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Author Topic: GM silver for Rally wheels.  (Read 7162 times)
1968guppy
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« on: July 02, 2013, 11:58:43 AM »

Does anyone have the company or code number for the GM silver that goes on the Rally wheels?  I want to get them powder coated. and the powder coat company I went to is asking me if it is, for example, Cardinal or some other.  Thank you.
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69Z28-RS
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« Reply #1 on: July 02, 2013, 01:46:24 PM »

From a search:
(Chevelles forum)
"The 1969 reference page here:    http://www.chevellestuff.com/1969/paint.htm
says this:
The lower body panel on Malibus for Argent Silver is DuPont mixing formula 927-95905 or 41253, Ditzler (PPG) color number is DE-8568."

and ...
"Argent Silver is PPG #8568
Ditzler DE-8568
DuPont 42153
Ditzler DQE-8568
DuPont 9692L


DCC DK Argent Met. Flat NX
Match to DDL32961

DMC 900 38.0 38.0
DMC 908 10.0 48.0
DMC 983 110.0 158.0
DMC 902 153.0 311.0
DX 685 850.0 1161.0
DMC 981 790.0 1951.0
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
90 ZR1 red/red #246, 90 ZR1 white/gray #2466
72 El Camino, '55 Nomad, '57 Nomad, '57 B/A Sedan
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« Reply #2 on: July 02, 2013, 01:50:37 PM »

and also from Team Chevelle forum, Rustynutznrods writes:....

"Eastwood makes a Hotcoat Argent Silver base (part # 10102). The issue with silver powder coating is that they all require a clear topcoat. It's not a bad solution if you're not concerned with originality. But it's obvious to the experienced eye that the finish is not original.

We've done a lot of wheels in satin black powder coat with the correct Argent Silver sprayed on the wheel face. The paint codes are DuPont 9692L or Ditzler DQE-8568. "
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
90 ZR1 red/red #246, 90 ZR1 white/gray #2466
72 El Camino, '55 Nomad, '57 Nomad, '57 B/A Sedan
1968guppy
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« Reply #3 on: July 02, 2013, 02:38:44 PM »

This is very helpful.  Thank you for the prompt response.
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1968guppy
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« Reply #4 on: July 02, 2013, 03:36:57 PM »

This is very helpful.  Thank you for the prompt response.

So can the wheel face be sand blasted and then masked to later spray paint the Argent Silver?  I ask this because the powder coat company is saying that masking involves heating issues and can involve overspray.  This is not too much of a concern for me if it can be done.  It was also mentioned that powder coating does not need to involve the clear topcoat.  Is this what gives the wheel that lasting protection from such elements as rust?
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1968guppy
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« Reply #5 on: July 02, 2013, 04:13:03 PM »

and also from Team Chevelle forum, Rustynutznrods writes:....

"Eastwood makes a Hotcoat Argent Silver base (part # 10102). The issue with silver powder coating is that they all require a clear topcoat. It's not a bad solution if you're not concerned with originality. But it's obvious to the experienced eye that the finish is not original.

We've done a lot of wheels in satin black powder coat with the correct Argent Silver sprayed on the wheel face. The paint codes are DuPont 9692L or Ditzler DQE-8568. "
  Where the inside of the wheels originally black?
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janobyte
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« Reply #6 on: July 02, 2013, 06:23:36 PM »

yes  , black .
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x77-69z28
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« Reply #7 on: July 02, 2013, 10:20:47 PM »

Have the whole wheel powdercoater black. Then scuff the outside and spray argent silver. I did this on my 67 rally's and they came out great. Please note that there is overspray that gets on the inside of the wheels.
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69 x77 burnished brown, 711 int 05A bought in 78
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« Reply #8 on: July 03, 2013, 02:27:48 PM »

Have the whole wheel powdercoater black. Then scuff the outside and spray argent silver. I did this on my 67 rally's and they came out great. Please note that there is overspray that gets on the inside of the wheels.
X2 - on the please note. There should be silver overspray on the inside.
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« Reply #9 on: October 26, 2013, 07:10:45 PM »

I know this is an older tread but do you guy recommend sand blasting the rims or is there another (Safer) way to get the old paint, and rust off?

Thanks, Rick
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Rick
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« Reply #10 on: October 26, 2013, 09:32:35 PM »

You can tumble the wheels, it's a lot less abrasive
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69 x77 burnished brown, 711 int 05A bought in 78
67 rs/ss 350 butternut yellow 4 speed 2nd owner
70 Z28 forrest green, green int, M40, bk vinyl roof PROJECT
99 SS hugger orange 6spd NO TTOPS bought new 1 of 54
11 cts-v blk diamond  edition wagon 556hp sick!
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« Reply #11 on: October 26, 2013, 11:03:15 PM »

Ok here is my 2 cents: I have a set of powder coated wheels in the correct argent silver on my impala. While they will never rust I have a couple of issues with them. Along with the wheels and anything else as Gary mentioned powder coated items have a different sheen to them, so on the wheels it looks like a slight orange peel affect. powder coating them in black first is a great idea and then scuffing out side and spraying in argent sounds good to me. BUT hold on a sec!
Glass beading or sand blasting is a quick easy way, and IMO the easiest if you access to one, but please Note* the glass particles or sand will get stuck in the cracks of the wheel where they welded the inner piece to the outer rim of the wheel. If you do not clean this they will powder right over it, and it will look like CRAP. Take the extra time to take a razor blade or utility knife into those tight areas and pry all those little bits of sand and glass out. Then take some 200 and get it in there just to get the extra dust and dirt out. I am super picky, so I have found this works best so far, so when you do powder or paint it will look really good.
Unless you plan on driving in salt paint should work just fine.
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
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« Reply #12 on: October 27, 2013, 08:23:28 AM »

BULLITT65     Have you tried soda blasting ? I've heard nothing but good , but would like to get some opinions from guys on this site before I pick a portable one up to do the rear end. Also heard if some of the media does find it's way in it will dissolve.
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« Reply #13 on: October 27, 2013, 10:32:16 AM »

You can tumble the wheels, it's a lot less abrasive
What do you mean by tumble the wheels?  I've never heard of that.  Huh
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« Reply #14 on: October 27, 2013, 10:15:24 PM »

It is a box with media in it. You put the part in and it tumbles the part and cleans it up. I believe this is the process that Jerry uses on his aluminum parts. Any big blasting company will have a tumbler.
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69 x77 burnished brown, 711 int 05A bought in 78
67 rs/ss 350 butternut yellow 4 speed 2nd owner
70 Z28 forrest green, green int, M40, bk vinyl roof PROJECT
99 SS hugger orange 6spd NO TTOPS bought new 1 of 54
11 cts-v blk diamond  edition wagon 556hp sick!
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« Reply #15 on: October 27, 2013, 11:58:31 PM »

what is the best price you have gotten for this? I wasn't near my blasting cabinet and asked a local shop to bead blast or sand blast some wheels, the price guestimate was around $200??? Undecided second shop same thing???  ???I can't imagine the "tumbler" is any better in price. Less man hours, but I bet they quote about the same amount, way to much for me.
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
Looking for 3192477 (front) spiral shocks 3192851 (rear) please
Looking for an original LOF soft ray windshield
Looking for original Delco side post negative battery cable part # 6297651AV
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« Reply #16 on: October 28, 2013, 09:22:49 AM »

Thanks for the info on the tumbling. Next question. A lot of the original wheels we have are date code senitive and some of the stamping can be very lite at times. Has anybody had problem with blasting or tumbling and loose any of the stamping? Also once your ready to powder coat and paint that coud make the stamping very hard to read and maybe not see it at all. Is anybody doing anything special to prevent this?
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Rick
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« Reply #17 on: October 28, 2013, 10:29:10 AM »

The only such tumbler I've personally seen was quite a large one which a friend of mine had in his auto electric repair shop (they did alternators, starters, generators,etc).    Their tumbler was pretty large and had a 'rotating bracketry inside it which made the media and the parts move around as it rotated.   Their tumbler used like steel shot (beads) and a solvent, and they used it mostly to clean aluminum housing parts.  He once volunteered to do an aluminum manifold for me, and what I remember most is that it made a hell of a racket as the manifold tumbled around in there, but I also recall the manifold coming out very clean and nice.   I think a manifold would be about the largest item that would have fit inside the one he had...
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
90 ZR1 red/red #246, 90 ZR1 white/gray #2466
72 El Camino, '55 Nomad, '57 Nomad, '57 B/A Sedan
69Z28-RS
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« Reply #18 on: October 28, 2013, 10:37:36 AM »

Thanks for the info on the tumbling. Next question. A lot of the original wheels we have are date code senitive and some of the stamping can be very lite at times. Has anybody had problem with blasting or tumbling and loose any of the stamping? Also once your ready to powder coat and paint that coud make the stamping very hard to read and maybe not see it at all. Is anybody doing anything special to prevent this?

I do my own sandblasting, using an old 'Truman/TIP' sandblaster (100 lb model), and at a pressure under 100 psi (typically maybe 75 to 80 lbs), and I've always found the stamped codes come out easier to read than before.  But I'm sure if the sandblaster were operated at higher pressure, OR if the operator concentrated on one area too long it might possibly harm an original surface (One should keep it moving continuously, and come back to an area if it needs more cleaning than a once over will do).  Even if the wheel were very rusty, to the point that you could not read the stampings before the blasting, I would believe that careful blasting would aide the legibility, not harm it.
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
90 ZR1 red/red #246, 90 ZR1 white/gray #2466
72 El Camino, '55 Nomad, '57 Nomad, '57 B/A Sedan
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« Reply #19 on: October 28, 2013, 10:43:42 AM »

The only such tumbler I've personally seen was quite a large one which a friend of mine had in his auto electric repair shop (they did alternators, starters, generators,etc).    Their tumbler was pretty large and had a 'rotating bracketry inside it which made the media and the parts move around as it rotated.   Their tumbler used like steel shot (beads) and a solvent, and they used it mostly to clean aluminum housing parts.  He once volunteered to do an aluminum manifold for me, and what I remember most is that it made a hell of a racket as the manifold tumbled around in there, but I also recall the manifold coming out very clean and nice.   I think a manifold would be about the largest item that would have fit inside the one he had...

That was a "Wheelabrator" machine, similar to the machines used by the restorers who "re-skin" aluminum parts - they require a significant investment and expensive proprietary media.

http://www.wheelabratorgroup.com/us/sites/wheelabrator/content/equipment/wheelblast/tumblast_machines.aspx
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« Reply #20 on: October 28, 2013, 07:23:28 PM »

BULLITT65     Have you tried soda blasting ? I've heard nothing but good , but would like to get some opinions from guys on this site before I pick a portable one up to do the rear end. Also heard if some of the media does find it's way in it will dissolve.

My DF wheels for our 68Z restoration became quite complicated as I had them soda blasted, then I neutralized the soda (wash/bath operation), then soaked in evaporust to assist with crevices soda could not reach, next up expoxy primer followed by Dupont hot rod black, and then finally face sprayed with an argent silver. Took both time and expense but wheels look great with no debris in crevices.
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Chick
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« Reply #21 on: October 28, 2013, 07:32:45 PM »

WTG Chick, it takes some time and effort, but IMO well worth it than to have it done half assed.
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
Looking for 3192477 (front) spiral shocks 3192851 (rear) please
Looking for an original LOF soft ray windshield
Looking for original Delco side post negative battery cable part # 6297651AV
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« Reply #22 on: October 29, 2013, 09:51:30 AM »

Chick,  When you were done with your wheels did you have any problems seeing the date codes. My problem is the stamping is so lite I feel a couple coats of paint will make them unreadable.
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« Reply #23 on: October 29, 2013, 10:05:40 AM »

When it comes to seeing the date codes, if they are faint to begin with and I was concerned with not being able to see them on the finished product, you would probably not want to powder coat them. Painting you have a little more flexibility with how heavy you go, powder coating seems to be pretty thick, (which I think adds to its strength).
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
Looking for 3192477 (front) spiral shocks 3192851 (rear) please
Looking for an original LOF soft ray windshield
Looking for original Delco side post negative battery cable part # 6297651AV
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« Reply #24 on: October 29, 2013, 10:15:53 AM »

Is the black on the back side of the wheels satin, semi-gloss, eggshell, gloss or....HuhHuh



Lol  Sorry I couldnt resist..   Grin
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Darrell Cook

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« Reply #25 on: October 29, 2013, 10:51:15 AM »

*L*..  thanks Darrel!~     (IMO  GM Reconditioning black, which is a satiny, semi-glossy, semi-flatty black)..  Smiley
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
90 ZR1 red/red #246, 90 ZR1 white/gray #2466
72 El Camino, '55 Nomad, '57 Nomad, '57 B/A Sedan
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« Reply #26 on: October 29, 2013, 10:58:41 AM »

Here's an untouched original "YH" wheel.
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« Reply #27 on: October 29, 2013, 11:33:49 AM »

*L*..  thanks Darrel!~     (IMO  GM Reconditioning black, which is a satiny, semi-glossy, semi-flatty black)..  Smiley


But did GM paint these wheels?
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Darrell Cook

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« Reply #28 on: October 29, 2013, 09:42:42 PM »

I suspect Kelsey painted the wheels prior to delivery to Chevrolet, but I also suspect they were painted to GM specs...
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
90 ZR1 red/red #246, 90 ZR1 white/gray #2466
72 El Camino, '55 Nomad, '57 Nomad, '57 B/A Sedan
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« Reply #29 on: October 30, 2013, 12:17:30 AM »

Well I know, through a different thread, the wheels Kelsey delivered to the dealers parts departments were different and had grey on the inside of the wheel instead of black. So I would think chevrolet painted the wheels, at least the silver portion.
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
Looking for 3192477 (front) spiral shocks 3192851 (rear) please
Looking for an original LOF soft ray windshield
Looking for original Delco side post negative battery cable part # 6297651AV
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« Reply #30 on: October 30, 2013, 09:15:48 AM »

John Z's article is always a go-to source for info.  If not the entire article, read Paint Shop Operations, to include how wheels were shipped in rail cars.
http://www.camaros.org/assemblyprocess.shtml

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« Reply #31 on: October 30, 2013, 10:38:58 AM »

John Z's article is always a go-to source for info.  If not the entire article, read Paint Shop Operations, to include how wheels were shipped in rail cars.
http://www.camaros.org/assemblyprocess.shtml



I have read the assembly process before.  My comment was for rally wheels..  I guess I didnt make that clear..
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Darrell Cook

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« Reply #32 on: October 30, 2013, 03:48:01 PM »

Maybe I read too much into his article, but I always assumed that included rally wheels.  If they shipped them efficiently crammed into rail cars and also final-painted, they would likely be scratched up by time they got onto a car.   
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« Reply #33 on: October 30, 2013, 04:29:52 PM »

Maybe I read too much into his article, but I always assumed that included rally wheels.  If they shipped them efficiently crammed into rail cars and also final-painted, they would likely be scratched up by time they got onto a car.   

You are probably correct just wanted to make sure on the rallys since they would have been a lower in production..
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Darrell Cook

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« Reply #34 on: October 30, 2013, 09:02:54 PM »

We know that Kelsey made the rallye wheels for GM, but did they also make the 'std' steel wheels?  If not, what other suppliers did GM use?
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
90 ZR1 red/red #246, 90 ZR1 white/gray #2466
72 El Camino, '55 Nomad, '57 Nomad, '57 B/A Sedan
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« Reply #35 on: October 31, 2013, 10:07:14 AM »

I found the older thread where JohnZ previously discussed this.  At the bottom:

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=7456.0
 
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« Reply #36 on: October 31, 2013, 10:34:57 AM »

We know that Kelsey made the rallye wheels for GM, but did they also make the 'std' steel wheels?  If not, what other suppliers did GM use?

Kelsey-Hayes was the exclusive supplier of steel passenger car and Corvette wheels to Chevrolet.
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« Reply #37 on: October 31, 2013, 01:53:23 PM »

Thanks John!   I also went to the link posted by Pete, referencing a prior posting you made where you said:
"Production-line wheels were received raw and oiled, dip-primed black, then the outer face was sprayed the required color with wheel enamel. "     

If I understand that correctly, K-H delivered the wheels to each assembly plant unpainted, raw and oiled?  and THEN the assembly plant (Norwood or VN or ?) cleaned, dip primed black, and then sprayed the outer surface with the argent enamel?   Did this happen on the Fisher side? or the Norwood assembly side?   I'm surprised I missed this fact before, and it seems a bit odd to me that they didn't have the wheel supplier provide it 'ready to mount'...??  Or was that same process used for all other major body panels provided by suppliers?    supplied raw and oiled, so every metal part when thru the same cleaning/priming, painting step in the assembly plants?
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
90 ZR1 red/red #246, 90 ZR1 white/gray #2466
72 El Camino, '55 Nomad, '57 Nomad, '57 B/A Sedan
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« Reply #38 on: October 31, 2013, 02:39:32 PM »

I too have learned something..
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« Reply #39 on: November 01, 2013, 12:32:20 AM »

My Orig spare 1967dated Model 1968 14 x 6 Coded "XG" rally wheel is Gray on the back side.

I even think the Book By Colvin has a wheel section and some manufacturing drawings that include painting instructions.

So is it fair to say Black primed wheel base color is NOT,,,,,, a all // every time. You guys might be just talking about 69's,,,,,,,??

Jim
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« Reply #40 on: November 01, 2013, 07:19:24 AM »

Jim,

I think the same thing is true for all the Rallye wheels of the late '60's at least.    Gray paint was applied by Kelsey for 'service wheels', destined to be sold thru the dealerships, rather than production line parts.
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
90 ZR1 red/red #246, 90 ZR1 white/gray #2466
72 El Camino, '55 Nomad, '57 Nomad, '57 B/A Sedan
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« Reply #41 on: November 01, 2013, 09:42:26 AM »

Thanks John!   I also went to the link posted by Pete, referencing a prior posting you made where you said:
"Production-line wheels were received raw and oiled, dip-primed black, then the outer face was sprayed the required color with wheel enamel. "     

If I understand that correctly, K-H delivered the wheels to each assembly plant unpainted, raw and oiled?  and THEN the assembly plant (Norwood or VN or ?) cleaned, dip primed black, and then sprayed the outer surface with the argent enamel?   Did this happen on the Fisher side? or the Norwood assembly side?   I'm surprised I missed this fact before, and it seems a bit odd to me that they didn't have the wheel supplier provide it 'ready to mount'...??  Or was that same process used for all other major body panels provided by suppliers?    supplied raw and oiled, so every metal part when thru the same cleaning/priming, painting step in the assembly plants?

Wheels were received raw, and processed in the Chevrolet side of the plant as I noted in the paper. The same was true of all the Chevrolet-supplied front sheet metal stampings, and all of the body shell stampings were also received raw on the Fisher side of the plant.

Wheels were stacked herringbone-style by the thousands in rail cars, and if they had been painted by Kelsey-Hayes, they'd have been all scratched up by the time the rail car was unloaded.
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« Reply #42 on: November 01, 2013, 09:58:24 AM »

Thanks for confirming John!   
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« Reply #43 on: November 01, 2013, 12:14:49 PM »

When you guys mention scuffing the powder coating on rally wheels before painting them the correct GM argent silver what exactly do you mean?  I am guessing it is because the silver paint won't adhere properly to the smooth powder coating?  How much scuffing is just right and how much is too much?  Would you use a fine grit sandpaper to do it?  Thank you. 
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« Reply #44 on: November 01, 2013, 12:22:17 PM »

Does anybody have a ball park fiqure on the cost of blasting and powerder coating a set of rim's?
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« Reply #45 on: November 01, 2013, 12:54:47 PM »

To the best of my recollection I paid around $400 to have a set of 4 rally wheels sand blasted and powder coated. 
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« Reply #46 on: November 01, 2013, 01:38:06 PM »

I would say between $200 and $400. I had a lot of pieces for my impala and Chevelle powder coated, and developed a good rapport with the powder coater. So I was able to work out deals for the same color pieces. Ex: bumper brackets, pulleys, upper and lower A arms.
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« Reply #47 on: November 01, 2013, 01:54:35 PM »

Thanks guys. I appreciated the input.
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« Reply #48 on: November 01, 2013, 03:06:19 PM »

When you guys mention scuffing the powder coating on rally wheels before painting them the correct GM argent silver what exactly do you mean?  I am guessing it is because the silver paint won't adhere properly to the smooth powder coating?  How much scuffing is just right and how much is too much?  Would you use a fine grit sandpaper to do it?  Thank you. 
It will stick to the powder, but I wouldn't want to chance it flaking off in the future, and as I have seen the powder coated finish has a bit of a orange peel look to it, so sanding would also help remove some of that. So then when you spray the silver it will appear more natural or more factory correct than just the powder alone.
As far as "scuffing" powder is pretty hard stuff, I think 400 or even 300 would be fine. I would start with the inside of the wheel and try a couple test spots that won't be seen to get your desired sanding and spray it let it dry and see how you like the appearance.
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
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« Reply #49 on: November 01, 2013, 07:28:48 PM »

Thanks for the input.
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« Reply #50 on: November 01, 2013, 10:46:15 PM »

Jim,

I think the same thing is true for all the Rallye wheels of the late '60's at least.    Gray paint was applied by Kelsey for 'service wheels', destined to be sold thru the dealerships, rather than production line parts.

What I meant to say is ALL (5) of my ORIG factory (LOS) installed 76kmi rallys wheel are KH gray on the back side. There is NO black. I have owned the car since 83. I am convinced my car was purchased with the similarly dated orig factory wheels.



FWIW Colvin Book FIG 17-8 1969 14x7 jj standard wheel Kelsey Hays drawing number 082153  seems to confirm that wheels were part numbered with varying finishes ,,,plain, rustproof oiled,,, primed KH spec 3323 black..,,,,
Interesting.
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« Reply #51 on: November 20, 2013, 01:07:27 AM »

I have seen other original Camaro wheels with gray backs.
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« Reply #52 on: November 20, 2013, 11:20:58 AM »

.....
FWIW Colvin Book FIG 17-8 1969 14x7 jj standard wheel Kelsey Hays drawing number 082153  seems to confirm that wheels were part numbered with varying finishes ,,,plain, rustproof oiled,,, primed KH spec 3323 black..,,,,
Interesting.

I don't have the Colvin book, but I'd love to see that KH drawing and part numbers; would it be possible to scan it and post the image here as a reference?
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« Reply #53 on: November 20, 2013, 11:41:35 AM »

Should be a number on the inside of the wheels ,very prevalent. White.

I've questioned before same number is on top of my fuel tank in red/orange and undersides of front fenders/cowl. I didn't see the ones on the front clip but my body man snapped shots.
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« Reply #54 on: February 20, 2014, 11:18:31 PM »

..... a set of powder coated wheels in the correct argent silver on my impala. While they will never rust I have a couple of issues with them. Along with the wheels and anything else as Gary mentioned powder coated items have a different sheen to them, so on the wheels it looks like a slight orange peel affect.

I had my wheels powder coated semi-gloss black on the back side and OD first (which is how they were originally), then argent silver on the front.  As far as I am concerned, they came out very nice.  Finish looks good to me.  Comparing them to my spare (which I did not powder coat - left original), the only difference I note is the difference between "new" color on my four wheels vs. a "45 year old color" on the spare.  The slight difference in sheen in my mind is simply a difference in age.

Richard
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Richard Thomas
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« Reply #55 on: March 30, 2014, 09:50:28 AM »

Great looking wheel Rich !  Is the silver powder coated as well ?  If it is powder coated  was there any problem with the second bake on the  back side ?
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« Reply #56 on: March 30, 2014, 08:20:54 PM »

Chick,  When you were done with your wheels did you have any problems seeing the date codes. My problem is the stamping is so lite I feel a couple coats of paint will make them unreadable.
Sorry I missed this question originally! No, no problem on mine but in many cases its just masking off the area and keeping that area very light with paint.
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« Reply #57 on: March 31, 2014, 10:01:01 AM »


Does the standard procedure apply to YA SS wheels as well, were they masked/painted at the assembly plants, reason I ask is I have never see an original paint YA with anything other than gray on the reverse.
 
 
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James
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« Reply #58 on: March 31, 2014, 10:33:13 AM »


Does the standard procedure apply to YA SS wheels as well, were they masked/painted at the assembly plants, reason I ask is I have never see an original paint YA with anything other than gray on the reverse.

I think you're seeing Service wheels, which were painted grey so they wouldn't rust in depot storage. Wheels were jammed by the thousands herringbone-style in rail cars, and if they were final-painted at Kelsey-Hayes, they'd have been badly nicked, chipped, and scratched before they ever got to the tire mount/balance equipment. You had to be there to understand what a rail car full of wheels looked like when they opened it.
 
 

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« Reply #59 on: April 02, 2014, 01:26:52 PM »

Great looking wheel Rich !  Is the silver powder coated as well ?  If it is powder coated  was there any problem with the second bake on the  back side ?

Silver is powder coated as well.  Powder coater didn't have any issue.  Did the OD and back first in semi gloss black and then the front in argent silver.
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« Reply #60 on: April 02, 2014, 03:40:27 PM »

Chick,  When you were done with your wheels did you have any problems seeing the date codes. My problem is the stamping is so lite I feel a couple coats of paint will make them unreadable.
Sorry I missed this question originally! No, no problem on mine but in many cases its just masking off the area and keeping that area very light with paint.


Thanks Chick, It looks like your wheels were stamped with a lot heaver hand than mine were. I definitely will mask that section off as to not get too much paint there. And I'll also take a good picture of the stamping on each wheel before I do any painting or powder coating.
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« Reply #61 on: April 02, 2014, 10:32:03 PM »

Thanks Rich, I am going to try it on mine at home.

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« Reply #62 on: May 05, 2014, 09:51:45 PM »


Does the standard procedure apply to YA SS wheels as well, were they masked/painted at the assembly plants, reason I ask is I have never see an original paint YA with anything other than gray on the reverse.

I think you're seeing Service wheels, which were painted grey so they wouldn't rust in depot storage. Wheels were jammed by the thousands herringbone-style in rail cars, and if they were final-painted at Kelsey-Hayes, they'd have been badly nicked, chipped, and scratched before they ever got to the tire mount/balance equipment. You had to be there to understand what a rail car full of wheels looked like when they opened it.
 
 



I did a little research and The NORWOOD built 69 Trans Ams survivors which have been unearthed have grey backed Ralley II's.
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James
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Check out the Black 69 RS/Z28 45k mile Survivor and the Lemans Blue 69 Z 10D frame off...
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