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71
Maintenance / Re: Console Temp Guage won't go off Cold
« Last post by myblue67 on April 20, 2017, 01:39:15 PM »
 Had similar problem that impacted gas gauge as well. Found out the front face of the gauge assembly wasn't mounted tightly to the console (small screws). Discovered by tapping on the face of the gauge and kind of jostling around. Apparently this completes the ground. Just something to check.
72
Maintenance / Torque convertor cavitation?
« Last post by myblue67 on April 20, 2017, 01:29:57 PM »
 Been trying to ID a cavitation type sound for several weeks, actually going back to last fall. Sounds like coming from torque converter, but only for a few seconds on start-up. No operational problems and level appears to be good. I do have a small leak at the radiator connection (maybe a drop or two over night), but again I checked level and was not even close to the "add pt" mark. Thoughts, experience?  PG transmission in an L48.
73
Decoding/Numbers / Re: 68Z28 #'s
« Last post by jdv69z on April 20, 2017, 01:17:49 PM »
I know this has nothing to do with the engine stamps but the wheel shown is a K19. Paper in the picture says K18. On the car they all appear to be the later narrow slot wheels(K19).

If the wheels are the original ones, I think they incorrectly restored from what I see?
74
General Discussion / Re: Shifter adjustment Help
« Last post by jdv69z on April 20, 2017, 01:07:20 PM »
This is a Hurst, correct? When making adjustments, do you have the neutral alignment rod installed? I think it's just a 1/4" rod that lines up the shifter levers to neutral with the trans. Is it possible you have one of the arms upside down? I just went through this with a competition plus. I was able to install the rods upside down and get to work.......sort of. It obviously wasn't right, but I was able to actually drive it that way. 1st was where 2nd should be and vice versa. I finally got it worked out. Do have the Hurst assembly diagram? You can get it online if you need it.
75
Trans-Am Camaros / Re: BFGoodrich Radial Tirebird
« Last post by Jon Mello on April 20, 2017, 12:58:48 PM »
Thanks, Bruce. Can you "un-negative" the other one in the Walter Parkins thread and post both there? I don't have the capability to do that.
76
Decoding/Numbers / Re: 68Z28 #'s
« Last post by maroman on April 20, 2017, 11:52:55 AM »
Read the terms of sale like a lawyer. It says you have to inspect the car before you bid not after you win. Ditto on the red flag!
77
Decoding/Numbers / Re: 68Z28 #'s
« Last post by cook_dw on April 20, 2017, 11:37:48 AM »
78
Decoding/Numbers / Re: 68Z28 #'s
« Last post by JKZ27 on April 20, 2017, 10:32:50 AM »
I know this has nothing to do with the engine stamps but the wheel shown is a K19. Paper in the picture says K18. On the car they all appear to be the later narrow slot wheels(K19).
79
General Discussion / Re: Shifter adjustment Help
« Last post by jim28607 on April 20, 2017, 09:26:03 AM »
do you have the rod in the correct hole on the trans reverse lever ?
there are two holes and the lower hole is for the trans lockout rod
Hello,
I need your advice ,
When I got my car a BB 69 RS/SS non numbers
Car, it had a Blatantly wrong shifter ....
So I decided to buy a correct rebuilt
3138 shifter assembly, then I got a
supposedly correct aftermarket BB Linkage with
Mounting plate set up.
Everything installed and shifts great ,
except when I go into reverse , it seems that
The shifter travel is to long , pulling the reverse
Lever to a full 90 degrees from the neutral"down" position
Then that angle is such that I can't shift out of reverse.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Jim
You should be able to screw the rod into the shifter adjustment nub further to shorten the travel. That's part of the basic set up procedure.

Thanks , I am certainly no expert on this ,
but with the shifter in the neutral position,
And all three transmission shift levers in the down,
Neutral position , there is no guess work as
To rod adjustment length?
80
Decoding/Numbers / Re: 68Z28 #'s
« Last post by bergy on April 20, 2017, 09:23:47 AM »
Most of you know this, but remember that these blocks were cast in molds made out of a mixture of (primarily) sand, southern & western bentonite (clay), and water (to activated the clay as a binder).  The iron was poured into the mold at about 2,650 degrees.    It's not surprising to see some mold wall movement and to have small details like date stamps get distorted a little.
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