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 11 
 on: August 21, 2014, 09:06:43 PM 
Started by Steve Holmes - Last post by jvb6648
Steve there was a Jeff Hoyt in Buffalo N.Y. who raced a 67 or 68 Camaro, he took the rear fenders of a VW and used them on the front. He turned them around so the rear portion of the fender was facing forward so the lower portion would be used to make an air dam. The front VW fenders were used on the rear, not sure how he fitted them. I think it was around '68 or'69 when I saw the car, looked sharp.

 12 
 on: August 21, 2014, 09:04:28 PM 
Started by muskieron - Last post by Jon Mello
I would use a semi-gloss or satin black, not anything like a flat black. The argent silver would be good for the other part. I don't know of any reproduction '68 grilles that come pre-painted correctly.

 13 
 on: August 21, 2014, 08:05:31 PM 
Started by 69 Zee - Last post by 69 Zee
Hello all,
Thought I try here for an answer to what are the correct Alternator brackets for a 69 Z/28 with the original alternator.  I was given some parts for a 69 Z that I have and I happen to get 2 different front lower Alternator brackets.   They have different bents in them at different locations.  Ones got to be the correct one.  What would the other be for and why.  I have the factory #837 Alternator as well.  Are the brackets different because the alternators are different from one another.. an #837 from a regular Alt ?

Thanks for any help.  

 14 
 on: August 21, 2014, 07:34:25 PM 
Started by dannystarr - Last post by janobyte
Also ,I believe John Z has an article on finding if your "pointer" (on timing cover) is off in relation to the line on your balancer. You may find it to be a few degrees off.

May be as simple as when they,at one time,pulled the distributor they just set it back in the easiest way it would drop in.And rerouted the plug wires to compensate on the cap.

Lars Grimsrud also has some short reference papers on checking your balancer marks, finding TDC, and installing a distributor so it is in the correct factory position.

Would be good reading. Forgot to mention the shaft, Chick caught it. Turns very easy.

Just post when you get ready to install it--steve

 15 
 on: August 21, 2014, 05:15:55 PM 
Started by sbmiano - Last post by 68camaroz28
Assembly manual shows it for the L78. Bracket is mounted to the valve cover to hold the tube
Are you referring to the PCV hose bracket for L78? As John mentioned its attached to the right side carb nut.

 16 
 on: August 21, 2014, 05:07:14 PM 
Started by oldtransamdriver - Last post by Jon Mello
Thanks, Scott. They are very nice but the price is beyond what I'm willing to pay for a new car. Not to be nit-picky but I'd like to see the Z stripes be part of the package on the 6th-gen Z/28s.

 17 
 on: August 21, 2014, 05:02:34 PM 
Started by Steve Holmes - Last post by Jon Mello
Off the top of my head, I don't think the rear spoiler had a lot of effect until the speed started getting up to about 90-100MPH. The front spoilers were more effective than the rear.

 18 
 on: August 21, 2014, 05:00:28 PM 
Started by Steve Holmes - Last post by Jon Mello
Steve, early on the tires were not that wide and not much was done on independent cars other than maybe rolling the lips of the fenders or doing some trimming. I can tell you that the wheel wells on my car were completely unmodified and even had the stock lip in the back. My car was not lowered out like some other T/A cars of the day as they were going to return it to a street car when they were done racing it. The Penske team cars had custom made wheel tubs in the back that allowed more room on the inside, similar in nature to the mini-tubs you see today. Ron Fournier is shown wailing on the fenders with a hammer to build the fender flares on the '69 team cars in the video "Four Hands on the Wheel". If you don't have that video, you should try and acquire a copy. It has some great content. As tires got wider, then it became necessary to add material to have enough coverage of the tires. They still had to use 8" wide wheels up through 1972 but it was amazing the size of the tire that they were able to fit on those wheels due to the design of the tire sidewalls.

 19 
 on: August 21, 2014, 05:00:16 PM 
Started by dannystarr - Last post by 68camaroz28
HELP.. I pulled my distributor cap last night and wanted to rotate the engine to number one, get it ready for the dist. to drop back in. Brought it to TDC and the rotor was facing right at the center of the right hood hinge. So I thought, well, I need to go around, so I went around again and the rotor ended up right in the corner of left inner fender and cowl. What's the deal, what am I doing wrong? Is it because I needed to only go 180 degrees instead of a full 360? I pulled it out and will worry about it later. The rubber advance limiter bumper was gone! Just as you guys said it probably was. The shaft is very tight in it's hole with no movement side to side. BUT the shaft moves up and down 3/8th's of an inch or more.. Yikes!! The 532 point plate WAS there after all. Previous owner said it might have been changed. So that's a plus. Taking it to a speed shop in San Fran for a set-up. Hoping to have the Master, Dist., Alt all rebuilt internally ONLY. No outside restoration. That way I can keep the survivor visual. Then along with the new WP, throw it all back on in a month or two and see what I got... Danny

   P.S.
 Which way do I turn the center crank pulley bolt for removal. Is it standard thread? The old righty tighty, lefty lucy?

Danny, sometimes when dropping the distributor back in the hole the oil pump shaft needs to be aligned so it drops in correctly.  Check the bottom of the distributor on how you want to align it and see how the gear will match the oil pump shafts slot. Many times a long screwdriver is needed for slight adjustments for alignment and full drop in. Not sure what you have but that might be the issue.
Love that butternut 68 Z/28.....

 20 
 on: August 21, 2014, 04:51:51 PM 
Started by dannystarr - Last post by TRLAND
Also ,I believe John Z has an article on finding if your "pointer" (on timing cover) is off in relation to the line on your balancer. You may find it to be a few degrees off.

May be as simple as when they,at one time,pulled the distributor they just set it back in the easiest way it would drop in.And rerouted the plug wires to compensate on the cap.

Lars Grimsrud also has some short reference papers on checking your balancer marks, finding TDC, and installing a distributor so it is in the correct factory position.

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