Author Topic: Original versus New Sheet Metal  (Read 1039 times)

upscope757

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Original versus New Sheet Metal
« on: May 10, 2014, 10:49:08 AM »
All,

I am looking for some thoughts on the lengths I should go to save the original sheet metal. I don't have a numbers matching car, but do have a correctly coded SS350 for what would have come with the car. I have all original sheet metal at the moment (but did pick up a new SS hood as the first one was really damaged badly). Both front fenders and the driver side door have a fair amout body work that would need to be done as with the front valance.

How much should I fight to save the original sheet metal versus just buying new? Where do folks recommend for quality/fit if I do go with new?

Thanks,
Matt
Matt: 1967 RS/SS - L48/Powerglide - Sierra Fawn/Beige Vinyl Top, Charleston, SC

Sauron327

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Re: Original versus New Sheet Metal
« Reply #1 on: May 10, 2014, 12:17:10 PM »
Without a visual I cannot tell what a fair amount of work is. Your repro SS hood's crown will require work to fit the fenders, and its front detail may not look like a GM hood. The notch at the rear corners will also not be the same, if it has one at all. The sides may not be straight and mods may be required for gap consistency. I strongly suggest reparing salvageable original panels or replacing with GM assembly line take offs. If you search diligently you will find them.

NOS fenders are not always that great, especially late stampings. I recently installed a late stamped pair and each required a day to correct problems. The repro Goodmark RS valance supplied with the last car was tossed in favor of a GM used one that needed some work. Most Goodmark panels are garbage. If you need repro quarters buy AMD.

firstgenaddict

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Re: Original versus New Sheet Metal
« Reply #2 on: May 10, 2014, 01:43:00 PM »
X2 on assembly line panels...
If the shop you are talking to doesn't have expertise in classic car sheetmetal panels ie. reproduction vs original, break lines, gaps etc then you are either going to have to take the time to teach them (I would only recommend this option if the body panel guy seemed eager to understand or learn) or find a different shop.
James
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upscope757

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Re: Original versus New Sheet Metal
« Reply #3 on: May 11, 2014, 01:42:12 PM »
Thanks a million. I will get some pictures here soon.

AMD? Revealing ignorance here I realize.... American... something or other...?
Matt: 1967 RS/SS - L48/Powerglide - Sierra Fawn/Beige Vinyl Top, Charleston, SC

6667ss138

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« Last Edit: May 11, 2014, 02:17:43 PM by 6667ss138 »
Len H.  Kansas
1969 Z/28 07A X77D80 Hugger Orange/Black Vinyl Top, born with drive train, complete 3 owner history.
1967 Chevelle SS396 138 Convertible/Red/Black int.
1966 Chevelle SS396 138 4sp California/Smog/Black/Red int. POP, born with drive train, original CA black plates

Stingr69

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Re: Original versus New Sheet Metal
« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2014, 03:48:36 PM »
If you are not sure if you want to fix the original panel - FIX IT. 

Repro will take longer and look worse in the end to the experienced eye.  Some cars are worth NOS and some are arguably not.  Buy the best metal you can afford or are willing to pay from my experience.

-Mark.