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31
From a post I made earlier on YSC.net:

This coming from an agency that produced John Beale, Sr. Policy Advisor. Oh, and claimed to be a CIA operator while bilking the EPA for nearly $1m that they actually could prove.
http://www.washingtonian.com/2014/03/04/the-suit-who-spooked-the-epa/

For many years the EPA has been an agency that keeps just trying to make itself relevant by creating insane policies like the ones concerning ethanol fuel.
32
Restoration / Re: Door to Rocker alignment. End of adjustment.
« Last post by X33RS on February 09, 2016, 08:08:50 PM »
I'd pick the lesser of 2 evils.   I'd much rather have aftermarket parts in my door hinges than live with doors that won't align properly.  It's the alignment that everyone sees.

I don't believe aftermarket rebuild kits in door hinges affect the value of the car 1 bit....bad gaps however....

Trying to make you feel better about it  ;D
33
Originality / Re: Hurst blower motor cage ?
« Last post by SgtHawkUSMC on February 09, 2016, 08:04:20 PM »
Here's the one out of my 69. You're right about it looking like the Hurst "H".





34
Originality / Re: Hurst blower motor cage ?
« Last post by paulmanta on February 09, 2016, 07:55:40 PM »
Is it !  Ah ha !

The Logo looks a lot like a Hurst logo, its quite small and probably where my mistake was made.

Thanks.
35
Originality / Re: Hurst blower motor cage ?
« Last post by 1968 Z28 on February 09, 2016, 07:32:21 PM »
My 68 fan has the plastic cage and also has the "H".  The "H" is for the Harrison radiator division.
36
Restoration / Re: Door to Rocker alignment. End of adjustment.
« Last post by SgtHawkUSMC on February 09, 2016, 07:29:29 PM »

Are you trying to get the door to fender and rocker to fender to be an even gap?   It is not necessary, you can get your door gap by spacing back from the rocker, leaving the rocker proud of the door. 

I guess you could say yes, but I'm really not thinking about the fender to door gap right yet though. My door edge on the driver's side is in line with the end of the rocker. I'm trying to make both drivers and passenger sides symmetrical or close to it. Call it OCD, but it would bug me if it weren't. Also, the gaps wouldn't match side to side if I don't do it. With it being different sides I'm sure no one would notice and I know it isn't a big deal, but I'd like to get it close if I can. It will make the door to rear quarter gap closer to being within spec also. It's a little tight for my liking right now.


I haven't really touched the front fender gap at this point. I actually took it off on Sunday to better assess the door to rocker alignment. In the picture I think I had three bolts holding it on. I'm just trying to line up the front edge of the door with the front edge of the rocker. Once I'm able to do that, I'll be able to see where I stand with the gaps. The rocker is pretty straight. It must be the angle of the pic where you're seeing a bump. I'm not sure.
Why? it is not unusual for doors to be set slightly set back from the leading edge of the rocker. Yours just need to go forward a tad by the simple alterations discussed. You need to establish your quarter to door gap, then proceed forward. If you want gaps better than factory, start modifying panels. Panel alignment is a choreography and loosely fitting the fender is not helping you. Rebuilding hinges prior to any panel alignment is standard practice. Factory panels are not always going to give you the results you want. Live with them of do what is required to achieve the fit you want.
I hear you loud and clear Scott. I appreciate it. The fender really has nothing to do with what I've been doing. I've already taken it off. I just had it on there temporarily. Before I go any further I'm going to rebuild the hinge. It has a little slop in it. I wish I didn't have to because the rebuild kits are so different, but it is what it is. I saw an OER kit that didn't look bad other than the expense.
37
Survivor Cars / Re: Z28 cowl paint (and Z11/Z10)
« Last post by 1968 Z28 on February 09, 2016, 07:28:53 PM »
All great discussion & info on the PBT stampings but shouldn't this be separated into another thread for better searching in the future?
Was thinking the same thing...this has morphed into two different aspects of the same area.
38
Survivor Cars / Re: Z28 cowl paint (and Z11/Z10)
« Last post by 1968 Z28 on February 09, 2016, 07:26:10 PM »
Isn't the cowl paint, and how it was painted related to the PBT stamps since some of the cowl paint 'misted' down over the upper reaches of the firewall (to wit, James' post)...??  which came first?  the chicken or the egg?  :)
As stated above.....seems that in my case the mist is from the firewall blackout below and the stripe blackout is rather solid to the breakover.  Don't know they got the stripe blackout transition to look that smooth.
39
Survivor Cars / Re: Z28 cowl paint (and Z11/Z10)
« Last post by 1968 Z28 on February 09, 2016, 07:21:48 PM »


It appears there is Ermine white mist over the firewall, the inspection marks are over the white mist correct?

Hi James.....The car color is Ermine white and that is the basic color showing through the fogged on firewall blackout.  The firewall blackout is good up to the seam but above the seam the firewall paint seems to be rather sparse....as I said earlier it looks to be fogged on and has a rough texture.  That fog goes from the heater motor area all the way over to the windshield wiper area where the black is really faint and the white really shows up well.  After the windshield wiper hole the firewall paint is good and solid. The cowl blackout for the stripe is solid all the way across and ends at the firewall breakover in a smooth transition.  And yes, the stamp is on top of the foggy area.
40
Restoration / Re: Door to Rocker alignment. End of adjustment.
« Last post by Sauron327 on February 09, 2016, 07:20:09 PM »
I haven't really touched the front fender gap at this point. I actually took it off on Sunday to better assess the door to rocker alignment. In the picture I think I had three bolts holding it on. I'm just trying to line up the front edge of the door with the front edge of the rocker. Once I'm able to do that, I'll be able to see where I stand with the gaps. The rocker is pretty straight. It must be the angle of the pic where you're seeing a bump. I'm not sure.
Why? it is not unusual for doors to be set slightly set back from the leading edge of the rocker. Yours just need to go forward a tad by the simple alterations discussed. You need to establish your quarter to door gap, then proceed forward. If you want gaps better than factory, start modifying panels. Panel alignment is a choreography and loosely fitting the fender is not helping you. Rebuilding hinges prior to any panel alignment is standard practice. Factory panels are not always going to give you the results you want. Live with them of do what is required to achieve the fit you want.
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