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General Discussion / Re: '68 Z/28
« Last post by BillOhio on Today at 12:12:03 AM »
Good color too. Hmm
General Discussion / Re: My New '68 Camaro Z/28 Butternut Yellow
« Last post by BULLITT65 on Today at 12:05:04 AM »
Danny you have a good thing going here...
maybe I talk you into sending me the ones you don't use... ::)
General Discussion / Re: My New '68 Camaro Z/28 Butternut Yellow
« Last post by jeff68 on August 04, 2015, 11:33:43 PM »
Here is some of the correct batch that I found. Will be on the look-out for more.. D
I have four MICRO 1 "winged" weights just as you pictured.  1 is mint, 1 has a small hammer ding in the middle, and 2 only have minor squishing of the text in a spot.
As long as you are going to use them yourself, or "pay it forward" to the next guy, then PM me and we'll work out how to get them to you.
Originality / Re: M21 Correct Oil
« Last post by jeff68 on August 04, 2015, 11:23:09 PM »
Sorry I'm a little late to the game on this one, but I've had to deal with the issue of yellow metal corrosion and gear lubes at work. 

The issue really isn't GL-4 vs. GL-5.  Some people claim that the GL-5 gear oils attacks yellow metals, but most gear oil manufacturers now use non-active sulfur phosphorus EP (extreme pressure) additives which don't attack the yellow metals.  Also, even if it is the 'old' type additive, yellow metal attack usually doesn't occur until the temperature gets to about 240F - hopefully above the temp that any of your internal gearbox components experience.

The problem with finding a gear oil for use in transmissions is finding one without Limited Slip (LS) additives. My personal experience is that the LS additives are usually what gives you problems with your synchros and causes grinding upon shifting.

So, if you can find a GL-4 or GL-5 that doesn't state that it has LS additives, then you should still be OK using it in your transmission. I have yet to find any GL-5 locally that does not contain LS additives. I used to be able to find Exxon Superflo 80W80 GL-5 without LS additives, but I believe it is no longer available.

I use CRC StaLube GL-4 85W90 gear oil in my M20.
1968 - Orphans / Re: 8L300346 Protect O Plate
« Last post by Daytona Yellow 69 Z/28 on August 04, 2015, 08:32:33 PM »
I dont know enough about them to know ..   :-[
here are a couple of pics..

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Bulkhead Numbers and Letters ?
« Last post by cook_dw on August 04, 2015, 07:25:42 PM »
Just to be clear that 69's (to my knowledge) are the only ones that have known codes on the bulkhead..  67 & 8's had the occasional marking but I do not know the relevance or meanings behind them..
General Discussion / Re: '68 Z/28
« Last post by RUNUTZ on August 04, 2015, 06:46:55 PM »
The owners have owned/sold numerous Supercars.Always pretty accurate with their descriptions.Car is outside of Knoxville Tn.I went to look at the 68 Yenko they had for sale awhile ago.
General Discussion / Re: '68 Z/28
« Last post by firstgenaddict on August 04, 2015, 06:39:31 PM »
Yes they included a template, however some were extremely crude using a drill to drill holes the perimeter etc.
This car would be incredible done.
I am going to assume they accidentally left out a photo of the unique 68 warranty book feature... If you have a 68 warranty book you'll know. 
Originality / Re: Brake Booster Valve Tag
« Last post by Camarocards on August 04, 2015, 06:06:10 PM »

I would take the original have a ink stamp made with CG and stamp my own.

X2. When it came time to replicate the stamp on my wiper motor (see pic below) I created the artwork and had a stamp made by the Stamp Connection ( Very good people to work with and it cost $10.95 for the stamp. If you need help creating the artwork send me a PM.


They were on manilla or buff stock, you have the original I believe the thickness is approx .030-.035.

I dug up the tag that I purchased years and years ago and it measures .030 but the stock is much more yellow in color than what Dan has posted or what I see being offered by the repro companies. Do you know if the tag is suppose to be white or more yellowish in color?


Decoding/Numbers / Re: Bulkhead Numbers and Letters ?
« Last post by firstgenaddict on August 04, 2015, 06:04:12 PM »
yours is a black interior car isn't it?
And the exterior color is? White I am assuming?
Do you think it is under the white paint?
I'm reasonably sure it was written after prime before paint. which I believe is when the TT went on ... they are not primed. as a matter of fact there was something taped to the firewall between the TT rivet holes. when this car was primed.

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