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97529 Posts in 11718 Topics by 4581 Members
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61  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: 69 CONVERT. TRIM TAG REAL OR ? on: September 12, 2013, 01:00:37 AM
Maybe if they moved the cardboard you could see the gas tank through the rust holes ?
62  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: original paint 69 Z on ebay... "survivor" on: September 05, 2013, 01:00:28 AM
i zoomed in on the rally stripe pics. To me they look added or like a later repaint and not the original lacquer. The ride height looks good to me and I think that the protect-o-plate picture is intentionally blurry for privacy of original owner info.  Anyone? Anyone?
63  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: *original* 69 Trunk Mat ? on: August 31, 2013, 09:24:21 PM
When you find an acceptable replacement you can put that old one in a box and send it to me Smiley I tossed mine in 82 (in about that shape) & never replaced it
64  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Cable Motor Support on: August 07, 2013, 09:22:59 PM
Is it even possible to drive a 302Z and keep it under 4K rpm Huh Difficult at best!
65  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Cable Motor Support on: July 28, 2013, 09:15:28 AM
does any one have pics of the cable kit installed on a 69?
66  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / 1969 Z/28 Craigslist on: May 26, 2013, 10:50:10 AM
Posting ID: 3826304404 Craigslist
Any Comments?
Protect-o-plate?
67  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: 4053 holley fast idle cam on: May 18, 2013, 05:57:29 PM
419499 is correct if it's green it's incorrect should be white(ish) Call Craig's Carb Restoration 386/518-6040 carbguy@cox.net. he has the #'d part and also the correct choke pull off w/the angled vacuum port.
68  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Front license plate bracket question. on: April 23, 2013, 08:12:42 PM
Hey Alabama,
You should take one of the screws from the front bracket your not using and use it in the empty hole of the rear license plate bracket !!! Smiley
69  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Front license plate bracket question. on: April 22, 2013, 11:28:58 PM
Original screws
70  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Front license plate bracket question. on: April 20, 2013, 12:01:13 PM
I have a spare original 69 license plate bracket.(not perfect but original) I can check for stamping but won't be home till Sun evening. I will also check the original on my car. 

71  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: License Plate Mounting on: March 27, 2013, 04:24:19 PM
1969 Z
72  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Originality questions for Tilt Column (restored) vs Original non-tilt column on: March 24, 2013, 11:10:56 AM
Mine is a 4th week Jan 69 Van Nuys car w/tilt (column assumed original I,ve had it since 82)
High key boss, no green or black "spacer" I only see the splined shaft where this piece would be ?
73  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: A question for the paint system experts on: March 13, 2013, 12:19:00 AM
10-4
74  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: A question for the paint system experts on: March 12, 2013, 08:16:56 PM
I don't think that woodsman1172 is asking how to get a paint job that you can "reach down into it and get a hand full". The factory paint didn't look like that because they didn't use 15-20 coats. But can a BC/CC urethane job be applied to look factory paint ? I'm not sure that it can.
75  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: A question for the paint system experts on: March 12, 2013, 04:18:56 PM
I agree w/ 69Z28-RS and I think we have talked about this before. The original paint was lacquer and looks line a pretty piece of metal while the BC/CC paint jobs look like an overly shiny and deep piece of plastic. TCP Global has an affordable lacquer I believe it's called restoration shop a round $50/qt and $175/gal (they also have name brand it was around $900/gal) I think I'll try the inexpensive stuff. I haven't painted any thing lacquer for 25+ years. Painting metallic colors is tricky especially light colors because they don't have as much pigment and it's easy to want to put on too much to quick. With a light color make sure to use a light color primer/sealer (grey for silver) probably 3-4 wet coats tack time between. I always alternate between up and down strokes and side to side coats to help eliminate the dreaded zebra striping.  If you put a coat on too soon the solvents will soften the last coat and cause a sag (sometimes it's just a sap in the metallic) but still mot good. When the last coat is still quite wet turn your air pressure up and stand back like an arms length and "mist" the car. Use back and forth circular motions not directly at the surface let the paint fall onto the surface kinda like snow. this sets the metal flake in different directions instead of all laying flat. Be careful though too much or if your last coat is not wet enough you will end up w/ dry spots (using a slower reducer helps) PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. take off your deck lid and hood and perfect you technique on the under side of these first. Also TCP sells a high perf clear i or 2 wet coats of this will give you something to buff so you ate not buffing into your metallic. Remember lacquers don't have a lot of UV tolerance and  subject to crazing with expansion and contraction. Keep it in the garage. Just my opinion and old school technique I'm sure some will disagree with my method but has worked for me. Good Luck
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