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Author Topic: 1969 Z/28 questions  (Read 3616 times)
ban617
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« on: May 04, 2013, 03:03:22 PM »

    Hello ,  I have a  question ,  How much does it hurt the value of a car not the original color? The color is supposed to be Daytona Yellow..  What is  everyone using for body  and A-arm bushings? Poly or Rubber? Also are the original fuel and brake lines being used ? Clean and clear them or just replace with all stainless lines? I want to get started on this project .I would like to get the bushings and or lines before tear down... 

    My car is a VanNuys built Z/28 Born with Engine,Trans and Rearend BV code ... Standard interior, console, gauges, AM-FM Blue dot Thanks Rob
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lcmc
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« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2013, 06:04:15 PM »

To me none correct color devalues the car the cost to repaint.
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Danny
1969 Z/28 X77
1970 Nova L78 9300 original miles
68camaroz28
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« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2013, 06:17:19 PM »

    Hello ,  I have a  question ,  How much does it hurt the value of a car not the original color? The color is supposed to be Daytona Yellow..  What is  everyone using for body  and A-arm bushings? Poly or Rubber? Also are the original fuel and brake lines being used ? Clean and clear them or just replace with all stainless lines? I want to get started on this project .I would like to get the bushings and or lines before tear down... 

    My car is a VanNuys built Z/28 Born with Engine,Trans and Rearend BV code ... Standard interior, console, gauges, AM-FM Blue dot Thanks Rob

Rob, have you done any searching for some of your questions? Reason, you can find many threads that deal with each and that gives you more to assist with what direction you go. Yes, use stock type brake/gas lines and many utilize stainless for street cars but they can be more difficult to work with but stay nice. The steel lines can be kept nice if you protect them a few times a year. Search threads on the poly thing as well as that has been discussed many, many times. Search team camaro as well.
Good luck and neat car......
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Chick
68 Z/28 NOR 01B Orig motor/trans/rear
69 Z/28 NOR 07A Orig Block & GM Cross-ram/carbs
69 L34 Rest. Nova Father/Son Car
69 L78 Surv Nova Purch 4/69 31K miles
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KurtS
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« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2013, 12:31:12 AM »

I wouldn't do stainless lines ever. What problem are you trying to fix with the stainless?
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Kurt S
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ban617
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« Reply #4 on: May 05, 2013, 02:06:33 AM »

 No problem that I know of .. The car still has all the original lines on it at this point I believe .. just didn't know how to clean them  and  preserve them..
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janobyte
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« Reply #5 on: May 05, 2013, 08:15:02 AM »

As far as bushings it depends on your application: cruising ,pro tour ,drag  racing? Poly will give a firmer ride ( I've heard rigid) I like the feel of my car and am replacing with rubber. If the lines are in good shape, no shale or corrosion , re-use. I am mine. I've used Mothers mag polish in the past to clean them up. Just a suggestion. Paint....I have beat this around for 20 years, even to bother repainting at all. IMO if it's a numbers car ( engine, trans, driveline) return her the way she was born. I think a color change might devalue ,but I agree to the point of a re spray. Not saying that someone just might love the color you picked and will pay. I must admit there probably is a reason you don't see a lot of ash gold Camaros. But years ago I was running at Super Chevy and this guy came down to the pits asking me the color, he loved it, different. Gave him the code ,sent  him away happy.
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BillOhio
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« Reply #6 on: May 05, 2013, 12:09:34 PM »

Poly bushings have been known to squeak. Would be a lot of work to change them out.
I agree on paint, matching numbers should be the correct color. I wouldn't buy a car in a color I didn't like matching numbers or not anyway
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1969 Z28, Burgandy, numbers matching, 12,900 miles
1967 Plymouth GTX Hemi, 4 speed, dana
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Everett#2390
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« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2013, 12:13:53 PM »

If you use a stainless steel tubing line and cannot get the joint to seal, I suggest try the following methods,
1. a drop of oil behind the tubing flare and before the nut, if it still leaks,
2. visit a hydraulic/pneumatic hose shop and purchase some copper crush flare washers and fit them between the fitting/adapter and tube flare.
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lakeholme
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« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2013, 06:46:45 PM »

To me none correct color devalues the car the cost to repaint.
Absolutely!
What would be your purpose in painting it? Preference? Originality?
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Phillip
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ban617
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« Reply #9 on: May 05, 2013, 09:42:10 PM »

 Thanks ,everyone I will keep it Daytona Yellow , Also keep all the oem style rubber bushings ....I just didn't know if the bushings available  for the subframe had the GM part #as the originals.. I am trying to keep as stock as possible .. The original bushings are showing some cracking ....There is one part that I don't have for the car yet which is the Endura bumper ... I have all the brackets so I am half way there ... The car still has the reverse lockout ,also has the smog setup still on it .... Its a March car would it have the chambered exhaust ? Also which spoiler on the trunk lid short or long ? I like the short one personally ..
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janobyte
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« Reply #10 on: May 06, 2013, 06:50:12 PM »

Post some pics! This is a wonderful site, do your research on it and most of your questions will be answered. Pick up Jerry M's books on Camaros (CHP) and don't be afraid to farm out your parts to him, stand up guy. I don't need to but if I did I'd have no problems shipping my 302 to him. Also follow up on this sites links for parts. I'm freshening my  68 Z now , taking it slow, no hurry. Shooting for Camaro nats next June. Good luck to you and hope any of my input helps.
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janobyte
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« Reply #11 on: May 06, 2013, 06:59:33 PM »

BAN 617 ANOTHER THING, Beware of ebay, I browse it for fun and most of what I see is junk, P's me off what they get away with for description! Trust the guys on this site and like I said the links associated with it. Real car guys like to wheel and deal but It's always best when both parties make out and walk away happy.
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tmodel66
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« Reply #12 on: May 06, 2013, 07:41:00 PM »

I wouldn't do stainless lines ever. What problem are you trying to fix with the stainless?

Hey KurtS could you elaborate a little on why you wouldn't ever use stainless? I used it for fuel and brake lines and they were a good fit and look great. A few on this site recommended stainless because I ask before I bought all this stuff. IIRC I think JohnZ actually recommended stainless but don't take that to the bank. IIRC he also recommended InLine Tube. I'm just confused and it has been a couple years since all this took place.
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Daniel  
'69 SS 350/4 speed  Fathom Green--POP
janobyte
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« Reply #13 on: May 06, 2013, 08:36:00 PM »

Hey KurtS could you elaborate a little on why you wouldn't ever use stainless? I used it for fuel and brake lines and they were a good fit and look great.

I was wondering also, used stainless on other projects without problem. Not using on the Z because the OE lines are like new ,otherwise I would have.
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DavidS
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« Reply #14 on: May 06, 2013, 08:39:09 PM »

Hey KurtS could you elaborate a little on why you wouldn't ever use stainless?

Good question.

My best guess is that for a "100% technically correct" restoration you would not use stainless.

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