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Author Topic: Correct Centre Link finish  (Read 2068 times)
69Z28freak
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« on: May 22, 2013, 07:19:24 PM »

I blasted the centrelink and wondering how to get the best original looking finish so it will not rust.



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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
Hans L
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« Reply #1 on: May 23, 2013, 01:06:55 PM »

I believe natural metal finish.

Here's mine removed and then restored  Note factory paint dubs/smear: 






And restored - degreased, light glass bead, Boeshield to protect surface from rust.   Note that I didn't re-apply the big pink blob....


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http://www.littooy.com/hans/
'69 Camaro RS Z/28 Van Nuys Built
69Z28freak
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« Reply #2 on: May 23, 2013, 01:14:21 PM »

Hey Hans looks really good. What did you use to paint your subframe. How about the tie rods and other steering parts, are they new or did you restore them. All the parts have the same looking finish.
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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
Hans L
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« Reply #3 on: May 23, 2013, 05:50:13 PM »

Thanks.   Subframe was sand plasted, primed and then I applied a coat of 30% gloss lacquer...

The tie-rods are new (I still have the originals, may get rebuilt and install later); everything else is original, but was either lightly glass beaded or run through electrolysis to de-rust.   Boeshield is all I applied.   No rust at all to date.  Every bolt is original as well - glass beaded and replated/phospated.   Been fun, but very slow resto project.

Here's some before shots:



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'69 Camaro RS Z/28 Van Nuys Built
cook_dw
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« Reply #4 on: May 23, 2013, 07:52:02 PM »

Would any of the center links be painted?  I have one that was painted black with white inspections paint dabs..  Its the larger link might have been off of a Nova with A/C but can not remember for certain.
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Darrell Cook
69Z28freak
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« Reply #5 on: May 23, 2013, 08:18:33 PM »

I didn't know you could restore tie rods. I opted for all new parts as I wanted to make sure that I have a safe set up. All of my steering parts were original. HBC has a made in USA suspension kit that I ordered.

My subframe was just blasted and it getting powder coated.

What is the finish on the steering box?

I really like the finishes on your car. They look great. I am hoping to have  the same result if possible.

Did you re finish your drive shaft. I would like to compare notes with you so that I can get the best results.

Thanks

Here are a few pics.





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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
69Z28freak
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« Reply #6 on: May 23, 2013, 08:22:29 PM »

I didn't know you could restore tie rods. I opted for all new parts as I wanted to make sure that I have a safe set up. All of my steering parts were original. HBC has a made in USA suspension kit that I ordered.

My subframe was just blasted and it getting powder coated.

What is the finish on the steering box & coil springs?

I really like the finishes on your car. They look great. I am hoping to have  the same result if possible.

Did you re finish your drive shaft. I would like to compare notes with you so that I can get the best results.

Thanks

Here are a few pics.






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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
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« Reply #7 on: May 23, 2013, 09:26:26 PM »

The drag link should be a blued steel. You can get it by using a good gun blue. I used gun blue on mine and treated it with sharkhide.  I also finished my idler arm and drive shaft with sharkhide. The main mounting shaft for the idler arm should have the sameblue finish, the rest of the idler arm is natural steel.. I am sending a picture.
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69Z28freak
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« Reply #8 on: May 23, 2013, 10:09:21 PM »

The drag link should be a blued steel. You can get it by using a good gun blue. I used gun blue on mine and treated it with sharkhide.  I also finished my idler arm and drive shaft with sharkhide. The main mounting shaft for the idler arm should have the sameblue finish, the rest of the idler arm is natural steel.. I am sending a picture.

Can you post a pick of your drive shaft?
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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
BillOhio
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« Reply #9 on: June 04, 2013, 07:27:42 AM »

I blued mine also along with arm that goes to frame. On mine the arm was clean enough you could see the dark finish. There was a nos one on eBay showing the color also.very easy to do and cheap!
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1969 Z28, Burgandy, numbers matching, 12,900 miles
1967 Plymouth GTX Hemi, 4 speed, dana
NoYenko
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« Reply #10 on: June 04, 2013, 08:31:35 AM »

I debated with refinishing my original center link but decided to leave as is. The forged uneven finish would be hard to duplicate. Here are a couple pictures. George
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68camaroz28
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« Reply #11 on: June 04, 2013, 08:55:04 PM »

George brings up a good point and one that should limit the preparation so not to harm the orig. finish. I had never read or saw a center link blued until I did mine two years ago (man how time files) and documented on my build thread ( http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584&page=14 ) here on page 14. Maybe it caught on or I was in the dark all along but never liked the look of cast blast colored links that never looked like that due to being a forging. I'd recommend not glass beading so the material is not altered and only removing grease and dirt via light detergents and soft wire brushing. Soaked mine in evapo-rust also! After cleaning I wire brushed it two complete times and cleaned with wax and grease remover three times prior to a simple bluing. After bluing neutralize with fantastic or 409 and I then protected mine with "rust prevention magic". I've completed a couple and they look great IMHO.



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Chick
68 Z/28 NOR 01B Orig motor/trans/rear
69 Z/28 NOR 07A Orig Block & GM Cross-ram/carbs
69 L34 Rest. Nova Father/Son Car
69 L78 Surv Nova Purch 4/69 31K miles
67 L89 Corv Tribute
68 Corv 427/400 Orig motor
07 Corv Z06
R 68Z build- http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584
68camaroz28
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« Reply #12 on: June 04, 2013, 09:07:31 PM »

Our Idler Arm black portion of the arm that mounts to the frame had a different look than the center link. It was a black natural finish but did not have the black/blue forging look the center link had but luckily on ours that portion of the arm is all original and has not been altered.  Some before and after pics.




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Chick
68 Z/28 NOR 01B Orig motor/trans/rear
69 Z/28 NOR 07A Orig Block & GM Cross-ram/carbs
69 L34 Rest. Nova Father/Son Car
69 L78 Surv Nova Purch 4/69 31K miles
67 L89 Corv Tribute
68 Corv 427/400 Orig motor
07 Corv Z06
R 68Z build- http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584
68camaroz28
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« Reply #13 on: June 04, 2013, 09:32:16 PM »

Did you re finish your drive shaft. I would like to compare notes with you so that I can get the best results.



Since the drive shaft was basically a steel tube with a part welded at each end we had ours placed on a lathe so we could remove some of the tubes roughness and pits from rust normally toward the rear. A little tip in detail involves taping off and bluing the weld area since our weld area got polished somewhat in the resto process.

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Chick
68 Z/28 NOR 01B Orig motor/trans/rear
69 Z/28 NOR 07A Orig Block & GM Cross-ram/carbs
69 L34 Rest. Nova Father/Son Car
69 L78 Surv Nova Purch 4/69 31K miles
67 L89 Corv Tribute
68 Corv 427/400 Orig motor
07 Corv Z06
R 68Z build- http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584
Sauron327
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« Reply #14 on: June 04, 2013, 09:43:50 PM »

People with no industry experience see a sandblasted clean part and assume that's what the metal originally looked like. Same with coil springs. Most are sprayed with Cast Blast or silver paint and look nothing like a freshly manufactured part. Go walk through a steel supplier, spring shop or watch a blacksmith to see how metal's appearance is affected by heat. "Cast" Blast is what the name impies and is not what forged metal looks like.
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