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51
General Discussion / Re: Wittek Tower Hose clamps
« Last post by dannystarr on August 29, 2015, 01:31:02 AM »
I have removed several dated 2/68 on my car. Putting them back I put a tab of high heat wheel bearing grease on the inner area where the square nut slides up and down. And a little on the threads using an acid brush. Then I take my baby slip joint pliers {channel Locks} and did what the guys said. Held them right in place so they don't torque to the side. 1/4" drive Ratchet, or the proper nut driver and make them up. No leaks  ;D  Danny
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General Discussion / Re: Wittek Tower Hose clamps
« Last post by JohnZ on August 29, 2015, 12:59:29 AM »
A tiny bit of lube on the screw threads and point will help.

A little lube also helps where the base of the tower slides through the ends of the "saddle" - reduces the torque required to tighten the clamp.
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General Discussion / Re: Wittek Tower Hose clamps
« Last post by L78 steve on August 29, 2015, 12:39:02 AM »
A tiny bit of lube on the screw threads and point will help.
54
General Discussion / Re: Wittek Tower Hose clamps
« Last post by BULLITT65 on August 28, 2015, 11:13:26 PM »
Hey, if we are talking the reproduction Wittek then yes try your best with some channel locks holding the tower while it is tightened down.

If we are talking originals, I have had a couple dozen originals that I have used and re-used and never (knock on wood) had any leaks or issues with the tower moving
55
You guys with your white vinyl tops..... I think you and Jimmy V. May have to start your own club... ;D

Kinda like the HO guys


J/k with you, your right white vinyl is rarely seen today. I think the yellow white stripe car a saw a few months back with the white vinyl was also a low production color choice.

I see where you are coming from. Your lucky to have such a complete car, even if you got all the parts loose. Shoot the whole car may be worth more in loose parts if you priced them all out.....haha
56
Makes me wonder why someone would pay $35K for a basket case that needs at least that much for restoration when you can have this for less.
I found this Z interesting also since it had so many doc's.  I thought the $60K seemed fair for what it had and needed.  But of course seeing in person as Danzo had may make one think different.

As far as why one would pay $35K for a basket case.  I think there's several ways to look at it as I'm one of those who dropped $30K on a basket case.

Yeah spend $60K, drive the heck out of it and enjoy it for what it is.  Knowing that it's not "ALL ORIGINAL" parts (but a very nice driver) and still one day may warrant an addition $15-$20K in resto in reproduction parts.   And then there's my thoughts.  One..I don't have $70-$100K burning a hole in my pocket..lol   Two.. I'm so dang anal that I'd rather spend $30-35K on a project and dump another $30K over a few years.  At least I'll know that it was done correctly and not just shoved out the door for a fast buck.  And last... I have the ability to complete a resto myself except for the final paint (only cause I don't have a booth), so a $30K drop was much easier.  If I drop only another $30K,  I'll have a True Z with all born with parts and drive-line at less than $70K... To me, hard to find !

I searched high and low and found a Z with every factory line part (except the battery), right down to the wing nut that holds the spare.  Hard to find with so many of the orig's parts IMO.  Everything is pretty much salvageable and rebuildable except a few obvious things such as carpet, wiring harnesses and headliner.  I'm still waiting to see or hear of another Dusk Blue with a white top, flat hood and no rear spoiler !  :)

Again....JMO
57
General Discussion / Wittek Tower Hose clamps
« Last post by my69Z28camaro on August 28, 2015, 10:00:20 PM »
What is the best way to install Wittek tower hose clamps on radiator and heater hoses to prevent leaking under pressure?  I have read and seen you tube videos on various methods from holding the tower portion with pliers while tightening the bolt . . . to simply just tighening the bolt.
58
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Confirmation of original engine
« Last post by KurtS on August 28, 2015, 09:40:08 PM »
I hate to have to tell you this, but it looks like either your tag or VIN is from a different car.  You'll want to check the partial VIN on the cowl. http://www.camaros.org/numbers.shtml#PartialVIN

Can you post a picture of the cowl tag? That NOR # doesn't look right for that date.
59
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Confirmation of original engine
« Last post by 1968RSZ28 on August 28, 2015, 09:39:19 PM »
What is the engine block casting number and casting date?

Paul
60
Decoding/Numbers / Confirmation of original engine
« Last post by KY67 on August 28, 2015, 08:44:40 PM »
Is it possible to determine with certainty whether my engine is original to my '67 Camaro?

VIN = 124377N189128
Cowl Tag indicates  01D build date and  Norwood assembly (NOR 74367)
Engine Code from engine pad  V0202MA  (no partial VIN)

I interpret these codes to indicate the following,
-  engine assembly from engine code Feb 2,
-  build date from cowl tag Jan 4th week,
-  serial number from VIN (189128) maps to a March production

I understand engine code dates can be later than cowl tag build date.  Is the VIN serial number inconsistent with the build date or engine code?  Is there anything else I can do to confirm whether engine is original to the car?  Any help is appreciated.
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