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112401 Posts in 12912 Topics by 4944 Members
Latest Member: 68RS/SS
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526  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: Removing Harmonic Balancer on: May 27, 2013, 10:19:44 PM
I think I'll buy them both because they are inexpensive.

Glad you got it loose. Last one I removed (from a 350), took a lot of pressure to get it off, plus some dork had stripped one of the pulley mounting holes, and instead of Heli-Coiling it, actually bent a bolt to run into the hole to make up for the lost threads - what a Mongolian cluster some people will do to unsuspecting others.

Do yourself a favor, and buy the best installer (and remover) you can afford if you're going to buy them - I've been using mine for better than 30 years - Made-in-China stuff won't last IMO.

Regards,
Steve
527  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Front license plate bracket question. on: May 25, 2013, 10:11:50 PM
The ACC on the front tag bracket was on later production.

I agree - how late is late ? My 01C X77's original bracket is AAc - so is the one I bought in the 80's -

Regards,
Steve
528  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 68 rear spoiler stud lenth needed on: May 25, 2013, 02:31:34 PM
Mine is still mounted - hard to tell from that, but I'll ask a friend who should have a NOS piece to compare it to.

By the way, is that British Racing Green on the bottom of the spoiler ? Looks familiar -

Regards,
Steve
529  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: 68 factory air cars on: May 23, 2013, 11:38:37 PM
Somehow, I knew you couldn't resist answering that one -

Regards,
Steve
530  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: Removing Harmonic Balancer on: May 23, 2013, 11:33:32 PM
Assuming you're using a three bolt puller, and you have equal (level) tension on all three bolts, take it loose and reposition it. It could be pulling slightly off-center, causing it to bind on the key or the snout. I've seen some that take a pretty good pull to get 'em to pop free, especially if they've been together for 30-40 years. Probably has a good bit of corrosion build up as well. If you have an installer, you can always push it back in a little, squirt some PB Blaster around the snout, and try it again. Make sure your puller is straight on the crank snout - shim it with a thick washer if you need to (works for me).

Good luck - let us know how it goes.

Regards,
Steve
531  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Why Are Some Blocks Stamped and Some Not on: May 15, 2013, 08:10:57 PM
Take a look at these 2 - current advertisements. Some variations, all from the same vendor. No VIN stamp views offered on any of the 4 blocks that were on line. Top shot looks too fresh, bottom appears better, but still not 100% sure of it -

Judge for yourselves -

Regards,
Steve
532  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 68 camaro grill NOS on: May 13, 2013, 10:00:28 PM
Could be - unfortunately, I don't have an RS grille to compare it to. One observation: From dealing with GM parts over the years, I have rarely seen a GM part (especially of any size) that didn't have a part number either stamped or molded into it, even some of the smallest and most obtuse parts (like my original dimmer switch carpet grommet I ran across the other night - has part # and manufacturer, and "Made in USA" molded into the reverse side).

Regards,
Steve
533  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 68 camaro grill NOS on: May 13, 2013, 09:30:46 PM
Ahhh - just when you think you've seen 'em all, consider this NOS grille -

Regards,
Steve

P.S. - backside inner lip recess -
534  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 68 repro doors - Problems with? Who makes? on: May 07, 2013, 11:35:36 PM
I have a friend that just went through 3 complete sets of repops to get doors that didn't have waves, dips and washboard panels - he finally gave in to the last set and did a lot of filler work and buildup on the edges to get the things smooth. To top it off, his car is a '67 - he is going through the vent window fitment as well, which is a pain.
There apparently are at least 2 manufacturers of complete doors, maybe more. General construction is not bad, shipping/handling and packaging seems to be a bigger issue. Metal gauge thickness and weight is different from originals as far as I can tell, but I'm not a professional bodyman - just my opinion.

Regards,
Steve
535  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: 69' Camaro Z28 purchase help PLEASE on: May 07, 2013, 11:19:31 PM
Since it's in the database, is there any documentation available for the car ? P-O-P, dealer invoice, title histories ? If not, depending on the state, the DOT might be able to give you paperwork on the car for a fee - I got full docs on two of mine verifying the Z options and all options ordered with the car, plus the MSO's from Chevrolet to the assigned dealers for a few bucks (lucky because both cars were sold new here in my state, the DOT photocopied and microfiched all of the paperwork). Worth a shot, although nowadays they will blackout the names of the prior owners due to the Federal Privacy Act, which would be no bad deal if you can document the rest of the car - that ends a lot of speculation about what the car started life as, then the only thing you have to worry with are restamped "original" drivetrain components.

All in all, a pretty car - a few details need correcting, but it looks like a very good and nearly finished Z. I wouldn't kick it out of the garage for leaking fluids. Good luck on your deal.

Just my opinion -
Steve
536  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Non dripper valve cover questions. on: May 05, 2013, 07:07:37 PM
Did all the 418 covers have a dull finish?

I forgot to chime in on the first part of the question - my originals and all of the unrestored cars I have ever seen had "mill" finish cosmetics - they are smooth, but not polished. IMO bead blasting ruins the finish - about the only way I have ever seen as an effective way to clean them is dip them in carb cleaner, but you have to be carefull with that as well (some cleaners are so aggressive they can open up or pit the surface). True, they get worse with age and oxidation, but polishing them is not correct, nor is bead blasting. I will have Jerry restore mine when I get to the point where I need them done.
I sold a set of mid-80's NOS dripper covers a while back - they were polished covers, and you could really see the heat cracks were showing up in the casting dies. Shortly after I bought them, GM superceded the part number again, making that the third part number away from the original 418's that I know of. BTW, as you know, both original L&R covers did have the same casting number, as any number of posts will mention. Took me years to get word on that - I thought somebody had replaced one of mine with a duplicate side for a long time.

Regards,
Steve
537  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Non dripper valve cover questions. on: May 05, 2013, 06:40:23 PM
There was some kind of tub that vibrated that had these light gray stone looking things in it at one place I worked at years ago, but I don't think they have it anymore. I remember seeing it back in the 80's. I wonder if that is what reskins these things.

Gary,

Good description of an accelerated tumbling process, which uses ceramic media and a chemical accelerant to deflash/deburr and clean the castings. Other media types are available to lessen the debrading action, or make it more aggressive, depending on the need. The "steel ball" process may actually be a Wheelabrator, which i have seen used more on steel and cast iron parts because it does "peen" the surface, smoothing it out in the process. Most of the commercial rebuilders I have seen (or been in their shops), use the ceramic accelerated process - I suppose you could use either. Not sure of Jerry's process, but I have seen his end result (and signature) on several restored '69's, and he did my '68 intake with great results. Whatever he does it with, it's absolutely the best one to use IMO.

Regards,
Steve
538  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 0 rocker arms BIG or small 0 ? differences? on: May 04, 2013, 12:44:07 PM
Gary,

    They should be kept together, for the same reason as when you pull a cam/lifters/pushrods - I remember reading this in the overhaul manual (many) years ago, that stated the wear-in or hone pattern that develops between the contact surfaces are unique to those parts, and that the parts have to go through the same process if they are mismatched on reassembly, which could cause accelerated wear/premature part failure. I believe that to be on the high side of extremely remote - if you use assembly lube, and lubricate everything like it should be, they'll probably be fine. I still keep mine together, marked or cataloged.

     I don't consider myself as a professional engine builder, but I built my first one ('57 PowerPac 283, 30-30 solid GM cam, 327-300 heads, 11:1 TRW pistons, original stamped rockers, 43 years ago; multiple small blocks and big blocks (even a couple of FoMoCo's) since. I have never had a reused stock rocker fail, but I have checked them all for problems before reinstalling them. Last I heard, the original 283 was still at it. It's just a matter of personal preference - I know roller tips are better for geometry and reduced internal friction, but I still will use my "O's" until they give up the ghost, or I do.

Just my opinion -
Steve
539  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: '67 accelerator return spring: was there a bracket? on: May 04, 2013, 11:52:15 AM
Hey 1967RS/SS - do it look like this ? It's free if you'll pay the freight - if you still need one. My old eyes and worse memory didn't fail me for once (found this yesterday).

Regards,
Steve
540  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Willow Run plant about to see the wrecking ball...? on: May 02, 2013, 11:31:48 PM


[/quote]
 I started my GM career at Chevrolet-Willow Run in 1964, building the Corvair and Chevy II.
[/quote]

Gee, John, you probably built the car I got my license in - my Dad's '65 Corvair Corsa. Loved that car, leaking pushrod tubes and all - a lot of really good memories from it. Wish I had it sitting beside the 'Maros today.

Regards,
Steve
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