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Author Topic: intake  (Read 619 times)
68Zproject
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« on: June 07, 2014, 06:08:26 PM »

Also before I put my intake on it has been recommended to put a little silicone around the water jackets. I am using Felpro print-o-seal gaskets with the blue trim around the ports on a black gasket.  It has some of the blue around the water jackets as well.  Is it still ok to put some silicone around the water jackets on this gasket?
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68Z28
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« Reply #1 on: June 07, 2014, 06:12:05 PM »

It's not needed with the rings but it won't hurt either.
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
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janobyte
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« Reply #2 on: June 07, 2014, 06:43:27 PM »

Just don't gob it on.

You'll also want a small dab in the corners where the ones from the sides (on the heads) meet the front/rear ones on the block.
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68Zproject
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« Reply #3 on: June 07, 2014, 08:05:11 PM »

Yea I'm torn on using the cork end gaskets or just laying down a whole bead of silicone.  The last time I did this engine I used the rubber end gaskets with a little silicone and when I took off the intake for this recent event, they were all twisted and shredded.
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68Z28
ko-lek-tor
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« Reply #4 on: June 07, 2014, 08:11:27 PM »

I like the cork, but have not had a problem with the rubber. The secret is to put a real thin amount of sealer. Any more will cause the seals to push out or get distorted. A real thin amount on each side with a gob on the 4 corners or dab, I should say, like Jano says too.
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Putting you First...Keeps me First. Talent on loan from God. Helping the hobbyist and exposing the fraud
1969 SS/RS 396 coupe Hugger Orange X22 712 bought in 79
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1969 307 4spd. coupe Daytona Yellow 711 bought in 85
hotrod68
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« Reply #5 on: June 08, 2014, 01:29:54 AM »

  I always put sealer around the water passages, and a thin dab at the bottom of the intake ports just to make sure they won't suck any oil from the lifter valley. I've been using just silicone on the rails for years. It doesn't push out and once set, doesn't blow out or leak. I like Permatex Ultra Black. My 2 cents and good luck!
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HotRod'68  1968 SS350 coupe undergoing frame-off resto/rod. 386/350/4.11s
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ban617
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« Reply #6 on: June 09, 2014, 04:16:39 AM »

 No end gaskets for me just silicone and be done
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janobyte
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« Reply #7 on: June 09, 2014, 06:21:54 AM »

I've had good luck with all of the above, all good advice.  It's boils down to proper tightening sequence on the intake bolts + torque/ "feel"....not so much a fan of cork on intakes. With the newer 1 piece oil pan gaskets ,and impregnated valve cover gaskets, cork is history for me. Permatex Black, good stuff.
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68Zproject
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« Reply #8 on: June 09, 2014, 12:36:27 PM »

I used the permatex oil resistant gasket maker.  I only put it on the head side of the gaskets as the blue ring was on the intake side only.  I decide to use just the permatex on the ends too.
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68Z28
Kelley W King
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« Reply #9 on: June 09, 2014, 02:49:30 PM »

After leaking cork and plastic I went silicon on the ends. They sell orange and silver to match your block or aluminum intake. If you want to look factory and don,t know you parts history just dry set the intake and use a feeler guage to check clearances. I someone milled your heads or cylinder surfaces when you tighten the intake it might squeeze the end gaskets out due to no clearance.
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JohnZ
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« Reply #10 on: June 10, 2014, 10:23:54 AM »

You may find this article useful:

http://www.camaros.org/pdf/intake_swap.pdf
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'69 Z/28
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68Zproject
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« Reply #11 on: June 10, 2014, 04:58:51 PM »

Great article John.  I didn't used the sealer on the bolts so I will go back and take them out one by one.  I have to take 4 of them out anyway as I didn't install the alternator mount and need to repaint the wire stands.  I have Teflon sealant I used for the head bolts, is that OK?
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68Z28
JohnZ
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« Reply #12 on: June 11, 2014, 09:50:12 AM »

Great article John.  I have Teflon sealant I used for the head bolts, is that OK?

There are a number of products that work on the head bolts - I'm old-school, and prefer non-hardening Permatex #2. Others prefer ARP thread sealant, etc.
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'69 Z/28
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69Z28
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« Reply #13 on: June 11, 2014, 02:43:52 PM »

I always used the cork gaskets with the 3M yellow glue along with some 3M silicone sealer that I got when I worked on C5's in the Air Force. I spread the glue on the bulkhead rails and on one side of the cork gasket and let it skin and then set the cork gasket on once it got real tacky . Would let that firm up for a while before installing the intake. Used the same 3M glue on the water jackets and the gasket engine side and let that tack up too. A few hours later I would do the intake side of the gaskets and the intake surface with the same 3M yellow glue and let it skin until it was tacky, added a little of the 3M silicone sealer at the intake, head, and bulkhead rail corners and carefully set the intake on and tighten it up per my Motors Manual. Worked great and never leaked. A friend turned me onto the the Permatex Ultra Black in 83 and use it exclusively now. No cork or rubber on the bulkhead rails. Cleans up really nice once cinched down. I go back with a single edge razor blade and shave off the excess once it's cured. Looks decent.      
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GaryC

'UNRESTORED' 1969 Cortez Silver X33D80 Z28
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