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Author Topic: 1969 Z/28 questions  (Read 2756 times)
ban617
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« on: May 04, 2013, 03:03:22 PM »

    Hello ,  I have a  question ,  How much does it hurt the value of a car not the original color? The color is supposed to be Daytona Yellow..  What is  everyone using for body  and A-arm bushings? Poly or Rubber? Also are the original fuel and brake lines being used ? Clean and clear them or just replace with all stainless lines? I want to get started on this project .I would like to get the bushings and or lines before tear down... 

    My car is a VanNuys built Z/28 Born with Engine,Trans and Rearend BV code ... Standard interior, console, gauges, AM-FM Blue dot Thanks Rob
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lcmc
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« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2013, 06:04:15 PM »

To me none correct color devalues the car the cost to repaint.
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Danny
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« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2013, 06:17:19 PM »

    Hello ,  I have a  question ,  How much does it hurt the value of a car not the original color? The color is supposed to be Daytona Yellow..  What is  everyone using for body  and A-arm bushings? Poly or Rubber? Also are the original fuel and brake lines being used ? Clean and clear them or just replace with all stainless lines? I want to get started on this project .I would like to get the bushings and or lines before tear down... 

    My car is a VanNuys built Z/28 Born with Engine,Trans and Rearend BV code ... Standard interior, console, gauges, AM-FM Blue dot Thanks Rob

Rob, have you done any searching for some of your questions? Reason, you can find many threads that deal with each and that gives you more to assist with what direction you go. Yes, use stock type brake/gas lines and many utilize stainless for street cars but they can be more difficult to work with but stay nice. The steel lines can be kept nice if you protect them a few times a year. Search threads on the poly thing as well as that has been discussed many, many times. Search team camaro as well.
Good luck and neat car......
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Chick
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KurtS
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« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2013, 12:31:12 AM »

I wouldn't do stainless lines ever. What problem are you trying to fix with the stainless?
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Kurt S
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ban617
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« Reply #4 on: May 05, 2013, 02:06:33 AM »

 No problem that I know of .. The car still has all the original lines on it at this point I believe .. just didn't know how to clean them  and  preserve them..
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janobyte
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« Reply #5 on: May 05, 2013, 08:15:02 AM »

As far as bushings it depends on your application: cruising ,pro tour ,drag  racing? Poly will give a firmer ride ( I've heard rigid) I like the feel of my car and am replacing with rubber. If the lines are in good shape, no shale or corrosion , re-use. I am mine. I've used Mothers mag polish in the past to clean them up. Just a suggestion. Paint....I have beat this around for 20 years, even to bother repainting at all. IMO if it's a numbers car ( engine, trans, driveline) return her the way she was born. I think a color change might devalue ,but I agree to the point of a re spray. Not saying that someone just might love the color you picked and will pay. I must admit there probably is a reason you don't see a lot of ash gold Camaros. But years ago I was running at Super Chevy and this guy came down to the pits asking me the color, he loved it, different. Gave him the code ,sent  him away happy.
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BillOhio
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« Reply #6 on: May 05, 2013, 12:09:34 PM »

Poly bushings have been known to squeak. Would be a lot of work to change them out.
I agree on paint, matching numbers should be the correct color. I wouldn't buy a car in a color I didn't like matching numbers or not anyway
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1969 Z28, Burgandy, numbers matching, 12,900 miles
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« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2013, 12:13:53 PM »

If you use a stainless steel tubing line and cannot get the joint to seal, I suggest try the following methods,
1. a drop of oil behind the tubing flare and before the nut, if it still leaks,
2. visit a hydraulic/pneumatic hose shop and purchase some copper crush flare washers and fit them between the fitting/adapter and tube flare.
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« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2013, 06:46:45 PM »

To me none correct color devalues the car the cost to repaint.
Absolutely!
What would be your purpose in painting it? Preference? Originality?
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Phillip
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ban617
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« Reply #9 on: May 05, 2013, 09:42:10 PM »

 Thanks ,everyone I will keep it Daytona Yellow , Also keep all the oem style rubber bushings ....I just didn't know if the bushings available  for the subframe had the GM part #as the originals.. I am trying to keep as stock as possible .. The original bushings are showing some cracking ....There is one part that I don't have for the car yet which is the Endura bumper ... I have all the brackets so I am half way there ... The car still has the reverse lockout ,also has the smog setup still on it .... Its a March car would it have the chambered exhaust ? Also which spoiler on the trunk lid short or long ? I like the short one personally ..
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janobyte
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« Reply #10 on: May 06, 2013, 06:50:12 PM »

Post some pics! This is a wonderful site, do your research on it and most of your questions will be answered. Pick up Jerry M's books on Camaros (CHP) and don't be afraid to farm out your parts to him, stand up guy. I don't need to but if I did I'd have no problems shipping my 302 to him. Also follow up on this sites links for parts. I'm freshening my  68 Z now , taking it slow, no hurry. Shooting for Camaro nats next June. Good luck to you and hope any of my input helps.
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janobyte
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« Reply #11 on: May 06, 2013, 06:59:33 PM »

BAN 617 ANOTHER THING, Beware of ebay, I browse it for fun and most of what I see is junk, P's me off what they get away with for description! Trust the guys on this site and like I said the links associated with it. Real car guys like to wheel and deal but It's always best when both parties make out and walk away happy.
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tmodel66
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« Reply #12 on: May 06, 2013, 07:41:00 PM »

I wouldn't do stainless lines ever. What problem are you trying to fix with the stainless?

Hey KurtS could you elaborate a little on why you wouldn't ever use stainless? I used it for fuel and brake lines and they were a good fit and look great. A few on this site recommended stainless because I ask before I bought all this stuff. IIRC I think JohnZ actually recommended stainless but don't take that to the bank. IIRC he also recommended InLine Tube. I'm just confused and it has been a couple years since all this took place.
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Daniel  
'69 SS 350/4 speed  Fathom Green--POP
janobyte
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« Reply #13 on: May 06, 2013, 08:36:00 PM »

Hey KurtS could you elaborate a little on why you wouldn't ever use stainless? I used it for fuel and brake lines and they were a good fit and look great.

I was wondering also, used stainless on other projects without problem. Not using on the Z because the OE lines are like new ,otherwise I would have.
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DavidS
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« Reply #14 on: May 06, 2013, 08:39:09 PM »

Hey KurtS could you elaborate a little on why you wouldn't ever use stainless?

Good question.

My best guess is that for a "100% technically correct" restoration you would not use stainless.

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tmodel66
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« Reply #15 on: May 06, 2013, 08:57:30 PM »

That's all I could think of DavidS. But the way he expressed it as saying he would never use it what has me baffled. My car is matching numbers car and probably a show winner in some circles but I chose stainless for longevity because sitting brake fluid creates or attracts moisture. My car sits more than it's driven so........ you do the math. 
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Daniel  
'69 SS 350/4 speed  Fathom Green--POP
janobyte
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« Reply #16 on: May 06, 2013, 09:29:13 PM »

Not to mention very rarely are the " toys " on my lift . Usually it's repairs and not restoration.  I go stainless for longevity. Ohio winters are brutal on lines and chassis. Little harder to make the flare or bends is all I can think . Never had a problem with leaks. Matter of fact there is a shop around here that will match your factory lines ( back to the toys) in stainless for a very reasonable price. However I'm always up to learn something new or hear possible problems. Maybe we are getting off track on this thread.
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KurtS
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« Reply #17 on: May 06, 2013, 10:11:37 PM »

Stainless is hard to work with - many people with nightmare stories about getting things to seal.
But more important, OEM lines don't rust. I have the original lines on both my cars and none are rusty. So why spend more money on SS and get problems, but not fix any problem.
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Kurt S
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ban617
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« Reply #18 on: May 08, 2013, 12:32:20 AM »

Good point Kurt ,may I ask how or what you used to  cleaned them up ?
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KurtS
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« Reply #19 on: May 09, 2013, 01:34:00 AM »

Mine are still as-is.
Depends on condition - if they are just dirty - Simply Green or such.
Evaporust or such if they have surface rust. IIRC, there's a coating on them that you don't want to remove.
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Kurt S
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lynnbilodeau
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« Reply #20 on: May 10, 2013, 10:42:35 AM »

OEM can rust from the inside out.  Granted, if the brake fluid is changed (flushed) every few years, it will never happen.

I have seen two brake lines that looked perfect from the outside, rusted through  from the inside resulting in brake failure.  One was a first gen Camaro.

Again, not likely, but possible.   I had to replace my original fuel line because someone had cut off both ends.  Went with stainless.  Figured it would be a good time to do brake lines as well.  I capped and saved all my original lines.  I had no sealing issues.  Yes, it is harder to bend.
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Mark
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« Reply #21 on: May 10, 2013, 11:24:04 AM »

The hard brakelines on my 69 are original, and don't appear to be very rusty on the exterior.  Never had a leak issue with any of them.  Now the Brake lines on my 2000 Cadillac STS look like they were buried in the sand at the surf line of the atlantic ocean and I will not even touch them for fear they will break in half.  I've alread patched in several new lengths of line here and there, as the lines develop leaks in them, an inevitably the little short replacement you plan on turns into a 2 or 3 foot replacement because you have to go that far back to find good steel.  Don't know what happened to the quallity of OEM steel in the last 20 years or so, but its gone way down hill.
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Mark C.
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« Reply #22 on: May 10, 2013, 11:51:54 AM »

Hi Rob, FWIW, I put poly bushings in my car during the resto and now wish I would have used rubber. I use my car for cruising and it's really stiff (and squeaky).

I also installed stainless lines and it was a cinch, no leaks (yet).

Hope this helps.
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« Reply #23 on: May 10, 2013, 02:07:32 PM »

I installed ss brake lines on my Z years ago, and it was a pain to get them to seal. Kurt is correct. Eventually got it sorted out.......but, would go reg steel if I was to do over. Especially since the car sees only good weather.
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Jimmy V.
ban617
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« Reply #24 on: May 12, 2013, 11:13:58 PM »

  Hi ,once again Kurt do you recall the Yellow VanNuys Z/28 that Van in California had ? He told me that you were familiar with it .. That's the car that I have ....What are the odds of finding nos body bushings ? Thanks Rob
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« Reply #25 on: May 14, 2013, 12:12:57 PM »

The stainless lines need to have the double flares seated better you can usually do it by snugging the hex fitting on the flare then spinning the flare around and around essentially lapping it. It was the only way I could get stainless Holley carb lines to seal... I figure this why so many of them have teflon tape on them... if your fuel lines seem to need teflon then you need to reseat the flares.
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James
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motorman
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« Reply #26 on: May 17, 2013, 01:07:28 PM »

copper flare gaskets all sizes. http://www.gsistore.com/copper-flare-gasket.html
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new Camaros owned 68 and 69 Z-28. new Corvettes owned 59,62,63,64,65,66,97,99 02,05 and 08.
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« Reply #27 on: May 17, 2013, 01:12:46 PM »

NOS bushing appear on ebay.
I'm not sure there's much a difference between the repro and originals. Others would know if it's worth chasing down NOS.
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Kurt S
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