Recent Posts

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21
General Discussion / LM-1 car?
« Last post by BULLITT65 on May 29, 2017, 05:43:23 PM »
I saw this original looking 69 on ebay, and wondered if it would be a LM-1 car if the 350 is original to the car?
I am guessing the bumper guards were a option.( I haven't seen the larger bumper guards on a non Z car)

Any other items stand out?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201938837175?ul_noapp=true
22
Restoration / Re: 68 non belt reveal fuzzies
« Last post by 68Zproject on May 29, 2017, 05:04:00 PM »
Sorry Sauron, I looked over posts and found the one where you talked about Glen-Ray so I'm going to be contacting him.  Sounds great.  If you trust him that's good enough for me.

I have an original radiator for my car and I had the tanks taken off so I could straighten out a dent.  That shop said my core was ok and they could  fix the few holes in it and re-use it.  It sounds like I could just send him the whole thing and he could decide that or replace it with 100% correct stuff if needed?  Restore it to assembly line correct?  I assume they will know where to put the AB clip, tag and lower shroud clips?
23
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Engine Pad Stamps
« Last post by jdv69z on May 29, 2017, 04:16:01 PM »
Looks to me like the date was done with one stamp, the MO with a another. But that's a total guess on my part.
24
Maintenance / Re: 68 Muncie talishaft
« Last post by 68Zproject on May 29, 2017, 03:55:14 PM »
Thanks guys.  I spent way too much time looking at this last night and figured the problem is in the cutout for the 69 vs. 68.  69 is back just about the distance I would need to center the shifter in my hole which is probably why they have that funky 68 set up.  I know technically it bolts to the tranny but it does sit on the crossmember.  Maybe it'll be alright, it's my only option unless there is someone making a custom mount.  I'm just going to send the whole install kit back and exchange it for the 68 one and let them know this info for future people that try what I did.  Trouble is they are on vacation until June 4th.  I need a shop damn it.  Long story.
25
Originality / Re: 1969 Z/28 Sway Bar End Links
« Last post by 169INDY on May 29, 2017, 03:47:04 PM »
The 69 AIM Nut part number is shown in the AMK book as a std hex nut (i.e. NOT Locking style)
I think the constant pressure from the compression of the rubber bushings puts enough preload "locking" pressure on the nut to preclude loosening. Could be an improvement having a 1/2 height 'jam' nut to be SURE it does not back off.

the sample in the picture is FINE thread? correct? (5/16-24UNF)

Jim
26
Restoration / Re: 68 non belt reveal fuzzies
« Last post by 68Zproject on May 29, 2017, 03:39:48 PM »
NOS doesn't always mean assembly line correct, unfortunately.  I guess I can go through threads and see if anything new has come up.  I have pictures from a while back that show the correct ones for the belted one, but I don't have any for non-reveal.  I don't know about Glen Ray.  Sorry, I've been off here for a long time.  I'll look them/him up.  Unless you'd want to pm me contact info.  Thanks Sauron!
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Originality / Re: 1969 Z/28 Sway Bar End Links
« Last post by 68Zproject on May 29, 2017, 03:25:16 PM »
I got an original set off a 68 for my car and they didn't have those locking nuts either.  It was a 68 though.  They were so original that I went around a corner and one of the bolts broke.  I should have just kept them for show.  I of course had to replace the bolt with a repop one.
28
Originality / Re: 1969 Z/28 Sway Bar End Links
« Last post by william on May 29, 2017, 03:14:05 PM »
I haven't seen the PAL nuts; not shown in the Assembly Instruction Manual. Z/28s were not different, used the production front sway bar & hardware.
29
Originality / 1969 Z/28 Sway Bar End Links
« Last post by Edgemontvillage on May 29, 2017, 02:52:06 PM »
Has anyone seen Pal locking nuts used on sway bar end links on an original 1969 Z?







30
Garage Talk / Re: Flux Capacitor
« Last post by z28z11 on May 29, 2017, 02:31:27 PM »
Why hassle with plutonium, uranium or thorium when you can just head to Wally World and buy a Mr. Fusion converter to power the capacitor ? Probably made in China, anyways -

Steve
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