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Author Topic: Door Hinges-get new ones or rebuild originals?  (Read 867 times)
ko-lek-tor
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« on: January 29, 2013, 11:14:22 PM »

Another decision. I am hesitant to buy anything reproduction because of quality issues and correctness. NOS stuff has really been getting in my pocket, not to mention some NOS stuff is not always correct in detail. Is rebuilding hinges the way I should go? I did read post on fittment of pins (O.D.). Just want to do it right first time and not compromise car's integrity. Thanks CRG, What a blessing for us anal types.
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Putting you First...Keeps me First. Talent on loan from God. Helping the hobbyist and exposing the fraud
1969 SS/RS 396 coupe Hugger Orange X22 712 bought in 79
1969 SS 350 coupe LeMans Blue 713 bought in 79
1969 307 4spd. coupe Daytona Yellow 711 bought in 85
Sauron327
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« Reply #1 on: January 30, 2013, 08:37:59 AM »

Rebuild your originals. Last job was supplied with repro hinges and excessive play was found after spring removal. No surprise. Buy pins and bushings at your jobber, not through resto houses. Houses have poor quality kits and often the tolerances do not provide zero play. Use Dorman, Auveco, W&E. You'll have to weed through them and measure to get ones that provide a tight fit. On occasion I've had success with sending out 67 hinges to those who machine their parts and zero play is the result. 67's have different detent roller pins and the repro screw in replacements are inferior.
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ko-lek-tor
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« Reply #2 on: January 30, 2013, 04:04:59 PM »

Thanks,Sauron327. Any other thoughts? Perhaps I could get some hardened round stock oversized and ream my holes for a tight fit and make my own.
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Putting you First...Keeps me First. Talent on loan from God. Helping the hobbyist and exposing the fraud
1969 SS/RS 396 coupe Hugger Orange X22 712 bought in 79
1969 SS 350 coupe LeMans Blue 713 bought in 79
1969 307 4spd. coupe Daytona Yellow 711 bought in 85
Sauron327
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« Reply #3 on: January 30, 2013, 07:09:04 PM »

The pins are fine. Just buy bushings that provide a tight fit. Jobbers sell them by the box or the piece. There's no need to ream the holes unless the hinge holes are worn and an oversized bushing OD is required. Rebuilding 8 and 9 hinges is not a big deal. 7's are different.
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MyRed67
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« Reply #4 on: January 31, 2013, 11:11:32 PM »

The pins are fine. Just buy bushings that provide a tight fit. Jobbers sell them by the box or the piece. There's no need to ream the holes unless the hinge holes are worn and an oversized bushing OD is required. Rebuilding 8 and 9 hinges is not a big deal. 7's are different.
     On my '67 Coupe, I replaced the bushings with Brass.  The pins have flat spots on them, I ground them off with a Dremel to get them out.   Then I put a sot weld in the same spot when I got them back together and flat spotted the sides so it looked "crimped" as original.  I also replaced a Detent Roller.  Rather than use the Shoulder bolt they sent,  we built up the original pin by welding it then grinding it down to proper size.  Then we polished it smooth, put the Roller on and welded a small flat washer on top.   And "voila" looks almost  exactly as original.
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1967 Camaro  LOS  11A
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Sauron327
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« Reply #5 on: February 01, 2013, 12:21:07 AM »

    On my '67 Coupe, I replaced the bushings with Brass.  The pins have flat spots on them, I ground them off with a Dremel to get them out.   Then I put a sot weld in the same spot when I got them back together and flat spotted the sides so it looked "crimped" as original.  I also replaced a Detent Roller.  Rather than use the Shoulder bolt they sent,  we built up the original pin by welding it then grinding it down to proper size.  Then we polished it smooth, put the Roller on and welded a small flat washer on top.   And "voila" looks almost  exactly as original.

Bushings are bronze. Brass is too soft and would not last. The rebuilder also replaced the detent pivot point pin. The detent roller is hardened and it is also fitted with a bronze bushing to ride on the new pressed in pin. Better than a roller without a bronze bushing. Hinges were also beadblasted. Pin replacement procedure is optional. Standard procedure is the new pin has a c-clip groove lathe cut tight to the hinge so it can only be seen if one looks underneath. Then the pin end is chamfered prior to being cut to correct length. Pins can also be staked instead if desired. Clips are nice if not being judged for originality because the hinges can be taken down for better painting. For the cost of that attention to detail, precision and quality, it's not worth it for me to interrupt shop production time for '67 lower hinges.
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Petes L48
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« Reply #6 on: February 01, 2013, 11:12:58 AM »

I was thinking about trying to turn these 68-69 rollers down in a lathe to use in my 67 hinges.  Or would I destroy them when pressing into place?  Maybe knurl to help keep it seated?  Are the detent rollers the same size all years?  Or is there some other alternative to the cheap screw-in repair kits?

http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/roller_assy_door_hinge_detent_lower-108581-0.html

 
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Sauron327
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« Reply #7 on: February 01, 2013, 03:36:11 PM »

Just the rollers in that NPD link are the same as 67. If you make your own pins there is no need to knurl; tolerance provides retention. The alternative is to do as I stated previously...a bronze bushed hardened steel roller with a pressed in pin. I can post photos of the ones done in this manner when I get a chance. The detent arm pivot pin should also be done if it's at all worn.
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