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Messages - X33RS

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1021
General Discussion / Re: Oil viscosty and engine temperature
« on: June 14, 2015, 11:08:33 PM »
Nope, not that I've ever seen or read reports of.  I've run Amsoil products for years, in particular their 20w-50 high zinc line.   Their cold pour temp in the 20W is actually better than alot of your 5W's and most of your 10W's thanks to the superior additive package they have.

Here's a chart to compare, just scroll down.  The Amsoil 20W-50 has a pour temp down to -47 degrees.  Compare that to others and make your choice.  Some of the 5W's and 10W's don't really fare that well and won't even come close to the flow abilities of the Amsoil 20W..

It's all about which brand you want to run and the additive package they use.

http://www.bestsyntheticoil.com/amsoil/printable/chart.html 

1022
General Discussion / Re: Vintage Certification @ MCACN 2015
« on: June 11, 2015, 02:45:11 AM »
Haha, yeah I looked it up.  And to make matters even worse it's in November, lol.  I don't go any further East than the Arizona border that time of year  ;) 

1023
General Discussion / Re: Vintage Certification @ MCACN 2015
« on: June 10, 2015, 12:56:12 PM »
I'd love to have my SCJ vintage certified sometime.  Where is this show held?

1024
Thats alot of money for a car that needs restored or your going to redo it.Buy 1 already done. JMO

And that's the other side of the coin.  I agree, no way I'd pay that much for a Z in that kind of shape when there are nice driver quality Z's occasionally forsale in the $50k range.   Paying $30k for one that needs completely gutted and redone and spending at least another $30k to do it right (likely more if you want it 100% correct), I think you can get into one in much better shape that's nearly done for less money if you're patient and willing to travel.

Even if I weren't planning to restore, and I do enjoy driving them in this condition, I still have a hard time spending that kind of $$ for something they made 20,302 of.  Apparently the reserve is higher than $30k, so the seller is dreaming in my opinion, it's already more than all the money the car will bring in that shape (IMO), if I were him I'd take that $30k bid and run, lol.

1025
It can always be restored in the future. JMHO

That's a key statement right there, because once you reach that point the game changes and the fun factor decreases (for me anyway)
    The very small handful of people at the local shows that may keep asking you when you're going to paint it aren't real car enthusiasts.   The people that actually know what they are looking at can and will appreciate the car for what it is just the way it sits.

1026
Just that pic alone I can tell the paint has been played with, on the front at least.  So it's technically not original, I wouldn't worry about trying to preserve it.

However with that said, and since I do this for a living, I'm somewhat sick of the shiny cars I'm afraid to drive or take somewhere.   Driving something like pictured is actually refreshing and less stress.   I have a couple cars in this type of shape I have no intentions of painting just for that reason.   Personally I'd leave it be and go out and enjoy the thing without worry.
   It'll still get tons of attention, trust me  ;)

1027
General Discussion / Re: camaro nationals or carlisle?
« on: May 28, 2015, 10:14:59 PM »
Well that makes 2 of us  ;D

I did try to google it, and a camaro nationals website came up but no where on the home page does it mention anything about where it is that I could find.  I thought that was strange.  They might want to look into that, maybe hire a new web page designer, lol.

1028
General Discussion / Re: camaro nationals or carlisle?
« on: May 28, 2015, 02:34:40 PM »
Never heard of camaro nationals.  Depends on where that is as to whether I'd go.  I've done Carlisle before for Ford and GM, that's usually pretty good.

1029
General Discussion / Re: High Octane Fuel, what to use
« on: May 28, 2015, 12:48:34 PM »
Okay, guess we aren't visiting a dragstrip then  ;D

What's the normal engine temps you see while driving the car?   If it's within reason, and you think you "might" be hearing some light detonation on 91, and since you're obviously not worried about all out performance,  I'd simply back the timing off a couple degrees and leave the 91 octane in there and save yourself some coin.  You're not running the car hard enough to worry about it.

1030
General Discussion / Re: High Octane Fuel, what to use
« on: May 28, 2015, 03:47:56 AM »
Just for future reference, the bungs are 14mm.  I have a box of them here, I weld them into every car I tune for myself and customers.  In a pinch if you're looking for a plug, use a spark plug, it's the same thread.

DA is density altitude.  Weather conditions play a huge roll at the track, when figured into the actual altitude the track is at.  The car can swing a full second when you have extreme DA's from one end to the other.  Tuning for it keeps you busy.  The only way to document progress is to keep tabs on DA and use the correction factor to see if the changes you made were the right direction.
    I fight altitude here all the time living at 5,000 ft and then driving to the valley frequently at about 1,000 ft, or up higher to 7,000 +.  Then toss in the weather conditions that can swing the DA even worse.  On average summer days I can drive off the mountain from 5,000 ft to the valley and see a .4-.5 change on the wideband (going leaner).   I tend to tune each car to find a happy medium that suits the drastic elevation changes around here.  I usually shoot for just a tad on the rich side up here at 5,000 ft, about .3-.4 richer on the AFR, so that when the car goes down near sea level it may be nearly spot on or only .1-.2 lean.  So you have to "fudge" it due to the terrain we are in.
  Quadrajets are a little more forgiving because they have a more precise metering circuit.  Holleys usually get into modifying idle feed restrictors and high speed air bleeds to really fine tune it.  The HP holleys are nice with their screw in air bleeds, I can simply change high speed air bleeds in a minute on the side of the road and affect the AFR .3-.4 tenths if I want the car closer in the terrain I'm driving in. Sorry for babbling but it goes on and on, lol.

   Getting back on the original posters topic, If you have a stock spec 302 with the 30-30 cam and 11:1 compression with stock iron heads and not alot of quench, I've had good luck getting an engine like this to run on pump gas, 91 octane, as long as you keep timing under control and the AFR's are reasonable.  I don't like to push it past 36 degrees total with a controlled curve, and I run the AFR's a little fat at WOT of about 12.5 AFR to keep things safe.  Seems to work as long as engine temps are kept under control.  These engines with dinasour heads and old combustion chambers take a fair amount of ignition lead to make power.  Something in the 34 to 38 range isn't unusual, but our pump gas won't always support that, especially with iron heads.
   If you really want to push it, start leaning it out a tad, and add a couple more degrees of timing, then I personally would feel better about putting a few gallons of higher octane in the tank.  It all just really depends on your combo and it's state of tune.
   If you haven't had the engine on a dyno you won't know for sure where the engine makes best power on timing and AFR.  Each engine varies a bit.  If the engine has been rebuilt you can do things like tighten quench to help fight detonation sensitivity, and other tricks I won't get into now.   I turned a simple question into a very complicated answer so I'll stop before I get even deeper.   ;D

1031
General Discussion / Re: High Octane Fuel, what to use
« on: May 27, 2015, 10:35:30 PM »
Have you dyno'd it to see what it likes?  Do you drive it with pump gas?  Total timing?  Is it built to stock specs?

If you haven't had it on the dyno then it's going to be a game of experimentation at the track as to where it likes total timing, fuel used, AFR, etc....

Running 10% ethanol has a stoich of 14:1, not 14.7:1 that real gas does.  Therefore best WOT AFR is also a solid 1/2 point richer (or slightly more) for best performance. If you've dialed in the carb for local pump gas with 10% ethanol it's going to be a tad on the rich side if you start throwing in real gasoline from the pumps at the track.

If you haven't dialed in the carb for ethanol blend, then the car has been running a tad on the lean side.  Not noticable to most people in the drivability sense,  but something I prefer to pay close attention to with a wideband.

Too many variables involved to give you a straight answer.   May sound like splitting hairs but I'm always looking for that last tenth, then throw in DA and it opens another can of worms.

1032
Legendary has some of the best quality out there, and where I prefer to buy all my interior parts when I can.   I've used PUI, it's okay, but have always been happier with Legendary's fit and finish and overall quality, especially when wanting something as close to correct as possible.  Their stitching and seams/patterns are the closest to OEM I've seen.

1033
General Discussion / Re: Production numbers on RS Z28's?
« on: May 25, 2015, 03:10:00 PM »
  One of my friends in particular (who still owns the car today in unrestored condition) has an RS C.O.P.O. and many believed throughout the 70's and 80's that the car was a fake, simply because it has the RS option. 

Is this friend's car Green? His intials G.S.? You should PM me.

Oops! Scratch that intials, I meant T.S.

Sending you a PM.  Sorry about the late reply it's been a while since I've checked in.

1034

Rare to me would mean less than 1000 cars in a model year.



Those are my thoughts exactly and why I started that previous thread to begin with because I've had a few people approach me (including a close friend) about the rarity of the RS Z.  In my opinion, it's not.  I believe everyones estimates here in earlier discussions of likely 3,000-5,000 made are probably pretty close and not rare in a numbers sense of the word by any means.   I was never looking for an exact number, just a ballpark, and I think those estimates are reasonable. 
   Considering there were 20,000+ Z28's made in 69, which is nothing rare at all, it's a pretty good bet there were a good number of RS's mixed in there.

1035
General Discussion / Re: Production numbers on RS Z28's?
« on: May 22, 2015, 09:56:42 PM »

I KNOW that there are many more Z28s with RS option now than were on the streets in 1969.   

Shucks, there are more Z28's now than ever made without the RS option, lol.  I'd even go as far to say the Z28 has to be the most copied or cloned car in existence.   So much so I'm almost not that excited anymore when they roll into the local cruise.  Tired of seeing the "badged" up cars.

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