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Author Topic: Drive Shaft Restoration  (Read 4698 times)
69Z28freak
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« on: May 12, 2013, 12:28:03 AM »

I am looking to get the original finish on my drive shaft, but I have never seen a picture of what a new one would look like. Does anyone have a picture of a new drive shaft or a drive shaft that is restored to factory specs. I have sen several versions of restored drive shafts, but would like to know which is correct.

My Team Camaro Thread

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=219126
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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
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« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2013, 10:47:44 AM »

Tough to impossible if it is badly rusted. Drive shafts were not coated in any way; new they had an appearance very similar to exhaust tubing. They were marked with stripes denoting balance and application but there is no factory documentation on color/position. Got rusty fairly quickly.

Simplest way to restore it? Have a new tube installed. Painting a rusted 'shaft silver doesn't get the job done.
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Mike S
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« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2013, 11:34:44 AM »

Simplest way to restore it? Have a new tube installed. Painting a rusted 'shaft silver doesn't get the job done.
 I agree...this is how I had the one restored on my 67 ragtop. The original tube had a ding in it when it dropped one day racing that caused a slight vibration in the stick. Once I got the restored shaft I gave it a coat of Imron clear and once installed the vibration was completely gone and it looked good and correct once the stripes were added back.
   Besides, when it is under the car, who really studies the shaft in detail outside for looking for stripes unless you are going for a 1000 point event.

Mike
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67 LOS SS/RS L35 Hardtop - Original w/UOIT
67 NOR SS/RS L35 Convertible - Restored
69Z28freak
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« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2013, 08:45:17 PM »

I decided to try an experiment and use a mild wire wheel on the drive shaft to see how it would turn out. I tried a small spot and liked the result so I did the whole drive shaft. It only took a few minutes at very light pressure. I may take some fine steel wool to finish it off. I may also clear it. Blasting it would give it a much duller finish.











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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
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« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2013, 08:53:47 PM »

 That looks pretty darn good. If that were mine I'd go with it.


Mike
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« Reply #5 on: May 12, 2013, 08:58:44 PM »

I agree with Mike.  it does look good, probably as good as possible, and I would also protect it.  with satin clear or ??..      *S*
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
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69Z28freak
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« Reply #6 on: May 12, 2013, 09:05:13 PM »

I agree with Mike.  it does look good, probably as good as possible, and I would also protect it.  with satin clear or ??..      *S*

Hey Gary that is what I was thinking. I am going to look into some clear products as I am also thinking of spray some of the other bare metal parts like the centre link parts of the tie rods and steering parts as well. Perhaps power steering pump as well. I want to maintain the restored look and want to avoid the bare metal parts from rusting. Master cylinder as well possibly. However I am also told that master cylinders cam in black gloss as well from the factory. Boeshield or RPM is also an option, but it would take regular maintenance for upkeep to ensure that rust does not develop, and on bare metal it does not take much to begin the process from starting.
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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
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« Reply #7 on: May 13, 2013, 06:29:58 AM »

Tons of info on here from members.

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=7861.0
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william
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« Reply #8 on: May 13, 2013, 12:35:17 PM »

A non-abrasive method of rust removal is to use a length of plastic pipe. Cap one end, drop the driveshaft in. Fill with de-rusting solution, cap. A few days later, as clean as can be.

I believe that was how the '72 Trans-Am resto drive shaft got done on the SYC site. Wire wheeling won't get all the pitting and may destroy what is left of the factory markings.
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69Z28-RS
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« Reply #9 on: May 13, 2013, 12:53:04 PM »

so NOW ya tell us..   Smiley ..

Thanks...
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
90 ZR1 red/red #246, 90 ZR1 white/gray #2466
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69Z28freak
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« Reply #10 on: May 13, 2013, 04:05:55 PM »

A non-abrasive method of rust removal is to use a length of plastic pipe. Cap one end, drop the driveshaft in. Fill with de-rusting solution, cap. A few days later, as clean as can be.

I believe that was how the '72 Trans-Am resto drive shaft got done on the SYC site. Wire wheeling won't get all the pitting and may destroy what is left of the factory markings.

Hey William that is how I removed the rust from drive shaft with Evaporust. Then I used the wheel to minimize the pitting. How far off is my finish?
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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
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« Reply #11 on: May 13, 2013, 04:17:33 PM »

A non-abrasive method of rust removal is to use a length of plastic pipe. Cap one end, drop the driveshaft in. Fill with de-rusting solution, cap. A few days later, as clean as can be.

Gesh...I use that method for restoring antique gun barrels prior to parkerizing. I never thought of using it on something like this!

Mike
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67 LOS SS/RS L35 Hardtop - Original w/UOIT
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william
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« Reply #12 on: May 13, 2013, 05:45:09 PM »

A non-abrasive method of rust removal is to use a length of plastic pipe. Cap one end, drop the driveshaft in. Fill with de-rusting solution, cap. A few days later, as clean as can be.

I believe that was how the '72 Trans-Am resto drive shaft got done on the SYC site. Wire wheeling won't get all the pitting and may destroy what is left of the factory markings.

Hey William that is how I removed the rust from drive shaft with Evaporust. Then I used the wheel to minimize the pitting. How far off is my finish?


Not bad-you can see where the factory stripes were and that is the original finish. For a driver I'd use it.
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69Z28freak
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« Reply #13 on: May 13, 2013, 06:47:23 PM »

A non-abrasive method of rust removal is to use a length of plastic pipe. Cap one end, drop the driveshaft in. Fill with de-rusting solution, cap. A few days later, as clean as can be.

I believe that was how the '72 Trans-Am resto drive shaft got done on the SYC site. Wire wheeling won't get all the pitting and may destroy what is left of the factory markings.

Hey William that is how I removed the rust from drive shaft with Evaporust. Then I used the wheel to minimize the pitting. How far off is my finish?


Not bad-you can see where the factory stripes were and that is the original finish. For a driver I'd use it.

Thanks William. I was planning to put the stripes back on. Do you know what color I should use? Then I was thinking of clearing the drive shaft with a satin finish. Would that be acceptable for a driver?
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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
69Z28freak
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« Reply #14 on: May 13, 2013, 07:18:30 PM »

Here are a few more pics of the drive shaft.









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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
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« Reply #15 on: May 14, 2013, 05:30:38 PM »

What I have seen is white/orange/yellow[?] L-R. Stripes were about 10" back of the trans yoke CL. Maybe have it checked for balance while it is out.

Definitely put some coating on it or you will be back where you started from shortly.
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69Z28freak
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« Reply #16 on: May 14, 2013, 11:18:02 PM »

What I have seen is white/orange/yellow[?] L-R. Stripes were about 10" back of the trans yoke CL. Maybe have it checked for balance while it is out.

Definitely put some coating on it or you will be back where you started from shortly.

Thanks William. What coating do you recommend?
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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
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« Reply #17 on: May 15, 2013, 11:49:20 PM »

I've been using Boeshield on the cast iron suspension parts as well on some of the stamped metal.   Seems to work pretty good - no rust on those parts yet, but they haven't left the garage yet either.
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« Reply #18 on: May 16, 2013, 12:13:41 AM »

I've been using Boeshield on the cast iron suspension parts as well on some of the stamped metal.   Seems to work pretty good - no rust on those parts yet, but they haven't left the garage yet either.

Thanks Hans. I heard great things about Boeshield. However I was thinking of possibly applying a satin clear coat to most of the metal parts. I will continie to research before I decide for certain. If I don't clear coat Boeshield is a major contender at this point.
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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
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« Reply #19 on: May 20, 2013, 07:09:28 PM »

I am wondering what the correct stripe configuration should be for a 69Z/28. Here is an original drive shaft.

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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
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« Reply #20 on: May 20, 2013, 08:38:52 PM »

I thought William covered that in the reply #15 above.
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Jerry G.

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« Reply #21 on: May 20, 2013, 08:43:07 PM »

I thought William covered that in the reply #15 above.

My 6 cylinder drive shaft was about 10 inches back from the yoke, but the original in the photo starts further back and the spacing on stripes is totally different. I am wondering if the spacing matters or if there was several variations that were followed
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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
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« Reply #22 on: May 21, 2013, 11:58:33 AM »

I thought William covered that in the reply #15 above.

My 6 cylinder drive shaft was about 10 inches back from the yoke, but the original in the photo starts further back and the spacing on stripes is totally different. I am wondering if the spacing matters or if there was several variations that were followed

There were many variations - applying the stripes to a spinning driveshaft wasn't a "precision" operation.
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« Reply #23 on: May 21, 2013, 12:13:09 PM »

Quote

There were many variations - applying the stripes to a spinning driveshaft wasn't a "precision" operation.

 The shafts were rotating when stripes applied?

Mike
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69Z28freak
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« Reply #24 on: May 21, 2013, 01:37:31 PM »

I thought William covered that in the reply #15 above.

My 6 cylinder drive shaft was about 10 inches back from the yoke, but the original in the photo starts further back and the spacing on stripes is totally different. I am wondering if the spacing matters or if there was several variations that were followed

There were many variations - applying the stripes to a spinning driveshaft wasn't a "precision" operation.

So I take it when restoring a drive shaft it does not make a lot of difference where the stripes go, for the most part. However it does appear that there was specific color coding based on models.
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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
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« Reply #25 on: May 22, 2013, 10:52:24 AM »

Quote

There were many variations - applying the stripes to a spinning driveshaft wasn't a "precision" operation.

 The shafts were rotating when stripes applied?

Mike

Yes. Chevrolet-Warren made thousands of driveshafts every day, and the stripes were brush-applied with the shaft rotating.
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« Reply #26 on: May 22, 2013, 12:37:52 PM »

Quote

There were many variations - applying the stripes to a spinning driveshaft wasn't a "precision" operation.

 The shafts were rotating when stripes applied?

Mike

Yes. Chevrolet-Warren made thousands of driveshafts every day, and the stripes were brush-applied with the shaft rotating.

Excellent information John. Thank you.
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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
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« Reply #27 on: August 27, 2013, 09:12:51 PM »

I used the Evaporust in a 5" PVC tube method to clean up my drive shaft and was amazed at the results. I soaked it for 2 days and rinsed with scotch-brite pad.
Thanks CRG members. Finished pictures & before.  George.
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Hans L
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« Reply #28 on: August 28, 2013, 09:39:54 AM »

I used the Evaporust in a 5" PVC tube method to clean up my drive shaft and was amazed at the results. I soaked it for 2 days and rinsed with scotch-brite pad.
Thanks CRG members. Finished pictures & before.  George.

Indeed.  Looks fantastic.   Now I'm gonna have to try this!  One of the last components I still need to restore before putting the whole car back together.
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« Reply #29 on: August 28, 2013, 10:00:57 AM »

I used the Evaporust in a 5" PVC tube method to clean up my drive shaft and was amazed at the results. I soaked it for 2 days and rinsed with scotch-brite pad.
Thanks CRG members. Finished pictures & before.  George.
Did you consider not scrubbing the area with the paint stripes?   Were the paint stripes still legible after the soaking with evaporust?
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
90 ZR1 red/red #246, 90 ZR1 white/gray #2466
72 El Camino, '55 Nomad, '57 Nomad, '57 B/A Sedan
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« Reply #30 on: August 28, 2013, 01:31:46 PM »

I need to thank Chick for originally turning me on to Evaporust. It really works great even on slightly rusted parts. The paint stripes were gone after taking it out of the solution before I hit it with scotch-brite. George.
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69Z28-RS
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« Reply #31 on: August 28, 2013, 01:45:01 PM »

Evaporust isn't supposed to removed paint, so apparently there wasn't much there that wasn't 'integrated' with the rust/dirt... Smiley  I don't think GM expected anything to be there after 44 yrs anyway.. Smiley
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
90 ZR1 red/red #246, 90 ZR1 white/gray #2466
72 El Camino, '55 Nomad, '57 Nomad, '57 B/A Sedan
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« Reply #32 on: August 28, 2013, 06:06:22 PM »

Evaporust isn't supposed to removed paint, so apparently there wasn't much there that wasn't 'integrated' with the rust/dirt... Smiley  I don't think GM expected anything to be there after 44 yrs anyway.. Smiley
If you leave a part in the solution for a minimal length of time it won't remove the paint.  If you leave a part in the solution for two days, as mentioned about the driveshaft,the paint will become very soft and easily removed by wiping or brushing.
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Jerry G.

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« Reply #33 on: August 28, 2013, 08:04:35 PM »

Evaporust isn't supposed to removed paint, so apparently there wasn't much there that wasn't 'integrated' with the rust/dirt... Smiley  I don't think GM expected anything to be there after 44 yrs anyway.. Smiley
If you leave a part in the solution for a minimal length of time it won't remove the paint.  If you leave a part in the solution for two days, as mentioned about the driveshaft,the paint will become very soft and easily removed by wiping or brushing.

Guess it depends Jerry as I had soaked mine for two days but this is what I found after the first day of soaking. Guess some had seen what I used a couple years ago concerning the 4" PVC capped tube with two gallon of evaporust.
As anyone can imagine I was quite happy with what I found and it was not noticed before the cleaning. I should add I had the drive-shaft then completed by Quanta to remove the pits that were in the tube near the rear section and then duplicated the paint found on the yokes and drive-shaft.





the PCV 4" tube I made up and the first drive-shaft which was out of a 69 Camaro 307/automatic.


P.S. Thanks George.......
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