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 on: April 20, 2015, 04:53:20 PM 
Started by barsteel - Last post by 69Z28-RS

This Rick's catalog page shows you the battery holding components you might need (for reference).

 on: April 20, 2015, 04:25:47 PM 
Started by barsteel - Last post by firstgenaddict
The battery hold down is NOT a frame that goes over the top.

It is a 4 inch long by 1.25 or so wide stamped piece which goes into a recess at the bottom of the battery case.
Generally to get the best parts you are going to have to buy from Multiple Vendors.
Just dashes does 68 dash pads if the repros are not correct. They also do A pillar moldings.

Heart Beat City is good as is D&R.
HBC has some nice correct parts manufactured.

 on: April 20, 2015, 02:16:07 PM 
Started by barsteel - Last post by barsteel

Finally went through the Purgatory of CT DMV to get my '68 Z28 registered.  I dragged it home from NC in January, and posted some pics at that time.

Now that it has a plate and insurance, this plan is to go through it, fix anything that might need fixing, and drive it for the summer.  I've already had it out, and, aside for some squeaks and rattles, it drives pretty well....steering is decently tight, the car tracks straight, and I moves very nicely if you put your foot into it (which I did once or twice).

Anyway, the first thing I have to order is a new dash pad, as the original one I trashed, and the two interior pillar trim pieces (possibly...I have the originals, going to give them a good once over).

I've also got to get the battery hold down frame top and hardware, as the battery is just sitting on the tray at the moment.

This is my first Camaro (well, since that '69 RS I had when I was 17), and my first time ordering parts for the car.


Which vendor, in your opinion, has the best quality parts and service?

I'm not so much concerned with the lowest price, rather with the best quality.

Feel free to throw out whatever names you've had the best experience with.


Monroe, CT

 on: April 20, 2015, 02:00:41 PM 
Started by adjudimo - Last post by cook_dw
069 & 163 are GM aluminum intakes for rectangle port heads and Im assuming you dont have since you have a cast iron intake. I would stick with what you have and swap the gear out for a 3.42 or 3.55 and that will help with gas mileage..  If you are dead set on swapping intake and carb just go with a edelbrock or weiand intake (aftermarket aluminum) with a 600cfm 4160 carb which will also help in mileage but you will loose top end but gain bottom end torque with a smaller carb..  

Ok there's my $0.02

Holley (same as a Weiand.  Same company) intake with 780 Holley and open element air cleaner with SS hood.  No issues but I am not running insulation.  For the record, my fathers 68 L78 insulation rubbed the air cleaner and eventually wore a hole in it so he pulled it because it would suck the insulation around the air cleaner at WOT..  I would venture to bet most if not all had the same issue when new or a year or 2 old.

 on: April 20, 2015, 01:14:34 PM 
Started by adjudimo - Last post by adjudimo
 I wouldn't mind a boost in power, but mainly I would like drivability. I currently have 4:10 gears with a T-350 that someone along the line stuck in the car and gas millage is awful. Little over 3000 rpm at around 50mph'ish.  After I get the carb/intake part ironed out, I will try to figure out which overdrive trans to purchase and stick in to help with drivability and gas millage. At my stage in life, I would rather have a car that I can enjoy/cruise/take places; instead of hopping around short distances around town from time to time. My current intake it seems is a midrise cast unit and with the 3 inch open air cleaner on top the 4175, the top front of the air filter lid has cut into the hood insulation. I rather like the look of an aluminum intake instead of the painted cast; personal taste. I have read that the C396 intake would be a good choice but haven't seen one listed for sell. I would even like to go with an electric choke if I could. I like Holley as well, just not the one I have. Everything I read tells me that I would get better millage from a QJ carb. So with all this, which really isn't much; I was seeking you guys knowledge and thoughts be-for I proceed. Some of you guys has forgot more about this stuff than many of us ever knew!

L78 steve
I will research the 069 and 163 intakes, because I am not familiar with them. Might be silly question, but what brand, edelbrock, holley, GM?

 on: April 20, 2015, 11:52:06 AM 
Started by BillOhio - Last post by X33RS
Thanks for the PM's and clearification.

 on: April 20, 2015, 10:25:17 AM 
Started by mcp - Last post by firstgenaddict
I just measured it on a EJ Cady dial caliper with industry spec anvils (some specific sq inches) and I came up with .075.
This is the masticated rubber with the string cords in it.
I will post photos this week.

 on: April 20, 2015, 09:13:37 AM 
Started by john302 - Last post by 69Z28-RS
'from prior threads on this subject'....

Re: 69 Z28 Engine Bay Pic's
Quote from: william on December 07, 2013, 10:22:41 AM
Upper control arms were assembled to the shaft with the bushings, then dip painted black. Ball joint added afterwards. So the shafts were painted to begin with but it did not adhere well. If you look closely at the Hot Rod test car it is apparent.

Very well done engine bay David!

   Were the washer and bolts added after the A-arm was mounted to the frame, or was it part of the completed and painted assembly (minus the tightening of the bolts of course).

Washer and bolt were installed and painted with the control arm. The only vintage road test photo I know of where it is clearly visible is the July '68 PHR test of a '68 Camaro SS.

 on: April 20, 2015, 08:36:48 AM 
Started by john302 - Last post by john302
Does the upper shaft and bushings get painted with the control arm? I looked at a few originals and the shafts, bushing and bolts ,washers look like they were painted.Any thoughts on this? thanks John

 on: April 19, 2015, 10:33:30 PM 
Started by Axlman - Last post by x77-69z28
Came back that you don't know who I am.

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