Messages

31

Restoration / Re: Reproduction or replacement Radiator for 68 big block

« on: June 13, 2020, 06:57:20 PM »

That's all good feedback and advice. Thanks to everyone who replied. I will check out U.S. Radiator. I have had mixed results with the two radiator shops still open in my area. The best one, with lots of experience and a reasonable clean shop, went out of business about 5 years ago. But I may try to repair the one I have one more time.
Allen

32

Restoration / Re: Reproduction or replacement Radiator for 68 big block

« on: June 12, 2020, 01:14:14 AM »

Thanks guys I appreciate your inputs- but your not answering my question! I would like to hear from anyone who has recently purchased a good reproduction or close to correct replacement radiator ( not an aluminum replacement).

33

Restoration / Re: Reproduction or replacement Radiator for 68 big block

« on: June 11, 2020, 11:53:40 AM »

I haven't found the leak point this time. previous leak was from the core. First leak was around the lower area where tank and core meet.

34

Restoration / Reproduction or replacement Radiator for 68 big block

« on: June 10, 2020, 04:52:22 PM »

I have 1968 L34 with factory AC and TH400 trans. The car currently has an older replacement radiator that looks mostly stock in terms of tanks and brackets. It came with the car when I bought it 7 years ago. However, its leaking again and I have had it repaired twice. So I want a new or at least quality rebuild. I went to find one of the Harrison reproduction radiators with correct top channel and brackets etc. but found out that these have been discontinued at all distributors such as HBC or Rick's( darn it, my timings bad!). Where can I get a quality reproduction or even replacement radiator that looks correct and has all the right features ( 3 or 4 core, 23 ", proper brackets)? Any recommendations or direct experience would be welcome. This is such a great forum, I use CRG for everything from originality to restoration or just for entertaining reading about our favorite cars!
Allen 

35

Restoration / Re: a/c fender baffles for 1968 coupe

« on: January 26, 2020, 11:11:22 PM »

Thanks Ed, your always very helpful to everyone on this forum. Even though these lower baffles/covers were not used before 1969, I found where Camaro Central is producing a metal lower filler panel for 1967 and 1968 Camaros. Do you know where I can get a set of the regular A/C fender baffles for 1968 or just a left side - P/N 3937129 (left)?

36

Restoration / Re: a/c fender baffles for 1968 coupe

« on: January 26, 2020, 07:30:04 PM »

I would like to know more about the lower shield bor BB cars mentioned by jt4406. Were these similar to the ones used on Firebirds? Does anyone have any pictures? I can't find any reference or pictures in my 1968 AIM. Kevin W mentioned above that these were short lived - do you have any additional information or details about them? I have 1968 L34 with factory A/C. I have an original right side A/C baffle for 68 but the left was missing when I got the car ( left fender had been wrecked at some point and I assume the baffle was left off when repaired). I have been looking for some 1968 A/C baffles for several years now without any luck. Some used Camaro part vendors will insist that the fender baffles for 68's and 69's are the same, but of course they are wrong. If anybody has any please contact me. And again I would like to know more about the underside A/C baffle.

Thanks,
Allen

37

Restoration / Re: black on tailpan on ss cars

« on: December 29, 2019, 08:56:32 PM »

I finally had my 68 L34 re-painted about three years ago (July build Butternut yellow with black top). Based on this thread and other resources I had the painter spray the tail panel in 70-80% gloss. This was done with a B/C C/C system so most of the flattener was in the clear. I haven't washed and polished it more than ten or twelve times but I think the tail panel has become more glossy. I avoided putting any polish or swirl remover on the black. Frankly just polishing it with a cloth seems to have made it somewhat more glossy. It still has a slight semi gloss look but against the butternut it really stands out. But according to the above posts my car may have had a glossy tail panel sheen since it was built in hot summer. Folks may want to consider starting with a little more satin look to start, with the idea that as it gets cleaned and polished with time it still retains the semi-gloss look your after.
Allen

38

Originality / Re: date codes for distributor on 68 396

« on: November 17, 2019, 11:21:07 PM »

Thanks for the reply 68bb02. Your rationale for E sounds reasonable to me. How much do you want for your extra distributor? Send me a PM and I will get back to you. I still would like to hear from others about the dates and date gaps between engine parts.

39

Originality / date codes for distributor on 68 396

« on: November 17, 2019, 05:55:26 PM »

My question is about relative stamp dates between correct distributor and the car and engine build date and the other engine parts. I have read many of the posts on the forum but I haven't found good answer to my question. My car is 1968 L34 with A/C PS,PB,PW. The cowl tag indicates build date is 3rd week of July 1968, (Nor plant). The block has been decked at some point and numbers are gone. The Block cast date is February 1968 ( so I doubt it is even original). But I have been trying to get all the parts to be correct just for the fun of it. The heads are correct and have cast date of F 68 and intake is correct with cast date of E68. The exhaust manifolds have correct codes and the dates are D 68 and E 68 ( but hard to read). I found a correct # and date carb from a member on this forum ( I am so grateful). The distributor is a rebuilt and is an incorrect number stamp. It runs fine but I want the "correct" #s. If I want to find an original distributor should I look for a date to match the heads around early June (F) or earlier than that with maybe an E or even D date?
Thanks,
Allen

40

Originality / Re: Dash pad trim for 1968

« on: November 02, 2019, 08:40:32 PM »

Thanks to Ed and Tinkerr for the prompt replys. That's what I needed to know. I figured that the black finish had just faded or maybe had been "polished" off by a previous owner. I definitely trust Ed's input and his other posts have benefited my restoration project. I think I will do what Tinkerr did, tape off the edges and spray paint flat black or satin black on the accent. I appreciate the help. BTW I removed the trim before I sent the core off the be recovered so I will have to find the tab hole locations through the new vinyl covering.
Allen

41

Originality / Dash pad trim for 1968

« on: November 02, 2019, 03:25:22 PM »

My question is about the stainless steel dash pad trim for 68. I have an original metal core dash pad with the trim. I took the trim off and sent the core to be recovered. I bought reproduction trim but the metal tabs that hold the trim to the pad don't line up well with the original holes in the pad. My original trim pieces are usable except that there is no black paint in the middle section of the trim pieces. At first I thought the black paint had just faded with time but there is no evidence at all for the black paint. None on the center connector piece and none on either side of the trim pieces. My question is - did the dash pad trim always come with the inner section painted black? Were there some cases where the trim was unpainted? I like the black stripe visually and I wish I could use the reproduction trim pieces I bought. However, I will have to use my originals. I hope the great experts on this forum can't weigh in on this. If all original trim pieces had the black painted section then I guess I can mask off the edges and paint the trim.
Thanks,
Allen

42

Mild Modifications / Re: gear reduction starter

« on: October 21, 2019, 02:04:11 AM »

Here is an update -  I purchased the PMGR starter for 1998 Chevy 2500 truck with big block from Autozone and installed it with one shim and dorman 678-107 starter bolts ( 3/8-16, 4  5/16 inches long). I used relatively thin washer under the bolt heads. This bolt appears to be just the right length for this starter on my 396. So far so good. The starter is quiet and turns over fast and the car starts quick. First test drive and no hot start hesitation or problem. Note - there is no "R" connector on these starters (yellow wire for stock starter). Although the car starts fine, I am going to add the "R" bypass wire to make sure I have full 12 volts to coil during start up. Thanks for the reply's.
Allen

43

Mild Modifications / Re: gear reduction starter

« on: October 20, 2019, 12:35:10 PM »

The car is stock with cast iron manifolds.

44

Mild Modifications / Re: gear reduction starter

« on: October 19, 2019, 01:26:22 PM »

Thanks Bert, I appreciate the reply and the great information. I will check out DB electric. I have read on another Camaro forum that the starter from 1997 or 1998 Chevy 2500 truck with 454 will work on Mark IV 396 and is a PMGR. After your post, I think I may give that a try (and get or modify the correct fitting bolts).
Does anyone else have any experience on these PMGR starters for BB motors?
Thanks,
Allen

45

Mild Modifications / gear reduction starter

« on: October 16, 2019, 09:33:15 PM »

I have the hot start problem on my 68 SS 396 with TH400 trans. Its a stock engine with stock compression, but if I have driven it more than 10 miles or so and the engine is warm the starter will not even turn over until it cools off. This is the second stock starter I have had in the car in three years and I am sick of this problem. I am going to put a gear reduction starter in it. My question is which starter is best for the mark IV BB that will bolt right up? I know there are some new gear reduction starters for newer model GM BB but they may not line up correctly. Does anyone have any experience with a Summit or Jegs high torque starter? Any and all suggestions and recommendations are welcome.   
Thanks
Allen