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 71 
 on: July 22, 2014, 12:00:15 PM 
Started by KERR - Last post by janobyte
What did you pay for it ? Not similar ,but went through the court system against a body man on a 64 ss years ago. Now, I did have estimates, receipts and promissory notes.

I would definitely have a sit down with an attorney, and see what you have for a case....shy away from nonprofessional opinions here.

Keep in mind , I feel for you ,but you were sold garbage...and the seller knows this. There should be a price to somewhat ease your pain ,and deter him from trying to defend his wrong doings. Buyer beware...to a point. Talk to your lawyer. Consultation should be free.

 72 
 on: July 22, 2014, 11:48:01 AM 
Started by Vince - Last post by Stingr69
The intake manifold ehaust heat passage will still flow some exhaust even if the flapper is removed.  You can block the non-choke stove side of the intake at the passage and the choke will still work from the heat migration in the aluminum but it might be a little slower to pull off.  Not a big deal.  If the passage is blocked on one side, no exhaust gas will travel through inside the intake manifold.

-Mark.

 73 
 on: July 22, 2014, 11:27:13 AM 
Started by sul423 - Last post by ggtsvnv
Seems i seen you do a build on a chevy truck a while back.  If your the same person then you did a great job on that truck and i have no doubt that your camaro will come out great. Keep up the great work!

 74 
 on: July 22, 2014, 11:07:15 AM 
Started by KERR - Last post by KERR
So long story short,  i guess im going to have to get a lawer and go back on the seller of this camaro,  ever day its another rusted part.

Ad read,  30K actual mile car,  X11, factory air, V8,  New 750 carb ( lied its old as hell)  TH350 with shift kit ( junk )  New 1/4s and floor pans,  needs a little TLC

 
THIS IS NOT A SHOW CAR, ITS A GRATE DRIVER AND NEEDS PAINT,  THAT IS WHY ITS NOT $45K dollars...


So i called on the phone  talked to the guy,  told him my plans,  they said the car was good and would be fine for a color swap to black,  went and looked at the car, but do to weather didnt get a chance to drive it ( started pouring the snow)   I ask if we could put in on a lift and they said the lift was at there shop...   

So fast forward,   I get ready to paint,     take vinyl  top off,  rust you pan put your hand threw,   need roof and roof supports,   I figured id just eat that and planned on a roof skin from what you all said....     Move on to interior to  take it out,   seats rusted, floor rusted and this new floor pan is more of piece of aluminum from lows,  and the cross brace on the drivers side where the seat bolts in is busted.  so even all 4 bolts where bolted in,  the side next to the door isnt attached to anything...  I had to throw all the seats but frames away along with all the carpet and dash pad.. they where molded and mildewed to the point that car stunk up my garage,  not to mention im deathly allergic to it.   to the point of walk by a place on the street that mold and im at the dr that night with out even going in the building... 

At this point im poed,  i figured id strip the car in case i need more parts.    Rear 1/4 are on the car but they done with pop rivits and already have rust around them. They also over lapped the tops of the 1/4s so there was about half inch of bondo / fiberglass to get it level..    the truck lid has dual set of holes,  im guessing some one installed the spoiler and then shut the  trunk and it didnt line up..     Doors are in good shape which is surprising,     move on the front fenders and they have patch panels witch would be ok,  but they again used thin metal or aluminum,  pop rivet gun, AND bent the ends around and over the factory fenders and bolts,  then covered it up with fiberglass and bondo...  Not a big deal,  ill eat two fenders...    I go to take them off, and now the big metal thing that the fenders bolt to ( along with the door) has holes on both side of the weld / pinch seam?  that are the size of a base ball...      The top of the fire wall, on the passenger side behind the AC ( below the windshild)  has rust holes and has been covered up with what looks like melted fiberglass or something...      then i cut my freaking leg on the fender so i quit last night and went to the dr to get a tetanus shot...

Anyway,  so far the only thing about this car that is correct is the vin number and the mileage..  the rest has been nothing but lies..   I feel like i paid a lot of money for a $4K car,  and if they had been honest i would have never bought the car for what my plans are,  I would have bought one of those on line out of Arizona or someplace that is rust free shell...

another thing that poes me is that i told them i was doing a big block with twin turbos and the state thats car is in i believe it would have twisted its self in half,  which would not be very safe,  ad in the fact that only time i drove it was with both my kids in the car and we ridding a ticking time bomb...


Anyway any of you ever filed a law suit over something like this,  I dont care to give them the car back,  ill eat my time, labor and expenses on ins, taxes and tools, along with my now dr bill and what ive spent on materials...  or i need enough money to cover a new body...   

Ill post a link to the photos...    Im not trying get anything for free,  but i dont want to eat this project,  in all honesty the car should have just been crushed..

 

 75 
 on: July 22, 2014, 10:48:25 AM 
Started by avnut - Last post by avnut
Old Chevrolet engineering dyno test show 575@6800rpm for the ZL-1. Mine was right on that figure.


Thanks for the dyno chart.You posted as I was typing.lol
I had thought the L88/ZL1 to be in that ballpark.

 76 
 on: July 22, 2014, 10:43:34 AM 
Started by avnut - Last post by avnut
The ZL1 didnt come to mind at the time,but I dont think I've ever seen a good pic of one either.I have an L88 for my 68 Camaro.
I did come across a Ebay seller that can make the decal,so I may go that route.

L88's speak for themselves...  Smiley ..  you don't need no damn sticker..  Smiley

I dont know, It ONLY has 430hp @5200......and its old Horsepower also. Smiley

From everything that has ever been written about L88/ZL1's, the horsepower is well above 430.. especially with headers to let it breathe.   Chevy rated the L88/ZL1 engine at 430 (5 hp below the Tri-power solid lifter version of the 427) .. I suspect to discourage orders of the engines by the 'typical buyer'...  Only the most informed racers knew of these engines at the time... Smiley        ...with headers and supertune, I doubt that 500-550 hp is out of line..

My comment was tongue in cheek.. Smiley
I have done a bit of research the last couple years on the L88/ZL1 also.Theres not alot of info out there on these.From what I have come up with and having seen a couple dyno charts on them,they are quite impressive.GM as you stated wanted to discourage sales to the inexperienced and also due to the scutiny from the insurance companys they kept the HP rating lower.GM could not mis-state it for obvious reasons.Whereas the 427/425 and 427/435 engines were peak hp ratings they used Approx 1000 rpms below peak rating on the L88/ZL1.(430HP@5200) The dyno chart I seen on the L88 (1967/1968) with headers and good tune produced approx 557hp@6400.The ZL1 produced 585hp. As you may be aware in 69 the L88/ZL1 had a redesigned head/pistons with open chambers, venturi ports which breath better and a change to the camshaft which would account for the increase although the factory rating was not changed.
IMO the second design L88/ZL1 was pinnicle of success for Chevy.By todays standards maybe not so much,but going back to the late sixtys and to see how these were beefed up.7/16 pushrods,7/16 rod bolts using Boron steel with ground shanks,etc.According to my old info the L88 with a valve spring change (which I have done)the Redline is 7600 for drag racing and 7200 for Circle track(like Daytona).I paid $4500 for my L88 engine in 1982.
I think it quite fitting that it be nestled into my 68 RS/SS  Smiley
My Camaro will be stock looking on the outside.I dont expect the project to come to fruitation for 1-2 years.After this project is complete,I may build a 496 bb engine as a spare. Smiley


 77 
 on: July 22, 2014, 10:27:10 AM 
Started by dannystarr - Last post by dannystarr
So then the "CC" on the water pump pulley is the same thing, and assembly line ID code... Got it.... Cool, and good to know...Danny

 78 
 on: July 22, 2014, 10:22:17 AM 
Started by avnut - Last post by Oaklyss
Old Chevrolet engineering dyno test show 575@6800rpm for the ZL-1. Mine was right on that figure.


 79 
 on: July 22, 2014, 08:50:07 AM 
Started by dannystarr - Last post by 1968 Z28
"BJ" is the identification code of the pulley that was used on the assembly line.  You showed an earlier picture of the real drums that had a "BU" sticker and the front springs had an "EE" sticker.  Same thing.

 80 
 on: July 22, 2014, 08:46:30 AM 
Started by Vince - Last post by Kelley W King
Harbor Freight sells the IR tool for usually $29.00. One of the best tools I have bought lately. It is as accurate as the $600.00 one we have at work, just does not record or do thermal images. They have many uses.

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