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Author Topic: FIA homologation : 1st gen Camaro in Trans-Am and International racing 1968-72  (Read 4645 times)
eb911
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« Reply #30 on: May 19, 2014, 02:11:44 AM »

A promised, here are few pictures of my car.
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Jon Mello
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« Reply #31 on: May 19, 2014, 02:23:36 PM »

Nice looking machine. Thanks for posting the pictures.

I don't know any ex-members of the Wiggins Teape race team but I will ask a friend of mine if he might know.
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Jon Mello
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OG69Z
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« Reply #32 on: May 19, 2014, 07:50:59 PM »

Eric, your car is looking terrific. Have you had a chance to do some heavy shake down runs with it yet? What did you end up doing with the oiling system?
Keep up the good work!
Looking forward to some photos of the engine bay and interior.
Robert
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Jon Mello
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« Reply #33 on: May 19, 2014, 08:36:57 PM »

Looking at the hood, I have a question. The hood pins are in an unusual location and appear to be behind the radiator core support. Any particular reason for doing this rather than mounting them to the core support itself?
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Jon Mello
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« Reply #34 on: May 19, 2014, 10:19:29 PM »

Nice looking car!!
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eb911
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« Reply #35 on: May 20, 2014, 01:10:39 AM »

Yes I have done some shakedown runs. The engine is superb, handling far better than I expected but braking is awful. I will switch to Wilwood racing pads and go through the caliper pistons seals and hopefully it will get better.

As for the hood pins, I don't know, it was done like that and I did not change it.
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Jon Mello
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« Reply #36 on: May 20, 2014, 08:37:14 AM »

You are using the Corvette calipers? If so, do you know if they are fitted with the heat insulators on the pistons?
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Jon Mello
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eb911
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« Reply #37 on: May 20, 2014, 08:40:21 AM »

Yes Delco Moraine Corvette calipers. Don't know if they are fitted with heat insulator. How could I tell ?
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Jon Mello
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« Reply #38 on: May 20, 2014, 08:55:20 AM »

The J56 HD brake piston will have a dark colored insulator with a phillips head screw in the center whereas the stock piston is all metal and has no screw on the face of it.
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Jon Mello
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« Reply #39 on: May 20, 2014, 09:26:08 AM »

I don't have personal experience yet with the factory phenolic insulators in the corvette calipers. I have been told from a couple brake specialists that the insulators will not hold up well with the newer extreme compound brake pads. I understand a bullet proof solution are some pricey Titanium pistons that will do the trick.
Jon, do you know what most of the fellows are using in the Historic group?
Thanks,
Robert
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Jon Mello
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« Reply #40 on: May 20, 2014, 09:52:04 AM »

I know for sure that the reproduction heat insulators available through Lonestar Calipers will not hold up. They basically turn to dust and don't appear to be the correct material. The original GM pieces will hold up (yes, I know people in HTA using them with success) but they can be difficult to find.
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Jon Mello
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« Reply #41 on: May 20, 2014, 10:04:16 AM »

Thanks Jon,  It sounds like most everything else we deal with, OEM is the safe way to go.

Eric, what are your braking symptoms? A couple more questions. Are you running brake cooling ducting? And lastly, power brakes or manual?
Robert
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eb911
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« Reply #42 on: May 20, 2014, 10:42:06 AM »

Thanks Jon.

Robert, the symptoms are as follows : No power on first brake, then the car slows down but don't really stop. On the test track we tested the car I went off the track several time at the end of the straight even when braking very early. We know the brake pads we first found are crap (don't want to mention the brand but they are made in UK). We will switch to Wilwood race pads that seems satisfactory to the Corvette guys we met here in Europe.  What's more my mechanics has spotted a leakage on one caliper, hence the need to go through the seals (I have ordered the O ring conversion and rebuild kit from Css).

As for the brake cooling ducting we have had no time to build and put them bit this is the plan, at least for the front. No power brake system.
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OG69Z
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« Reply #43 on: May 20, 2014, 09:04:28 PM »

Eric, when you say no power on first brake, are you getting a soft pedal, or do you imply the pads have to warm up before grabbing? If you are getting a soft pedal, you may be experiencing some "pad knock back", likely on the rear axle, but also possible on the front if the wheel bearings are set a bit loose. The quick fix in use is to pump the pedal slightly before use and see if that helps. I have found it to be a rigorous endeavor to set the rear axle end play at a minimal amount as GM specifies. (one good reason for full floater conversions)  If indeed you are experiencing the pad knock back, have your mechanic check the axle end play to see where you are at.
Are you using the 1inch bore master cylinder?
Robert
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eb911
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« Reply #44 on: May 21, 2014, 01:33:23 AM »

Yes the pedal is soft, no need to warm up the pads, things remain the same when hot. Will pass to my mechanics your advice on the rear axle. Thank you.

I use the 1 inch master cylinder.
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