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Author Topic: photos of my 69 build,  (Read 2800 times)
ko-lek-tor
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« Reply #30 on: January 24, 2014, 01:12:31 PM »

We don't have salt trucks... Smiley     and on those *rare, once in 4-5 yr* days when we have ice on overpasses, etc..  they use sand (which is not 'good', but much better than salt)...
You ever seen a car parked near the beach for a period of time? That salt water mist is devastating! So not all Southern cars are well preserved time capsules. A few cars that come to mind, remind me of KERR's.
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Putting you First...Keeps me First. Talent on loan from God. Helping the hobbyist and exposing the fraud
1969 SS/RS 396 coupe Hugger Orange X22 712 bought in 79
1969 SS 350 coupe LeMans Blue 713 bought in 79
1969 307 4spd. coupe Daytona Yellow 711 bought in 85
69Z28-RS
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« Reply #31 on: January 24, 2014, 01:41:58 PM »

Yes, I have...  and when you get down to Florida, and/or anywhere around a beachfront area, you can see those things (sand has a certain amount of salt in it typically)..   

related note:  A friend of mine (from my USAF days '68-72) had his '66 Hurst Shelby stolen from a NY/Queens street (in front of his house) right before he joined the USAF.   We'd been in the USAF a couple of years, when he got a call from his insurance company; they had *found* his car.. or at least the 'hull'..  the car had been 'stripped' of every removable part, and the raw body dumped on the seashore somewhere in NY/NJ.. and in only a couple of years, it was rusted to 'worthless'.... 
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
90 ZR1 red/red #246, 90 ZR1 white/gray #2466
72 El Camino, '55 Nomad, '57 Nomad, '57 B/A Sedan
Stingr69
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« Reply #32 on: January 24, 2014, 05:14:29 PM »

In all honesty - My advise is to look around for a better core.  This one will cost too much and take too long to do it right.  It is worth more as a parts car in my opinion.  Sorry.

-Mark.
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68camaroz28
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« Reply #33 on: January 24, 2014, 05:34:02 PM »

Just one thing to comment on as I have a son and 5 grandsons and agree working on a car with one is special but I can also talk from experience that the task should not be overwhelming or it can have a negative impact. As we all know younger people have a more limited attention span and after awhile it can be not so much fun. Smaller projects with quicker rewards work much better.
I applaud the effort both individually or as a father and young son but please evaluate carefully before plowing into a course of action. Again, all the luck to you!
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Chick
68 Z/28 NOR 01B Orig motor/trans/rear
69 Z/28 NOR 07A Orig Block & GM Cross-ram/carbs
69 L34 Rest. Nova Father/Son Car
69 L78 Surv Nova Purch 4/69 31K miles
67 L89 Corv Tribute
68 Corv 427/400 Orig motor
07 Corv Z06
R 68Z build- http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584
KERR
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« Reply #34 on: January 27, 2014, 10:00:53 AM »

Sorry for the late reply.  this post has blown up,   i posted all those last week then get the flu,   


Yes i got the car from a dealer,  i dont think they knew the car had the problems,  and the way it was all hidden there was no way to to know.  besdides the roof,  i guess the car has been fixed correctley over time,  the body work was straight as can be, and gaps where good, also all the pannels sounded the same,     I guess the only way i might have been able to find out about the roof is if i took the head linner down,  but im not what you can see with the it down.. ive never had one out in a camaro.   

What i find interesting is they fiberglassed the roof, on the top,  then did nothing on the sides,  just left those holes about the size of your thumb...   or maybe they came in after they painted the part and fixed the roof?   I do know we went over the car as pretty good,  i figued a roof sikn from the start because i dont like the vinyl top,  and if i had left the rest alone it would have probably been ok,  but if im going to do the roof might as well do everything else..


I guess for now ill sand down those two doors and see if anything is under them.   If not then i know i need both front fenderes,  both 1/4 pannels,  trunk lid,  roof and god knows what under the roof skin...   

Then take the car to our lake house one night and just leave it,   ive got a 2 car garage down there thats to small for the sububrans to fit in so it just empty... it has heat and air and a security system so i think ill just take it down there and leve it until i buy all the parts.. 

The last custom car i did,  we did all the body work and paint first which sucked,   so ill probably just order everything,  then get some money saved up to have it all installed,  then just ride it in primer until motor and everything is done..    Its a total pain in the ars working on a finished car,   it seems like the harder you try for something not to happen the more stuff happens...   


I am a dealer and he was a delaer but ive never had a issue like this.  In the past ive had to have cars bought back that mileage issues,  or  frame damage,  but not over rust.   So i ask a friend who deals in the old cars all the time and he said its yes and no,   Yes i can try to fight and no its probably not work it unless they other dealer just got scared and bought it back.   but chances of that are slim to non.  So im going lawers fee's etc and on the old car stuff its not a open and shut case..    Exaple if you bought real copo car, with everything correct, numbers, papers etc,  and then get it and the motor is out of say a 71 dump turck, then yes you have something to work with,    but with the rust bening covered up,   his lawers will play the card of he didnt know,  bla bla bla...     

I think if i try to go that way,  i just need to call the dealer and see who he got it from,  he only had the car a month by they way title work show's.    play the card of both of us are interested in talking to him... 
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ko-lek-tor
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« Reply #35 on: January 27, 2014, 10:19:55 AM »

Laws generally favor the buyer, but remember most sales are "as-is" a legal defense in letting seller off the hook. You could go back to the dealer (in a very civil manner, mind you) and show your evidence and plead your case and see if "seller" is willing to do something about the purchase. If not, best to move on (IMO) and take what funds and energy you might put towards litigation and put that towards your car. As a member, here I believe, put it, "consider it tuition payment for schooling (of hard knocks)".
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Putting you First...Keeps me First. Talent on loan from God. Helping the hobbyist and exposing the fraud
1969 SS/RS 396 coupe Hugger Orange X22 712 bought in 79
1969 SS 350 coupe LeMans Blue 713 bought in 79
1969 307 4spd. coupe Daytona Yellow 711 bought in 85
KERR
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« Reply #36 on: January 27, 2014, 02:09:19 PM »

yea thats what im thinking,   Im not killed in the car,   i went buying a "rust free" car and paid more that i feel like i should have at this point considering what i have to fix,  but if was say $5K less i would felt better..  Ive looked for years and its either a good car $30k ish,  to start with,  or it needs everything for $10-15K.   

The cars ive seen that are already done are like $60K sooo, in the long run i should have about that amount in this one but have what i want,   but with that said big motors arnt cheap so i cant really compair prices..

I bought a running driving pretty good looking car,  it just hid its flaws well...   Sorta like the really hot woman from the bar or club,  they never look the same in normal lighting lol...    It is what it is i guess.     I looked on AMD and it looks like i need about $3K worth of parts so its as bad as i thought..  I just dont know what labor will cost to put it together. 

Ive been down the road before,  once you start you dont stop.  Back in 1990 same deal on 67 vette..  Frame off restoration,  everything new,  then crashed the car like a pro in 94,   suied erie ins car set for years,  when we  fixed it i fixed as a driver in 96-97,  fast forward to now and its showing its age..   I havent done anything to it, becuase if you fix one thing then the rest has to be done.  That and i kinda like the look of the abused car,  stress cracks, bubber melted on the paint,  paint faided in spots and then some a hole keyed it...    its like the 67 vette that no one cares about...  turns quite a few heads...   heck i havent washed it in 3 years,  i just get it and ride with all the dust and dirt on it,  lol,  the exhaust has turned the red lines black on the back as well as the wheels...  look like im rolling slicks on steelie in the back,   but its fun.. 

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cook_dw
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« Reply #37 on: January 27, 2014, 02:49:46 PM »

If you want to replace the top on your car; I have a top that was cut off of a 67 back several years ago that is in really good shape.  Might be worth the effort instead of cutting and welding in pieces of metal.  PM if you are interested.  I live 20 miles east of Nashville and will be at the Fairgrounds this weekend at the Stones River Swap Meet.  Also let me know what other parts you may need cause I might have them.  Good luck on the build.   Smiley
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Darrell Cook
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« Reply #38 on: July 26, 2014, 06:52:42 PM »

That car is a mess.  From the few photos posted, I can only imagine how bad it really is.  I am betting the rear frame rails are just about gone, and I would be surprised if one good speed bump wouldn't put them though the floor.  This car could get you killed on the road.  I would even be willing to bet that a rebody from dynacorn would be cheaper than the repairs needed.

If the car was advertised or you were it was rust free, and the seller held himself out as a car specialist, then you certainly have legal recourse over and above that of a regular private seller.  If you want to stay away from lawyers and retainer fees, I would call the guy, and let him know that he was reckless with the truth, and that you relied on his statement or advertising of a "rust-free" vehicle.  That this statement is way in excess of simply puffing up the sale of the car, and is fraud.  State to the dealer that you feel that a $5K refund would be fair, and if refuses, that you will sue him. 

A small claims lawsuit if pretty easy to handle for the average joe, and you would likely win as long as you have a good expert witness.  It would be in the interest of the dealer to settle with you, as even though you can represent yourself as a pro-se litigant, the dealer MUST hire an attorney, as a business can not represent itself in a legal court trial.  By you filing a $300 small claim suit, he would have to hire an attorney, which would more than likely want a minimum of a $5k to $10k retainer. 

I suggest you call and try to settle for a reasonable refund.  If he says no, then file the suit, and I bet that upon hiim recieiving it, and realizing attorneys are expensive, and that paying you $5k to go away, is cheaper for him.  Just my opinion.  It couldn't hurt to try.  With a situation where this is a car dealer holding himself out as a professional, you have a lot more legal protections, and he has a certain level of requirements when giving facts about a car he is selling, and what is relied upon by you when he makes certain statements.


 

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