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 51 
 on: July 30, 2014, 02:11:53 PM 
Started by dannystarr - Last post by 1968 Z28
What's missing is the Black Plastic insert that fits inside the center hole....it ID's the valve pressure setting.  BTW....mine is missing also.....if you find a source let us all know.
Just to make sure you know what I am referring to.....little black thing in middle of valve.

     

     

 52 
 on: July 30, 2014, 11:28:54 AM 
Started by Vince - Last post by Stingr69
Yep - the only thing else to do is slide a stainless steel shim in between the intake and the head on the drivers side right in the middle of the manifold to block that passage.  It will help to reduce the cooking of the carburetor and fuel percolation. Only do this if you have eliminated the heat riser function.

Just go to the kitchen when your wife is not around and find a flat bottomed stanless bowl.  Cut out a flat piece of material with tin snips just wide enough to fit between the manifold bolts in the center of the drivers side. Bend a small tab over to help you push it in.  Loosten the manifold bolts just a little and see if you can slide that metal down in there between the gasket and the intake. Try not to disturb the gasket too much.  Tighten the bolts back up and see if that helps.  It worked for me when I had the percolation issue.

PS - if you go snatch the bowl when the wife is watching, you are a BOSS!  Cheesy

Good luck!

-Mark.

 53 
 on: July 30, 2014, 10:40:26 AM 
Started by dannystarr - Last post by 1968 Z28
What's missing is the Black Plastic insert that fits inside the center hole....it ID's the valve pressure setting.  BTW....mine is missing also.....if you find a source let us all know.

 54 
 on: July 30, 2014, 10:00:35 AM 
Started by Vince - Last post by JohnZ
<< Well I was finally able to do some checking on the underhood temps.  I drove the Z for between 2-3 miles to get the engine up to temp.  The outside air temp was in the mid 80's.  While driving the temp gauge stayed right around the first quarter marking, maybe one mark up toward the half marking.  While idling in my driveway the gauge read right at the one half marking.  The engine would not hold a steady idle but slowly had the idle decrease until the engine died.  This happened 3-4 times.  While the engine was not running the temp gauge would increase until it was between the one half marking and the three quarter marking.  This I take to be normal due to heat soak.  
Here are the temps I recorded with an infrared gun:  

radiator hose at thermostat- 183, bottom radiator hose- 164  >>

The last line above are the only temps that mean anything, and they're normal - don't agonize over all the other external temps - they are what they are, and you can't change them. You don't have a cooling problem, you have a typical fuel percolation problem, aggravated by low E10 fuel boiling points. Insulating your fuel line from the frame to the carb will help, as will an aluminum heat shield that extends under both fuel bowls. E10 fuel boils at 150*F, and at extended idle, the fuel bowls get hotter than that.


 55 
 on: July 30, 2014, 09:50:05 AM 
Started by 23bull - Last post by 23bull
Thanks John,
Which makes me think this is for a 1967 Camaro SS.

 56 
 on: July 30, 2014, 09:35:31 AM 
Started by 23bull - Last post by JohnZ
If you chased that back far enough, you'd probably find that it's an old Ternstedt part number, from the days when they had an inside monopoly on die-cast ornamentation.

 57 
 on: July 30, 2014, 09:25:31 AM 
Started by dannystarr - Last post by JohnZ
<< I read somewhere that you HAVE to have something in the top of the smog pump, or it will keep pumping into the manifolds and this is NOT good. Some kind of valve? True? What goes in this hole? Can I buy one? Can I run the engine without the belt attached to the pump? ... Danny >>

What goes in that hole is already there - it's a pressed-in pressure relief valve, to protect the pump in the unlikely event that the diverter valve sticks closed. The more common failure mode for the diverter valve is that it sticks open, pumping air into the manifold tubes all the time - that happens when the rubber diaphragm inside the diverter valve fails (and they all do eventually) and the valve then defaults by design to the open position, also causing a vacuum leak through the vacuum signal hose.

 58 
 on: July 30, 2014, 08:47:57 AM 
Started by dannystarr - Last post by 1968 Z28
68Zproject... Here it is. But I can't find my pitch reader tools. I bet someone on here or TC will have one for you. Or at least tell ya the size...Hope this helps.. Danny
10-24 x 1/4".....read that somewhere, can't remember where.

 59 
 on: July 30, 2014, 08:44:34 AM 
Started by 69Z28 - Last post by 68Zproject
I have that ball and the whole linkage and can't get $175 for the whole thing.

 60 
 on: July 30, 2014, 08:28:41 AM 
Started by Jon Mello - Last post by Jon Mello
The car is undergoing restoration. Much of the bodywork is done but it is not yet painted. Dave says the fiberglass seat
is very narrow and does not fit him well so he is putting it on the shelf and is picking out another style of low-back seat.

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