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Author Topic: valve adj  (Read 1274 times)
68Zproject
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« on: June 07, 2014, 04:05:32 PM »

Just got most of my engine put back together and before I put the intake on I want to adjust valves.  I don't have the 30-30, I have a Comp xs282s.  When I degree'd the cam I noticed that the lifter stayed at 0 lift for quite a while.  Can I adjust the valve clearance at any point on this 0 lift?  Also clearance is listed as .016.  I assume this is hot.  If it is, what do I set it to for now?
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68Z28
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« Reply #1 on: June 07, 2014, 04:39:41 PM »

TDC and run through the valve order like any other solid cam ( #1 E I should be closed and sloppy rocker arms ) Quick search will give you the order, than rotate 180 degrees. I've used Mac Quick sticks for years ( Google them)

Set at .016 ( manufactures recommendation I'm assuming) little drag on the feeler gauge, that will get you fired up for break in, check again after the cam broken in ( follow procedure ,important) you will be fine.

The procedure listed in here for the 30-30 is great, same one we use on the race motor running a hydo roller,yep,  it's profile requires a little slop in the valve train per the engine builder.


Your running nothing radical, modern profile, traditional procedure.
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68Zproject
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« Reply #2 on: June 07, 2014, 05:26:45 PM »

I get nothing on the mac stick except all sorts of Apple stuff.  The cam was already broken in, I had a few thousand on the engine when I had to do the tear-down.  I found this one.  I assume that will work?

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=4268.0
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68Z28
cook_dw
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« Reply #3 on: June 07, 2014, 05:42:49 PM »

I have always used the EOIC.

Exhaust valve begins to Open adjust the intake.

Intake valve begins to Close adjust the exhaust.

Yes the 0.016" is hot..  Add 0.002" for thermal expansion.


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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
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cook_dw
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« Reply #4 on: June 07, 2014, 05:49:17 PM »

Sorry I started my post a hour ago and got side tracked.  Your thread you posted is basically the same as my post.
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
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68Zproject
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« Reply #5 on: June 07, 2014, 06:05:07 PM »

So .018?
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68Z28
janobyte
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« Reply #6 on: June 07, 2014, 06:36:55 PM »

yea,listen to Cook.

 The Quick Sticks laid down on the heads with cut outs for the push rods and referenced each cylinder with both valves closed. I tried looking them up, may not make them anymore. Angry
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cook_dw
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« Reply #7 on: June 07, 2014, 06:44:54 PM »

So .018?

Yes. That way when it is hot it'll be 0.016"
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
ko-lek-tor
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« Reply #8 on: June 07, 2014, 07:33:20 PM »

I am sure there will be someone who does not approve of how I do valves, but here goes: First, a four stroke engine makes 2 complete revolutions of the crank or 2 x 360 degrees = 720. Divide by the # of cylinders (8 in this case)  = 90 and that tells you every 90 degrees is top center on a compression stroke (both valves closed) for a cylinder. Mark your balancer every 90 degeres (4 marks counting TDC). Start with TDC on #1 cylinder, adjust clearance for both valves. Crank engine clockwise (looking from front of car) with socket to next mark (90 deg)(easier if plugs are out) do next cyl. in firing order  (8 in this case). and so forth till all 8 are done. 18436572 is firing order with odd #s on LH, drivers side bank, even on RH. This ain't brain surgery and exact TDC for each cylinder is not critical (I just like to be exact when I do it), but you can use a remote starter and bump it around if you have a good R. Starter that can let you do small bumps. If you miss one, just do the next one in order and come back to the one you missed on the next revolution x 2. When you are at TDC for ea. cyl. after setting lash each rocker will have a little, but not excessive play which will be the lash setting of course. But just grab each rocker and double check and by feel , you'll know it is pretty much right.
« Last Edit: June 07, 2014, 08:45:47 PM by ko-lek-tor » Logged

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« Reply #9 on: June 09, 2014, 04:21:05 AM »

 .016 is that a hyd cam ? I would say .02 tighter cause when it warms up the lash will get looser.
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cook_dw
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« Reply #10 on: June 09, 2014, 07:00:58 AM »

Solid lifter.


I would say .02 tighter cause when it warms up the lash will get looser.

What happens to steel when it is heated?

It expands.  Which will close the gap.  So if the cam card calls for 0.016" hot then you add 0.002" to that number for a cold setting.  Set the lash to 0.018".......


Aluminum heads are a different story.  You would subtract 0.006" on the hot lash spec.  If its an aluminum block & heads you would subtract 0.012"
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
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1968 Matador Red Z28
68Zproject
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« Reply #11 on: June 09, 2014, 12:32:19 PM »

Thanks guys, got em all to .018.  When  I get it running, I'm going to let it go for 20 min or so and then do them again hot and I should be set for a while.
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68Z28
cook_dw
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« Reply #12 on: June 09, 2014, 02:42:49 PM »

I always do the break-in and then upon shut off adjust the valves again and drain the oil.  That is a pretty good little cam you used.  What is your complete setup?  Do you plan to put it on a dyno?
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
janobyte
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« Reply #13 on: June 09, 2014, 06:59:36 PM »

I read the specs, agree. DWC usually beats me to the punch.
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cook_dw
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« Reply #14 on: June 09, 2014, 07:41:03 PM »

Smiley
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
68Zproject
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« Reply #15 on: June 10, 2014, 05:27:47 PM »

Stock 302 other than the cam, lifters and rockers.  I have roller tipped 1.52's.  That thing really went a lot better than the engine I had with the LT1 cam.  In fact when I got the heads, they were supposed to have had the intake unshrouded as they were 1.94's, but I noticed it hadn't been done so I had it done when I got the heads fixed. The heads were also ported.  3.73 rear and m21.  No dyno in the budget.
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68Z28
ko-lek-tor
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« Reply #16 on: June 10, 2014, 06:59:40 PM »

You may want more gear or an M20, IMO.
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1969 SS/RS 396 coupe Hugger Orange X22 712 bought in 79
1969 SS 350 coupe LeMans Blue 713 bought in 79
1969 307 4spd. coupe Daytona Yellow 711 bought in 85
69Z28
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« Reply #17 on: June 11, 2014, 03:07:23 PM »

I have to agree with Bentley on the M20. Works great with 3.73's and 4.10's in first gear. Don't seem to have that kind of lag the M21 has in first gear. 2nd thru 4th should be the same IIRC. For the my car launched pretty well with the 4.10's, kind of like a punch in the face. With the 3.73's now back in it's much less of a shock on launch. Much smoother.       
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GaryC

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hotrod68
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« Reply #18 on: June 11, 2014, 08:58:58 PM »

  For anyone reading who has a hydraulic cam, I have a foolproof method of adjusting juice lifters. Use the sequence as suggested above by cook. To adjust the valves, back off of the rocker arm until you can spin the pushrod between your fingertips. Then slowly tighten the nut down until the pushrod stops rotating. Turn the nut EXACTLY one-eighth of a turn and your hydraulic lifter is set. Do not go 1/4-turn. I've found that with a performance or even stock cam, this sets the lifter preload perfectly. Hope this helps someone.
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HotRod'68  1968 SS350 coupe undergoing frame-off resto/rod. 386/350/4.11s
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Mike S
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« Reply #19 on: June 11, 2014, 09:18:02 PM »

 For anyone reading who has a hydraulic cam, I have a foolproof method of adjusting juice lifters. Use the sequence as suggested above by cook. To adjust the valves, back off of the rocker arm until you can spin the pushrod between your fingertips. Then slowly tighten the nut down until the pushrod stops rotating. Turn the nut EXACTLY one-eighth of a turn and your hydraulic lifter is set. Do not go 1/4-turn. I've found that with a performance or even stock cam, this sets the lifter preload perfectly. Hope this helps someone.
Lots of room for hydraulic installs....
Every BB hydraulic cam I put in I did the following:

Coat base with moly-lube and install lifters  (Soak in oil over night but do not pre-pump prior to installing)
Rotate engine to get the lifter on the lobe bottom
Turn the rocker arm adjusting nut until the lifter plunger moves about 1/16" down from the plunger retainer

At this point you can fire up the motor and usually do not have to adjust them afterwards.

Mike
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hotrod68
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« Reply #20 on: June 11, 2014, 11:54:43 PM »

  Mike............that 1/8 turn roughly equals 1/16". And yes....once you fire it up they don't need adjusting again. It sets the lifter plunger just right to eliminate pump-up when you spin the engine up.
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HotRod'68  1968 SS350 coupe undergoing frame-off resto/rod. 386/350/4.11s
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68Zproject
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« Reply #21 on: July 04, 2014, 11:05:06 AM »

Just a follow up.  Got the car running yesterday ( after a whole day of cursing as my Pertronix distributor seemed to be the reason it didn't start) and when I went to adjust the valves when hot, they were right on at about .016.  I lashed them cold at .018.  Some had to be tweaked a hair tighter or looser, but the cold .018 was pretty close.  Thanks all who contributed.  It's great to be on the road again.
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68Z28
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