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| | |-+  has anyone run Sealed Power/Fed. Mogul/Speed Pro camshafts?
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Author Topic: has anyone run Sealed Power/Fed. Mogul/Speed Pro camshafts?  (Read 768 times)
ko-lek-tor
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« on: April 14, 2014, 10:16:32 AM »

I have a new SpeedPro LS6, L72, L78 replacement cam that I planned on using in my build. With so much posted (on other sites) about problems with newer cams, I thought I would get some opinions before installing. I have heard a lot of  newer cams have hardness issues and inferior metal today. A lot of castings made in China, etc...Just don't want to put "junk" together. Thanks CRG.
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Putting you First...Keeps me First. Talent on loan from God. Helping the hobbyist and exposing the fraud
1969 SS/RS 396 coupe Hugger Orange X22 712 bought in 79
1969 SS 350 coupe LeMans Blue 713 bought in 79
1969 307 4spd. coupe Daytona Yellow 711 bought in 85
janobyte
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« Reply #1 on: April 14, 2014, 11:42:19 AM »

Email the tech folks at Lunati. Tell them what your building, heads your using ,any mods ,rear gear ,car weight  , desired power range, etc...they will come up with a grind # and related p/n 's for your combination.

Yes ,began reading tech articles some years ago about popular names on inferior products.
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elcamino72
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« Reply #2 on: April 15, 2014, 07:27:47 AM »

I have used Sealed Power/Fed. Mogul/Speed Pro camshafts in the past without issues.  This is a very common camshaft brand for stock replacement and rebuilds.

With respect to quality control, I was told about 10 years ago that there were only 1-2 camshaft makers in the world and that all of the cam grinders got their blanks from the same basic maker.  This however seemed to coincide with the reduction in zinc in the oils.  Who knows what the problems was, but the solution now seems to be more diligence and attention at the break-in and the use of appropriate oil/additive. 

In conclusion, I do not know it is so much who grinds the cam, I believe that it is more the grind itself. 
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JohnZ
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« Reply #3 on: April 16, 2014, 10:19:15 AM »

The Federal-Mogul/Speed-Pro/Sealed Power cams are EXACT blueprint duplicates of the GM originals, without any "improvements" that close the intake valve earlier; I've used several of their blueprint "097" Duntov and "30-30" cams with no issues.
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'69 Z/28
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ko-lek-tor
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« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2014, 01:37:56 PM »

Thanks guys. The part # CS165R is a exact replacement according to SpeedPro and as John Z points out.  I am very leery of anything made anymore with so much said about quality issues. I thought this cam would be OK, then had doubts and wondered if I should get something else. The engine shop, Cropper Racing Engines in Flemingsburg, Ky. did the machining and assembly work.
They have a good reputation and do a lot of serious round track work. The owner said he would have done it different and said I would not be happy with my engine since I did not lower compression and go with a "newer" up to date grind. I explained that if I wanted something different than stock, I would have built something with more cubes, but I wanted to have a stocker like just out of the factory and I would deal with the compression and other restraints this build has. He said it will not run unless I use 103 octane racing gas. I have read other posts that guys have mixed 1/4 103 with 3/4 93 pump gas. Any suggestions? Would you run cam straight up or retarded or advanced? I planned on straight up.
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Putting you First...Keeps me First. Talent on loan from God. Helping the hobbyist and exposing the fraud
1969 SS/RS 396 coupe Hugger Orange X22 712 bought in 79
1969 SS 350 coupe LeMans Blue 713 bought in 79
1969 307 4spd. coupe Daytona Yellow 711 bought in 85
janobyte
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« Reply #5 on: April 16, 2014, 06:06:53 PM »

Can't go wrong with a shop who has a good rep with the circle track guys "supers"

Unless you are looking for a little more bottom end ,personally I'd stick to 0 on the cam.

Are your heads set up to run unleaded ?

I ran low lead 110 in the 12.5:1 engine I had in it, would run on any lower + pre ignition.  I bought it in 55 gallon drums ( cheaper than the track)

.
Now..the 302 at 11:1 liked race fuel, but would behave on high octane pump gas---I like the smell of race fuel, and that's what it's getting when it's back on the road. I'm not commuting with the car.

Someone already posted in another thread about mixing to a point were you have no pre-ignition...good advice. I imagine 50/50 would give you : (110+98)/2 for your average on octane.

What ever you do ,I don't think I'd tune the car to try to make it run on cheaper fuel, tune for performance and match the fuel accordingly $$$---that's why they are called toys. Grin
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ko-lek-tor
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« Reply #6 on: April 16, 2014, 08:22:34 PM »

Are heads set up for unleaded? If you mean with hardened seats, Yes.
Cropper sells racing fuel by the drum
I will experiment with fuel mixtures, but have no intention of de-tuneing Wink
Here is a link to Cropper's : https://www.facebook.com/pages/Cropper-Racing-Engines/178083025573562
Replies on FB site reference to a guy named Weasel. I worked with him-Weasel Rhoades
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Putting you First...Keeps me First. Talent on loan from God. Helping the hobbyist and exposing the fraud
1969 SS/RS 396 coupe Hugger Orange X22 712 bought in 79
1969 SS 350 coupe LeMans Blue 713 bought in 79
1969 307 4spd. coupe Daytona Yellow 711 bought in 85
68Zproject
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« Reply #7 on: April 17, 2014, 10:29:27 AM »

I thought Johnz said we didn't need hardened seats and Jerry said not to do them?  I don't have them on my Z and during my current tear down there was nothing wrong with either my valves or seats.
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68Z28
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« Reply #8 on: April 17, 2014, 11:09:55 AM »

Are heads set up for unleaded? If you mean with hardened seats, Yes.
Cropper sells racing fuel by the drum
I will experiment with fuel mixtures, but have no intention of de-tuneing Wink
Here is a link to Cropper's : https://www.facebook.com/pages/Cropper-Racing-Engines/178083025573562
Replies on FB site reference to a guy named Weasel. I worked with him-Weasel Rhoades

Just remember when running higher octane like 108, 110 or 112 or higher you will need to add a few degrees of timing to allow for a better burn of the fuel along with running a hotter plug.  Example:  If the cam calls out for 6 degrees and your total is 34; go up to 36 or so and see how the plug looks.  Im sure you already know this but just felt like chiming in.   Tongue

I usually run 110 and 92 or 3 ethanol free 50-50 and run a few degrees more timing.  But I run a slightly colder plug too. Still experimenting due to very little run time which might change over the weekend..
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
janobyte
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« Reply #9 on: April 17, 2014, 01:40:05 PM »

Haven't seen you post for a while Darrell ,always welcome your " 2 cents "  Smiley

Remember Turbo Blue ?  20 years ago a station used to carry it in town...and 2 on the way to the track.
It will be happy days for him when he's down to reading plugs for heat range selection.Pretty sure somewhere
buried in the posts are factory recomendations for a base line.Colder plugs for towing.(racing) Don't know what year they stopped , but it was listed in the owners's manual. 64 I know for certain.

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cook_dw
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« Reply #10 on: April 17, 2014, 02:03:44 PM »

Haven't seen you post for a while Darrell ,always welcome your " 2 cents "  Smiley

Remember Turbo Blue ?  20 years ago a station used to carry it in town...and 2 on the way to the track.
It will be happy days for him when he's down to reading plugs for heat range selection.Pretty sure somewhere
buried in the posts are factory recomendations for a base line.Colder plugs for towing.(racing) Don't know what year they stopped , but it was listed in the owners's manual. 64 I know for certain.



Thanks.  Ive been a little busy with work and trying to finish up the 67.  The most fun you can have is reading plugs and deciding what timing to run and adjusting jetting the carb.  Good times (racing).  Turbo Blue..  Havent heard that in a while.  I run Renegade Pro-110
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
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