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 31 
 on: July 31, 2014, 08:59:45 PM 
Started by 69Z28 - Last post by 69Z28
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rebuilt-1969-DZ302-Engine-3956618-Watch-It-Run-In-Video-Z28-Camaro-/231293336073?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35da283a09&vxp=mtr


Here's an interesting auction. Looks like a Tonawanda block with DZ on the end.

 32 
 on: July 31, 2014, 06:13:24 PM 
Started by Ed Bertrand - Last post by vtfb68
  Mark,
 My scheduling # is J 543, and the assembly plant # is 39094.
    Victor

 33 
 on: July 31, 2014, 04:06:55 PM 
Started by sixt9x33rs - Last post by sixt9x33rs
If you have a Chassis Service Manual, look at 12-3 ,-12-4.This is in the electrical-body & chassis section.Has rszmjt said you would be amazed at how much movement there is for adjustment!

jacmac, I went to that section and don't see where I can adjust headlight doors for RS

 34 
 on: July 31, 2014, 03:50:32 PM 
Started by blackss69 - Last post by BULLITT65
Nice score! wish I knew someone doing the same.

 35 
 on: July 31, 2014, 02:45:40 PM 
Started by ko-lek-tor - Last post by ko-lek-tor
Scored a set of what I believe are oriiginal Aero wiper blades off a guy's 69 SS. Can someone tell me how to confirm they are OEM? Either by pics or PM. I can't post pics right now. Thanks.

 36 
 on: July 31, 2014, 02:40:22 PM 
Started by blackss69 - Last post by ko-lek-tor
Old thread, but... thought I would share for database info and tracking. I just acquired an AJAX K-AX-8 off of a 12C Nor. car. Guy down the road has a X22 vert. Keeps replacing all the original stuff with reproduction parts. His loss, my gain,IMO. He is making a Pro-Touring car out of it, WTF? His plans are to replace all the GM sheet metal with new repro. Hope to score some more stuff. No pics right now as my laptop is down. Got other parts to post later.

 37 
 on: July 31, 2014, 01:11:28 PM 
Started by dannystarr - Last post by dannystarr
JohnZ sorry to bother ya all the time. But follow-up, so I pull the belt, great, NOW...can I ALSO then pull the vacuum line, or should I leave THAT connected? Will I have a vacuum leak if I leave it? ... Danny

 38 
 on: July 31, 2014, 01:10:31 PM 
Started by Vince - Last post by Vince

You don't have a cooling problem, you have a typical fuel percolation problem, aggravated by low E10 fuel boiling points.


Since John brought it up, let's discuss fuel for a second - any local station carry straight (non-ethanol) gas, and/or what are you running through the motor ? I would not recommend any E10 gas for any early engine, especially one that uses neoprene tipped needles in the carb, or rubber fuel lines. Like John indicates, the percolation is a problem, plus the stuff eats everything else, and has an affinity for moisture build up in the tank. Nothing draws a vacuum worse than ethanol in my opinion. Find a race gas distributor and run 100+ octane unleaded, or blend it with non-ethanol regular to stretch it.

I would, regardless, clean the cooling system completely, especially if the motor sits for a decent while without running up to operation temps regularly. Buildups are inevitable internally to the block, heads and radiator - keep them clean and they'll function accordingly.

2 cents -

I live in a small town in the Sierra Foothills in California.  There are no stations around here that I am aware of that sell non-ethanol gas.  I use premium Chevron, Shell, or 76 in it.  I'll do some research to see if I can obtain unleaded racing gas in my local area.  My car does sit every so often, sometimes up to 2 months between my taking it out for a spin.  I plan on having the radiator and engine gone completely over to check for gunk build-up.  Thanks for your info. 

 39 
 on: July 31, 2014, 01:00:54 PM 
Started by Vince - Last post by Vince
Yep - the only thing else to do is slide a stainless steel shim in between the intake and the head on the drivers side right in the middle of the manifold to block that passage.  It will help to reduce the cooking of the carburetor and fuel percolation. Only do this if you have eliminated the heat riser function.

Just go to the kitchen when your wife is not around and find a flat bottomed stanless bowl.  Cut out a flat piece of material with tin snips just wide enough to fit between the manifold bolts in the center of the drivers side. Bend a small tab over to help you push it in.  Loosten the manifold bolts just a little and see if you can slide that metal down in there between the gasket and the intake. Try not to disturb the gasket too much.  Tighten the bolts back up and see if that helps.  It worked for me when I had the percolation issue.

PS - if you go snatch the bowl when the wife is watching, you are a BOSS!  Cheesy

Good luck!

-Mark.

I definitely will install the blocking shims on the driver's side intake manifold.  I know that my heat riser function has been disabled.  I am not going to take the chance of cutting the shim as you described whether the wife is around or not. She would miss the bowl even if she didn't actually see me take it.  Smiley

 40 
 on: July 31, 2014, 12:52:50 PM 
Started by Vince - Last post by Vince
<< Well I was finally able to do some checking on the underhood temps.  I drove the Z for between 2-3 miles to get the engine up to temp.  The outside air temp was in the mid 80's.  While driving the temp gauge stayed right around the first quarter marking, maybe one mark up toward the half marking.  While idling in my driveway the gauge read right at the one half marking.  The engine would not hold a steady idle but slowly had the idle decrease until the engine died.  This happened 3-4 times.  While the engine was not running the temp gauge would increase until it was between the one half marking and the three quarter marking.  This I take to be normal due to heat soak. 
Here are the temps I recorded with an infrared gun: 

radiator hose at thermostat- 183, bottom radiator hose- 164  >>

The last line above are the only temps that mean anything, and they're normal - don't agonize over all the other external temps - they are what they are, and you can't change them. You don't have a cooling problem, you have a typical fuel percolation problem, aggravated by low E10 fuel boiling points. Insulating your fuel line from the frame to the carb will help, as will an aluminum heat shield that extends under both fuel bowls. E10 fuel boils at 150*F, and at extended idle, the fuel bowls get hotter than that.



Thanks JohnZ for your insight.  My car already had the aluminum heat shield installed when I bought it from the previous owner 18 yrs. ago.  I'll try insulating the fuel line as you suggested. 

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