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Originality / Re: Stripes: which ones ?
« Last post by KurtS on November 29, 2015, 12:37:45 AM »
Thanks! Almost looked gold or champagne.
General Discussion / Re: adjustable fuel gauge module?
« Last post by 69pace on November 28, 2015, 10:49:41 PM »
Well in any event how you get your gasoline into the tank it is important to know when to go seek some and the M & H module is one of the best out there for automotive applications. In recent years a host of aftermarket kits sold on eBay have flooded the market but this is the best professional adjustable one out there. It tucks nicely under the 68-69 console and wires the same way the original module does.

There are three models for a reason. 1967 the factory LFWM send power out the Yellow lead to light the bulb. 1968 and 1969 the yellow supplied ground to light the light. You can't use a 68/69 on an existing factory 67 system.

The console gauge wiring version is if you wish to add the low fuel warning light option to any 67 without gauges or console, or 68-69 without saw tooth gauges or even a console. This all in one unit includes a light that gets power from the system pink in the modules harness and then yellow supplies the ground.

The standard 69 can be installed behind the dash and hook up to the rear of a 69 center pod or right pod fuel gauge and use the existing FUEL light socket on the dash with some scrap wire.

The same is possible with 67's and 68's but you may want to put an aux light somewhere on the dash since the 67/68 re purposed the OIL pressure warning lights if you had factory console and gauges. For 67's you may need the unit that supplies power to a socket.
Restoration / Re: Cavity wax drying time ???
« Last post by DAVEN1256 on November 28, 2015, 09:01:18 PM »
After six weeks, the wax that I sprayed in the jar is still has the texture of grease. It has not solidified any further.  I scooped some out of the jar with a stick and smeared it on some paper. You can see it in the picture below.

I did take a 12 inch by 4 inch piece of sheet metal and bent it 90 degrees the long ways trying to simulate the joint in the bottom of the door. I sprayed the SEM in that. That was 2 1/2 weeks ago and that is still wet and sticky also.

If this is normal, that's fine and I'll use it. It just seems it should be dryer than that. But having never used cavity wax before, I would have no way of knowing what's normal and what isn't.


Originality / Re: Detail Picture Request - 69 U26 Underhood Lamp
« Last post by 69pace on November 28, 2015, 08:57:06 PM »
Yes you are correct the bulb capsule - glass or steel - has to be broken or breached to open and let the mercury escape, if it has then contact with the outer housing if contaminated may contain enough to be harmful especially if your lifetime cumulative count is already high. The unit in general good condition shouldn't pose any danger to most people. BTW The trunk lights are based on the same system switch capsules.

I guess you could rebuild a mercury switch unit with the guts of a bb unit but why risk releasing the contents in the process, then the State and or Federal EPA has to get involved and clean it up as a hazmat site.

If I had a mercury based under hood unit I would carefully package the original unit in a sealed container like a glad-ware sandwich box, then bag it in a zip lock, mark toxic - mercury and then store it someplace safe and out of kids reach if keeping original parts is important to you.

Then I would hang one of the decent replacements on your hood. The one Ricks sells is the correct size and shape (2x2 hanger) and uses a bb switch. Even replace the other style with the shorter hanger and the hole for heat escape with the standard 2x2. You can't see the hole when the bulb is installed and if it bothers you then drill a hole in it. :) The fact your vehicle got one or the other style was luck of the draw at the assembly time, which suppliers train came in on time. No one will notice or care IMHO unless you have a trailer queen for judging and where is the fun in that?

Maintenance / Re: Pitman Arm to Steering Box Spacing
« Last post by jmcbeth on November 28, 2015, 08:04:17 PM »
Mike, Don't know. Purchased steering box from Heartbeat. I would assume they adjusted appropriately. How can one tell?

sixt9x33rs, When I torqued to 120 ft. lbs. it came up a little more, now about 1/2 inch. Steering box came from Heartbeat. I presume they rebuild them.


General Discussion / Re: New Class for First Gens in AACA
« Last post by maroman on November 28, 2015, 07:53:12 PM »
Phil, I just read the thread and the one about HPOF. Now I remember why I quit reading those threads. Nothing to do with Camaros, but I think I know which car Trimacar was talkiing about. It's had a total repaint and interior and still got an original HPOF award. Don't want this thread to go on a tangent so I'll stop.
General Discussion / Re: New Class for First Gens in AACA
« Last post by maroman on November 28, 2015, 07:14:54 PM »
Thanks, keep us updated. I did not check the judging thread on AACA, will do that. Thanks. doug
Maintenance / Re: Pitman Arm to Steering Box Spacing
« Last post by sixt9x33rs on November 28, 2015, 04:08:43 PM »
JMcbeth, I just did the exact same thing and had the same issue. My issue was that I could not torque the pitman arm to spec because I did not have a 1 5/16" socket to torque it down to the 120 - 160 foot pound spec per the AIM. Once I got that done then my pitman arm went further up the shaft and to what I believe is acceptable.

Who rebuilt your box? I had Lares Corp rebuild mine.
General Discussion / Re: New Class for First Gens in AACA
« Last post by lakeholme on November 28, 2015, 03:56:13 PM »
Phil, does that mean all early Camaros will be in one class? Six cylinder and Yenco alike? I had not gotten this memo. Please explain more.

Okay, according to a post on the AACA Judging forum, Camaros will have their own HP class, as well. So that takes care of all lumped together.
And it is class 34, not 36. I typed it wrong earlier. Sorry!
I'm making a presentation (on a completely different issue) at Burlington, NC in January. That's where the first judging school will be and Herb will be there. Hopefully, they will share all the details there.
1969 - Orphans / Re: 1969 M21 Muncie on eBay 19N560062
« Last post by ko-lek-tor on November 28, 2015, 03:46:01 PM »
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