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Author Topic: Stainless Chambered exhaust  (Read 3397 times)
69Z28
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« on: February 06, 2014, 11:14:23 PM »

Any of you fellas follow the stainless chambered exhaust that was on ebay? I can't believe it but I put my bid in just for $hits and giggles and ended up winning. Go figure. I didn't think I would have won this by any means. Surprised the heck out of me. What do ya think, did I do good? or no.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Camaro-Chambered-Exhaust-Stainless-Steel-302-Motor-Z-28-Stock-Ext-Manifold-/131106564635?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&nma=true&si=%252FsT4d81BUNcBGvA3JUfxL3FLvgQ%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
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GaryC

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« Reply #1 on: February 06, 2014, 11:21:25 PM »

The price is good, if that is what you wanted..   but I personally don't like the *sound* of any stainless steel exhaust system; being stainless, they go 'thinner' on all the metail, and I suspect that's why SS always sounds so 'tinny'....??   and John Z says chambered costs you 7 hp over the standard transverse muffler exhaust (I suspect that number is versus std w/o resonators??)..
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« Reply #2 on: February 06, 2014, 11:40:57 PM »

Well I have it now. I didn't think I would have won the auction but there ya go. I'll give it a shot. I'm not going to let 7 horses make me loose any sleep. I still have the transvers exhaust on it now if I get tired of it.
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GaryC

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« Reply #3 on: February 07, 2014, 02:15:39 AM »

I am in So cal and had the auction on my watch list just to see what it would go for. I think you bought it at a good price if thats what you wanted. Its to early a set up for my car, and I was also aware of the 7-10 hp loss. I have the transverse set up right now, (without resonators) and I like it. I just need to get my tail pipes at the right angle, they are to much of a angle and sit to low right now. I forgot what month was your car produced?
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« Reply #4 on: February 07, 2014, 04:43:56 AM »

So if you 'lost' around 7hp with a chambered exhaust and stock exhaust manifolds, would you expect to regain those 7hp with chambered exhaust and long tube headers?
Also, would imagine that in reality, there could be at least a 7hp variance between 2 otherwise identical (drivetrain) cars off the factory assembly line.
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« Reply #5 on: February 07, 2014, 08:56:40 AM »

So if you 'lost' around 7hp with a chambered exhaust and stock exhaust manifolds, would you expect to regain those 7hp with chambered exhaust and long tube headers?
Also, would imagine that in reality, there could be at least a 7hp variance between 2 otherwise identical (drivetrain) cars off the factory assembly line.

Ding ding ding!!

With my experience of putting countless late model LT & LS cars on a chassis dyno  some cars put down a few extra ponies than another.  Same setup put it boils down to tolerance stackup.  You have mins & maxs and it you have the incorrect balance then you will have the lower output rate.  Same can be said about the opposite.  The fact is you are not going to feel 7 or 10 or even 15hp by the ole "buttometer"..  Even the calibrated ones.. Grin  If you are not competitively racing then its all about sound.  If you like the sound of chambered then install it.  If not then sell it.
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Darrell Cook

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« Reply #6 on: February 07, 2014, 11:07:12 AM »

So if you 'lost' around 7hp with a chambered exhaust and stock exhaust manifolds, would you expect to regain those 7hp with chambered exhaust and long tube headers?
Also, would imagine that in reality, there could be at least a 7hp variance between 2 otherwise identical (drivetrain) cars off the factory assembly line.

Ding ding ding!!

With my experience of putting countless late model LT & LS cars on a chassis dyno  some cars put down a few extra ponies than another.  Same setup put it boils down to tolerance stackup.  You have mins & maxs and it you have the incorrect balance then you will have the lower output rate.  Same can be said about the opposite.  The fact is you are not going to feel 7 or 10 or even 15hp by the ole "buttometer"..  Even the calibrated ones.. Grin  If you are not competitively racing then its all about sound.  If you like the sound of chambered then install it.  If not then sell it.


I have to agree with Darrell. If you can really feel that much of a horsepower difference then you ARE good, no question about it...I certainly can't. My car is an 06A so it shouldn't have chambered exhaust, but there isn't anything saying I can't use it. I've read a lot about others using the system and of course I am curious too, so I said why not. The price at 3 bills for a stainless system was a no brainer and if I got outbid, oh well, but in this case I didn't and I think I really got a good deal. Heck if it turns out I don't like it, I can sell it for 3 bills and not loose a thing. Actually I'll have to get the proper hangers to add to the price but that's all. In 74 there was a guy from Salisbury Maryland that was on base, Dover AFB, that had a RS Z Cortez Silver that still had chambers on his car. It was extremely loud and I was standing on the second floor of the barracks and the car was maybe 50 yards away. This was the only time I have heard that sound and I kind of liked it. Way different then the low rumble deep tone kind of sound that the transvers has. I guess I'll find out if I like it...this summer hopefully.
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« Reply #7 on: February 07, 2014, 11:59:07 AM »

I would say for $300, you did really well. It looks like a quality system with the two piece tailpipes. I have a stainless chambered system on my car from the 80's. It was one of the first chambered systems made by CC inc (I think?). The chambered mufflers do have a glass pak  sound to them. But it has been on the car for thirty years, I guess I am  used to it.
On the next go around with the car, I will be putting a Gardner  transverse system on it. Let us know how you like it.
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« Reply #8 on: February 07, 2014, 12:16:04 PM »

I had a gardner chambered system on my black rs/z and to me it had an unpleasant tone so I installed a gardner transverse system and I'm very happy. However on my 69 SS L34 car I replaced the original chambered with a gardner chambered system and it seems the 396 has a better tone. That reminds me I need to sell my small block gardner chambered system which has been sitting in my basement for 9 yrs.
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« Reply #9 on: February 07, 2014, 12:53:08 PM »

All this info is good. It really depends on what someone likes in sound from what I am reading. We all have our own opinions of what something sounds like. What can it hurt to find out?
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« Reply #10 on: February 07, 2014, 01:03:24 PM »

exactly. You got a deal on it, find out what it sounds like, if you don't like you might even make money on it. Who knows.

As far as the horse power loss, I agree you could have 7 to 10 hp between identical cars, and like Darrell have seen this first hand with the LS Camaros which we referred to the higher hp cars as "factory freak" because of the bonus hp, in the same make and model car. BUT if you "know" your taking a hit on hp, by installing a optional set up I think a lot less buyers would have checked the box for chambered at the time. That said it was many years after I think before it was discovered.
I still run into guys who proudly state they have the chambered exhaust. Which leads m to believe that a lot of guys probably thought(think) it was hp booster over the transverse system.
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« Reply #11 on: February 07, 2014, 01:20:33 PM »

exactly. You got a deal on it, find out what it sounds like, if you don't like you might even make money on it. Who knows.

As far as the horse power loss, I agree you could have 7 to 10 hp between identical cars, and like Darrell have seen this first hand with the LS Camaros which we referred to the higher hp cars as "factory freak" because of the bonus hp, in the same make and model car. BUT if you "know" your taking a hit on hp, by installing a optional set up I think a lot less buyers would have checked the box for chambered at the time. That said it was many years after I think before it was discovered.
I still run into guys who proudly state they have the chambered exhaust. Which leads m to believe that a lot of guys probably thought(think) it was hp booster over the transverse system.

If you recall, ALL of the early Z28 s had the chambered system, and only after a few months of production, was it changed to 'optional'.. which didn't last too long before they totally eliminated it as a possibility.  It would be interesting to know how many of the cars with original chambered got them during that period where they had to check it as a option (at possibly? more $$ - I'd have to check to see what the option price was...)?  you know the dealer ordered cars would NOT have the chambered system once it became an option..  only only 'selected' customer ordered cars would have gotten it, so I suspect it's a pretty rare *option* during that optional period.
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« Reply #12 on: February 07, 2014, 01:37:26 PM »

I used Gambler Competition SS system on my built 350, and at idle love the sound of the cam rolling though the pipes. After about 20 k miles it did start to sound  like glasspacks. After 15 years there still on my car.
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« Reply #13 on: February 07, 2014, 02:58:37 PM »

Are stainless steel systems supposed to be magnetic? The seller is having his doubts...he says a magnet will stick to every part he puts it on, plus he says it is very very heavy. Your thoughts are needed guys. This system is in Van Nuys too and UPS whats over $300.00 to ship it.
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« Reply #14 on: February 07, 2014, 03:08:41 PM »

I believe 400 series stainless is magnetic and 300 series is not, unless certain machining is perforned on it such as threads and such.
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« Reply #15 on: February 07, 2014, 03:10:20 PM »

Are stainless steel systems supposed to be magnetic? The seller is having his doubts...he says a magnet will stick to every part he puts it on, plus he says it is very very heavy. Your thoughts are needed guys. This system is in Van Nuys too and UPS whats over $300.00 to ship it.

It depends upon 'the stainless' whether it's magnetic or not (wiki says most SS is magnetic).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless_steel

I shipped an original NOS chambered system a year ago from Alabama to Washington state, and the shipping cost was in that same ballpark, but I also built and shipped it inside a wooden crate, which made it even heavier (and I insured it for more than $2000)..  Smiley

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« Reply #16 on: February 07, 2014, 03:33:34 PM »

I believe 400 series stainless is magnetic and 300 series is not, unless certain machining is perforned on it such as threads and such.

Correct.

400 series has little to no nickel in it which makes it magnetic and is also cheaper in price to produce.  300 series has more nickel and is in turn non magnetic and cost is increased due to the nickel content.  I would say the exhaust is 400 series stainless.  400 will rust; or oxidize, if not cared for over time.
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Darrell Cook

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« Reply #17 on: February 07, 2014, 03:36:39 PM »

Stuff it in a greyhound bus, and you can probably ship it station to station for less than 100 bucks.
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« Reply #18 on: February 07, 2014, 03:47:10 PM »

How does grey hound work with items like that? I found a floor jack in texas that I want to buy, but have no great way to get. The handle is complex to remove so the seller does not want to take it off. thanks
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« Reply #19 on: February 07, 2014, 03:47:39 PM »

I believe 400 series stainless is magnetic and 300 series is not, unless certain machining is perforned on it such as threads and such.

Correct.

400 series has little to no nickel in it which makes it magnetic and is also cheaper in price to produce.  300 series has more nickel and is in turn non magnetic and cost is increased due to the nickel content.  I would say the exhaust is 400 series stainless.  400 will rust; or oxidize, if not cared for over time.

Yes, I worked in the food service equipment industry here in Clayton/Smyrna Delaware, Eagle Group/Metal Masters, for 20 years and that is something I learned early on in 1984. The seller is saying the system is magnetic anywhere he sticks a magnet so he has his doubts now. One thing he says is it is very very heavy. So now I am clueless.
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« Reply #20 on: February 07, 2014, 05:54:23 PM »

Anyone recognize this stamping? IMCO???

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« Reply #21 on: February 07, 2014, 08:18:43 PM »

Aluminized exhaust


http://www.imcoweb.com/


At least that is what I come up with from my detective work.. Huh
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Darrell Cook

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« Reply #22 on: February 07, 2014, 08:51:27 PM »

I was on that site earlier this evening and couldn't find a thing on this exhaust except for a cherrybomb exhaust #9008.
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« Reply #23 on: February 07, 2014, 09:15:41 PM »

My guess is its private labeled.
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Darrell Cook

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« Reply #24 on: February 07, 2014, 10:15:38 PM »

I had a gardner chambered system on my black rs/z and to me it had an unpleasant tone so I installed a gardner transverse system and I'm very happy. However on my 69 SS L34 car I replaced the original chambered with a gardner chambered system and it seems the 396 has a better tone. That reminds me I need to sell my small block gardner chambered system which has been sitting in my basement for 9 yrs.


I also had Chambered Exhaust (original)on an L34 396, except it was on a '69 Chevelle, and I too liked the sound.  But over the years I have come to realize that "Big Block" Chevy's have a deeper tone than smalblocks.  You can achieve that "deeper tone" with certain systems.  I have a PYPES 2 1/2 in. Crossflow system behind Headers on my 67 with 327, and I love it.
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« Reply #25 on: February 07, 2014, 10:17:06 PM »

My guess is its private labeled.

IMCO factory is in Loudon, TN  Darrell..  not too far from you..  a bit SE of Knoxville...
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« Reply #26 on: February 07, 2014, 11:19:33 PM »

As is Cherry Bomb.  More than likely owned by the same parent company.
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Darrell Cook

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« Reply #27 on: February 08, 2014, 08:53:23 AM »

How does grey hound work with items like that? I found a floor jack in texas that I want to buy, but have no great way to get. The handle is complex to remove so the seller does not want to take it off. thanks

http://www.busfreighter.com/faq.html

Or

http://www.shipgreyhound.com/e/pages/Home.aspx
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« Reply #28 on: February 08, 2014, 05:12:24 PM »

http://www.sweet-thunder.com/camaro.html
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« Reply #29 on: February 08, 2014, 06:42:00 PM »

To be honest the seller has his doubts about the system being SS now. I googled IMCO and really didn't find anything that would indicate WHERE this system came from and as Darrell stated it's probably a private label. I'm thinking it is an aluminized steel system but will know more when it gets shipped to me. Rick's system goes for around $700.00, same for others I looked at, ebay has them for around $570.00 with hangers. So whatever it turns out to be, I still think I got a deal.
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« Reply #30 on: February 27, 2014, 08:36:12 PM »

Got a chance to look at the chambered exhaust I bought and it is aluminized steel not stainless. No biggy. Was checking out hanger kits and was thinking about using D&R's Z00001 hanger kit...see pic. Been looking for close up shots on line of the hangers installed but most are so small it is hard to make out how they are installed. Anybody have some close ups of the hanger clamp areas? Also I'm assuming I need some hardware to tighten the clamps around the pipes and muffler connections and the two mufflers in the muffler well. The 69 A.I.M. doesn't have much detail in it for what is needed for installation, can anyone that installed this system help me out on what hardware I need and those hanger close ups?
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« Reply #31 on: February 28, 2014, 02:33:53 AM »

Found what I was looking for when I dug a little deeper searching here. The c-clamps aren't correct but that's not a problem. The 69 A.I.M. UPC 8 A9 has some info and UPC NC8 A1 thru A3 has the important info. Found some of the hardware on the AMK website but can't find part #9431541...need 4 ea. of that number. Those are the screws used to clamp the hangers around the pipes and I think they are sheet metal type, I could be wrong though. Maybe someone here can indicate what they are. AMK has the screws that attach the hangers to the frame rails #9411890 4 ea. and the screws that attach the upper brackets to the bottom of the floor in the muffler well #3922549 2 ea. Still need to figure out what is used to bolt the 2 chambered mufflers together yet. Probably standard nuts and bolts. At least the info is noted here in case someone else needs it.
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« Reply #32 on: February 28, 2014, 12:14:29 PM »

Gary,
You may find that those aluminized pipes are REAL thick.  The clamps are going to be struggling pretty hard to make them seal right.  I ended up having to MIG welding the joints on mine.

-Mark.
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« Reply #33 on: February 28, 2014, 12:53:46 PM »

Gary,
You may find that those aluminized pipes are REAL thick.  The clamps are going to be struggling pretty hard to make them seal right.  I ended up having to MIG welding the joints on mine.

-Mark.


Hello Mark, it's been a while. I've been looking at whatever pics I could find on line and in forums and have seen some systems with a few small weld dabs here and there right at where the pipes slide into the other. Is this where you mean? Looks like it can be done this way in case the system has to come off for any reason. Check out this pic I found. You have to zoom in around where the clamp is and you'll see the weld bead.

If the pipe is that thick will it come apart at the junction if the clamps aren't extremely tight? I've seen the front chambers installed without any c-clamps
at all in some pics. I'm trying to find an oem system that hasn't been touched or one somebody got pics of before removing, but no luck as of today. There is only 6 c-clamps, you would think there would be 8. I'm looking at the 69 A.I.M. right now to see how this is constructed.

Another question...never installed a whole exhaust system, do you start from the back and work forward on front to back?
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« Reply #34 on: February 28, 2014, 03:48:21 PM »

My suggestion:   FRONT first (connect to the manifolds), leave the clamps a bit loose, work towards the back.   Once everything is installed and in position, begin tightening the clamps, ensuring that all the pipes are in position, and not within 'touching distance' of fixed parts of the car (or you will get the rattle/buzz associated when the exhaust system touches the car body/chassis).
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« Reply #35 on: March 22, 2014, 04:44:31 PM »

Hello , Has anyone had any experience with Stainless Works  69 SB Chambered exhaust systems ?  there is a set up for sale locally.
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« Reply #36 on: March 23, 2014, 01:45:03 PM »

The C-clamps are correct for the over axle hanger attachment to the pipe on early cars.
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« Reply #37 on: March 24, 2014, 08:45:29 PM »

Anybody know what hardware is used here marked in red for the chambered exhaust hangers? Seems the part number in the 69 AIM isn't available on the AMK Fasteners site. The hanger kits are available from most any of the Camaro houses but none have complete hardware. At least this particular screw isn't offered anywhere that I can find. Anybody have a pic of one I can compare with, I may even have something in my buckets of GM hardware. I'll need 4.

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« Reply #38 on: March 25, 2014, 03:49:03 PM »

Anybody know what hardware is used here marked in red for the chambered exhaust hangers? Seems the part number in the 69 AIM isn't available on the AMK Fasteners site. The hanger kits are available from most any of the Camaro houses but none have complete hardware. At least this particular screw isn't offered anywhere that I can find. Anybody have a pic of one I can compare with, I may even have something in my buckets of GM hardware. I'll need 4.


Gary,
they use a large hex head sheet metal screw is the best way to describe it.  

The repro hangars are not going to fool anyone if they have seen the originals.  The best repro sets out there are just not that accurate.

I tried to tack weld the pipes after the clamps did not get the job done but they leak black liquid condensation all over the system YUK! For my 3rd try I just MIG welded the crap out of it. No leaks now - LOL!

I would start at the front and work back.  You can bolt together the 2 rear chambered sections but leave everything loose until it is all where you want it.  Use the dimensions in the AIM and watch out for rubbing on the inside of the rear tires.

-Mark.
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« Reply #39 on: March 25, 2014, 06:17:18 PM »

Anybody know what hardware is used here marked in red for the chambered exhaust hangers? Seems the part number in the 69 AIM isn't available on the AMK Fasteners site. The hanger kits are available from most any of the Camaro houses but none have complete hardware. At least this particular screw isn't offered anywhere that I can find. Anybody have a pic of one I can compare with, I may even have something in my buckets of GM hardware. I'll need 4.


Gary,
they use a large hex head sheet metal screw is the best way to describe it. 

The repro hangars are not going to fool anyone if they have seen the originals.  The best repro sets out there are just not that accurate.

I tried to tack weld the pipes after the clamps did not get the job done but they leak black liquid condensation all over the system YUK! For my 3rd try I just MIG welded the crap out of it. No leaks now - LOL!

I would start at the front and work back.  You can bolt together the 2 rear chambered sections but leave everything loose until it is all where you want it.  Use the dimensions in the AIM and watch out for rubbing on the inside of the rear tires.

-Mark.

Hello Mark,

So it is just a sheet metal screw. I'll just take one of each bracket to the hardware store and do a fit test to get the right size. I was curious about the 2 chambers that get bolted together...best to bolt together before going under the car or after? I was thinking before and just slip on to the hangers and then start at the front and the back to hang the pipes. Something I have noticed with the chambered system is all the black leaking from the connections in the pics I found on-line and how some have little tack welds here and there at the connections. I went to look at my exhaust and the tubing is quite thick and looks like it will be a bear to tighten the clamps. I'm not so sure I want to weld it all up but I shall see what I end up with afterwards. Yeah I already have the AIM bookmarked were the dimensions are. Just need to get the hanger kit. Most all have them at around $200.00 and D & R has them for $119.00. Is there a difference?? I could ask in a separate topic but probably would get many comparison replies. What did you use Mark?

Gary
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« Reply #40 on: March 26, 2014, 02:01:28 AM »

I have D & R Chambered Exhaust Part Number: Z00003 and Chambered Exhaust Hanger Kit 67-69 w/ Clamps  Part Number: Z00001-KIT installed.
Let me know if you want some pictures or other information. I bought them three years ago and I remember that the bolts were included, but I may remember wrong..

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« Reply #41 on: March 26, 2014, 01:41:07 PM »

I have D & R Chambered Exhaust Part Number: Z00003 and Chambered Exhaust Hanger Kit 67-69 w/ Clamps  Part Number: Z00001-KIT installed.
Let me know if you want some pictures or other information. I bought them three years ago and I remember that the bolts were included, but I may remember wrong..



I was a little curious if the hanger kit came with hardware. All the kits I've looked at in catalogs don't say if included and I was going to call to find out but haven't yet, and what is the difference between the $199.00 kit everyone else provides and the $119.00 kit that D & R provides? Currently, I have no idea if any of my hardware is correct, so, what I want to do is order the correct hardware from AMK Fasteners and according to the 69 AIM part numbers they have all but the hanger clamp screws, those aren't available. I don't believe they are a nut and bolt operation but more a sheet metal screw type. Have seen them both ways in on-line pics. Maybe a shot of the clamp screws if you want to brave the cold will help, but not necessary unless you don't have a problem doing it.
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« Reply #42 on: March 28, 2014, 10:11:01 AM »

For a better illustration of parts in the AIM go to the L34 section, it has the early clamp part numbers listed along with the complete list of parts.
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« Reply #43 on: March 28, 2014, 05:53:56 PM »

For a better illustration of parts in the AIM go to the L34 section, it has the early clamp part numbers listed along with the complete list of parts.

Thanks James. Perfect. Page 294 and 295, UPC L35/L34, B5 and B6.
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« Reply #44 on: March 29, 2014, 08:57:24 PM »

The hangar kits are all over the place as to quality.  I actually called D&R and asked them for a "functional" Chambered Hangar reproduction and they had some odd loose Chambered Hangar pieces they sent me to complete my kit.  I still had some of the original hangar pieces under there so I just needed some bits to put it all together.  My car isn't worth buying NOS so I figured why worry about it?  I have pix of NOS hangars somewhere.
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« Reply #45 on: March 29, 2014, 10:15:51 PM »

If you are talking the rear most hangers I have a (extra) set of NOS hangers. I am not sure if this is what you referring to:
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« Reply #46 on: March 30, 2014, 01:01:09 PM »

The hangar kits are all over the place as to quality.  I actually called D&R and asked them for a "functional" Chambered Hangar reproduction and they had some odd loose Chambered Hangar pieces they sent me to complete my kit.  I still had some of the original hangar pieces under there so I just needed some bits to put it all together.  My car isn't worth buying NOS so I figured why worry about it?  I have pix of NOS hangars somewhere.

Mark, what was the quality of D & R's brackets? My car is not worthy of NOS either. I would be happy with just form and function.
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« Reply #47 on: March 30, 2014, 01:04:06 PM »

If you are talking the rear most hangers I have a (extra) set of NOS hangers. I am not sure if this is what you referring to:


Does the bracket require a nut and bolt or are the holes punched for a sheet metal type screw? I can't tell from your pic.
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« Reply #48 on: March 30, 2014, 11:04:07 PM »

i think it should be a hex sheet metal screw. I do not have an original (yet) .. Grin
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« Reply #49 on: March 30, 2014, 11:36:26 PM »

attached are a couple of pix showing one of the rear most hangers removed from the car, with the bolt installed, and a separate photo of the three fasteners:  2 which hold the hanger to the frame, and the 3rd which retains the hanger clamped to the pipe.
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« Reply #50 on: March 31, 2014, 11:45:07 AM »

Thanks Gary. Have to see if I have any of the clamp screws in my stash.
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« Reply #51 on: April 01, 2014, 09:22:28 AM »

While I was under my car this morning, I had opportunity to get a photo of one of the rear exhaust pipe hangars installed (no exhaust there right now, but I got another view of the bolt which retains the exhaust pipe...
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« Reply #52 on: April 01, 2014, 10:40:52 AM »

If your pipes have the aftermarket chromed tips with the heavy wall polished section, those hangers won't fit around them.  Chambered exhuast never had polished tips (polished tips started the same week the chambered system was discontinued), so they are sized for the stock thinwall tailipipe diameter.
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« Reply #53 on: April 01, 2014, 11:42:43 AM »

The hangar kits are all over the place as to quality.  I actually called D&R and asked them for a "functional" Chambered Hangar reproduction and they had some odd loose Chambered Hangar pieces they sent me to complete my kit.  I still had some of the original hangar pieces under there so I just needed some bits to put it all together.  My car isn't worth buying NOS so I figured why worry about it?  I have pix of NOS hangars somewhere.

Mark, what was the quality of D & R's brackets? My car is not worthy of NOS either. I would be happy with just form and function.

It will vary even from the same vendor.  I called D&R and talked to them directly and discussed it.  They had some odd pieces that appeared to come from multiple designs/suppliers.  Never bothered me.  I used pieces from what they sent and what I stlll had under the car and it worked out fine. 

My rubbers were shot/gone but the GM metal brackets were reused. 

-Mark.
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« Reply #54 on: April 01, 2014, 12:51:16 PM »

If your pipes have the aftermarket chromed tips with the heavy wall polished section, those hangers won't fit around them.  Chambered exhuast never had polished tips (polished tips started the same week the chambered system was discontinued), so they are sized for the stock thinwall tailipipe diameter.

This is what I have.
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« Reply #55 on: April 01, 2014, 02:08:35 PM »

That is the same D&R aluminized system that I have.

-Mark.
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« Reply #56 on: April 01, 2014, 02:25:08 PM »

You might be good, my polished tailpipes have a longer heavy wall section then yours  They go all the way up to where it turns to go into the mufflers, and mine (I have one of the aftermarket chambered sets) don't fit into those rear hangers at all.  They had to be rebent to even come close to fitting around the pipe.
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« Reply #57 on: April 01, 2014, 03:17:45 PM »

All is good then, just need to get the hanger kit now. I was looking at some different forums and found one, don't remember which one, that had some exhaust installation tips. Make sure everything fits and then remove and then saw slots on either side of the muffler and or pipe connections and the clamps will tighten down better. Have you guys heard that being done? Kind of makes sense. The metal is pretty thick and I know Mark, Stingr69, said there was an issue there? As I stated before there were a ton of pics I found when I Googled images for Camaro exhausts and found plenty that have weld spots to hold the connections together.
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« Reply #58 on: April 01, 2014, 09:46:45 PM »

GaryC:   

-Your pipes are aluminized, and thus are thicker, and likely have a larger O.D. than a stock tail pipe.   

-Re the slots in pipes at connections:   Yes, several exhaust pipes I've purchased aftermarket in the past have come with the outer pipe 'slotted' at the juncture to facilitate installation and perhaps the tightening down of the clamps.   You can actually break exhaust clamps by attempting to clamp some of those very thick pipes...
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« Reply #59 on: April 05, 2014, 03:09:20 PM »

Been chatting with D & R Classics via email over the past 2 days about their chambered exhaust hanger kit and lack of hardware. Their hanger kits were designed off the original GM hangers from what I was told. On the hardware this was the last email I got this morning.

"Yes, I had a hard time even finding specs on the screws. I found a generic replacement for the tail pipe clamp and tail pipe hanger to frame rail as I found the spec on those bolts. The front hanger and clamp I have to pull off a car to make sure I have original samples. Then I can send them out to be copied with the correct marking and all.

You are correct, AMK does not have anything for those part numbers.

We are working on it and hopefully will have hardware soon. Glad you asked about them. I am not sure how we have not had them all this time.

Thank you"


I had written down all the hardware part numbers that were found on pages 294 and 295, UPC L35/L34 B5 and B6 from the 69 AIM and emailed them to D & R. Maybe they can do a really complete kit.
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« Reply #60 on: April 07, 2014, 11:17:57 PM »

69 AIM UPS NC8 has more info on the chambered exhaust too. Page 391,2,3
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