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Author Topic: First attempt at Zinc Plating  (Read 5713 times)
cook_dw
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« on: October 03, 2013, 07:12:28 PM »

Well I finally got around to try out my zinc plating process.  Everything seems to have gone ok for the first prelim run.  I believe once I get more parts and the process down I think these parts will come out great.  Figured I would try it out on a broken clamp.  I only worked on the outer ring portion of the clamp and nothing else.  I also think once I blast these parts they will take better.

Before



After first dip.


After third dip and scrubbing.


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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
cook_dw
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« Reply #1 on: October 03, 2013, 08:40:18 PM »

Changed around my settings & I like this one even better..  Much cleaner & uniform.  






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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
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« Reply #2 on: October 03, 2013, 08:59:28 PM »

that's not bad Darrel..     How much is your $$ and time investment so far?  Smiley
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
90 ZR1 red/red #246, 90 ZR1 white/gray #2466
72 El Camino, '55 Nomad, '57 Nomad, '57 B/A Sedan
cook_dw
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« Reply #3 on: October 04, 2013, 07:01:12 AM »

Its not too bad.  Once I get this process down if anyone wants me to do some parts for them just pm me and we can go from there.   Grin
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
NoYenko
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« Reply #4 on: October 04, 2013, 06:37:32 PM »

Darrel your work looks good. I have found a real fine SS brush works well to even out the finish on some parts great for screws. 0000 steel wool works also. It is nice to plate at home so you can clean & plate as needed. George
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cook_dw
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« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2013, 12:27:57 PM »

And the chromate conversion.




George, thanks for the tips.  I'm really starting to enjoy this.
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
z28z11
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« Reply #6 on: October 07, 2013, 09:33:39 PM »

Not bad - in fact, not bad at all. Did you bead the chromate version ? I bet if you top coated with clear it would be dynamite. Probably last forever, too. Great job -

Regards,
Steve
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1968 Z28 BRG/W
1969 Z28 X77 LeMans/W
1969 X66 L78 Cortez/BVT
1969 Z11 L48
cook_dw
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« Reply #7 on: October 08, 2013, 07:17:43 AM »

Not bad - in fact, not bad at all. Did you bead the chromate version ? I bet if you top coated with clear it would be dynamite. Probably last forever, too. Great job -

Regards,
Steve

Thanks!!  I guess it is sorta a bead process.  I havent tried it with these parts yet but in the past when I have cleared chromate parts it tends to wash out the rainbow coloring.  It may have been my process.  Ill try to clear this clamp and see what it looks like after.
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
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« Reply #8 on: October 08, 2013, 09:21:48 AM »

Darrel, I would think the clear would really change the finish. I try to polish the Zinc plating as much as possible before the chromate or Yellow cad dip. That should give you a brighter finish.Try to dip it for a shorter time blow dry and check the results. Ten seconds plus or minus really changes the color. Here are a couple pictures of some AC fittings I restored in this link.  http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=9859.msg77826#msg77826  George.
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cook_dw
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« Reply #9 on: October 08, 2013, 11:25:00 AM »

Like I said my past experiences turned the chromate finish to just a gold finish after clearing.  That was my first attempt with the conversion process.  I hope to get a few other pieces finished before this weekend.  Ill post them up once I am finished.  Since that piece I showed of the clamp I do not allow the part to soak any longer than 15 secs..  Those AC fittings look great btw.  How many times do you strike your parts in the zinc bath?
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
scoop
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« Reply #10 on: October 08, 2013, 08:12:53 PM »

This looks really good.  Did you use some kind of kit?  Thanks, Scoop
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cook_dw
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« Reply #11 on: October 08, 2013, 09:07:49 PM »

Thanks!!  Nope just made up the process after reading several websites & how-to's.. 
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
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« Reply #12 on: October 08, 2013, 09:24:07 PM »

Nice job...that looks great!
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NoYenko
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« Reply #13 on: October 09, 2013, 06:21:01 AM »

How many times do you strike your parts in the zinc bath?
Just once, but sometimes I have to plate for a longer time frame to get good coverage. George
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169INDY
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« Reply #14 on: October 09, 2013, 10:44:19 PM »

That looks like a CASWELL plating job to me.
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/index.html
I purchased a kit in 2000 and built a variable power supply. I found the finish difficult to obtain (I lacked the necessary brighteners) and got a  dull gray finish. A Lot of the problem can be in your prep. AVOID sandblasting of any kind. You need to clean and polish the surface to obtain a smooth fresh plated part.
Your progress looks good.

I gave up and found a Local Plater who plates the equivalent of a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood part's for 130$ per lot near a local airplane manufacture in North Seattle.

Jim
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Jim
68 SS/RS L35 Th-400 LOS
69 Pace Car L48 Th-350 LOS
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