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111372 Posts in 12824 Topics by 4913 Members
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316  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: How long have you owned your Camaro? on: February 28, 2014, 05:44:44 PM
"Later" version of a '68. I do like the 302 emblems on Darrell's '68, though - always thought that was an understatement.
317  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: connecting rod reconditioning on: February 28, 2014, 05:19:43 PM
Yeah, I looked it up in the P&A and the 67 350 DID use dimple rods! I didn't realize that. I thought they were like 68 and 69 which DIDN'T use dimple rods. I've deleted my original post.


Yes they sure puzzled me the first time I saw a set, VERY Rare. I personally would use the later 3/8" bolt "pink" rod to gain bolt strength and better rod material, especially if it is a original stamp block.

Then again, the '67's are small journal, no "pinks" until medium journal '68-9, right ?

318  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: How long have you owned your Camaro? on: February 28, 2014, 04:58:19 PM
X77- 1973
L78- 1997
'68 Z - (1996) 2011

Sold my '70 Chevelle in 2011 to finance the '68 Z - miss the Chevelle, but pretty fond of the '68.
319  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Tanks, cores and a question on: February 28, 2014, 09:39:49 AM
I read this in the CRG report (which is an excellent source of info, as all of the reports are), and raises another question. I'm not gonna flog this to death, but it goes back to anomalies that may have existed in the production/assembly lines (and continues today):

 "Note: the late 68 L30/L48 V01/AC radiator is indicated in GM documentation to change from the 23" version to the 21" 3010178 (manual) and 3010179 (auto) radiators. These usages have not been verified. In fact, two late production 1968 manual cars with V01 have been documented with the 21" 3017132 ZB radiator. This would suggest the radiator size did change to 21" on these applications, but that GM documention is incorrect on which radiator was used."

If that was the case, this 23" 3 row radiator in my L78, marked "L" as a date code, would possibly be a '67 production to exist as an early '68 assembly, correct ? You gotta like a mystery -


320  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Survivor 69 Z back on ebay on: February 26, 2014, 10:51:28 PM
Gary should live in Tennessee, or at least root for the Vols if he continues to obsess with Hugger Orange.

I would have bought another Pace Car if the color scheme was reversed -

Sorry - couldn't resist.
321  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Tanks, cores and a question on: February 26, 2014, 10:42:11 PM

I agree with the possibility. Funny that it happens to be a 23/3 core, dated "L". The radiator has been with the car for a long time, definite L78 as we have discussed in the forum previously, yet the tank codes are wrong. Sure wish the tag had not been lifted from the car before it was secured (sat in a body shop parking lot for several years, paint behind the tag area was still clean when we picked the car up like it had just been removed that day). At least three of the four are correct and present -

322  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Tanks, cores and a question on: February 25, 2014, 11:00:30 PM
After reading a recent topic about fan clutches, I decided to research my radiators on my cars to make sure of numbers and originality.

Here's what I found, all Harrison radiators (thank goodness):

June '68 built 1968 Z Left tank IH Right tank OD. Date code "E". 21" three row core.
Dec. '68 built 1969 L78 Left tank IH Right tank OD. Date code "L". 23" three row core. *
Jan. '69 built 1969 Z Left tank IH Right tank CB. Date code "A". 21" three row core.
March '69 built 1969 Z11 Left tank IH Right tank OF. Date code "A". 21" three row core. A/C car.

The L78 is the question. There is no visual evidence of this radiator ever being re-cored, definitely a 23" three row, dated correctly for the car, yet the tank codes (in my estimation) should be IL and OO. Doesn't appear as if this was a small block recore, tanks and upper and lower core brackets are correct, manual trans tanks, too. Tag removed by someone right before the car was purchased.

Comments ? Opinions ? All are welcome -

323  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Were 'Pacesetter' VIN's period different? on: February 22, 2014, 01:24:44 PM
Here's engine stamp.

Notice how the core plug in the head right above the engine code has been ground to allow access/clearance for the gang stamp holder - I've seen this before. Might be a good explanation of why the stamp line is curved -

Just my opinion - 
324  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 68 350 engine - how to start on: February 18, 2014, 06:27:06 PM
I forgot to add I did drain the old oil off on my LS5 and replace the filter before priming - after 19 years untouched, the oil appeared just as fresh as when it was stored (unheated/conditioned) garage; I did drain the gas tank and replaced with non-ethanol straight gas (same as what was in it). Used the old gas in my lawn tractor later in the summer - was still good, not varnished. New plugs, which was a problem due to big block, headers and air conditioning.

Never smoked, fouled plugs or anything obnoxious - considering the lack of care over such a long time, I was fortunate to resurrect it intact.

325  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Cowl Tag Check on: February 18, 2014, 06:02:17 PM
I am not an expert on tags, never will be.  But if I was buying the car with that tag, I would pay with $3 bills.    Cool

I'd use $2.50 bills - why pay more ?
326  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Cowl Tag Check on: February 18, 2014, 06:00:16 PM
A couple of things bother me about this tag, although I looked up the VIN in the SC Registry and verified the Allen Green Chevrolet delivery in Seattle, WA. Rest of the story sounds plausible enough, could be documented for all I know.

1) This car is represented as an 02D car, and the body tag is 222032, yet my known original trim tag (01C car) starts 229(xxx). I remember seeing the statements before concerning non-sequential Fisher body tag assignment, but this is one of the first I have seen.

2) The Addressograph type set is exceeding fresh and distinct. A lot more so than my X77 tag.

3) Filler is pretty fresh on the repro-looking rivets, even to the fresh fingerprint/rub marks attempting to smooth it out. Tag has either been removed or replaced with a different tag or during refinishing. Which ?

Not a bad appearing car, although it needs correct spring rates in the front suspension.

My two cents -
327  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Rear axle code on: February 17, 2014, 08:48:41 PM
Congrats - a real find, regardless of the engine that's in it. Tag looks like an untouched original -

How's the rest of the car ? Your header pic looks like a pretty decent Z10.

Regards (and welcome to the site),
328  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Need Help and advise fixing broken Tic Toc Tach on: February 16, 2014, 02:28:35 PM
Try these people - I have not personally used them yet, but this is where my '68 Tic Toc is going - several threads on this guy in CRG -

329  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor on: February 16, 2014, 02:20:04 PM

Same auction - both are the 08C car?


330  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Nagging questions about parts and restoration direction on: February 15, 2014, 09:58:56 PM
1) I, like you, bought many NOS parts in the early '80's while they were available and inexpensive. Getting three kids through college the last several years forced my hand - I have had to part with too many rare and desirable things over time, hopefully no more. My advice to you is to keep the needed parts for your restoration, and sell accumulated or speculative parts to finance paint/body/future parts. NOS is getting so scarce and high dollar, my take on it is "if you need it, keep it". NOS fits better, looks better, and will show in the completed restoration. Use repro as a very last resort. I constantly scour swap meets, shows and on line chasing the next good used part, NOS small parts, even years that I don't have represented to use as future swap or sell items - you can make some decent money selling inventory items, while keeping your "core" items intact.

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