever you need to do to prevent it's getting worse.. and preserve as much of the original paint as possible .. as long as possible.  Smiley

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« Reply #28 on: July 17, 2014, 10:44:24 PM »

GREAT CAR!
You are going to have Fun.

Jim
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« Reply #29 on: July 17, 2014, 11:10:50 PM »

Danny is that a "C "after the P8E29 on the 4 speed? If so wouldn't it be a M-22 trans?
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« Reply #30 on: July 17, 2014, 11:23:55 PM »

Make sure you tell her she's the star of this thread.
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dannystarr
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« Reply #31 on: July 18, 2014, 02:21:11 AM »

Hey Vince, I seen that also. It actually looks like the bottom of another E to me. But you are right, it could be a baby C. I can tell you it doesn't have the bottom drain plug, so I think it's an M-20? I will post the other trans pic's. I am hoping all of you experts chime in and keep chiming in to tell me the stamps, and numbers look good. I spent a lot of time collecting data.... Danny
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« Reply #32 on: July 18, 2014, 02:27:26 AM »

Both heads dated May 6th '68
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« Reply #33 on: July 18, 2014, 02:36:51 AM »

Cowl Tag info
O5E
68-12437      NOR    145458     BODY  
TR - 712               YY                PAINT

O5E = 5th Week of May
68 -12437 = 1968 Camaro Coupe
NOR = Body Assembly Plant - Norwood Ohio
145458 = Fisher Body Unit Number
TR -712 = Black Standard Bucket Seats Interior
YY = Butternut Yellow Paint – Lower/Upper No Vinyl Top

Protection Plan Booklet Info

     E        YY       124378N445453   H
     VO523MO   BU0524G               6
     P8E29           2   63  
Note: POP shows rear axle code      BU0524G
Actual rear axle stamping in car is   BUO525G
Was this a common mistake to be a day or so off in either direction? Especially with SO MANY 4’s & 5’s in the VIN? Could this be a good thing to show some human error?

Engine Front Pad Assembly Date/Plant/Suffix Code VIN

V0523MO
V = Flint Michigan
05 = Numeric Month of the Year - May
23 = Numeric Day of the Month 23rd - Thursday
MO = Suffix Code – Z/28   4-speed Transmission
18N445453 – Partial VIN

Rear Axle Assembly Stamp / Casting Number

BU 0525 G2
        E
BU = Rear Axle Ratio Code - 3:73
05 = Numeric Month of the Year - May
25 = Numeric Day of the Month - 25th Day - Saturday
G = Gear Axle Plant - Detroit
2 = Shift Code – Second Shift
E = Positraction Manufacturer Code – Eaton Company
 
Casting # 3894860
= 12 Bolt Rear End

Rear Axle #’s / Casting Date

E208
E = Month of the Year – May
20 = Numeric Day of the Month – 20th Day
8 = Last Digit of Year 1968
= Monday May 20th 1968
« Last Edit: July 18, 2014, 03:26:01 AM by dannystarr » Logged
dannystarr
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« Reply #34 on: July 18, 2014, 02:42:42 AM »

Cowl Tag rivet backs...
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« Reply #35 on: July 18, 2014, 02:44:17 AM »

Block Casting Date...
Block Casting Date = E218
E = Month of the Year - May
21 = Numeric Day of the Month - 21st. Day
 8 = Year - 1968
 = Tuesday May 21st. 1968 
« Last Edit: July 18, 2014, 03:01:39 AM by dannystarr » Logged
dannystarr
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« Reply #36 on: July 18, 2014, 02:47:24 AM »

Rear Axle #'s...
« Last Edit: July 18, 2014, 03:29:00 AM by dannystarr » Logged
dannystarr
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« Reply #37 on: July 18, 2014, 02:54:27 AM »

Trans Side cover...and ID Part Number Tag
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« Reply #38 on: July 18, 2014, 02:59:17 AM »

Block numbers above oil filter, embossed in block.   944  657  78N    What are these??
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dannystarr
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« Reply #39 on: July 18, 2014, 03:32:24 AM »

Maybe it will look like one of these some day...
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« Reply #40 on: July 18, 2014, 06:04:27 AM »

Great car Danny, very pleased you got it! And if I were you, I'd put a ring on your girl's finger, she deserves it.
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« Reply #41 on: July 18, 2014, 07:16:51 AM »

Hey Vince, I seen that also. It actually looks like the bottom of another E to me. But you are right, it could be a baby C. I can tell you it doesn't have the bottom drain plug, so I think it's an M-20? I will post the other trans pic's. I am hoping all of you experts chime in and keep chiming in to tell me the stamps, and numbers look good. I spent a lot of time collecting data.... Danny

1968 Muncies that have that little 'c' after the code doesn't mean they are an M22... It's probably an M20... as you said.

Danny, you're doing a great job of documenting the stampings, codes, and numbers for your car..  I suggest you make a digital document (and preserve it) for all the data you are collecting.   That will go great with the car...  Smiley
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« Reply #42 on: July 18, 2014, 08:51:32 AM »

<< Block numbers above oil filter, embossed in block.   944  657  78N    What are these?? >>

Those are foundry pattern numbers - in case there was a problem with the casting, they knew which pattern made the mold the block was cast from.
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dannystarr
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« Reply #43 on: July 18, 2014, 10:28:05 AM »

Gary thanx, I have ALOT more info. I will slowly get it posted. It's fun, especially when it is correct and matching of course. I am trying to do a nice clean clear picture taking job of it all.

JohnZ, Can you tell me what these frame numbers are? The are on the outside right frame rail in the wheel well. Can't quite read it all, but you can see the 68. I am surprised they are still there.
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« Reply #44 on: July 18, 2014, 10:32:49 AM »

Motor Pics...
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« Reply #45 on: July 18, 2014, 10:35:09 AM »

More Motor
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« Reply #46 on: July 18, 2014, 10:36:29 AM »

more
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« Reply #47 on: July 18, 2014, 11:26:24 AM »

Good stuff !  thanks for sharing.
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« Reply #48 on: July 18, 2014, 11:52:00 AM »

Does she have any sisters?
     VT

I'm interested to know the answer to this ?
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« Reply #49 on: July 18, 2014, 12:03:38 PM »

The trans tag 3915085 is for an M21.
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« Reply #50 on: July 18, 2014, 06:15:02 PM »

As far as sisters, she is 42 on Sunday and an only child. Sorry about that.. Sad
And yes I am taking care of her for her birthday, in MANY ways!!  Wink Wink

  And Marty, thanx very much on the trans info. Hadn't researched it yet.

     More pics... Air Cleaner wing nut.. Carb is a correct carb but too early as it is dated Jan, Air Cleaner assembly
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« Reply #51 on: July 18, 2014, 06:32:37 PM »

more
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« Reply #52 on: July 18, 2014, 06:37:01 PM »

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« Reply #53 on: July 18, 2014, 06:38:48 PM »

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« Reply #54 on: July 18, 2014, 06:41:27 PM »

This is one of those threads that you can't wait to see the latest post and pics. These originals are very intriguing. Congrats Danny!
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« Reply #55 on: July 18, 2014, 06:52:19 PM »

Thanx, and I will take picture requests. I have it all... You cannot stump me... ha ha
 Booster Vacuum hose bracket, 2 Piece Throttle Linkage, Return Spring, Alt with "GT" Stamped Mounting Brackets, Dip Stick, Rad Support Sticker, Fan and Clutch, Thermostat Neck, Radiator tag was in glove box, kinda rotted at mounting point.
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« Reply #56 on: July 18, 2014, 06:54:12 PM »

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« Reply #57 on: July 18, 2014, 06:56:02 PM »

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« Reply #58 on: July 18, 2014, 07:11:38 PM »

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« Reply #59 on: July 18, 2014, 07:53:53 PM »

Danny I got to say it is so great to see you are obviously feeling better, excited about this special find car, but mostly you have got someone who obviously loves you to make your meals, give up her house to you for a week, and then buy you this car. Its like a fairy tail story. I will be checking every day for new updates on how things progress. Best of health to you and keep the pictures coming. George
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« Reply #60 on: July 18, 2014, 10:22:04 PM »

Danny the yellow markings on the subframe is the date code, there was a thread on this subject here or at TC so I'll see if I can find & post the link. But from memory, the date codes pictured in that thread were on 69s and located on the drivers side where the bumper bracket attached.
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« Reply #61 on: July 19, 2014, 12:08:41 AM »

Hey George, yes it is a blast. I am not feeling to bad. Don't have the strength I did but making it happen the best I can. Trying to forget about the 66 THOUSAND dollars in hospital bills, AFTER insurance. The girlfriend is awesome! And for sure a keeper. Thanx...

 ZLP I figured it was some kind of a date code of course cause it has a '68 at the end. But I had never seen anything like this. This car has a lot of cool stuff when it comes to numbers. More to come.
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« Reply #62 on: July 19, 2014, 12:19:01 AM »

Pitman arm, Idler arm, Motor mounts, Steering arms, Caliper brackets, Backing plates
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« Reply #63 on: July 19, 2014, 12:21:52 AM »

more, Coil Ballast Resistor marked Delco Remy,
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« Reply #64 on: July 19, 2014, 12:25:10 AM »

Inside front fender, mounting fasteners of Z/28 Emblems
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« Reply #65 on: July 19, 2014, 12:30:31 AM »

more steering and front end part numbers
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« Reply #66 on: July 19, 2014, 12:36:33 AM »

more... Piece of black tape under right side of deck lid under spoiler. But not on left side?
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« Reply #67 on: July 19, 2014, 12:38:15 AM »

more
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« Reply #68 on: July 19, 2014, 12:44:35 AM »

under rear spoiler
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« Reply #69 on: July 19, 2014, 12:50:52 AM »

Voltage Regulator, Horn Relay
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« Reply #70 on: July 19, 2014, 12:51:42 AM »

more
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« Reply #71 on: July 19, 2014, 12:56:01 AM »

Danny, found the thread discussing subframe markings - link here:
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=11678.0
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« Reply #72 on: July 19, 2014, 01:01:19 AM »

Awesome, thank you, will go there now and check it out... Then gotta hit the sheets...
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« Reply #73 on: July 19, 2014, 01:17:01 AM »

Rear Brake Drums and 46 Year Old Brake drum " BU " Sticker - Right Side
« Last Edit: July 19, 2014, 01:54:28 AM by dannystarr » Logged
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« Reply #74 on: July 19, 2014, 01:22:40 AM »

Starter and solenoid - Starter Support Stabilizer Bracket
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« Reply #75 on: July 19, 2014, 01:28:23 AM »

brake booster
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« Reply #76 on: July 19, 2014, 01:34:07 AM »

Distributor
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« Reply #77 on: July 19, 2014, 01:35:25 AM »

Manual Steering Box
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« Reply #78 on: July 19, 2014, 01:38:14 AM »

Speedometer Firewall Penetration
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« Reply #79 on: July 19, 2014, 01:39:17 AM »

Danny, outstanding photos!  Keep them coming!!!  Smiley

Paul
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« Reply #80 on: July 19, 2014, 01:44:57 AM »

Gas Tank
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« Reply #81 on: July 19, 2014, 01:55:20 AM »

Front Rotors, Left side stamped 142 G1... What is this?
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« Reply #82 on: July 19, 2014, 04:28:51 AM »

congratulations that's a great find , its like a cool Camaro rat rod the way it is , with original patina

hows the Muncie shifter working on it?

they can get pretty bad with old dried out original grease in them

would like to see pics of the Muncie shifter if you get a chance
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« Reply #83 on: July 19, 2014, 06:23:40 AM »

Danny, try a little white vinegar on the chrome. Soak a rag with it and tape it on for about 24 hours. Then use some baking soda water to neutralize it.
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« Reply #84 on: July 19, 2014, 06:57:41 AM »

Danny, I saw the harness clip (retainer) on the alternator is white, are the other T shaped harness retainers on the engine harness also white? George
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« Reply #85 on: July 19, 2014, 10:32:22 AM »

That car is awesome looking! Don't know what direction you are going to go with the paint but the "patina" look is really popular with old truck guys. If your surface rust isn't to bad you could CLR it to remove the rust and bring back the paint. Just do a google search for CLR patina car and you can see some results. Some of these cars look amazing afterwards. Congrats on that car though!
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« Reply #86 on: July 19, 2014, 10:43:07 AM »

 Thanx Paul, I know my fellow enthusiasts want pictures pictures, then more pictures. So like I mentioned, I will make that happen. As I have spent probably well over 100 hours. This car is pretty darn original for sure. EVERYTHING is dated May '68. All the requirements of date stamping times according to CRG are correct. This needs to be stamped before this, and this needs to be with-in this many days of that and so on...

 Hey JoeC, the shifter is not bad. I saturated it with white lithium grease and just soaked it with that. It was already ok, but shifts well. I then read to not use that kind of lubricant on shifters... whoops.. I have some pictures of the shifter, they are not great cause it's tucked up in the well, but I will post them right now.

Maroman, I had never heard of that. I will give it a shot as I have 2 or 3 gallons of white vinegar. I use it to clean the combustion chambers in On Demand tankless water heaters. It gets really hot in that garage, right at 90 a couple days ago. So I better do it on a day like yesterday... 77 outside. So much cooler in garage.

George, I noticed that clip also. It is sticking out a bit and still holding on. I will be at my girlfriends garage later today. I will follow the harness and try to get you some pictures. If not, tomorrow should work.
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« Reply #87 on: July 19, 2014, 10:49:44 AM »

Hey Hoss, thanx, yes it is pretty cool for sure... Nice job with the CLR. Looks like a commercial for the company.  Grin I have to say there is spots where there is NO paint. The rust is deep. I am leaving it all as it is. I will buff it out and treat it and leave it be. I don't have thousands of dollars for a paint job. I barely had enough money to buy the water pump last week. So paints not going to happen.
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« Reply #88 on: July 19, 2014, 11:04:25 AM »

Hey Hoss, thanx, yes it is pretty cool for sure... Nice job with the CLR. Looks like a commercial for the company.  Grin I have to say there is spots where there is NO paint. The rust is deep. I am leaving it all as it is. I will buff it out and treat it and leave it be. I don't have thousands of dollars for a paint job. I barely had enough money to buy the water pump last week. So paints not going to happen.
Danny, if that stuff eliminates/minimizes the 'brown rust', then it would be a good idea...   if you do that, then wax the car, it will protect it from further rust, and it will look better... especially if it's garaged... Smiley

PS.  the '142' on your front hub/rotor is likely the julian date for it's production, as it's right in line with all the other original parts on your car... Smiley
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« Reply #89 on: July 19, 2014, 11:05:48 AM »

HELP... Just realized I don't know what oil to run. Gotta change it as it smells of gas and surely has no viscosity left. I put a whole container of Lucas oil treatment in it, and it has been in there during the whole timing, point dwell set and carb adjustments. So now I wanna drain it and then drain it again. I bought 3 filters but have no oil. Someone mentioned to buy Jo Gibb oil at 10 bucks a quart cause it has the proper lubricants added. AFTER the flushing of it all. What is this oil?? Only 56 thousand original miles, but sat for probably 20 years or more. Also what trans and rear diff fluid do I use. And should I add GM posi additive in the rear? I wanna try to buy all this stuff in the next week or so if I can get the money together. It's killing me, I wanna drive this baby..  Smiley Smiley
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« Reply #90 on: July 19, 2014, 11:23:50 AM »

We run Lucas in the race motor ( higher zinc content ) and I'll run it in the Z when it gets back on the road---check Summit prices , cost slips my mind right now but cheaper than synthetics . We buy it in 2 1/2 gallon jugs. Switched from VR-1. Just does not seem to break down ,and no fumes/steam from the breather's catch tank anymore. Pretty sure it comes in 10W40.  BTY my Z's  04D--pretty close build dates!
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« Reply #91 on: July 19, 2014, 11:26:01 AM »

Front Rotor.. I thought so... In my notes 142 is Tuesday May 21st 1968. But I wonder what the G1 is?? Just fun to learn ya know..

  I sure wish some of the more knowledgeable guys than me would chime in and tell me if the...Windshield VIN Plate - Hidden VIN Stamp - Block Casting - Block Casting Date - Front Pad Stamps - Trans VIN - Trans Assembly - ALL Rear End stamping - Serial Number Production Dates...Are original for sure, as I am getting nervous. At least tell me if the Cowl Tag and Rivets Look ok... Kurt, Jerry M, Mark, Ed, William, Joe, Paul, Chick, Ted, Pete, Frank, Mike, Dan, Sam, Jim, Harry, Brian, Brendan, Matt, Alan, Andy, Darrell, Cameron, David, Dennis... Wow there is a lot of names, Not even in e's and G's yet.. I better stop. Of course some of these are for fun..  Grin

Jano, I will buy the Lucas 10W/40, Sounds good to me. I was hoping some other guys with close, even closer than yours, would chime in with some comparisons on stamps, dates and fonts. We'll see... 
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« Reply #92 on: July 19, 2014, 11:31:52 AM »

Shifter and a Couple underneath..
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« Reply #93 on: July 19, 2014, 11:33:35 AM »

more shifter
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« Reply #94 on: July 19, 2014, 11:34:35 AM »

under Bell Housing
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« Reply #95 on: July 19, 2014, 11:44:02 AM »

Front Rotor.. I thought so... In my notes 142 is Tuesday May 21st 1968. But I wonder what the G1 is?? Just fun to learn ya know..

  I sure wish some of the more knowledgeable guys than me would chime in and tell me if the...Windshield VIN Plate - Hidden VIN Stamp - Block Casting - Block Casting Date - Front Pad Stamps - Trans VIN - Trans Assembly - ALL Rear End stamping - Serial Number Production Dates...Are original for sure, as I am getting nervous. At least tell me if the Cowl Tag and Rivets Look ok... Kurt, Jerry M, Mark, Ed, William, Joe, Paul, Chick, Ted, Pete, Frank, Mike, Dan, Sam, Jim, Harry, Brian, Brendan, Matt, Alan, Andy, Darrell, Cameron, David, Dennis... Wow there is a lot of names, Not even in e's and G's yet.. I better stop. Of course some of these are for fun..  Grin

Jano, I will buy the Lucas 10W/40, Sounds good to me. I was hoping some other guys with close, even closer than yours, would chime in

IIRC... the G1 or G2.. etc..    relates to the production shift..  at least for rear ends and such...?

PS.  your car mechanically appears as 'original' as any I've seen lately..  Just clean.. light oil/lubricate to preserve function and appearance.. Smiley
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« Reply #96 on: July 19, 2014, 12:49:20 PM »

For oil, check out :
http://www.classiccarmotoroil.com

Has the right amount of zinc for flat tappet cams. Cost is $69.50 a case (12 quarts). I picked up a couple of cases while I was in Indiana. I had them send me one case to California ($15 shipping). Even with the shipping cost, it works out to about $7 a quart, and the delivery is quick. You can save on shipping if you are near Indianapolis, just arrange to pick it up... Wink
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
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« Reply #97 on: July 19, 2014, 01:08:15 PM »

Danny....one of the shifter rods has a loose lock nut .  Did you do that?  Also...you showed a ballast resistor...there was no ballast resistor in the '68.  It was a ballast resistor wire.  Thanks for the photos...will keep comparing to my 07C.  Already have noticed something interesting....my engine block and heads have casting dates almost identical to yours but my engine assembly date is 06-19.  Guess they had a stockpile of those dates and were still using them even in June.
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« Reply #98 on: July 19, 2014, 02:49:14 PM »

Honestly I'd just spring the 20 bucks for Jerry's book...sooo much easier to utilize it as reference while recording #'s off your car. Wonderful what you are doing with the pictorial posts here. Can never have here on the site ,IMO.
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« Reply #99 on: July 19, 2014, 03:00:05 PM »

Jerry I did not notice that. I will make a note and when it is up in the air next for Trans service, I will check them all. I was wondering about that resistor, as I have never seen another one on a '68. I thought it dropped the voltage from 12 to 8 volts to save the points?? Or is what I have there for the radio? Again... help me out people...  I read online that there is something about May and June in '68. They have a lot of discrepancies with blocks and other parts. Maybe somebody will chime in, as I forgot what it said. 

 Jano,  I have all of Jerry's books. But as you know, there is a lot of stuff NOT in those books. And it always seem to be the stuff "I" need to know... ha ha 

 Ok, off to install the water pump. Maybe some more pic's first... Danny
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« Reply #100 on: July 19, 2014, 03:04:51 PM »

562 written by hand on the right side fire wall and on the back side of the front valance ?? Anybody know what that is. Could it be the 562 car of that day? I can't find that number anywhere else on the car.. Danny

Also "22" hand written on inside of right front wheel.
  Anybody know what these numbers are?
  
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« Reply #101 on: July 19, 2014, 03:17:31 PM »

Front spring labels
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« Reply #102 on: July 19, 2014, 03:19:49 PM »

Danny...as to the number on the firewall...yes it is a run number.  On my '68, I have the number 22 on the firewall, inside front valence, and on the backside of the spare wheel.  I've seen several early cars that have a ballast resistor....usually added because of a faulty resistor wire.  Might check the wiring from the resistor and see if it goes to the coil.  If it has a standard '68 radio then it should be 12v powered so it wouldn't need a resistor.

Water pump?  Were you recently hunting for a 326 water pump?  Thought I responded to a post on here about someone wanting a 326 pump and we discussed dates.
« Last Edit: July 19, 2014, 03:40:57 PM by 1968 Z28 » Logged

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« Reply #103 on: July 19, 2014, 03:22:22 PM »

Master Cylinder found in trunk
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« Reply #104 on: July 19, 2014, 03:23:46 PM »

Might be interesting to see a complete spring tag.  I think there was a post recently about finding the right spring tag so that a correct repro could be made (might have been on TC site).  Man you have some good original stuff on this car....could be very interesting for an example of the correct restoration.

BTW....that WT stamped master cylinder is the correct one for the 68 Z28.
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« Reply #105 on: July 19, 2014, 03:32:42 PM »

I was actually going to try to get one of those off to preserve it. I have the "BU" sticker from the back right drum. It would be tough to get the spring label as I can't get my hands in there. It was hell just getting the pictures. I am going to send out the front calipers, and the master to be rebuilt but not restored cosmetically. Reinstall those and maybe a few other things.... Danny
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« Reply #106 on: July 19, 2014, 05:27:33 PM »

I was actually going to try to get one of those off to preserve it. I have the "BU" sticker from the back right drum. It would be tough to get the spring label as I can't get my hands in there. It was hell just getting the pictures. I am going to send out the front calipers, and the master to be rebuilt but not restored cosmetically. Reinstall those and maybe a few other things.... Danny

Lonestar ?  nice people.
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« Reply #107 on: July 19, 2014, 06:54:39 PM »

Danny ,check and see if your pass side tail pipe is welded to the muffler ,curious.--steve.


How are your 3 flex lines ? ( front 2 calipers , 1 rear) I'd shelve the OE's and replace. Cool to say they are "original' but pedal stiffness will suffer if they got soft over the years.  Mic your rotors and measure your drums to see if still in spec---repack your inner/outer front bearings. I'd also change the 90 wt in the rear end (add your additive) and the Munci. My front end is still tight, if yours is ,use a high quality grease ( I like red) and pump the old stuff out. Don't forget the steering gear box.

Shelve the belts (or throw the in your trunk for the shows, good conversation stuff) for Dayco cogs. Hoses also for that matter, or at least check at operating temp if they are collapsing. Rubber fuel line back at the tank.

No fuel leaks at the metering blocks ?  While running spray a little WD40 (not a fan of water) around the base plate and monitor RPM to see if it's sucking any air.

All in all these are very simple cars ,a "little love" will go a long way with them. I understand the survivor thing, but if you plan on driving her ,make sure she's sound.--steve
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« Reply #108 on: July 19, 2014, 08:00:57 PM »

Danny, as the oil smells of gas, just wondering if the fuel pump diaphragm might have perished - especially if you've fired the car up recently on modern gas - and could be filling the oil pan. There was a recent thread on TC where a finned valve cover shattered due to a buildup of fuel vapor.......
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« Reply #109 on: July 19, 2014, 09:22:30 PM »

Danny is that a "C "after the P8E29 on the 4 speed? If so wouldn't it be a M-22 trans?

I have been looking at that small c on the Muncies in 68 GM vehicles for about 5-6 years.  It seems to be an inspection mark, but not 100 percent sure on that.

As already mentioned the 3915085 transmission tag is correct for an M21 in 1968 used with 3.55 and lower (but numerically higher) rear axles.  So it is correctly matched with your BU rear.

G1 on your rotors is Detroit Gear and Axle plant, 1st shift.

Some white lithium grease on the shifter is not a problem.

Try to post a picture of the inside of the deck lid in the area right under where that tape is.  I am pretty sure I know why the tape is there. Probably because the emblem was relocated higher up on the deck lid (second set of holes made) so the rear spoiler could be mounted.  Tape kinda helps cover those holes.

I will try to look over all of the pics.  Just quickly went over them for now.

I think I would put on a new fuel pump (but keep the old one).  I agree it may be putting fuel into the crankcase.  

As for oil type and brand, lots of debates on that.  You might consider one of the oils for diesel engines. Use a good Wix or Napa filter.

« Last Edit: July 19, 2014, 09:48:40 PM by bcmiller » Logged

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« Reply #110 on: July 19, 2014, 10:13:52 PM »

NAPA puts their name on Wix--good filters.

Agree totally with replacing the fuel pump and shelving the OE.

Oil....you could send a sample out to Amsoil(there is a kit they send you) and see what it reads. Tells tales of engine wear and what. (Original owner is a regional rep...I still run Lucas LOL !...don't say anything!)  Oil will stink after sitting for how many years in your engine??
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« Reply #111 on: July 19, 2014, 10:53:22 PM »

Danny....would it be possible to show a couple of photos of the PCV valve....curious to see, if it is the original, what it looks like.  Thanks in advance.
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« Reply #112 on: July 20, 2014, 12:49:04 AM »

......... can't type             wiping the drool from my chin.........               wow          you must have been born with a horseshoe up your  (cough)  nose!            Seriously, this is what we all dream of discovering and dragging home. Suhweeeeeet.
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« Reply #113 on: July 20, 2014, 02:07:54 AM »




"As for oil type and brand, lots of debates on that.  You might consider one of the oils for diesel engines. "


[/quote]

Actually there are different detergents in the diesel oil like Delo, or the Shell rotella , that are not helpful for a naturally aspirated motor. They do contain a little bit more zinc, but are counter-productive because of the other additives specific for diesel motors. I have researched this some. The previously mentioned Joe Gibbs oil, I think Royal Purple may make a special high zinc oil, and the classic car oil, would be the best for it. I think you can also use the Lucas break in oil, along with just your typical motor oil as Jano stated as well, and be in good shape.
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
Looking for 3192477 (front) spiral shocks 3192851 (rear) please
Looking for an original LOF soft ray windshield
Looking for original Delco side post negative battery cable part # 6297651AV
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« Reply #114 on: July 20, 2014, 03:08:44 AM »

1:10 am right now... Gotta sleep... I will get to all the questions and more pictures Monday, as it is the girlfriends Birthday Sunday... Actually it is Sunday isn't it... Ok some more pictures real quick...
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« Reply #115 on: July 20, 2014, 03:27:54 AM »

Trunk area, spare, jack etc.  I spent 6 hours detailing the trunk... Danny
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« Reply #116 on: July 20, 2014, 03:31:47 AM »

more trunk...
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« Reply #117 on: July 20, 2014, 03:33:12 AM »

more trunk
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« Reply #118 on: July 20, 2014, 03:35:46 AM »

more trunk...
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« Reply #119 on: July 20, 2014, 03:38:01 AM »

After seeing those CLR pics, I would love to see a couple before and after of your car done, it seems like a great candidate for it. I am happy for you and your girlfriend, hope you guys have a good time on Sunday.
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
Looking for 3192477 (front) spiral shocks 3192851 (rear) please
Looking for an original LOF soft ray windshield
Looking for original Delco side post negative battery cable part # 6297651AV
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« Reply #120 on: July 20, 2014, 03:38:30 AM »

more trunk...
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« Reply #121 on: July 20, 2014, 03:40:55 AM »

couple more trunk, then sleepy time...
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« Reply #122 on: July 20, 2014, 07:36:37 AM »

Your excitement is motivating me to get back to it this fall Smiley
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Charley
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« Reply #123 on: July 20, 2014, 09:23:35 AM »

Great thread. Looks like a great car to learn from. Plenty of pics for everyone to see and refer to in the future.
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« Reply #124 on: July 20, 2014, 12:01:16 PM »

Exhaust...A few pics before I leave for the day... Answer q's later or tom... Danny
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« Reply #125 on: July 20, 2014, 12:03:09 PM »

more exhaust...    Holes patched, Brake Line and Fuel Line replaced after these pics were taken
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« Reply #126 on: July 20, 2014, 12:05:32 PM »

more exhaust...
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« Reply #127 on: July 20, 2014, 12:06:53 PM »

more exhaust...
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« Reply #128 on: July 20, 2014, 12:07:59 PM »

more exhaust...
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« Reply #129 on: July 20, 2014, 12:09:53 PM »

More Exhaust...
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« Reply #130 on: July 20, 2014, 12:11:36 PM »

and still more...
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« Reply #131 on: July 20, 2014, 12:12:48 PM »

last ones... Almost
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« Reply #132 on: July 20, 2014, 12:17:29 PM »

couple more...
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« Reply #133 on: July 20, 2014, 12:19:17 PM »

last ones.. for real this time   Grin
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« Reply #134 on: July 20, 2014, 04:27:28 PM »

Dinner at the "Cheese Cake Factory" in San Francisco postponed for now. Woke up this morning 8am super dizzy and nauseas. Just had some Cheerios and feeling much better. Just faintly dizzy. Going to get some food to go and hang at the girlfriends house tonight. So of course, I had to post some pictures... Danny
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« Reply #135 on: July 20, 2014, 04:32:48 PM »

Drive line markings. Had a hell of a time getting something to show up color wise. Looks like 4 stripes ... Orange - Yellow - Orange - Yellow
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« Reply #136 on: July 20, 2014, 05:17:55 PM »

Interior is very nice... Windows were down for who knows how long. Hours and Hours getting the inside cleaned. Carpet showing wear at drivers feet side and fading throughout. Looks to be all original. Headliner, Door Panels, Dash and all seats nice. Couple small cracks in drivers door handle top pad. No other damage... Danny  
 NOTE; I have detailed pictures of factory carpet cuts under seats if needed.
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« Reply #137 on: July 20, 2014, 05:20:53 PM »

more interior...
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« Reply #138 on: July 20, 2014, 05:23:57 PM »

more interior...
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« Reply #139 on: July 20, 2014, 05:26:55 PM »

more interior...
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« Reply #140 on: July 20, 2014, 05:28:31 PM »

more interior...
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« Reply #141 on: July 20, 2014, 05:29:48 PM »

more interior...
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« Reply #142 on: July 20, 2014, 05:32:13 PM »

more interior...
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« Reply #143 on: July 20, 2014, 05:33:31 PM »

more interior...
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« Reply #144 on: July 20, 2014, 05:34:49 PM »

more interior...
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« Reply #145 on: July 20, 2014, 05:36:02 PM »

more interior...
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« Reply #146 on: July 20, 2014, 05:39:06 PM »

Last interior...
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« Reply #147 on: July 20, 2014, 05:44:17 PM »

Forgot to post these other trunk angles...
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« Reply #148 on: July 21, 2014, 12:39:26 PM »

Original front and rear carpet tags..
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« Reply #149 on: July 21, 2014, 12:40:34 PM »

 Jano - Steve- As you can see the muffler at tailpipe is welded, and I think all the exhaust is original.
   All three of the rubber brake lines are changed. Will do Trans, Rear and Steering box fluid. Steering box is weeping oil, is there a sealer to add for now?? Will mic out the rotors and drums for thickness safety .
  
   Belts and radiator hoses along with heater hoses not original. So changed it all out. Except heater hoses, left those looped for now, until I do the heater core this winter.

   Fuel line back at the tank has been changed along with the clamps. Keep all old stuff...

   Carb not sucking air at base, neither is manifold. Carb just needs work. I put a rag over the carb primaries and the engine dies in a half of second.

   Tim - ZLP - Trying to get the money together for fuel pump, and carb rebuild, that's about 3 or $400 I don't have right now.

   BCMiller - Did you see the extra holes in the deck lid you were talking about? Do you need better closer pictures?

   Jerry G. - Pictures of PCV coming right up. NOTE it is purple, just like the one everybody said was not correct. But maybe not original, I shook it and it is loose, probably going to leave it, or no??

   HOTROD68 - TOO funny, yes I guess that horseshoe jumped up my butt on this one eh? Good times!! I notice you have yourself a nice butternut yellow ride. Give me 40K and you can have mine.. ha ha




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« Reply #150 on: July 21, 2014, 12:47:08 PM »

PCV.. Purple, correct?
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« Reply #151 on: July 21, 2014, 12:47:46 PM »

More PCV...
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« Reply #152 on: July 21, 2014, 01:06:26 PM »

Here it is... My girlfriend dug out some CLR last night at 10pm and said let's try it on your car. Who am I to say no... Here is the results of 5 minutes exposure with full strength CLR on the right, and same with Evaporust on the left. Both scrubbed with major elbow grease for timed amount of exposure time with new scotchbrite pads.. Going to wet some paper towels with evaporust and lay them on the hood and top of car over night. The rest will have to be elbow grease. 
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« Reply #153 on: July 21, 2014, 01:10:00 PM »

More Paint pics..
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« Reply #154 on: July 21, 2014, 01:44:35 PM »

Thanks Danny....excellent photos of the valve.  One more check...does the valve have a number code, maybe like a date code, on it.  I have a couple of later ones that have a two digit code on them.

Again....Thanks
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Jerry G.

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« Reply #155 on: July 21, 2014, 02:12:14 PM »

Here it is... My girlfriend dug out some CLR last night at 10pm and said let's try it on your car. Who am I to say no... Here is the results of 5 minutes exposure with full strength CLR on the right, and same with Evaporust on the left. Both scrubbed with major elbow grease for timed amount of exposure time with new scotchbrite pads.. Going to wet some paper towels with evaporust and lay them on the hood and top of car over night. The rest will have to be elbow grease. 

From the photo, I like what the CLR did to your fender...  I'd use that on all the rusted paint areas..
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« Reply #156 on: July 21, 2014, 04:19:25 PM »

For those that have used Evaporust or CLR, should rags be soaked and left laying on surface for a while? How long? I have a project I need to do this to. I don't want to peal original paint off either.
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« Reply #157 on: July 21, 2014, 07:14:39 PM »

Jerry G. - Info on PCV as follows. This is all the writing on it I could find.
   
        AC spark plug
        type cv-746c
 
 
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« Reply #158 on: July 21, 2014, 07:29:51 PM »

Got it.....thanks a million for your help.
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Jerry G.

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« Reply #159 on: July 21, 2014, 07:34:28 PM »

All 5 Rally Wheels Version 4
All 5 Dated K18   5   3   DF
K = Kelsey Hayes
1 = Chevrolet
8 = Year of manufacturing
5 = Numeric Month of the Year
3 = Numeric Day of the Month
Friday May 3rd 1968

All 4 Center Caps # GW552504     2
                                           X
                                    3925805
All trim Rings = 4 clip attachment, Missing one Trim Ring - Anybody have an extra, take about any condition. Just want a complete set
Tires - Good Year Retreads - Bald
« Last Edit: July 21, 2014, 08:27:53 PM by dannystarr » Logged
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« Reply #160 on: July 21, 2014, 07:36:43 PM »

next wheel ...
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« Reply #161 on: July 21, 2014, 07:37:24 PM »

next wheel ...
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« Reply #162 on: July 21, 2014, 07:38:19 PM »

last wheel ..
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« Reply #163 on: July 21, 2014, 07:39:11 PM »

Example of wheel stamp ... Danny
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« Reply #164 on: July 21, 2014, 07:47:05 PM »

Original Spiral Shocks
 Front Shocks
 Shocks Part # 3192477
 Julian Dated 115   68
 = Wednesday April 24th 1968 

 Rear Shocks
 Part # 3192851
 Julian Dated  128   68
 = Tuesday May 7th 1968

              ... Danny

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« Reply #165 on: July 21, 2014, 08:21:04 PM »

very good stuff,sounds trivial ,but could you shoot a close up of a lug nut ? Need to check the outside , thanks. Seem to think I changed a couple years ago for some reason.
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« Reply #166 on: July 21, 2014, 08:29:22 PM »

Jano,
 Not a problem, going to girlfriends garage tonight to pull the carb for rebuild. I will do it then.....Danny
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« Reply #167 on: July 21, 2014, 08:29:31 PM »

Here's one of my rims Danny...I'll shoot you number's off my Z for comparison if you want, let me know . When you get to your seat belts and carpet let me know--steve.
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« Reply #168 on: July 21, 2014, 08:31:58 PM »

Here is alt brackets with "GT" stamping. Oddly the black bracket is stamped beautiful and deep. The red bracket is only stamped with a "T".    No G, at least any "G" that I could see. Was this common?? ... Danny
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« Reply #169 on: July 21, 2014, 08:36:19 PM »

Red Bracket ... Danny
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« Reply #170 on: July 21, 2014, 08:37:28 PM »

Red Bracket with only a "T"... Danny
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« Reply #171 on: July 21, 2014, 08:38:52 PM »

Was able to get a picture of the lower pulley while changing water pump.   3858533  BJ    GM  or is that a 5 ??  What does the BJ stand for ??... Danny
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« Reply #172 on: July 21, 2014, 08:44:39 PM »

Front of engine while cleaning and changing water pump... Yes, I see the wrong clamps on bypass and heater hose... Danny
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« Reply #173 on: July 21, 2014, 08:46:33 PM »

center of front engine... Danny
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« Reply #174 on: July 21, 2014, 08:50:05 PM »

Body Panel Numbers I have found.

            Misc.. Stamped Body Panel Numbers

                     Hood Left Rear Edge – 20
                                            Fenders – 20
              Header Panel Top of Cowl – 20
                        Left Quarter Panel – H21   
                   Underside of Deck Lid – T20

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« Reply #175 on: July 21, 2014, 11:27:37 PM »

Hi Danny and great find! What a girl friend! Just got back from vacation this morning and thanks for the email and kudos on my build thread, and yes, we now have Camaro relatives, huh! Great pictures and documentation so thank you! On the GT stamp, know I have not observed enough to have any idea if having the T only was common as many things could have been possible but we now know of one, yours. Hard to find examples like this with so much of the original content still there. I would tend to believe the PCV has been changed due to being a later design but maybe an expert will chime in. Again, great 68Z and congratulations.
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69 L34 Rest. Nova Father/Son Car
69 L78 Surv Nova Purch 4/69 31K miles
67 L89 Corv Tribute
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R 68Z build- http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584
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« Reply #176 on: July 22, 2014, 04:11:32 AM »

Jano, Here is a couple shots of the lugnut... Danny
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« Reply #177 on: July 22, 2014, 05:45:49 AM »

thanks , thread one has to check a few times a day....or your missing out Smiley
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« Reply #178 on: July 22, 2014, 07:59:04 AM »

Was able to get a picture of the lower pulley while changing water pump.   3858533  BJ     GM  or is that a 5 ??  What does the BJ stand for ??... Danny
                                                                                                                                    S

I'm not sure what the BJ stands for, but most if not all pulley PN's have a 2 letter code after the PN...
Your crank pulley is correct for your Z28...     .. complete pulley list From the CRG information.... Smiley
http://www.camaros.org/pdf/pulleys-68-2007-02-01.pdf

Z/28 (w/smog)                     Base                  N-40
Crank pulley                     3858533              3858533
Crank pulley extension            N/A                3916385
Water Pump pulley             3770245             3770245
Alternator pulley                 1970831             1970831
Smog Pump pulley              3925522             3925522
Power Steering pulley              N/A                3873847
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60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
90 ZR1 red/red #246, 90 ZR1 white/gray #2466
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« Reply #179 on: July 22, 2014, 08:31:34 AM »

mine Dan
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« Reply #180 on: July 22, 2014, 08:42:29 AM »

CC last 2 digits on pump pulley
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« Reply #181 on: July 22, 2014, 08:50:07 AM »

"BJ" is the identification code of the pulley that was used on the assembly line.  You showed an earlier picture of the real drums that had a "BU" sticker and the front springs had an "EE" sticker.  Same thing.
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« Reply #182 on: July 22, 2014, 10:27:10 AM »

So then the "CC" on the water pump pulley is the same thing, and assembly line ID code... Got it.... Cool, and good to know...Danny
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« Reply #183 on: July 22, 2014, 01:11:00 PM »

Noyenko, I checked the clips you were talking about. I don't know if they are white or started out clear, but here is the run down..
     
   The clip at the alt is white, The next clip at the left side fender is black, the clip at the voltage regulator is white, then the next 3 or 4 clips on the rad support all the way over to near the right inner fender are all black. Hope that helps... Danny
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« Reply #184 on: July 22, 2014, 01:25:51 PM »

I noticed the clutch grabs way at the top, can I adjust that down below? And if so, which way to you screw it, it has been 30 years since I did it on my mustang. Speaking of clutch adjustment, here is the adjustment rod with a code. Is that a "C" or a "O" ??  Also a picture of an inspection mark on the oil pan side, and radiator petcock with handle wings facing the correct direction.. .. Danny
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« Reply #185 on: July 22, 2014, 01:28:58 PM »

Oil pan in very nice condition with some factory paint drips and inspection mark on side... Danny
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« Reply #186 on: July 22, 2014, 01:45:02 PM »

Here is the protection plan booklet info laid out. What are the  2 and the 63  ??...I went online and found sites that mention this could be a combination of options code. Or just 2 separate codes. But nobody could answer for sure.  Is it the am/fm with rear speaker ?? I think the "H" is Holley and so forth. Could someone decode all these numbers for me please.... Danny
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« Reply #187 on: July 22, 2014, 01:55:57 PM »

I noticed the clutch grabs way at the top, can I adjust that down below? And if so, which way to you screw it, it has been 30 years since I did it on my mustang.

Loosen the nut on the rod and then use a wrench to adjust the length.  Less threads showing will give you a lower pedal release point (less engagement).  More will give you a higher pedal release point (more engagement).
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Darrell Cook

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1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
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« Reply #188 on: July 22, 2014, 02:03:23 PM »

E - black interior color

YY - Butternut

VIN

H = Holley

Engine Stamp

Rearend Stamp

The 6 just to the right of the rearend code stands for June of 68

Trans Stamp

2 - (J50)Power Assisted brakes
6 - (U69 & U80) AM&FM push button radio & rear deck speaker
3 - (J52) Disc Brakes (which the J50 was included in 68 &9)


Bowtie = Chevrolet




http://camaros.org/numbers.shtml#POPCodes
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Darrell Cook

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1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
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« Reply #189 on: July 22, 2014, 02:14:00 PM »

Rear end casting number for 12 bolt. Forgot to include it in above section... Danny
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« Reply #190 on: July 22, 2014, 07:23:10 PM »

Darrell, thank you for the decode. I just couldn't figure it out.

 Pic's of Manifold, Fuel Pump
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« Reply #191 on: July 22, 2014, 07:25:14 PM »

manifold...
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« Reply #192 on: July 22, 2014, 07:27:43 PM »

Fuel Pump... What are all those numbers and the little heart?? ... Danny
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« Reply #193 on: July 22, 2014, 07:28:19 PM »

more pump..
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« Reply #194 on: July 22, 2014, 07:29:29 PM »

The number "7' on the bottom with a heart...Is this original and dated correctly for my car?  ??
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« Reply #195 on: July 22, 2014, 07:38:47 PM »

Another view of front pad stamp.. Can somebody PLEASE tell me if all these stamps are original correct GM, including all the previous above. Do all the casting and dates line up correct?.. Danny
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« Reply #196 on: July 22, 2014, 08:18:08 PM »

I can't say for sure on the engine stamp due to the corrosion, but I think it is probably OK.  Transmission and rear axle look good.  I did not look at every other component, but LOTS of original stuff there.
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« Reply #197 on: July 22, 2014, 08:19:38 PM »

Oh and I think the casting dates looked fine too.  You might want to try to summarize them and put them all into one post.
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« Reply #198 on: July 22, 2014, 11:57:57 PM »

Another view of front pad stamp.. Can somebody PLEASE tell me if all these stamps are original correct GM, including all the previous above. Do all the casting and dates line up correct?.. Danny

I think your dates, codes, stamps, etc..  are all outstanding Danny....    That's a VERY original car..    it just needs to be Preserved, and maintained...  and use one of those discussed chemicals to remove the rust spots without removing the remaining paint.. Smiley
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69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
90 ZR1 red/red #246, 90 ZR1 white/gray #2466
72 El Camino, '55 Nomad, '57 Nomad, '57 B/A Sedan
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« Reply #199 on: July 23, 2014, 12:46:05 AM »

Gary, Thanx... I just know this was a big investment for my girl. And I wanna make sure it is all ok. I spent a lot of time getting info before the purchase, but I am no expert, that's for sure.

  Speaking of preserving... Here is a couple more paint work shots. LOT'S of elbow grease. And it is a fine line, you gotta pay attention while scrubbing. Going to use soaked paper towels with evaporust so I don't have to scrub THE WHOLE CAR! Just don't have the strength. Here is the top of the left fender complete and waxed with eagle one..... Danny
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« Reply #200 on: July 23, 2014, 12:47:04 AM »

couple more... What a difference eh...Danny
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« Reply #201 on: July 23, 2014, 01:10:45 AM »

Way cool. If I still lived in the bay area I would put in some time for you there. Take your time and and enjoy it brother... Wink
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
Looking for 3192477 (front) spiral shocks 3192851 (rear) please
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« Reply #202 on: July 23, 2014, 11:08:05 PM »

Thanx, I appreciate that. There is just no way I can do it all by hand. Maybe, but it would take all thru winter.. Sad Sad   And of course I am excited and want it done.
 
   Here below is a picture of the front pad with letters and numbers filled with soap stone to better show if these are original correct GM font and style stampings... Danny
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« Reply #203 on: July 24, 2014, 08:59:26 AM »

That really works to show off the numbers. I know I did something similar a while back with plaster of paris, and that worked well also.
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« Reply #204 on: July 24, 2014, 06:12:07 PM »

Yes Jimmy, this is just soap stone. And then I lightly blow and take my finger and get rid of the excess. Then I edit the picture extensively of course to get that dark surface look. That really makes the numbers stand out.
 OK, I am done for now, no more pictures... Danny
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« Reply #205 on: July 25, 2014, 10:59:39 AM »

Hey, I'm looking for the bolt that holds the choke to the manifold.  Lost mine somewhere in the teardown.  Do you know what size and thread, headmark etc?  The AIM just says production bolt.  Thanks.
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« Reply #206 on: July 25, 2014, 06:39:29 PM »

Wow! Car is looking good! Can't wait to see it when you get finished with the "paint" work. Keep it up  Grin
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« Reply #207 on: July 30, 2014, 01:29:03 AM »

68Zproject... Here it is. But I can't find my pitch reader tools. I bet someone on here or TC will have one for you. Or at least tell ya the size...Hope this helps.. Danny
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« Reply #208 on: July 30, 2014, 01:36:28 AM »

I read somewhere that you HAVE to have something in the top of the smog pump, or it will keep pumping into the manifolds and this is NOT good. Some kind of valve? True? What goes in this hole? Can I buy one? Can I run the engine without the belt attached to the pump? ... Danny
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« Reply #209 on: July 30, 2014, 08:47:57 AM »

68Zproject... Here it is. But I can't find my pitch reader tools. I bet someone on here or TC will have one for you. Or at least tell ya the size...Hope this helps.. Danny
10-24 x 1/4".....read that somewhere, can't remember where.
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« Reply #210 on: July 30, 2014, 09:25:31 AM »

<< I read somewhere that you HAVE to have something in the top of the smog pump, or it will keep pumping into the manifolds and this is NOT good. Some kind of valve? True? What goes in this hole? Can I buy one? Can I run the engine without the belt attached to the pump? ... Danny >>

What goes in that hole is already there - it's a pressed-in pressure relief valve, to protect the pump in the unlikely event that the diverter valve sticks closed. The more common failure mode for the diverter valve is that it sticks open, pumping air into the manifold tubes all the time - that happens when the rubber diaphragm inside the diverter valve fails (and they all do eventually) and the valve then defaults by design to the open position, also causing a vacuum leak through the vacuum signal hose.
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« Reply #211 on: July 30, 2014, 10:40:26 AM »

What's missing is the Black Plastic insert that fits inside the center hole....it ID's the valve pressure setting.  BTW....mine is missing also.....if you find a source let us all know.
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« Reply #212 on: July 30, 2014, 02:11:53 PM »

What's missing is the Black Plastic insert that fits inside the center hole....it ID's the valve pressure setting.  BTW....mine is missing also.....if you find a source let us all know.
Just to make sure you know what I am referring to.....little black thing in middle of valve.

     

     
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« Reply #213 on: July 31, 2014, 12:59:36 AM »

JohnZ,
 Can I pull the belt and run it without? I here guys talk about deveining. I guess that means to pull the guts out of the pump. I would rather not do that. What can I do or not do? Thanx... Danny
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« Reply #214 on: July 31, 2014, 09:23:57 AM »

JohnZ,
 Can I pull the belt and run it without? I here guys talk about deveining. I guess that means to pull the guts out of the pump. I would rather not do that. What can I do or not do? Thanx... Danny

You can run it without the belt if you like.
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« Reply #215 on: July 31, 2014, 01:11:28 PM »

JohnZ sorry to bother ya all the time. But follow-up, so I pull the belt, great, NOW...can I ALSO then pull the vacuum line, or should I leave THAT connected? Will I have a vacuum leak if I leave it? ... Danny
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« Reply #216 on: July 31, 2014, 10:32:07 PM »

I put a BB in my vacuum line....Joe
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« Reply #217 on: August 01, 2014, 12:32:05 AM »

Great car and great pics.
All the #'s look good.
Frame stencil is the date: 5 31 68?
Carb is probably original.
What's the # on the pitman arm?
The two letter codes are the broadcast codes for the part - production shorthand for the part #. DF, MO, etc.
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« Reply #218 on: August 01, 2014, 03:23:51 AM »

Hey Kurt, thank you SO much for checking in... Just wanna make sure things are good. I thought I had the pitman arm pictures in here somewhere but maybe not. Here is what I have in my picture file.
 
 What makes you think the carb is original? Is this the norm being dated 4 months away from most everything else on the car? You got many other documented '68 original cars with this early carb dating?
Danny
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« Reply #219 on: August 01, 2014, 05:39:26 AM »

That doesn't look close to any number I've seen on pitman arms for Z 2/8's..
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« Reply #220 on: August 01, 2014, 12:32:29 PM »

Hey Kurt, thank you SO much for checking in... Just wanna make sure things are good. I thought I had the pitman arm pictures in here somewhere but maybe not. Here is what I have in my picture file.
 
 What makes you think the carb is original? Is this the norm being dated 4 months away from most everything else on the car? You got many other documented '68 original cars with this early carb dating?
Danny

I am not Kurt, but I thought I had posted a while back and said that I thought your carb was probably original but Kurt would have a better idea for sure.  That big of a gap is not the norm, but you have so many other original components it would be hard for me to believe it is not original.  Production on Z28s was ramping around that time the carb was assembled so it could have gotten shuffled back not used right away.

Let me check on the pitman arm.
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« Reply #221 on: August 01, 2014, 12:38:09 PM »

Pitman arm is correct.  Fast ratio manual steering - length is 5.8 inches.  

Lots of good steering information here from David Pozzi's site. 
http://www.pozziracing.com/camaro_steering.htm
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« Reply #222 on: August 01, 2014, 03:06:53 PM »

For reference, my 10B Oct 68 build 69 Z/28 has a carb dated 872. I believe that is 2nd week of July 1968. So carb is 11-12 weeks ahead of assembly.
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« Reply #223 on: August 01, 2014, 07:35:50 PM »

My Z 2/8 pitman arm number - special steering, non-power steering was 3935075A - and as per Pozzi's site it looks like the number pictured is from a 1967 Z 2/8 Pitman Arm.. according to what I read there.
The cast numbers on the original Pitman on my '68 were confirmed as correct by many other Z 2/8 owners on this site that had the same numbers on their cars, when I was trying to ID it and find a replacement a year or more back
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« Reply #224 on: August 01, 2014, 09:34:58 PM »

For reference, my 10B Oct 68 build 69 Z/28 has a carb dated 872. I believe that is 2nd week of July 1968. So carb is 11-12 weeks ahead of assembly.

My mid September '69 Z28 carburetor is a 962..  also approx 12 weeks ahead of car production...
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« Reply #225 on: August 02, 2014, 12:17:45 AM »

I can't confirm the pitman arm, but I think it's correct. The 391 was used on 67 Z's too. I've seen the 075 on non-Z cars.

Where would someone find the correct carb for this, back then, only a couple of months early??
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« Reply #226 on: August 02, 2014, 02:16:59 AM »

Well here is THAT pitman arm # being talked about and offered for sale. All say replacement for 67 and 68 Camaro Z28. Even some of CRG guys old comments. I found it 20 times for sale all over used and new. And all say for Z28...?? Danny

 Re: 67 Z-28 Steering Knuckle Part Number [Re: KNAPPY]
Zedder Offline

Pooh-Bah

   
I see it as 3908391 and the idler is 3908385.

1968RSZ28:
Chris -

Here's the information I have on the subject...

68 CAMARO w/ Spec. Steering (exc. 302, P/S) . . . . . . . . . .  3908389  (forged 3908391)
68 CAMARO w/ P/S, Spec. Steering (exc. 302),
68 CAMARO w/ P/S (302) (exc. Spec. Steering) . . . . . . . . . . 3908379
68 CAMARO (exc. P/S, Spec. Steering) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3917575
68-69 CAMARO w/ P/S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  3935711


Here is one for sale for $375 right now on TC

ORIGINAL GM# 3908391 1967-68 Camaro Z/28 special fast-ratio 5-3/4" manual steering pitman arm. This arm is for manual steering cars.

Degreased and tumbled to a 100% assembly line correct finish. Ready to install.
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« Reply #227 on: August 02, 2014, 02:23:59 AM »

Well I was trying to get the carb tuned and just could not make it happen. So I gave it to a friend for a rebuild. Here is what he found. Apparently this is some kind of flat track power valve mod. You can buy them from Holley, but this one is hand modified and machined. Nice ... If all you want to do is hold the throttle to the floor around a circle track  Angry    P. S. more of those close up pictures ya 'all like. Remember it's not the camera, it's who's behind it that counts.
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« Reply #228 on: August 02, 2014, 07:01:45 AM »

Danny, that is a power valve plug. It is used for competition where WOT is usually the norm. When the plug is used you must richen the mixture several jet sizes to compensate for a lean mixture. You may have to replace jets to return to the correct size. Hope this helps.
Jim

 
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« Reply #229 on: August 02, 2014, 11:45:12 AM »

Jim, yes, that's what I was saying, some old trick for full throttle. I assume it was re-jetted during the rebuild. The guy that built it that's all he did for years is these flat track carbs. Probably over 100 of them. So he MUST know about the jetting. I have only started it for a minute to check for leaks. Front caliper is leaking internally... dang it. I was going to take it for a real drive today. Instead I gotta drive down to San Bruno to Steves Camaro and see if he can warranty this one out... Angry Angry
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« Reply #230 on: August 02, 2014, 12:23:06 PM »

Awesome man. Steve Pardini is a great guy to have on your side. I wish I was in the bay area to pay him a visit. He should take care of you if it was purchased through him.
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
Looking for 3192477 (front) spiral shocks 3192851 (rear) please
Looking for an original LOF soft ray windshield
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« Reply #231 on: August 02, 2014, 11:45:46 PM »

What is the exact date code on the carb?  You said January, but I did not see an actual picture of that or the date code listed.

I will ask Jerry on the pitman arm.
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« Reply #232 on: August 03, 2014, 02:52:37 AM »

Well I headed down to Steve's Camaros today. He warranted the caliper and threw in a set of pads. Yes he is a great guy. He is closed on the weekends, but I called his cell and he opened up for me. Scored some nice original '68 parts. Like an original water pump bypass hose, rigid pump to carb fuel line, and some other misc. goodies. I get to walk all over the place upstairs and down and look for stuff. Found original Corvette trim rings in the box. Original diamond mesh air cleaners in the GM boxes, on and on, just a treasure trove of goodies. Went next door to see his cars. He has an all original Hugger '69 Z/28 that he bought back in the 80's. And a nice original black car '68 Z/28 with Cowl Plenum. Also bought in the 80's for just a few thousand!  Cool Cool  Then he took me to lunch down the street. Good times, nice visit.

 On a bummer note, I went back and installed the Caliper and bled it off. Threw the wheel back on and lowered it down. Installed the new fuel pump I got from Heartbeat city. And fired it up to go for a drive and the carb is messed up. Just a touch of throttle and it just keeps climbing up all by itself like it is being giv'in more throttle. But I just was holding it at like an 1/8th of an inch of throttle from outside. Then it takes a long time for it to come back down. You know, instead of racking it and having it come right back down, it goes up... then takes a long time to come back to idle. What the hell is that? I remember it happening to me in high school, but don't remember what it was. I just wanna go for a real ride, instead of the super scary 2 mile ride home the day I got the car off the truck. Couple close-ups of the bypass hose. Nice and close. Oh, and sounded a little arrogant with my last post about taking pictures. I was just quoting Ansel Adams  Smiley... Danny  
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« Reply #233 on: August 03, 2014, 03:17:29 AM »

bcmiller here is a shot of the carb numbers. And thank you for checking with Jerry on the pitman arm. I have found it several more places since my post, so I am hoping it is fine, and all those one's for sale are correct with there info.... Danny
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« Reply #234 on: August 03, 2014, 08:01:10 AM »

One week off from the one I have.
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« Reply #235 on: August 03, 2014, 08:04:24 AM »

My 02E has that same pitman arm & has a steering gear date of A0328......Joe
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« Reply #236 on: August 03, 2014, 08:19:37 AM »

Assuming no bind in throttle pedal or linkage. Return spring stiff and pulling plates (and keeping) them shut.

You had the carb apart. was it rebuilt ? Metering blocks, base plate, body checked for warping ? ( machinist straight edge)

Pull off the air cleaner, have your girlfriend start the car....you operate the throttle and see what it does. Watch the squirters ,at idle, and see if it's getting a signal to pull fuel. Should not at idle. Different circuit. Check your float level ( fuel should slightly weep out the sight holes) Consider upgrading to Holley Viton needle and seats if they have not been recently replaced. Hard to trouble shoot online,,,,,does the car seem to be running rich at idle, exhaust burning your eyes ?

Holley has a great website, take a look Smiley---steve
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« Reply #237 on: August 03, 2014, 08:32:25 AM »

Danny, you might pull the vacuum advance hose off the distributor to see if the advance plate is sticking. George
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« Reply #238 on: August 03, 2014, 11:46:23 AM »

Danny, you might want to make sure there is no air leaks around the base of the carb and that the base plate did not crack when reinstalled.

TMR,,
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« Reply #239 on: August 03, 2014, 11:57:07 AM »

My friend rebuilt the carb. He did JUST that for years for a living. So I ASSUME he knows what he is doing. That's how we found the wide open flat track plug in above post. I knew it was going to be hard to explain. I was just hoping somebody had that same problem in the past. There is no binding, have double springs... I did notice at one time fuel was trickling in on the left side at an idle. Then I revved it up and that went away. And didn't come back. All I can say is standing next to the car and reaching in and pulling the throttle back JUST A TOUCH... It goes up, but then begins to climb up on it's own. And I am talking 2 or 3 THOUSAND RPM's. Not just a little. Then I pull it back and it takes 5 seconds to go back to an idle. I also noticed that when it comes back, each time I have to adjust the idle screw. Cause it wants to die, OR it is up to high. Never goes back to the nice 900 idle. There is no longer white smoke coming from the exhaust, and the exhaust does not burn when standing in back of car close and bent down.That was fuel dumping in from that plug being installed. Probably didn't have to change the fuel pump, but that's ok, better to start out fresh. Got an all original rebuilt with the embossed AC logo. Advance plate not sticking cause I checked it and it runs back and forth freely. I retightened the carb down delicately with a 1/4 inch drive mini ratchet holding it in the palm of my hand. Making sure not to over tighten. It should be fine and plenty tight enough.

 I think I may have to just get another carb for now. Cause I WANNA drive it. Then send mine out at a later date. There is a Holley 4053, 3923289 brand new in the box online for $640 with free shipping. Is this ok to run and get me down the road for the summer? Not showing the car. Thanx everyone for the help so far.. Here it is... Danny  
  
                                                                                 http://www.ebay.com/itm/330548530059?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
« Last Edit: August 03, 2014, 12:24:53 PM by dannystarr » Logged
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« Reply #240 on: August 03, 2014, 12:46:00 PM »

I am sure your friend knows what he is doing with carbs.

For the symptoms you liist, it sure seems like it is either the carb or something sticking in the distributor.

Personally, I think you can find a nice carb for less than that.
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« Reply #241 on: August 03, 2014, 12:54:27 PM »

I am sure your friend knows what he is doing with carbs.

For the symptoms you liist, it sure seems like it is either the carb or something sticking in the distributor.

Personally, I think you can find a nice carb for less than that.
I think Danny had the original carburetor for his car; just needs to be rebuilt to 'stock form'.. which would be cheaper than $640, OR he could buy a new 3310 for much less than that which would be fine on his engine *to drive*... 

and.. aren't there some folks who can rebuild his original carb for MUCH LESS  ($200?) and do it within a week or two?

Gary
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« Reply #242 on: August 03, 2014, 01:18:04 PM »

I was looking at that carb cause I thought I had to have THAT one. What's a 3310? Will everything line up and all the fuel connections, linkage and vacuum lines connect properly. I DO NOT want to do ANY mods. Just wanna throw it on and go... As far as sending out my original, I honestly don't wanna wait 15 or 20 days to get it back. Danny
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« Reply #243 on: August 03, 2014, 02:10:42 PM »

Good advice from NOYENKO also....if the timing is wandering, or "sticking" at full advance, your engine will  run erratic. Like he posted, very easy to remove from the equation. BTY, CHP was very fair on the price when I had my distributor gone through last year. Plus certification Grin


Heed Gary's advice on carb replacement or rebuild. Food for thought, while your carbs getting refurbished, whatever, you do not need a high dollar carb to feed that 302. Sounds like you are just out to cruise. Don't think any no lift 7800 shifts in your car's future. Check Summit, they carry refurbished Holleys and Edelbrocks. (street avenger ?) You would be surprised the overall performance a 600 Edelbrock does atop that engine...just to tie you over.

Also check out Crane Corvette if you are pretty set on another 780 ,look to have a good rep and descent prices, see what they say.

I cannot see putting out $700 for another carb, when you own the born with...new base plate, metering blocks, neoprene gaskets, blow out protection, needles and seats etc,,would come in half that...







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« Reply #244 on: August 03, 2014, 02:50:08 PM »

Oh-to answer your other question, The mentioned carbs come with necessary vacuum ports. But,,,isolate your problem 1st before throwing $$$ at it.
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« Reply #245 on: August 03, 2014, 03:01:28 PM »

I was looking at that carb cause I thought I had to have THAT one. What's a 3310? Will everything line up and all the fuel connections, linkage and vacuum lines connect properly. I DO NOT want to do ANY mods. Just wanna throw it on and go... As far as sending out my original, I honestly don't wanna wait 15 or 20 days to get it back. Danny

the Holley 3310 is Holley's generic OTC 4150 (780 cfm), and is the carb that is probably only half or more of the Z28 clones, and probably over the years has been on more than half of the real Z28's at one time or another.  I think everything will hook up correctly without any mods Danny..
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« Reply #246 on: August 03, 2014, 04:05:23 PM »

Gary is right.  A good original 3310 or 3310-1 will work fine and is 780 cfm (2 metering blocks).  I believe the later versiions (3310-2, 3310-3 etc) are rated at 750 cfm but they will work fine too.

For your needs you just need something 750 cfm or so that is a vacuum secondary carb.  

BUT, I would just try to get what you currently have working.  What did he do when he rebuilt your carb?  Standard rebuild?  Did it run OK on another engine?
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« Reply #247 on: August 03, 2014, 06:45:31 PM »

Not trying to make you run in circles, but take a good look at the distributor weights. With the carb modification he may have put light springs and heavy weights in there. It was a common thing to do.
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« Reply #248 on: August 03, 2014, 10:17:24 PM »

As far as sending out my original, I honestly don't wanna wait 15 or 20 days to get it back. Danny

Don't be so anxious. Just wait a little and have your original rebuilt. I think you'll be happier in the end. Check with Jerry MacNeish.
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« Reply #249 on: August 04, 2014, 02:21:27 AM »

MO,
 I here ya, but I can't help it. I wanna drive it. I have spent SO much time with everything I need a payoff. And my health isn't the best. It's SO close now.

 So my girlfriend ordered the NEW Holley 0-4053 3923289 today. I will make payments to her when I get caught up. It will be here Wed. morning. I needed something anyway. Now I can send mine out at my leisure and have no down time. 3 days is better than 3 weeks.  Grin
Jerry should be heading back from Reno, as he is up there for the Barrett Jackson Hot August nights. Maybe I can connect with him soon.
 
 I disconnected the vacuum line from the smog pump and plugged it, no change. I did the same with the dist. line, no change. It still does the same thing. The rebuild guy is coming over tom at 10am to check it out. We will see what he can find. Plus I wanna learn after the diagnoses. I had 2 springs on the return and thought maybe that was causing it to pull to the side hard and bind. Like the old Auto Lite Carbs would do. So I pulled the extra one and left the original, no change. It's gotta be inside the carb. When you turn the idle adjust screw just a little to much, it climbs up to 2 or 3 thousand RPMs by itself. Something's gotta be wrong. Stay tuned ... Danny
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« Reply #250 on: August 04, 2014, 06:08:48 PM »

Well the carb rebuild guy just left. He checked it with a Vacuum gauge and sent me down to get 2.5 power valves instead of the 6.5 that are in there. So I don't know what that means, but hopefully it will work, I gotta pull the carb AGAIN, and get everything over to him. Then he said he would help me tune it and dial it in after reinstall. Stay tuned... No pun intended  Grin   ... Danny
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« Reply #251 on: August 04, 2014, 07:45:46 PM »

Did you happen to see what kind of vacuum your engine was pulling at idle? You typically size a power valve at 1/2 your engine vacuum at idle. With a 6.5 valve your pulling around 13" of vacuum at an idle. So with a 2.5 you would only be around 5" of vacuum at idle. At light cruising and idle, the power valve is closed because your vacuum is above the power valve rating. It doesn't open until WOT or when your vacuum drops below the valves rating and then allows fuel to flow through the power valve channel restrictor enriching your fuel mixture. They are basically a vacuum operated on and off switch for fuel. So with a 2.5" valve its not going to open until you drop below 2.5" of vacuum. Remember, an engine makes its most vacuum at idle and at WOT throttle its least amount of vacuum.
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« Reply #252 on: August 04, 2014, 09:26:31 PM »

Going by memory but I think the 6.5 power valve is correct for that carb.  Not sure why he would want to make the changes he told you.

It is not easy to diagnose a problem like this remotely, but I suspect a vacuum leak somewhere.  Possibly where the intake seals onto the heads or block. 

Did you check for a vacuum leak?
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« Reply #253 on: August 06, 2014, 02:07:23 AM »

Well I have to say I did look for a vacuum leak, but couldn't find any. Here is what the gasket looked like when I pulled the carb today. Is this ok? I don't remember any bleed thru like this before. I am not sure why he wanted to put the 2.5's in... I didn't see the vacuum gauge, I think he said 4.5. I just want it right or close to it for the money I spent on the rebuild. If it doesn't work when I get it back tom, going to cut my loses for now and just install the new carb. I wanna go to some car shows in the coming days and weeks. Danny
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« Reply #254 on: August 06, 2014, 07:31:59 AM »

not related to the carb problem but another thing to check on unrestored cars........

the distributor mechanical advance has a rubber bump stop that can dry out and crumble off leaving
a smaller diameter steel pin. This can change your timing and advance by a large amount

many people installed aftermarket advance kits that came with weights, springs, and a bronze bushing, so if your car has that it should
be OK but if it still has the rubber bushing you may want to check it.

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« Reply #255 on: August 07, 2014, 02:09:55 PM »

I think I might have figured out my problem. The only thing I have not done is adjust the vales. Valves out of adjustment? Would that cause the 4.5 Vacuum reading instead of 12 or 14? Going to plug the vacuum line for the brake booster. Maybe it's leaking inside the cannister?.. Danny
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« Reply #256 on: August 07, 2014, 02:30:12 PM »

Yes it can.
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« Reply #257 on: August 07, 2014, 05:52:46 PM »

I don't know if the valves being off would cause that issue or not.  I am not saying it would or it wouldn't.  But I think they would have to be off quite a bit to cause that problem.

How did you check for vacuum leaks? 

The old school way to check for vacuum leaks it to use an unlit propane torch or carb cleaner.  But this can be dangerous.  I am not telling you to do this.  But if you want to know, here is how it is done.  Again, if you do this, be CAREFUL.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/maintenance/how-to-find-a-vacuum-leak-2

I prefer the torch method, outside of course.

If all the vacuum hoses are original, it might be a good idea to just go ahead replace them.  Of course keep the originals.

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« Reply #258 on: August 08, 2014, 02:06:32 AM »

Well the new carb came. I installed it and heated the engine up to operating temp. I think I may have had/have 2 issues. Cause after I set the Fuel/air mixture with the vacuum gauge the vacuum went up to 12 to 14. However it still wants to climb up by itself at an idle with very little throttle. You give it a little and it winds up by itself. Takes the vacuum gauge down to zero, then races up to 45. I pulled the booster hose and plugged the manifold port and it made no diff. So canister in booster is not leaking. I took it for a ride and it actually runs good, pulls like hell. But I have to leave it in gear and apply the brake to help bring down the idle. Once it is down at the stop sign, it is fine. And off ya go, come to another stop sign and it rides back up. Temp at top of radiator hose near thermostat neck read 164. Temp at bottom rad hose near water pump neck read 172. This is after a 5 mile drive. There is SO many things it could be. The throttle spring is pulling ALL the way back.
#1 - Valve overlap
#2 - Gases passing by the rings
#3 - Sticky Valve
#4 - Burned valve
#5 - Poorly seated valves
#6 - Valve guides worn
#7 - Weak valve spring
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« Reply #259 on: August 08, 2014, 02:07:19 AM »

#8 - Late valve timing or manifold leak
#9 - Spark plug gap
#10 - Faulty points
#11 - Ignition retarded
#12 - Manifold leaking.. I sprayed carb cleaner all around it the best I could and I could not detect any rpm changes.
#13 - Partially clogged exhaust
It's endless... Danny
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« Reply #260 on: August 08, 2014, 03:05:12 AM »

start with the easy/cheap stuff like spark plug gap, points, condenser ( you want to probably put new ones of those anyways) and then go from there. I purchased an older car about a year ago and had similar issues with vacuum. (Did a Compression test, and it was fine). It was not one single issue, but every time I replaced a part, say points for instance it ran better. I replaced the plugs, better still. Carb gasket, a bit better. I was an eagle eye with that vacuum gauge, some small piece would bump up my vacuum, and/or make it run that much smoother. I think the car hadn't run in years. While it was frustrating not having the easy fix, it was a fun journey seeing it come alive more and more with each small fix. Good luck, and keep us posted.. Smiley
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« Reply #261 on: August 08, 2014, 08:35:45 AM »

Outside a general tune up ,which is always a plus ,heed the advise from some previous posts and focus on your distributor. Sounds like it may be staying at full advance. Do you own a hand vacuum pump ? (Miti-Vac ?)


1. Disconnect your vacuum line ,plug source, and hook up pump to your distributor.
2. start engine, obtain initial timing.
3.Give a few pumps to full advance. 3 gr. on TAC ? Engine will speed up (good old timing tape on the harmonic balancer a plus here ! Mr Gasket--cheap)You can obtain a reading to see where you are at for full advance. A must to properly set up your curve. ***see weights/springs (previous post)
4. Release pressure on the pump ,does your engine idle back down ?

Something also to be said for adjustable timing lights here.

As far as checking for vacuum leaks: plain old spray bottle with water. I fight fires for a living.

Any issues with your distributor ,just send it out... labor was very fair ,goes through the tumbler ,set up on the good old SUN machine.
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« Reply #262 on: August 08, 2014, 09:12:25 AM »

If the cam is a wild grind and vacuum is low, try cracking secondary throttle plates open a little. This is done by removing carb, flipping over and a small screw on bottom by plate on pass side below Vac. diaphram. this allows a little more air flow and allows primary plates to be closed more. If primary plates are opened too far, it uncovers idle bleeds causing poor or no idle circuit to work.
I'd also go back to checking with timing light to see if advance weights are opening too soon as mentioned in earlier post (too lighty spring). If vacuum guage is steady, not ticking back and forth, this would rule out valve train IE sticking valve,burnt, spring broken etc...Exhaust clogged is checked by holding at, say 3000rpm with Vac guage and see if it starts to drop after a minute or two. My 2 cents.
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« Reply #263 on: August 08, 2014, 10:08:30 AM »

Ko-lek-tor is correct, check Holley Tech, actually a gap measurement posted. I do not know it off hand.  If he's got the old 30-30 in it ,it's choppy but not overly aggressive. Brakes were fine without an added vacuum reserve tank. Plus the tuning specs for that Z motor has long been in print

Not saying to go do it, but I ran a far more radical cam and had the best luck drilling a small hole in each of the primary throttle plates....per Holley. Never could adjust them open enough to not take out the idle circuit. World of difference. Experimented with accelerator pump cams. (duration) Ended up with a surprisingly crisp ,off idle set up. Must for the street. This was on a 850 double pump.


If I was a betting man, I'd say his problems are in the 46 yo. distributor ....certainly was not a mistake having that old carb gone through also.

Be patient Danny ,your not going to jump in a TEN year old car ,not knowing maintenance history, and honestly expect to have no issues. Also consider it presents as having little attention over the years. All in all ,relatively minor issues, as to be expected with theses old rides...half the fun of owning one.
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« Reply #264 on: August 08, 2014, 10:55:11 AM »

Not the same thing, but years ago I had an erratic/idle vacuum issue with my 302 and spent a lot of time playing with the carburetor until I finally check out the engine's compression and spark plugs. What I really had was ring failure in one cylinder, and needed a rebuild. Might want to verify that your engine's compression is good? How do the plugs looks?
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« Reply #265 on: August 08, 2014, 10:56:14 AM »

One thing that you may want to double check is that all of the intake bolts are tight.  Do not over tighten them or break them off - but make sure they are good and snug.  Can't tell you how many times that has been an issue on engines I have worked on.
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« Reply #266 on: August 08, 2014, 11:39:29 AM »

First things first.  Lets not make this anymore complicated than it needs to be and get back to the basics.

Place your hand & or rag over the opening of the carb while it is idling.  Does it idle up or load up and die?


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« Reply #267 on: August 10, 2014, 01:28:08 AM »

Well I will get to my latest news when I get a chance, and thanx to all for the help thus far, will need more help I am sure.
 Thought I would share a few more pictures. Smog hose clamps, Pump pulley.
 

     And these stampings on the front of each head. Anybody know what they mean? Looks like on the right is a "6", and on the left is a "0" ... Danny
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« Reply #268 on: August 10, 2014, 01:29:26 AM »

more
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« Reply #269 on: August 10, 2014, 01:29:52 AM »

more
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« Reply #270 on: August 10, 2014, 01:30:51 AM »

more
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« Reply #271 on: August 10, 2014, 01:34:40 AM »

Right head front stamp
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« Reply #272 on: August 10, 2014, 01:35:14 AM »

left head front stamp, maybe a "C", or an incomplete zero? ... Danny
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« Reply #273 on: August 10, 2014, 12:18:09 PM »

Danny, what part of the head are you finding those stamps? (the '0' and the '6')??   Can you take another photo or two with a wider field to show where they are?
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« Reply #274 on: August 10, 2014, 08:13:20 PM »

more
Interesting pulley!   Everyone says that the Z28 should have a deep groove pulley (#3925522) on the smog pump and most of them do.  My 06-19 engine did not have the deep groove pulley....it had the standard groove pulley (#3927116) just like your showing on your engine.  I have never been able to find out exactly why that happened.  Kurt, the site coordinator,  said that he has seen this happen before but he didn't know why either.  So, to be correct, I finally found an original #3925522 pulley and purchased it.  If you are interested, there is one currently listed on eBay for a fairly decent price.   Here is the link.....http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-1968-72-BIG-BLOCK-CHEVY-bbc-CORVETTE-427-454-SMOG-PUMP-PULLEY-3925522-/271538620175?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f38f6870f&vxp=mtr

BTW....my original heads also have that single digit number on the ends.  Own mine, it is stamped so light that it is hard to make out....so I can't tell exactly what it is.
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« Reply #275 on: August 10, 2014, 09:18:21 PM »

Thanks for posting that Jerry.

Yes that smog pulley is interesting.  So we know of at least two cars now that had it.  Hmmmm....

BTW, Jerry have you ever seen any late 68 Z28 engines that used the 186 heads rather than the 291s?
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« Reply #276 on: August 11, 2014, 01:20:19 AM »

Ok, let me try to answer some questions

 I sprayed carb cleaner around the base of the intake. I really couldn't tell if there was a rise in the idle. I remember doing that years ago and having the idle increase. Didn't happen, if it did it was so subtle. Will try water...

 I already had tightened the intake bolts a few days ago. The middle 4 were some what loose. And turned 3/4 of a turn easily. Rest were tight and didn't budge.

 I have that miti-vac hand pump. I used it to help bleed the brakes. I will try the distributor advance. But I think patience is more in order and I am going to send it to JM. I just found out that the 532 point plate is NOT in the dist. I thought I was told it was, my fault. So def. need to have it put back stock. Anybody have an extra point plate before I send it away??

 Motor never apart as far as I can tell. Should still have the 30/30 Duntov. So no crazy grind.

 I have not pulled the plugs in a while. I am going to install another set in the coming days.

 Compression was a LITTLE all over the map from 155 to 180. Only ONE cylinder had 180, rest were 172 etc. etc.

 Will do the clean rag over carb trick again. Last time I did it when all this first started, as I mentioned in a previous post, it died with-in a half to one second! Just RIGHT NOW died. Witch led me to believe there was no Vac leak.

 Didn't know about the smog pump pulley thing. I sure can't spend $400 on a pulley. I would bet my left testy that this is the one that was on the car when it left the factory. 56 thousand original miles, who would pull it and change it, and why?

Gary - Here is the pictures showing location of front head stamps. I shot the pic's starting from a ways back and then closer.

 Also the left shock tower cap still in place. Checked the tapper etc. against Chick's close-up posted picture of his original and an aftermarket. Look like mine is original.

Right side front - head stamp
    Danny
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« Reply #277 on: August 11, 2014, 01:21:06 AM »

Left Side front head stamp
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« Reply #278 on: August 11, 2014, 01:22:41 AM »

Left side shock tower cap in trunk..
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« Reply #279 on: August 11, 2014, 10:46:20 PM »

not related to the carb problem but another thing to check on unrestored cars........

the distributor mechanical advance has a rubber bump stop that can dry out and crumble off leaving
a smaller diameter steel pin. This can change your timing and advance by a large amount

many people installed aftermarket advance kits that came with weights, springs, and a bronze bushing, so if your car has that it should
be OK but if it still has the rubber bushing you may want to check it.

I just happened to buy a February '68 issue of Super Street Cars magazine at the swap meet over the weekend and it had an article in it called " How to rework your distributor for max performance ". It has some good tips and it also has a good pic of the rubber piece that Joe was talking about.







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« Reply #280 on: August 17, 2014, 02:29:01 AM »

Hey Jon, thanx very much for that info. It's a lot to take in, especially for a backyard mechanic such as myself. Seen that rubber piece you were talking about, pretty cool. I never knew it was there until I heard it mentioned in one of the replies.

Going to adjust the Valves Sunday. Then pull the Distributor and send off for rebuild. Wish I could also send the Alternator, Master Cylinder, Calipers and a few other goodies.... But that takes $$$  Sad   Then will change the oil and the spark plugs again. When Dist. comes back I can drop it back in and start my trouble shooting issue back up.

 In the mean time, found this tag on the car. It was stuck on and seems original. Can you guess where on the car it was located???... Danny
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« Reply #281 on: August 17, 2014, 08:06:37 AM »

You probably already know ,just a reminder. When you pull your distributor make sure #1 cylinder on TDC: I/E rockers should be "loose" as both valves are closed, pull your dist cap, rotor should be pointing to, or real close to #1 cylinder. Dis connect your battery Cheesy This way everything will already be set for you when you are ready to reinstall.


If you do roll the engine over, or already pulled it...the above is what you want to check  before installation.

"putting it in the way it came out" works....if no crank rotation and you know rotor alignment. I've always taken the few minutes to align as above ,and never installed one 180 out.--steve
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« Reply #282 on: August 17, 2014, 12:02:05 PM »

Hey Jon, thanx very much for that info. It's a lot to take in, especially for a backyard mechanic such as myself. Seen that rubber piece you were talking about, pretty cool. I never knew it was there until I heard it mentioned in one of the replies.

Going to adjust the Valves Sunday. Then pull the Distributor and send off for rebuild. Wish I could also send the Alternator, Master Cylinder, Calipers and a few other goodies.... But that takes $$$  Sad   Then will change the oil and the spark plugs again. When Dist. comes back I can drop it back in and start my trouble shooting issue back up.

 In the mean time, found this tag on the car. It was stuck on and seems original. Can you guess where on the car it was located???... Danny
Forward lamp harness.
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« Reply #283 on: August 17, 2014, 06:51:44 PM »

Jano,
 No I didn't know that. I remember some of that info from years past, but thanx much for reminder.
 
 90 degrees out here in Northern CA and too hot right now to fire it and heat it up for valve adjustment. So gonna wait for 74  degree day. Or there about...

 As for the 5054 tag, we have a winner!! Pictures below show the tag in place.
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« Reply #284 on: August 17, 2014, 06:55:01 PM »

Again
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« Reply #285 on: August 17, 2014, 06:56:16 PM »

Here is the tag stretched out. Made of what looks to be thin clear plastic. Glad it wasn't paper, cause that would have been gone.  Danny
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« Reply #286 on: August 17, 2014, 10:59:14 PM »

Danny, Just read thru your 68 Z find.  Sweeeeeeet deal !  Butternut, very cool... awesome job !
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« Reply #287 on: August 20, 2014, 08:35:25 PM »

69 Zee,
 Thanx man.. You can have it for 40K!!.... As you know it is SO much fun. I really like searching out numbers, as I am an original numbers matching guy. I am not a hot rod guy, or a rat rod guy. I appreciate the talent. But I don't want a John Deere Tractor part in my interior.
 Funny I just finished reading your score... Super cool... a little more work than mine, but you will love it. If you start to get stressed, walk away and come back another day. Good luck... Danny

  
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« Reply #288 on: August 20, 2014, 08:47:01 PM »

YEA!!! JUST scored a 3959 "326" Water Pump for the Z/28. Wow these babies are scarce and pricey for sure... Contacted Bill Mock and he got right back to me the next day. Bought a fully rebuilt ready to mount dated E 3 8 with the 1/2" FIP hole in the top. My engine assembly is 5 23 8. So 20 days prior. Now almost everything is matched from top to bottom except hoses, belts, battery and cables, tune-up items and tires.... Danny 
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« Reply #289 on: August 20, 2014, 09:00:43 PM »

You had good luck on your water pump....quick results.  I was looking for three years on eBay and finally found one this year for my car.  Scored one that was in excellent condition and only needed a rebuild.  My pump had a cast date of E-1-8 which closely matched the casting dates on my block and heads but my engine build date was 6-19. 
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« Reply #290 on: August 21, 2014, 01:06:04 PM »

Hey,
 Yes I did get lucky. I have heard all the horror stories. Sucker cost me ALOT!! But Mr. Bill Mock has been doing this for corvette and Camaro guys since 1978. He has about 425 pumps. And keeps a rebuilt of each style and month ready to go. So he called me the very next morning and it will be here in a few days... Danny
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« Reply #291 on: August 21, 2014, 01:21:42 PM »

HELP.. I pulled my distributor cap last night and wanted to rotate the engine to number one, get it ready for the dist. to drop back in. Brought it to TDC and the rotor was facing right at the center of the right hood hinge. So I thought, well, I need to go around, so I went around again and the rotor ended up right in the corner of left inner fender and cowl. What's the deal, what am I doing wrong? Is it because I needed to only go 180 degrees instead of a full 360? I pulled it out and will worry about it later. The rubber advance limiter bumper was gone! Just as you guys said it probably was. The shaft is very tight in it's hole with no movement side to side. BUT the shaft moves up and down 3/8th's of an inch or more.. Yikes!! The 532 point plate WAS there after all. Previous owner said it might have been changed. So that's a plus. Taking it to a speed shop in San Fran for a set-up. Hoping to have the Master, Dist., Alt all rebuilt internally ONLY. No outside restoration. That way I can keep the survivor visual. Then along with the new WP, throw it all back on in a month or two and see what I got... Danny

   P.S.
 Which way do I turn the center crank pulley bolt for removal. Is it standard thread? The old righty tighty, lefty lucy?
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1968RSZ28
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« Reply #292 on: August 21, 2014, 02:32:51 PM »

Which way do I turn the center crank pulley bolt for removal. Is it standard thread? The old righty tighty, lefty lucy?

Correct.  And it's "righty tighty lefty loosy", Ricky!

Paul
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6667ss138
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« Reply #293 on: August 21, 2014, 02:50:57 PM »

Paul, you crack me up  Cheesy
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« Reply #294 on: August 21, 2014, 02:54:51 PM »

Lefty "loosey"

Not going to write a lot about it because it may only confuse you.

How are you checking TDC ? Both valves (I/E) closed? While you are into it.....pick up some Miister Gasket timing tape for your balancer...trust me on this. Also ,I believe John Z has an article on finding if your "pointer" (on timing cover) is off in relation to the line on your balancer. You may find it to be a few degrees off.

May be as simple as when they,at one time,pulled the distributor they just set it back in the easiest way it would drop in.And rerouted the plug wires to compensate on the cap.

Also when you put it back in,give the gear up a good coating of assembly lube.

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TRLAND
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« Reply #295 on: August 21, 2014, 04:51:51 PM »

Also ,I believe John Z has an article on finding if your "pointer" (on timing cover) is off in relation to the line on your balancer. You may find it to be a few degrees off.

May be as simple as when they,at one time,pulled the distributor they just set it back in the easiest way it would drop in.And rerouted the plug wires to compensate on the cap.

Lars Grimsrud also has some short reference papers on checking your balancer marks, finding TDC, and installing a distributor so it is in the correct factory position.
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Mike in Northern Illinois
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« Reply #296 on: August 21, 2014, 05:00:16 PM »

HELP.. I pulled my distributor cap last night and wanted to rotate the engine to number one, get it ready for the dist. to drop back in. Brought it to TDC and the rotor was facing right at the center of the right hood hinge. So I thought, well, I need to go around, so I went around again and the rotor ended up right in the corner of left inner fender and cowl. What's the deal, what am I doing wrong? Is it because I needed to only go 180 degrees instead of a full 360? I pulled it out and will worry about it later. The rubber advance limiter bumper was gone! Just as you guys said it probably was. The shaft is very tight in it's hole with no movement side to side. BUT the shaft moves up and down 3/8th's of an inch or more.. Yikes!! The 532 point plate WAS there after all. Previous owner said it might have been changed. So that's a plus. Taking it to a speed shop in San Fran for a set-up. Hoping to have the Master, Dist., Alt all rebuilt internally ONLY. No outside restoration. That way I can keep the survivor visual. Then along with the new WP, throw it all back on in a month or two and see what I got... Danny

   P.S.
 Which way do I turn the center crank pulley bolt for removal. Is it standard thread? The old righty tighty, lefty lucy?

Danny, sometimes when dropping the distributor back in the hole the oil pump shaft needs to be aligned so it drops in correctly.  Check the bottom of the distributor on how you want to align it and see how the gear will match the oil pump shafts slot. Many times a long screwdriver is needed for slight adjustments for alignment and full drop in. Not sure what you have but that might be the issue.
Love that butternut 68 Z/28.....
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Chick
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« Reply #297 on: August 21, 2014, 07:34:25 PM »

Also ,I believe John Z has an article on finding if your "pointer" (on timing cover) is off in relation to the line on your balancer. You may find it to be a few degrees off.

May be as simple as when they,at one time,pulled the distributor they just set it back in the easiest way it would drop in.And rerouted the plug wires to compensate on the cap.

Lars Grimsrud also has some short reference papers on checking your balancer marks, finding TDC, and installing a distributor so it is in the correct factory position.

Would be good reading. Forgot to mention the shaft, Chick caught it. Turns very easy.

Just post when you get ready to install it--steve
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dannystarr
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« Reply #298 on: August 22, 2014, 02:32:21 AM »

Too Funny, of course it's not a woman's name. Guess I was tired. I got some splaining to do...

I was checking TDC by lining the line in the balancer with the "0" mark on the timing cover. Isn't that it? I remember taking a long screwdriver and moving the oil pump shaft to line up for dist. drop in many years ago.

I dropped off my dist. for rebuild, and the guy wants to re-curve it. For better off line power. Should I say yes? Does it work well? Does it ruin the value of the unit?... Danny

 
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JoeC
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« Reply #299 on: August 22, 2014, 06:40:59 AM »

I had a feeling the rubber bumper would be gone

ask the speed shop what he wants to do before he does it

be sure to get all your original parts back from the speed shop

he may change the springs and weights and add the brass stop

you don't need to install the timming tape on the balancer , you can just mark the balancer at 38 degrees or whatever you want to set your total timming at
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TODD
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« Reply #300 on: August 22, 2014, 07:11:16 AM »

Danny;
Nice butternut 68 Z/28...
Yes you want a re-curve, so do that he should know 302 curves.
My curve is 1100 to all in at 2800 rpm. He should be limiting the slot for 12 degrees at the distributor or 24 degrees mechanical advance.
You want something along those lines.
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NoYenko
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« Reply #301 on: August 22, 2014, 07:14:19 AM »

Danny what others have mentioned is get your #1 piston at TDC, checked thru spark plug hole, then verify timing pointer and balancer mark is at TDC. The balancers have been known to slip. When reinstalling a original distributor on an original manifold the factory stamped a chisel mark on the back after they adjusted it. I have allways found the timing to be within 2-3 degrees of the recommended setting. George
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ko-lek-tor
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« Reply #302 on: August 22, 2014, 07:33:21 AM »



I was checking TDC by lining the line in the balancer with the "0" mark on the timing cover. Isn't that it? Danny

 

Danny, The advice given to checking TDC referred to checking TRUE TDC as the mark on timing cover may be off for various reasons. True TDC is checked with a dial indicator. The indicator plunger is set on the top surface of #1 piston at or near the top of the bore. rotate (slowly) until highest reading on guage is determined. Stop at this point and then you can see if the line on the balancer lines up with T.cover. There is a positive stop method also that involves some calculations to arrive at TDC.(gets a little wordy to explain). Can True TDC be determined without pulling the head?  Yes. You will need a long plunger to reach through spark plug hole. I have also taken spring off intake valve (make sure piston is close to TDC so valve does not fall down in cyl.). Gentley tap on top of stem to seat valve on piston (in case of carbon fluff) and set indicator plunger on top of valve stem. I am not too fond of unseating keepers and prefer the s. p. hole method. The positive stop is similar and involves inserting something in s.p. hole that prevents piston from reaching TDC. The crank is turned both directions and noted where the engine stops (locks up due to interference). If degree wheel or timing tape is not available, merely use the straight top edge of timing tab and make a line across balancer in each direction. determine mid-point between these 2 lines and mark it. Line it up with top edge you used to make other 2 marks and compare balancer TDC mark with t. tab mark. Make adjustments to insure TDC marks line up as needed but do not move crank position. This may involve bumping timing tab side to side with a small Ford tool (hammer) or repainting a correct line (thin and accurate please). If all else fails...fly me out there and in 15 minutes we will be done.
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« Reply #303 on: August 22, 2014, 10:55:42 AM »

 WELL... I think I am going to buy a dial indicator. Be nice to have, and seems the correct way. In high school I stuck a stick down there and slowly turned the crank until I though it pushed out the farthest. TOO funny!
 Then I will take my dremel tool and make a baby line nice and clean and straight.
 
 I like the idea of the tape so I can mark it all the way around in several places. But what is the best advance for regular street driving. 32, 35, 36, 38??? I keep getting different numbers suggested.
   
 So ok, I will have the distributor re-curved. He has done 302 units before. Did my friends 302 unit and he says it runs great. And to save all old parts.
 Having the alternator rebuilt at the same place. Internally only. So as to keep the survivor visual.
 Appreciate it guys. Will update soon hopefully... Danny
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69Z28-RS
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« Reply #304 on: August 22, 2014, 01:44:12 PM »

...  in a previous post....   it was written....

"This may involve bumping timing tab side to side with a small Ford tool (hammer)..."..

Bentley..  you are cracking me up!!         Smiley
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
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« Reply #305 on: August 22, 2014, 03:09:43 PM »

Danny....not distributor related but could you take a few photos of the front spoiler.  Always looking for an original 1st, design spoiler.  Hard to find photos of them....most have been replaced by the larger service replacement.  Thanks in advance for your trouble.
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« Reply #306 on: August 22, 2014, 03:24:48 PM »

I know you guys have nice tools but I have used this method for years and it works. Remove # 1 plug. Stick your finger in the hole and have someone bump the engine. When the compression blows past your finger line up the rotor with # 1 wire on the cap. set the vac advance midway travel and fire it up. Then adjust timing. Try it, it works.
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