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103544 Posts in 12176 Topics by 4697 Members
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226  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Tanks, cores and a question on: February 25, 2014, 11:00:30 PM
After reading a recent topic about fan clutches, I decided to research my radiators on my cars to make sure of numbers and originality.

Here's what I found, all Harrison radiators (thank goodness):

June '68 built 1968 Z Left tank IH Right tank OD. Date code "E". 21" three row core.
Dec. '68 built 1969 L78 Left tank IH Right tank OD. Date code "L". 23" three row core. *
Jan. '69 built 1969 Z Left tank IH Right tank CB. Date code "A". 21" three row core.
March '69 built 1969 Z11 Left tank IH Right tank OF. Date code "A". 21" three row core. A/C car.

The L78 is the question. There is no visual evidence of this radiator ever being re-cored, definitely a 23" three row, dated correctly for the car, yet the tank codes (in my estimation) should be IL and OO. Doesn't appear as if this was a small block recore, tanks and upper and lower core brackets are correct, manual trans tanks, too. Tag removed by someone right before the car was purchased.

Comments ? Opinions ? All are welcome -

227  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Were 'Pacesetter' VIN's period different? on: February 22, 2014, 01:24:44 PM
Here's engine stamp.

Notice how the core plug in the head right above the engine code has been ground to allow access/clearance for the gang stamp holder - I've seen this before. Might be a good explanation of why the stamp line is curved -

Just my opinion - 
228  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 68 350 engine - how to start on: February 18, 2014, 06:27:06 PM
I forgot to add I did drain the old oil off on my LS5 and replace the filter before priming - after 19 years untouched, the oil appeared just as fresh as when it was stored (unheated/conditioned) garage; I did drain the gas tank and replaced with non-ethanol straight gas (same as what was in it). Used the old gas in my lawn tractor later in the summer - was still good, not varnished. New plugs, which was a problem due to big block, headers and air conditioning.

Never smoked, fouled plugs or anything obnoxious - considering the lack of care over such a long time, I was fortunate to resurrect it intact.

229  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Cowl Tag Check on: February 18, 2014, 06:02:17 PM
I am not an expert on tags, never will be.  But if I was buying the car with that tag, I would pay with $3 bills.    Cool

I'd use $2.50 bills - why pay more ?
230  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Cowl Tag Check on: February 18, 2014, 06:00:16 PM
A couple of things bother me about this tag, although I looked up the VIN in the SC Registry and verified the Allen Green Chevrolet delivery in Seattle, WA. Rest of the story sounds plausible enough, could be documented for all I know.

1) This car is represented as an 02D car, and the body tag is 222032, yet my known original trim tag (01C car) starts 229(xxx). I remember seeing the statements before concerning non-sequential Fisher body tag assignment, but this is one of the first I have seen.

2) The Addressograph type set is exceeding fresh and distinct. A lot more so than my X77 tag.

3) Filler is pretty fresh on the repro-looking rivets, even to the fresh fingerprint/rub marks attempting to smooth it out. Tag has either been removed or replaced with a different tag or during refinishing. Which ?

Not a bad appearing car, although it needs correct spring rates in the front suspension.

My two cents -
231  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Rear axle code on: February 17, 2014, 08:48:41 PM
Congrats - a real find, regardless of the engine that's in it. Tag looks like an untouched original -

How's the rest of the car ? Your header pic looks like a pretty decent Z10.

Regards (and welcome to the site),
232  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Need Help and advise fixing broken Tic Toc Tach on: February 16, 2014, 02:28:35 PM
Try these people - I have not personally used them yet, but this is where my '68 Tic Toc is going - several threads on this guy in CRG -

233  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor on: February 16, 2014, 02:20:04 PM

Same auction - both are the 08C car?


234  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Nagging questions about parts and restoration direction on: February 15, 2014, 09:58:56 PM
1) I, like you, bought many NOS parts in the early '80's while they were available and inexpensive. Getting three kids through college the last several years forced my hand - I have had to part with too many rare and desirable things over time, hopefully no more. My advice to you is to keep the needed parts for your restoration, and sell accumulated or speculative parts to finance paint/body/future parts. NOS is getting so scarce and high dollar, my take on it is "if you need it, keep it". NOS fits better, looks better, and will show in the completed restoration. Use repro as a very last resort. I constantly scour swap meets, shows and on line chasing the next good used part, NOS small parts, even years that I don't have represented to use as future swap or sell items - you can make some decent money selling inventory items, while keeping your "core" items intact.

235  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 68 350 engine - how to start on: February 15, 2014, 10:23:55 AM
One way that has worked for me a few times is to remove the plugs and put something light like marvel mystery oil into the cylinders and let it sit for an hour.
While the cylinder lube is sitting remove the distributor and drive the oil pump gear to push (new oil) throughout the motor to get the bearings lubed. I used an old distributor for this. You can use a large screw drive with the handle cut off and put into a drill too. Anything to reach into and engage the oil pump drive shaft.
Move the engine by hand first (flywheel or socket on damper bolt) to see if the motor will 'break lose' and then the using the starter motor, cycle the engine several times to circulate the oil.
 Ready to start-
Find #1 TDC and reinstall the distributor and plugs. Align the rotor to the #1 terminal on the distributor cap and manually rotate the distributor until the points just open (use a meter for this part).
You should be ready to start the motor at this point if the distributor indexing is close.
Adjust the dwell and timing afterwards.

 I believe this to be the safest approach to starting a motor where the bearings may be dry and the rings stuck due to moisture instead of putting in gas and starting 'dry'.


Mike has it right. The only additional steps I would take (I did this same thing with my LS-5 454 that had not been started in 19 years) is make sure you prime the engine oiling by using a priming tool (these specific tools use a bushing that directs the oil through the cam galleries, which feed the main bearing oil galleries). Rotate the crank 90 degrees, pump the pressure up (or give it enough time to pressurize the galleries), do this in 90 degree increments until you have completed one revolution of the crank, This makes sure you won't have a dry bearing surface before you turn it over with the starter. Worked for me - the old Chevelle cranked right up, nary a problem, except for dislodging a few generations of Brown Recluse buddies.

Ditto on the Marvel Mystery Oil squirted into the cylinders. A few pumps with an oil can into each before you start to turn it over insured the rings will break free without a lot of torque.

236  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: 69 Z/28 Barn Find?? on: February 10, 2014, 12:06:19 AM
I am getting a little tired of seeing "barn finds" - I prefer the term "barn car". Here's my version of a true "barn car" - the car and the barn are legitimate ( a little dark, but you get the picture). Barn storage, even with rodents, birds, skunks, possums and cats, is still preferable to outside storage any day of the week. The causation is lack of space; or really, a lack of funding to expand the garage or build one large enough to accommodate the hobby.

Donations accepted for the "Save the Camaro" fund - LOL.


237  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Identifying Original Console Gauges on: February 08, 2014, 05:34:38 PM

I need to clean my gauges up and get it all back together for going in the car and I have a couple of questions:
1)  My clear plastic lens over the gauges are 'scratched' and dull;  Any recommendations for polishing or replacing them?

Gary -

If your lenses are originals, and you are the detailed restorer that I think you are, look at the part number embossed on your lenses - you should see a "-1" and a "-2" on the two lenses. GM actually used two different part numbers, combined to a single number years later before they went discontinued. Polish them and keep them with the package. If they are tool deeply scratched to look decent, then I guess the solution is to replace.

238  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Seam sealer on: February 08, 2014, 05:22:56 PM
I used 3M, caulking gun application. Sets up perfectly - looks like factory sealer to me. I have always looked to use 3M products when I can - pretty reliable stuff. Plus, it's usually available through many different outlets -

Just my opinion -

239  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: How big of a tire will fit on the front of a 69 on: February 06, 2014, 09:49:49 PM
My Pace Car rubbed on the actuator covers with FW series rallys and 235 tires. I am now running 205/50/15 TA's on the same FW's, and they do well. A little narrower than I wanted to run; shorter, too, but when I put NOS actuator covers on it I didn't want a repeat rub. Car sits well, almost like it's running 14 X 7 YJ's in stance.

240  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: 4053 DZ carburator on: February 06, 2014, 09:42:23 PM
Hard to say if they would flow all of 800, but the combination of large valves, small chambers, big cam and the 472 intake could handle quite a bit. One problem that I know mine had (until I swapped it out for a 850 DP) was a noticeable hesitation, almost a bog, due to the small accelerator pump shot off idle. Fix turned out to be swapping the squirters, or drilling them: ultimate would be to use a Reo 50cc pump and cam, which would give enough fuel to get through the flat spot.

I ran the 850 for years - never a problem with loading up, or bog - of course, the 12.5:1 Manley's and the Sig Erson stick I installed in '75 may have stilted the results somewhat. The 302 would rev to near 8000 in stock form; I did this numerous times, until I snapped a stock spring on cylinder 4 (changed it in the parking lot of my dorm). Still have the spring, and no, it didn't drop the valve. Dang lucky -

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