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Originality / Re: DId a 69 Z use the capacitor on the coil?
« Last post by 6667ss138 on June 26, 2016, 07:41:12 PM »
Have just been reading back at a few old threads on the coil bracket question. I see where John Z and William know of no notch. I also read others like myself that have it on there cars. Mine sure looks original but who knows. I know mine has been on there for many years.
General Discussion / Hi temp paint for exhaust manifold
« Last post by Fanthomgreen69 on June 26, 2016, 07:34:21 PM »
Did a search for this but did not find info. Thinking about painting new exhaust manifolds with a hi temp paint. Is one better than another. Saw Eastwood has a product with mixed reviews or should I just leave them and let them surface rust?
Restoration / 1967 rs pinstripes
« Last post by loneacre on June 26, 2016, 07:02:47 PM »
Are the body line pin stripes part of the rs package?????
Originality / Re: DId a 69 Z use the capacitor on the coil?
« Last post by 6667ss138 on June 26, 2016, 05:21:03 PM »
I copied this from a post Danny made. John left this reply. I am pretty sure i had seen them with the capacitor but i didnt find it in the AIM. Thanks!
coil bracket with the "notch" is not unique to the Z/28; originals don't have the notch, although the eBay sellers want you to believe they did, so they can claim they're "rare". The one in the photo is clearly from another application, as it has the screw to attach the radio noise suppresson capacitor, which was never used on a '69 Camaro.

I just checked mine and it does have the notch as I have read and been told that all ZL/2 hoods required a different coil angle and therefore a different coil bracket compared to the flat hood cars. Can anyone confirm this as being correct? My car is unrestored and as far as I know it is the original bracket along with many other original components still on my car.
Also, mine does not have a capacitor and does not appear to have any threads where one was ever installed. I would have to remove it to be absolute.
Survivor Cars / Re: 69 Yenko Daytona Yellow original paint details
« Last post by 69Z28-RS on June 26, 2016, 03:22:04 PM »
I had the same question Bryon...
Maintenance / Re: Soft brakes -- Fluid level, bleeding, and shoes (drum, pb)
« Last post by 69Z28-RS on June 26, 2016, 03:21:17 PM »
If your brake pad material is thick (thicker than 3/16"), then just scuff the glazed pad surface and inside the drums wtih 80 grit sand paper.  If the brake material is around 1/8" thick, then replace them (they are more than half worn at this level).

Replace the rubber hoses for sure, all three... the rubber is likely to be breaking down on the inside.  Clean inside the steel lines with alcohol..  air blow thru them to dry them. 

Remove the wheel cylinders to check/clean/rebuild as necessary.   

Remove the master cylinder to check/clean/rebuild as necessary. 

Put it all together and bleed thru with clean good brake fluid.  (I like using silicone - DOT 5 - but you should only do this IF you rebuild all the wheel and master cylinder with new rubber seals)...  Other wise use the synthetic (DOT 4?) brake fluid.
Trans-Am Camaros / Re: New Zealand/Australian Camaros And Firebirds
« Last post by Jon Mello on June 26, 2016, 02:59:31 PM »
Mike, I've seen the photo before but can't recall if it was posted on this forum previously. Thanks for providing the link.
Maintenance / Re: Soft brakes -- Fluid level, bleeding, and shoes (drum, pb)
« Last post by 67L48 on June 26, 2016, 02:35:46 PM »
Now I'm rethinking the replacement strategy.  I pulled the wheels off the driver side of the car yesterday.  The brakes looked great.  A little dusty, but not bad.  The colors of the springs were still visible.  Pads were thick.  All the lines looked great.  Some of the hard lines had gunk on them, but the lines were solid, free of rust, looked new. The wheel cylinder actuated the pads just fine.

I got the car in 1989 with 34,000 original miles.  I verified that brakes were changed in the early 1990s.  So, as I suspected, the pads and components didn't decompose over 20,000 miles.

Maybe there's another reason to change the pads?  Even though the pads are quite thick, should they still be replace due to age?

Right now, I'm thinking fluid and bleeding ... but I can still change components if that's necessary ... it's just that everything looked and moved great.  I'll see if I can post pictures.
Survivor Cars / Re: 69 Yenko Daytona Yellow original paint details
« Last post by bcmiller on June 26, 2016, 02:34:41 PM »
It would be good to find out if he got the car with the rockers painted yellow.  I wonder at what point they were changed from black to yellow.
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Questions about Muncie parts and casting number question
« Last post by Bryan302 on June 26, 2016, 04:04:19 AM »
thanks ko-lek-tor.

so, several members were saying in other threads that they would recommend changing the plastic gear because of the spring clip breaking.  I really didn't want to spend up to $120.00 for the NOS steel gear until I had a good idea of which one was best to replace the plastic gear.  I've heard of at least three different part numbers for an 8T gear.

Since this steel gear was last used in 1967 and pressed on, and the spring clip held the plastic gear in place in 1968-9.  What lines the steel gear up with the driven gear since it does not have the spring clip to locate it on the shaft?  Anyone?
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