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Author Topic: 1969 Z/28 Leaf Springs  (Read 1250 times)
DyRally-Z1986
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« on: January 15, 2014, 01:29:13 PM »

Can someone tell me the best way to get my Z/28's leaf springs to look new again. I was going to sandblast them. After that what would you guys recommend? I know they are supposed to be a natural metal color.
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ban617
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« Reply #1 on: January 15, 2014, 09:49:37 PM »

 I think it  was scoop that used sharkhide on his and they looked great ....
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Sauron327
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« Reply #2 on: January 15, 2014, 11:42:44 PM »

Do an advanced search on this site. Sandblasting and finishing incorrectly will not produce an original appearance. New springs and raw steel have a unique appearance. Go to your local spring shop or steel yard and have a look.
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z28z11
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« Reply #3 on: January 16, 2014, 12:47:20 AM »

I'd have 'em shotpeened. It will restore strength to the steel, plus it will take stress and stress risers out of the leafs (helps keep them from cracking). Most spring shops usually do this as part of the re-arching process, it will produce a "mill" finish unlike sandblasting or bead blasting. If you do this, the spring will have to be disassembled, so you can take the time to replace the pads and keepers. If you're just refinishing, sandblasting with aluminum oxide works pretty good, removes crud but is not nearly as fast cutting (and deep cutting) as silicon nitride, black beauty, slag or silica sand. Doesn't rough the surface excessively.

You can always bead or plastic media, and paint. We had a pretty lengthy discussion on spring rebuilding a while back - I'll dig it up when I get the time (unless someone beats me to it).

Regards,
Steve
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1968 Z28 BRG/W
1969 Z28 X77 LeMans/W
1969 X66 L78 Cortez/BVT
1969 Z11 L48
DyRally-Z1986
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« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2014, 02:04:14 PM »

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to have to figure out if my springs need re arched.
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lynnbilodeau
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« Reply #5 on: February 10, 2014, 09:03:47 PM »

Some pics of mine in this thread: http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/534883/1

I sandblasted, then coated with a very thin film of permatex rust converter on the bare metal.
Let set 72 hours, ran over them with a scotch pad and painted with a very light coat of cast iron paint.
Then coated with REM oil, which is available at academy.  It is a penetrating oil with silicone so it hangs around pretty good.

Another thread hear just for the springs and rear axle refurb: http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/519953/69_Z/28_rear_axle_and_springs_#Post519953
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ko-lek-tor
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« Reply #6 on: February 10, 2014, 09:36:10 PM »

Some pics of mine in this thread: http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/534883/1

I sandblasted, then coated with a very thin film of permatex rust converter on the bare metal.
Let set 72 hours, ran over them with a scotch pad and painted with a very light coat of cast iron paint.
Then coated with REM oil, which is available at academy.  It is a penetrating oil with silicone so it hangs around pretty good.

Another thread hear just for the springs and rear axle refurb: http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/519953/69_Z/28_rear_axle_and_springs_#Post519953
Lynn, It would be nice if you did a tech post on how you made those clamps and what you used for rivets. I know I would read it.
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Putting you First...Keeps me First. Talent on loan from God. Helping the hobbyist and exposing the fraud
1969 SS/RS 396 coupe Hugger Orange X22 712 bought in 79
1969 SS 350 coupe LeMans Blue 713 bought in 79
1969 307 4spd. coupe Daytona Yellow 711 bought in 85
BillOhio
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« Reply #7 on: February 12, 2014, 11:40:10 AM »

Does the rem oil dry or become a dust magnet? I coated my hood hinges with something with lanolin in it and not sure it will dry
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1969 Z28, Burgandy, numbers matching, 12,900 miles
1967 Plymouth GTX Hemi, 4 speed, dana
miket1
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« Reply #8 on: February 13, 2014, 04:12:02 PM »

What about  BoeShield, it works very well.
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69 Z28
lynnbilodeau
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« Reply #9 on: February 21, 2014, 09:53:49 PM »

No reason boeshield wouldn't work.  I just didn't have any handy.

James, let me see if I took any pictures of the actual rivet assy.   I used bolts for the rivets.  I had my old rivets as a model.   I ground the head into the same general shape as the old rivet head.  then put the shank in a drill and held the head on some 40 grit to get the same swirl pattern as the originals.   I cut the bolts just a bit longer than the final rivet would be, and center drilled the shank with a 5/31 bit about 1/4 inch deep.   Sherri held the assembly up on the vice for me rivet head down on the anvil.   I used a large punch for the first couple of hits, then used the small end of a ball peen hammer as a punch for the last two or three hits.   Kept hitting until the clamp was tight and would not spin on the rivet.

I made the clamps from some steel stock.   They are just a few thousanths thicker than my originals, but closer than the aftermarket clamps.  Cut and ground them to size.   After they were riveted on, Sherri and I used a combination of hammers and the vice to bend them into place.  It is definitely a two person job.
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ko-lek-tor
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« Reply #10 on: February 21, 2014, 10:50:24 PM »

Well, that sounds pretty doable. Of course, when you are as talented as you are Lynn, I guess it seemed pretty easy! Thanks for the inspiration. Any particular grade of metal stock (hardness) you recommend?
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Putting you First...Keeps me First. Talent on loan from God. Helping the hobbyist and exposing the fraud
1969 SS/RS 396 coupe Hugger Orange X22 712 bought in 79
1969 SS 350 coupe LeMans Blue 713 bought in 79
1969 307 4spd. coupe Daytona Yellow 711 bought in 85
sbmiano
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« Reply #11 on: February 23, 2014, 08:52:55 PM »

If u aren't going to drive the car and just show it u can use rem oil.  I got a great pair from Bob Harris and once installed I put cc a nice coat of rem oil on th e m and they look great
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69 z28  Van Nuys 04D Legends Certified
09 viper 5k miles
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