Recent Posts

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General Discussion / Re: 12 bolt spring perch welds
« Last post by janobyte on July 05, 2015, 02:06:32 PM »
Weak area. Someone may of reinforced OR repaired. Welds passenger and driver's side ? front and rear? Beads laying like a roll of times or nasty scar.
Sort of joking, but reason I ask, uniform work may lead to some indication of "beefing" it up. Single nasty " scar" might point to repair. Just speculating having no knowledge of your car's prior use. Correct in assuming no leaks?

Post a pic, probably get a few answers ASAP.
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General Discussion / 12 bolt spring perch welds
« Last post by myblue67 on July 05, 2015, 12:55:35 PM »
 Finally found the shell of a 67 12 bolt with radius rod bracket. Noted the welds around the spring perches are "beefed up" relative to what I would say was an original weld. How common was it to do this...or am i looking at a repair job?
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Maintenance / Re: L48 Gear ratio w/ P-Glide
« Last post by myblue67 on July 05, 2015, 12:29:27 PM »
Thanks Mike. I'm not aware of the manual you reference, but would like to find it.
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General Discussion / Re: Front Bumper Guards
« Last post by ZLP955 on July 05, 2015, 10:56:31 AM »
Fascinating information, much appreciated William.
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Originality / Re: 67-69 Leaf Spring Shackles
« Last post by SgtHawkUSMC on July 05, 2015, 03:37:41 AM »
It actually is very hard to get the perfect ANGLE when trying to show short distances. I would say use a stick rule, or a 1 foot or 3 foot ruler. They are flat, and can lay down without curvature of a standard tape measure. But no matter what, you can't show the measurements at EACH end at the same time accurately if the item is more than 3 or 4 inches. It gets worse as the item gets longer. You can only show one side accurately at a time. At least that's what it seems to me. So you have to show the finished distance, and hope for the best.. D   
That's what I tried to do with my pics. I made it so you could see the correct distance, but you can't see where it starts as well.
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General Discussion / Re: Front Bumper Guards
« Last post by william on July 05, 2015, 03:10:01 AM »
Not that simple. 1969 Camaro dealer/customer ordering information was fragmented and confusing.

There was the showroom brochure, aptly named as it is what you would obtain at the dealer. There are at least two US versions of it: initial release and R1. R1 added the orange and yellow hounds-tooth interiors and the ducted hood, noted changes such as dropping the 327. But it never listed all the high performance options such as L78 or M22. The initial release did list JL8 even though it was not available.

There was the showroom album which covered all models. It was much more detailed; had actual paint and upholstery samples. It was to be continuously updated but most dealers did not bother.

There was a salesman’s pocket guide, same basic info as the showroom brochure with pricing information.

The best and most comprehensive source of ordering information was the Chevrolet Motor Vehicle Price Schedule. In its entirety, 10 pages of information. There are eight known revisions of it and probably more as the last date I have is June 6, 1969.

This culminated with the 1969 Camaro Order Form. 3 known versions: 6-68, 7-68, 12-68. Furnished to dealers on a pad; they were serialized with a 6-character alpha-numeric code in the upper rh corner that appeared on the window sticker. Every Camaro was ordered using this form.  It was unusually structured in that it did not list all options on the front. For example it only lists M20 ‘wide-range’ 4 speed; M21 & M22 had to be specified in the “additional options and special instructions” box.

Chevrolet made many changes to standard and optional equipment over the model run. It must have been challenging for a dealership to keep current.
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Originality / Re: how to duplicate correct trunk paint for a 69 LA Z28
« Last post by ZLP955 on July 05, 2015, 12:56:59 AM »
I'm keen to hear if there has been any recent progress in finding a technique for this too. As you know, the LOS spatter is much more stringy than NOR, yet because of the far higher numbers of NOR cars, that is the effect predominantly striven for.
There is a good thread over at sYc with a lot of reference photos and test cards, but again, mostly targeting the NOR look. URL is http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/510226/all/1969_Camaro_Trunk_paint
I have not trialled it yet, but this product has been recommended to me as a good product to use:
https://www.opgi.com/chevelle/1969/car-care-paint/paints-coatings-dyes-markers/CH26945/
That said, the difference between the 2 assembly plant's trunk paint is likely to be the application equipment, and without a lot of trial and error, not sure that this will ever be fully understood.
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Originality / Re: wire harness wrap
« Last post by BillOhio on July 04, 2015, 11:18:58 PM »
I got a chance to work on this more and there is a tan wrap at the end harness that looks like woven cloth that's an inch wide. Lectric limited has some fiberglass wrap that might be similar.  Anyone have an idea how long an area this was used to the starter? I didn't see anything in the aim.
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Originality / Re: 67-69 Leaf Spring Shackles
« Last post by dannystarr on July 04, 2015, 09:59:01 PM »
It actually is very hard to get the perfect ANGLE when trying to show short distances. I would say use a stick rule, or a 1 foot or 3 foot ruler. They are flat, and can lay down without curvature of a standard tape measure. But no matter what, you can't show the measurements at EACH end at the same time accurately if the item is more than 3 or 4 inches. It gets worse as the item gets longer. You can only show one side accurately at a time. At least that's what it seems to me. So you have to show the finished distance, and hope for the best.. D   
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Maintenance / Re: Starting problems
« Last post by rich69rs on July 04, 2015, 09:50:54 PM »
Happy 4th to eveyone.

FYI

The starter solenoid has been working perfectly with the lighter spring for a few weeks now. I got the silver grease in the mail but haven't used it on the connections yet because the car is running well and now is the time to be driving the car. The weather is too nice to spend in the garage working on it.

Mike.

Mike,

Great news and good to hear that you found the source of your hard starting issue.  About 11 years ago I ran into a similar situation with the starter (part number 1108338) in my '69 RS (327 with Powerglide).  Went through many of the same checks that you've struggled through and finally had the starter and solenoid rebuilt and since then it has been 100% reliable at all times, cold, hot, etc.

Moral of my story was that although all of the electrical connections were obviously very important to ensure minimal voltage drop, etc., the root cause of the my hard starting issue was the starter / solenoid itself.  Had both rebuilt and all has been good since.

Ran across the attached while looking for something else recently and I thought I would include it here for the future reference of others.  You will note, that after making a few basic checks, Chevrolet's recommendation to the dealers back in Dec 1968 was to replace the starter. 

Happy 4th of July!

Richard
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