Messages

901

General Discussion / Question regarding original dealer info now available

« on: December 05, 2015, 01:14:04 PM »

I just want to make sure I'm clear on this.   Using the link provided and reading it over.  At the bottom it states from serial number 508855 to 587275 is not available.

I want to make sure I understand, that if my serial number falls in between these then there is no sense in sending away for documentation?   Do I understand this correctly?

902

General Discussion / Re: De-rusting my drive shaft... What to preserve it with??

« on: December 05, 2015, 12:47:59 PM »

I use Boeshield Gary with excellent results. 
   A little tip, these driveshaft tubes have a seam the entire length.  If you want to get fancy and duplicate the factory blueing affect from welding that seam when these things were new, (it may or may not be present after cleaning) I use gun blue (forget the actual name) that is available at any of your outdoor stores like Bass Pro or Dicks.  About $10 for a bottle.  I mask off what would be the seam, rub in the gun blue with a rag and wipe it off until you get the affect you want.  Remove the tape and buff on the edging with a rag to make the edge fade away.
   This can also be done where the ends were welded on too.   All this takes more time but when finished it looks like a brandy new factory shaft, coat with boeshield and done 

903

General Discussion / Re: Tires

« on: December 05, 2015, 12:41:05 PM »

Lawrence,
  Mine could be categorized as basically worn suspension parts    I'll replace control arm bushings, shocks, and any other wear items that may need attention for safety reasons, but the stock 46 year old springs will stay in the car.
  235-60's are listed as 9.5 section width and 26.1 tall.  The 215-65's are a tad smaller at 8.7 and 26 respectively, so maybe they'll work...??
   So what size are you running on the front of your Z with the tired suspension?   The same 235-60's you have on the other car?

904

General Discussion / Tires

« on: December 05, 2015, 04:15:58 AM »

I know this has probably been asked to death, and I've searched with no real definitive answers.

What size tires are you getting away with on the front of a 69 RS Z28 Camaro?   I keep seeing 215/65-15 pops up a lot but not really clear on whether the cars are RS's or not in the examples described.   This tire is a little shorter than the E-70-15's, but possibly slightly wider, it may or may not work.
   I have a changer/balancer so I'm going to experiment with some 255-60's on the rear with used tires I have laying around.  I don't have any 215-65's here to try though, kind of an odd size I don't use on anything else.  Any insight is appreciated.

Car has original 15x7's all around.

905

General Discussion / Re: Tachometer picture/wiring question

« on: December 04, 2015, 07:25:25 PM »

Either I'm good at stumping you guys or this is just too easy 

I decided to take a chance and temporarily wire it on a running car with a correct working tach.  I figured if I fried it I'd just buy another one.  So here is what I found, maybe this will help someone.

As pictured above...
Top right goes to coil
Top left goes to key on power
Bottom is ground.

Interestingly, when you switch the top two terminals the tach still functions but it reads almost exactly 200 rpm slow.   Hope this helps..

906

General Discussion / Re: DZ cam pictures

« on: December 03, 2015, 07:49:20 PM »

Thanks Harold, speaking of cams, your name reminded me of Harold from Ultradyne, a camshaft genius who sadly passed away not long ago.  His work and research was passed on to a friend of mine at Koerner Racing.

I was only vaguely familiar with that chain of events you listed.  I've been told a lot of the Summit racing brand name camshafts are actually melling grinds from what I'm told.  Talking to a lot of the PS racers that need/use factory blueprint cams, most of them prefer the melling grind as the specs come in the closest when checking lobe lift etc...I recently tried a melling grind in a 454 I built earlier this summer.

Anyway before I babble too long, your info does shed some light, we now know what that CWC is for on the camshaft. 

907

General Discussion / Tachometer picture/wiring question

« on: December 03, 2015, 07:29:05 PM »

Going through my stash and have this tach in a box.   I'd like to temporarily run wires to it from a running car just to check and make sure it still works.  My problem is that most factory tachs I deal with have "GRD" or "+" "-"

This tach has none of that.   Could someone possibly tell me from this picture which is key on and which is coil??  I don't want to fry this thing accidently.  Thanks

908

General Discussion / Re: DZ cam pictures

« on: December 03, 2015, 07:25:48 PM »

Here are 2 more pictures.  Numbers and letters I can see that are part of the casting around the fuel pump eccentric are CWC and RSCD 55   
Other than that, there is a faint stamp on the face of the rear journal, hard to see and picture wouldn't even pick it up.  900988 I believe.

This may or may not be much help.  Sorry for the delay, boy these pictures are a pain in the butt.

909

General Discussion / Re: Just noticed an auction for you original BB guys

« on: December 02, 2015, 11:00:09 PM »

I'm an "everything" guy 

It depends on what you get, you do have to be careful, saving a few bucks sometimes cost more in the end. Stock stuff is okay for a mild street car.  If your into making power, even with stock "appearing" stuff,  you'll find a limit with internals.  Lots of power to be had inside the engine with new piston designs, smaller ring packs for less friction (OEM's do that now), lighter pistons and rods, all this stuff frees up power.
    I'm a big fan of Carillo like Bryon mentioned, they are spendy though.  I've also used Eagle that was hit and miss.  For a while even the Eagle rods had issues on the big end, and had to be resized, but that was years ago.  Seems they have straightened that out the last 3-4 years.  Scat has been pretty good to me as well.
   For what it's worth, Tony Bischoff whom I feel is one of the best engine builders in the country, just built a stroker 571 for my father, block, crank, rods, everything aftermarket.  Tony chose to go with Eagle rods in that setup.   To me that says a lot about their quality.

910

General Discussion / Re: Production line question

« on: December 02, 2015, 10:50:57 PM »

Thanks guys, understood.

911

General Discussion / Re: Production line question

« on: December 02, 2015, 08:52:05 PM »

Thanks John,   So I guess you could say it's likely they came down the line the same day?

912

General Discussion / Re: Just noticed an auction for you original BB guys

« on: December 02, 2015, 06:54:14 PM »

Something to keep in mind, those used rods aren't really $20 a rod.   In the end by the time your done with machine work, magnafluxing, resizing, new arp bolts, you are going to be in those rods for about $300 on top of your purchase price.    That's what makes the aftermarket rods so tempting nowadays.  Decent quality rods that are stronger can be had for not much more money than that.  On top of that in most cases, the aftermarket stuff is also lighter in weight, another bonus.

If you are truly on a budget than I can see rebuilding used rods to save a little.

913

General Discussion / Production line question

« on: December 02, 2015, 06:44:33 PM »

  2 cars that have a serial number only 8 digits apart coming down the Norwood assembly line.  How far apart are we talking.  Hours?  Days?

914

General Discussion / Re: 3.07 gears

« on: December 01, 2015, 11:14:08 PM »

I can't imagine a 69 Z28 ever being ordered without a posi.

Possible and not all that unusual; over a dozen in our db. Standard equipment; I had one. Posi was not
desirable on tight road courses. Only a Z/28 could be built with a 3.73:1 non-posi axle.

This car would not have surprised me if it wasn't a posi.  Other than being an RS with deluxe interior, it has no other options on it.  Not a gauge car, no spoilers, no hood.  Doesn't even have power steering.

915

General Discussion / Re: 3.07 gears

« on: December 01, 2015, 11:12:03 PM »

Crawled back under it, can't get a good picture on the ground.  Pretty sure it has a C

Date is 8 11 H   Not 100% certain on the H but that's what it appears to be until I can get it on the lift.

Any way to explain the 68 model year date?

You might be seeing it upside down.  Might be H 11 9  - H is August and the C BL code would then make sense.  Would like to know for sure because we could use your data over in the axle thread concerning this time period.

This is the link to the axle thread.   http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=10375.0;all

Oh, and you can just go ahead and call me Bryon.  Kinda like Brian with a different spelling. 

LOL, all those letter/numbers work upside down and right side up, what are the chances, haha.  I hadn't thought of that.  Best thing for me to do is clean this thing up and get a couple of good pics to post so you guys can figure it out and use it in your data base.  Thanks Bryon.
Larry