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97511 Posts in 11718 Topics by 4581 Members
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316  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: Lubing after sitting for a year? on: April 01, 2013, 08:55:31 PM
I agree with Mike S; you should go a little further before you spin it. I sold my '70 LS5 year before last - it had sat without being turned over for 16 years (while I was busy raising kids) with the intake removed (I was de-tuning it back to stock, replaced an aftermarket intake and L78 heads with stockers). I used a Moroso priming tool that I bought years ago, pumped oil pressure up before even attempting to turn the engine over. I squirted Marvel Mystery Oil cut 50-50 with Castrol GTX into each cylinder, left the plugs out, and then hand-turned the crank 90 degrees and primed again until oil showed up through the pushrods. Buttoned up the block, timed it, and started the engine. The only problems I had were several flat lifters, which finally pumped back up, but no cylinder problems, ring problems, or bearing difficulties. Ran like you expect Chevrolet's finest to do - barked the tires trying to pull it out of the garage.
This engine/car was stored in an unheated garage for a total of 19 years, 16 of those partially torn down, respected but not taken care of as much as it deserved, but it still fired up and ran good enough to trailer to a new owner (so the '68 Z could take it's place). I don't think you'll have much trouble with it - looks great to me.

Regards,
Steve
317  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: What are these marks on the harmonic balancer? on: March 28, 2013, 04:56:32 PM
You'll still need to verify whether the mark is on the #1 or #6 rotation - both valves on the #1 cylinder will be closed if you are at TDC for the #1 piston (you probably knew that, just a reminder). I've started engines before without realizing it; you usually find out quickly enough -

Regards,
Steve 
318  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Subframe Crisis on: March 21, 2013, 09:25:05 PM
Not to add to your task, but you need to consider the inside of the sub as well. If you don't have a stripper (read as alkaline immersion company) near you, I suggest using a converter, or a system like Eastwood's internal spray coating, to treat the inside of the frame while you're treating the outside to a restoration. Imagine how much is inside, out of sight, that could rear up and show from the inside/out one day -

Just my opinion -

Regards,
Steve 
319  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Keys from keycode? on: March 21, 2013, 09:03:31 PM
My '68 Z had the ignition lock changed at some point in it's career - when I got it home, I pulled the door locks out (they are coded on the lock with the key numbers) and the trunk lock (same deal) , and had my local locksmith cut new keys from the codes - worked perfectly. I found an NOS ignition lock cylinder, had him recode the lock, and did the same to the trunk/glove keys to match the codes up. Probably cost all of $30.00 to get everything right. The only problem he had was with the '68 coded key blanks - they are different from '69's, longer slot, so he had to extend the slot to get the key to fit correctly. Solved that problem by buying a couple of sets of NOS blanks on eBay - about $12.00/set. Works wonders -

Regards,
Steve
320  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Property Tax Rate Schedule on: March 17, 2013, 12:37:28 AM
Tennessee does not judge a property tax on vehicles (some counties might add a wheel tax; the counties I've lived in don't add it to antiques) - sales tax accrues only on the sale/transfer of the vehicle; vehicles older than 25 years qualify for antique tags, a one-time-only registration that's good for as long as you own the vehicle. Vehicles prior to '75 do not have to be emissions inspected. Insurance required, applies to all vehicles.

Tennessee guys - left anything out ?

Regards,
Steve
321  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: 67-Distributor Fake or Real.... learn & stop this crap on: March 14, 2013, 11:57:08 PM
I don't think that is what he means. If WILMA is selling a restamp he will state that, but if it is real he will state that as well.

Gary - I tend to agree with you. I have noticed wilma99's auctions for years - when he restamps one, he usually states it to be a restamp. There are two of these 170's on eBay right now, and they appear the same in font and markings. You can never be sure (I'm no expert, either; I can usually spot the obvious restamps), but Jerry can probably give the skinny on this if he sees it -

Just my opinion -
Steve
322  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 3 Speed Auto Steering Column to 4 Speed on the floor Question on: March 14, 2013, 11:34:45 PM
In my opinion, I would pull the original column out and keep it intact, put a donor column in, or upgrade (which is really the best case) to a tilt column. You can pick up a non-tilt one for a floor shift fairly inexpensively, just takes patience and looking. I know a tilt column is pricey, but in my case, this old body just doesn't seem to slide so easily behind the wheel of the old Huggers any more.

Depends also on how original you want the look to be - your linkage is going to change, depending on if you use a factory style Hurst reverse lock out. Bellcrank may work, but you'll have to look up the parts to decide the differences. Shouldn't be terribly difficult -

Regards,
Steve

P.S. Check out eBay auction #321088117709 - Canadian, but looks pretty decent, good price so far, no bids. Good luck -
( I should qualify the Canadian statement before I catch heck - I only meant North of the Border for shipping considerations !)
323  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 302 valve setting with roller rockers on: March 09, 2013, 08:27:28 PM
Hard thing to reason - either you can't learn everything, or can't remember everything. Must be the latter, 'cause I forgot which is more important.

I went back and looked up the ratio and the rocker part numbers - I agree completely. My parts book says the 302 "0" rockers and the 350 rockers were one in the same, I always thought they were different. I had been thinking about using rollers anyway instead of the stamped 1.6 rockers I bought for the '68; I think this has made my mind up.

Regards,
Steve
324  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 302 valve setting with roller rockers on: March 08, 2013, 10:36:36 PM
Randy/John,

I thought the original rocker arm ratio for the '69 302 was 1.6:1 ? Low Perf at 1.5:1 ? Am I having another senior moment ? I realize that has nothing to do with the lash specs, but I used to think the ratio was changed somewhere along the early years to the 1.6 -
please correct me if I'm wrong.

Regards,
Steve
325  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Another Tonawanda Z on: March 08, 2013, 10:12:47 AM
Noticed this one was removed from auction - wonder if it sold, or just removed for further tweaking ? Pretty car, but details like the shroud warning tag are an instant flag that someone didn't complete their homework assignment -

Regards,
Steve
326  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Camaro on Ebay on: March 06, 2013, 08:56:42 AM
Car has been listed 3 times now.
Surely a fair bit of shill bidding going on;
First auction ended December 14, 2012 - 48 bids, "sold" for $31,001
Relisted, Second auction ended January 9, 2013 - 50 bids, "sold" for $32,500
Relisted, currently had 45 bids, reached $24,100
Each time, listing states "no reserve", so why doesn't it sell? Hmm....


I believe you hit the nail squarely on the head. To me, a sure sign of a ghost bidder is (for example) whoever the bidder on this auction is marked 3***i with 10 auctions to his/her credit, pushing the bid up $500.00 periodically. I watched an auction not long ago that happened just that way - guy was using a proxy seller, anybody can do the same thing. After a while, it may backfire on the seller occasionally, or it hangs until some unsuspecting bidder happens on it and falls for it. I imagine scenario that happens a lot. I hope they lose their collective shirts.

IMO,
Steve
327  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: 69 Z/28 Question on: March 03, 2013, 11:48:41 PM
Early/mid February. Engine build/car build was running pretty close in the early '69 production days, seems to average 1-2 weeks prior to car build in January - February. Post the VIN and it will help bracket the date -

Regards,
Steve
328  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Another Tonawanda Z on: March 03, 2013, 11:43:15 PM
My concern is the damage these misrepresentations due to our hobby - I guess there is nothing that can keep people from believing what they see as being correct, at least in their minds. Really a shame, but like anything else, it's "buyer beware" - whoever is top bidder on this car is going to have to work hard to get this thing turned into an original car. Probably gets a shock if and when he tries to sell it -

Steve
329  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Another Tonawanda Z on: March 02, 2013, 11:05:45 PM
A challenge - by my count 28 separate incorrect details with this car, minor to major. groups to individual details. The laundry list is large - how many can exist on the same vehicle ? I love the statement 'got the car from a old buddy who told him it was a real Z'. At least the seller asks you to make your own determination or interpretation of originality - and it's already bid to $19K. I'm in the wrong business - I should be selling F1's for a living - but I couldn't get past the obvious.

As always, my own opinions -

Regards,
Steve
330  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Muncie question M20 and M21 on: March 01, 2013, 05:45:46 PM
Best reason to use the close ratio is to keep the rpm's up in the power band in between shifts, especially using a 4:10 and up rear, but they work well with the 3.73's ( that's what my '68 has as a combination, my '69 is a 4.10, l78 is a 4.10). To answer your other question, you can sneak up on an input and a cluster gear sometimes fairly priced, or you can buy a new set (Italian built, I believe) for a nice higher price. Add the cost of a rebuild kit ($150.00 or so), and you have a good freshened M21. 
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