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Messages - dale_z28

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General Discussion / Re: Thanks guys!
« on: July 21, 2016, 01:17:29 PM »
Bill, is low vacuum messing with your brakes like it does mine? With my idle speed around 1100-1200 RPM, I seem to get one good power-assisted brake before I either have to stand on the brake pedal or blip the gas to get some vac back (this is putting around a parking lot at slow-speed obviously).

I'm going to my first show Saturday with temps expected around 97, and humidity right up there with it. I bought a canopy to sit under for shade, and we're bringing plenty of ice... I really hope this first show isn't miserable for the wife...I hate to set the tone for future ones!

Original Cars and Details / Re: JohnZ's '69 Z/28
« on: July 20, 2016, 05:43:05 PM »
Wow! Great find, beautiful car! Ours were 530 apart on the line, and our brithdays are a day apart, too. Would love a couple pics of the lap belts (as bolted to the floor next to the console). Mine now have a twist (when worn) that I don't believe was there pre-restoration.

General Discussion / Re: Craigslist "retired" Z28 drag car on C/L
« on: July 20, 2016, 03:09:46 PM »
Anybody know the asking price?
It's not listed in the ad, which I just checked. He lists a phone number (513) 706-8402 could call

Originality / Re: 69 Z28 starter wiring harness shield tube????
« on: July 20, 2016, 02:57:53 PM »
Truth in Advertising ..  is a foreign concept for a lot of ebay sellers...  I thought that one was just WRONG.... :)
Ebay sellers and our elected officials are related, no doubt

Restoration / Re: Cowl hood solenoid wire routing
« on: July 20, 2016, 02:55:54 PM »
As a matter of fact, I was looking at my hood last night. I have the wire running to the solenoid and down to it's connection point on the firewall. It appears my wire isn't long enough to place the clip into the hole that you guys so kindly pointed out and still reach the solenoid. The clip can slide along the wire, but it's just not long enough

General Discussion / Re: My Old 69 Z
« on: July 12, 2016, 04:33:40 PM »
Hey John, welcome aboard! We're nearly neighbors, I was in Marion growing up and purchased mine in '77 - saw it on my way to work one day. Hope you can track down your old car, but let us know what you wind up with. Thanks for the pics and stories!

Originality / Re: 69 Z28 starter wiring harness shield tube????
« on: July 12, 2016, 04:24:01 PM »
Seen 'em before but not on my car

Maintenance / Re: Anyone gutted a restoration battery?
« on: July 12, 2016, 04:19:47 PM »
I heard if those batteries aren't kept charged they crystallize inside and it ruins them. I put it on the trickle size charger every so often and used it 6 months ago on the winch. Both batteries spun the engine over easily but the resto  battery only does it 3 times. It pulled that twice and I can charge it up and then it acted ok showing 12 volts under load. Put it in for show and it started three times to get in trailer then drops to about 6 volts under load.
Does a "regular" battery act the same or always start it fine? I put a Deka battery in mine, whips it over like there's no tomorrow, also a new engine (I just changed oil at 200 miles)

General Discussion / Craigslist "retired" Z28 drag car on C/L
« on: July 11, 2016, 08:15:18 PM »

Not sure if this is the proper place for this car, but wanted it to be seen by the members

General Discussion / Re: Thanks guys!
« on: July 11, 2016, 08:13:12 PM »
Looks fantastic, Bill, and the color can't be beat! (Ok, I'm predujidiced, but us burgundy guys gotta stick together!)

Maintenance / Re: Anyone gutted a restoration battery?
« on: July 11, 2016, 08:09:30 PM »
There ARE good women out there, Bill, and the heels... that's even better! My wife has a whole wall of plastic containers for her shoes, over a hundred of 'em. So when she starts getting on me about cars or guns or car parts, I just start walking to the "office" where they are...

Restoration / Re: Latch causing back of hood to move to side?
« on: July 08, 2016, 07:21:45 PM »
I'd say too much play in the hinge pivot pins. They get sloppy - actually can move around a lot, especially if they are originals and have cycled for 40 + years with minimal lubrication.

Unfortunately, the days of cheap GM hinges are over. I'm not sure of the repro quality - you could always have the originals rebuilt, or buy GM (and get ready with your wallet).

Make sure your hood side bumpers are in good shape as well - they should wedge the hood slightly when closed, keeping it centered.

A tip I learned a long time ago - leave your hood up when garaged, Keeps the springs compressed -


X2, Especially on the side bumpers. Also good tip on keeping the springs in shape by leaving the hood up.
Thank you Steve!

Garage Talk / Re: Oil level on dipstick
« on: July 08, 2016, 07:11:34 PM »
Thanks, guys. Your opinions reinforce mine. The guy turns out to be a contractor, at least as far as engine work goes. He subbed out my engine work to another reputable guy that I trust, but he's the one that took my money and will take the heat if there is a failure.

I'd never heard of the "mark your dipstick" routine, and wasn't planning to follow it unless someone else could substantiate it. All of you made good points, and I appreciate the feedback.

Garage Talk / Re: Oil level on dipstick
« on: July 06, 2016, 04:34:37 PM »
His remark was to ensure I didn't overfill the oil, but regardless of filter capacity, unless somehow the pump can run the filter out of oil and then "overfill" the pan, I don't see why I would want any less than to the "full" mark on the stick. Thanks for the input.
I agree, Ted, I run the larger filters, too.

Garage Talk / Oil level on dipstick
« on: July 01, 2016, 06:56:33 PM »
Ok, I want your opinions. As I was taking delivery of my newly-restored car, the guy that did the mechanical side of the job gave me a list of details including when it would be time to change 200 miles. He said depending on the type of oil filter I choose (typical car filter or the higher-capacity truck filter), I should mark the dipstick where the oil level falls after I've added 5 quarts and warmed the engine enough to circulate it. His thinking is that with the additional oil in the filter, my "full" mark would be below the factory full line on the stick, which I agree with. But where I tend to disagree, is that adding oil to bring it to read "full" is, in his eyes, too full - as in the crankshaft slinging oil - full. I can't picture this. First, there is a windage tray separating the crank from the oil; but more importantly (in my mind, anyway) is that the "extra" oil is in the filter, not the crankcase. An analogy that plays in my head says, if the filter held 3 quarts (an exaggeration), then there would only be 2 in the pan to be picked up by the pump, etc.
We may be talking an amount so small that it doesn't even show on the dipstick; it's more me trying to wrap my head around what point he's making with recording the "true fill level" on there.  Any thoughts?

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