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Messages - Bryan302

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151
Thanks Jano,

Well, I finally caught on.  The first set of letters were throwing me off at first.  Thanks for your time and effort.  I'm going to make myself a pocket chart for swap meets.
Thanks again,
Bryan

152
Hi Steve,

Here is the code off my WTGT tire.  It is JU05861.  JU for 69; 05 May?.  I'm sorta puzzled because of all numbers past JU.  I looked pretty close and they all appeared to be numbers.  Would is help or make it right if the 8 was a B.

Thanks,
Bryan

153
Thanks Steve, Those charts help out a lot.  Would you please make the photo of the tire a little larger.  It would help me learn if I could compare the tire to the chart, and other tires.  Looks as if there will be a definite need for a pocket chart for the swap meets.  Thank you for your time and effort!

Bryan

154
I would like to put an original WTGT back on my original YH spare wheel for show purposes only!  Please describe how to locate and decode the original date of a Wide Tread GT.  Please post a close up photo, if possible.  Is the date something the judges would count off for, if it were the wrong date for the car?  Is a repop for a spare accepted just as much as an original?

Thanks,
Bryan

155
Thanks clm69z28!  I went to camaros.net and found several interesting discussions, good and bad, which is what I was looking for.  I think I will order samples from Legendary Interiors, they had several good comments on the forum, saying their weave was closer to original and not stamped. We'll See!  Thanks for the help.

Bryan 

156
Thanks Frosty69,  May I ask if the grain, or the tits in the grain were larger or smaller in the original material, than in the P. U. I. material?  What was the main difference in appearance of the insert?

Thanks,
Bryan

157
Looking for suggestions and recommendations from past experience, on which vendor has the most correct and accurate deluxe comfort weave seat covers.  I ordered a sample from Al Knoch.  Although the sample looked good, I had nothing to compare to.  My butt had worn the seat slick enough, well, just say the grain was not comparable.  I wanted Al Knoch first choice, P. U. I., O. E. R. also considered.  Please give suggestions on your "been there, done that" knowledge.  The correct grain of the insert, and overall detail is most important.  I would like input on deluxe door panels also, who's got the best?  I just want this car as accurate and nice as possible. 

Thanks for your input,
Bryan

158
Decoding/Numbers / Re: need the experts help with stamp pad
« on: April 18, 2014, 08:08:25 AM »
I would like to share my observation of this block.  The reason they used a 618 block with a March casting will never be known, and very unusual.  I have an 05A car with vin 19n6401xx and a stamp of V0430DZ and a 010 block.  Two other examples of 05A are 19n6404xx with V0425DZ, 010 block; and 05A with vin 19n6403xx with stamp V0430DZ and a 010 block.  It looks like the block in question is completely out of wack with standard procedure.  It looks like the stamp date should, at least be in the first week of May with a vin in the 643 range.  There are several known examples with vin's in the 639 range, with a 010 block.  This block may be good, but the GM worker was drunk!

Thanks,
Bryan

159
Originality / Re: Questions about "O" Rockers 3974290 for 69 Z/28
« on: April 15, 2014, 07:25:09 PM »
Hi Gary,

After seeing that picture of the part, I don't think it is a relative part of the 140 grouping.  There is not even a place I can think of, it could go, especially related to the timing gear.

Memphis was very good.  The Z parts were thin.  I saw five DZ carbs, six 472 intakes, a 68 BV rearend, three or four 403 bell housings, one each 668 and 456 pulley, one endura bumper, a nice set of guages, a pair of non drip valve covers, and a early set of 69 Z exhaust, and that was it.  For someone, that would have been something to dance about, I didn't find squat.  I did pick up a good 367 starter, but not my date.

Thanks for finding that part.  Maybe someone will know about it.

Thanks,
Bryan

160
Originality / Re: Questions about "O" Rockers 3974290 for 69 Z/28
« on: April 15, 2014, 07:26:11 AM »
Hi Bill,

I have the steel retainers, pn#14003974 for the 3927142 spring.  By the way, I noticed a notation under the listing of the 3927140 cam in Hooper's book, in the parts listing in the back.  It stated to use thrust bearing 3887871.  Do you know if this bearing is critical to the use of a 140 cam?  Exactly where is the bearing used, is it a type of cam bearing or like a cam button for the timing gear?  As you can tell, I never heard of it.  Thankful for any help!

Thanks,
Bryan

161
Originality / Questions about "O" Rockers 3974290 for 69 Z/28
« on: April 14, 2014, 06:06:43 AM »
I have decided to go with a "140" cam instead of the "346" cam.  I have everything NOS, including the 3927142 valve springs, retainers, valves, etc.  My question is..  Are the 3974290 "O" rockers arms good enough to be compatible with and intended to be used with the "140" cam?

If a person were to build a set of 3974290 rocker arms from the current sources of NOS parts, ebay, camaro shops, etc.  Would he still get the same "O" rocker out of the current 3974290 box?  Are they still made the same, heat treat, hardness, etc.  Do the new ones still have the "O" on them?

Does anyone know if the new replacement part number of 10089648 gets you an "O" rocker?  My dealer says that the 10089648 is a direct replacement for the 3974290, but I kinda doubt it!

What aftermarket brand such as Crane or Manley, with the part number, would replace the "O" rocker?

Please advise and suggest.

Thanks,
Bryan

162
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Sheetmetal Date Code
« on: October 01, 2013, 01:30:05 AM »
Mine are H 17 - 1 on the LH door.  Every place I've found has been H 17 - 1 on a 05A build date.

Bryan

163
Decoding/Numbers / Re: 1969 Z/28 firewall crayon marks, question?
« on: September 27, 2013, 03:25:08 AM »
Thanks Billohio for the help on the soda blasting.  I Just found GM written on the inside of my fender extention, although it wasn't that fancy.  I found it looking for a sequence number.  Any idea why GM is written in different places?

Bryan

164
Decoding/Numbers / Re: 1969 Z/28 firewall crayon marks, question?
« on: September 23, 2013, 06:05:07 AM »
Thanks William and Bill.  Great Information!  If I were to use my portable blasting pot for the soda blasting, are there any special nozzles or tips designed for soda or fine material?  Does the air pressure used make a difference?  Are the grease penscil marks etched enough that you don't have to worry about removing them, even with using soda, or is this a babied process?

As Austin stated, there has been a lot of recreations to the firewalls on restored cars.  And now, especially after seeing the options found by these markings, color codes, etc.  It seems to me the best choice is to document the markings with digital photos for the restored album of what you had and where, and be done with it.  Paint the firewall back like it was, install your PBT back in the same spot, and don't add something the car didn't roll off the line with!  But, I see the beauty of this as documentation that you didn't have if you didn't find you build sheet under the back seat, which I didn't!

I think it would be cool to start a registry of these findings to see just how in depth it was.  (official CRG project addition request) How many options have been found on one firewall?  Has anyone found NC8 or JL8, etc.  It appears there has been interior and exterior options found, what determined why it needed to be there and other options were not?  What if the body was to be a heavily optioned car, how would that work out?

Why did the assembly line need to do this?  Was the build sheet not with the body yet?

Thanks,
Bryan

165
Decoding/Numbers / 1969 Z/28 firewall crayon marks, question?
« on: September 22, 2013, 05:22:13 AM »
I was reading some old post on firewall crayon marks from William and Keech.  When stripping a firewall and expecting to find grease penscil marks on the bare metal, what is the best effective method to strip the paint?  Some say soda, some say rubbing with laquer thinner or reducer.  What works the best without harming the expected find?

Thanks,
Bryan

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