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106486 Posts in 12420 Topics by 4787 Members
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211  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Paint decode for 69 on: March 31, 2014, 10:58:52 PM
Downloading the app-thanks for the info

One last tip, and I'll quit taking up so much of your time - when you resize, pick something like 640 X 480 for the sizing - good fit with resolution to spare. Click and drag your file and resize - it will save a copy in whatever folder you want to place it, you can rename and store from there. Works for me -

Regards -
212  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Paint decode for 69 on: March 31, 2014, 10:54:03 PM
The 1969 code on the trans is the model year, not the production year - that should be a December '68 build, precedes your car assembly by a couple of weeks -

Regards -
213  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Paint decode for 69 on: March 31, 2014, 10:44:48 PM
   
Trans:  has the matching vin stamped on it but also has P9T28B....doesn't the T make it a Dec of 69!??   it has the 3925660 on it as well


Forgot to add - decodes as Muncie, 1969, December 28, M21. Good match - good ratio, too.
214  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Paint decode for 69 on: March 31, 2014, 10:36:49 PM
If you need a resizer, download the free Obvious Idea Light Image Resizer - quick and easy way to compress images from digital cameras or (particularly) cell phone cameras. I use it all the time to reduce my iPhone pics, works great, and best of all - free.

Engine sounds legit, especially if the gunk over the VIN above the oil filter housing has been on there since time began. Tranny sounds O.K., VIN's are a heck of a lot harder to duplicate on the trans surfaces due to most are stamped with a VIN, not many exist without one, so it is a good bet that it probably is original. Rear does sound like a replacement, maybe even as a dealer warranted item (hence the casting number shift). Speaking of shifters, it was a popular thing to replace the original Hurst shifters with a vertical gate, or a Pro Shifter like I did, which required expanding the shifter hole to accommodate the shifter clearances. Not surprised -
215  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: 111480 DZ Distributor Opinion on: March 31, 2014, 07:56:49 AM
Looks like advanced oxidation/wear over a pretty good period of time. Font looks to be correct, oxidation appears over most of the body. Cap mounting area appears intact (about a .020" step on most distributors, you get the suggestion of that here). I have a known original 499 distributor with similar wear and markings to this.

Since he's seen so many of them over the years, Jerry MacNeish's opinion would be a good one to look for here -

Just my opinion -
216  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Original Carb Finish on: March 30, 2014, 07:18:37 PM
Any internals ? I noticed the accelerator pump is missing in action -

Regards -
217  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Another crazy ebay 69 Z/28 on: March 30, 2014, 07:16:23 PM
Pop rivets are much more attractive than sheet metal screws (especially large ones, like I saw at a car show locally last year). It was an X77, too, altough the tag was fresh out of the box, so to speak.
Love 'em -

Regards -
218  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: HELP on: March 29, 2014, 10:43:31 PM
State DMV's and DOT's are your best bet in lieu of original paperwork for sure, but it really depends on the state. In Tennessee, you used to be able to track down all the paperwork, including original owner's names, and then the privacy laws kicked in and the offices would redact the names. Later, they stopped looking up any paperwork that had to come from the archives (read as microfiche), that required any overtime or second shift searches, claiming they do not have the money to spend on overtime. I'm right glad I got what I got when I got it, 'cause it just won't happen anymore around here.

Good luck - hope you land what you need to start with from the NCRS. I'm going after info with them, too.

Regards -
219  Orphans - documentation or VIN-stamped drivetrains - in search of the original cars / 1969 - Orphans / Re: ebay los angles 302 9L524802 on: March 27, 2014, 09:22:45 PM
Well maybe someone decided to go to a hydraulic roller. I put a 327 with a high lift hydraulic roller cam in mine and have been very happy thus far.

I put a hydrolic (sic) roller in miy Z in '75 - an Erson HiFlow IIH, car ran like the proverbial scalded dog (12.5:1's didn't hurt). I look back on it now and wonder why I did it, but it made sense at the time (I got tired of setting rockers all the time).

Regards -
220  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Hmmm, "complete bumber to bumber" restored 69 Z on: March 27, 2014, 09:17:10 PM
VIN: 124379N649786

Sold 3-27-14 for $57,400.00

Paul

Just another example that beauty trumps intelligence. Whoever bought it must have been less interested in correctness and more interested in eye candy - but it's still a good looking car, regardless.
221  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Hmmm, "complete bumber to bumber" restored 69 Z on: March 27, 2014, 09:07:31 PM
Gottcha Gary. I thought that is what you meant. Up where I live, she is considered "petite" Yea, we got a lot of Corn fed Holsteins up here,lol. Was going to tell you that was my wife!, but if she found out, getting my car done would be the least of my worries,lol.

Hilarious - I'm sorry I missed it. Inappropriate for the site maybe, but your sense of humor is spot on. Hand it to you, I would have never suspected that misspelling "bumper" could have such an impact.

Regards - and thanks for the laugh !
222  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Hmmm, "complete bumber to bumber" restored 69 Z on: March 26, 2014, 09:40:10 PM
Nice sanding job on the tag. You can cover up a lot of ills by destroying appearances, sometimes.

More concerning to me - how many Norwood Camaros after January had the VIN stamped on the deck ? New guy on the line, maybe didn't realize that it was a hassle to remove the alternator to stamp the VIN ?

Revolting gray paint on the spindles. All in all, somebody spent a lot of time on this car - it's pretty - but a lot of details need to be corrected. At the bid level, somebody's interested -

I've got to inspect my Z when I get home - I've always wondered what "bumbers" were -

Regards -
223  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 69 Key cylinder will not go to Accessory on: March 23, 2014, 10:20:11 PM
...  parts deleted.....
Gotta remember, lubricants after 40 years or so tend to set up like concrete -
Regards

Good point Steve; any ideas for freeing up a 'stuck pinion' in a '57 Chevy rear end?  Smiley   10 days ago, I decided to resurrect the restoration of my '57 Nomad which was 'suspended around 20 yrs ago), and the past few days, I've been cleaning, priming, etc.. preparing to paint all the Frame/suspension items, and I found out yesterday that the pinion will not turn.  It worked when it was stored away in my 'dry' garage...??   Does anyone have any suggestions or tips?   I can only think of two 1) a large deadblow hammer to break it loose, and then 'try' it, or 2) a total 'chunk rebuild'...

I'd try gently working it from the pinion flange back and forth until you free it - too big a wallop will not do the bearings or seals any good. I actually had the opposite of this happen many years ago - the nut on the pinion loosened up on me while driving back from school in my '57 Belair, and caused the pinion to contact the ring gear carrier pretty violently when I let off on the gas. Sounded like a pavement grinder - scared me to death. Dropped the pumpkin out and found the problem, cleaned it up, re-torqued the pinion, and drove it 'till I sold it 4 years later, when I bought my X77.

Don't do like I did - dropped the pumpkin on my hand when I was trying to break the seal - wrist still bothers me 44 years later.

By the way - did you say that the rear is out from under the car, or still hung with wheels/tires in place ? Brake drums rusted to the shoes if they are there ?
224  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 69 Key cylinder will not go to Accessory on: March 23, 2014, 10:09:57 PM
My suggestion - it's likely the lock pin that locks the steering wheel is frozen in the upper casting where it has to slide into the lock plate. I've seen this before - you can't turn the lower locking lever on the column until you get this freed up. Cause of the problem: either dry lubricant, no lubricant, and dissimilar metals/corrosion (steel pin, aluminum casting). Take the steering wheel off, the upper cover if equipped, locate the pin where it comes out of the casting to interface with the lock plate, and shoot it with WD40, PB Blaster, Kroil Oil, or another rust corrosion breaker, and work the lower lever until it's free. Betcha it solves your key problem (it did for me). Gotta remember, lubricants after 40 years or so tend to set up like concrete -

Steve,

I had the steering wheel off recently and when I turn the key to the on position that little pin drops down into the column so I can then move the steering wheel. Are you talking about this same pin? Does this pin suppose to drop further into the column beyond the locking plate?

Thanks

Regards

If the pin moves freely, try moving the lever itself and see if the pin moves with it. If not, the gear actuator is probably messed up (broken gear tooth, or dry lubricant also). If it refuses to move, I'd say a teardown is in order to isolate it.

Also, sometimes the intermediate column (what the lever is part of) could be damaged, or rusted. Disassembly might be advisable just to inspect/clean/lube and assemble. I think the Chassis Service Manual might be of benefit to you if you have one -

Regards (and let us know what gives) -
225  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 69 Key cylinder will not go to Accessory on: March 23, 2014, 10:38:18 AM
My suggestion - it's likely the lock pin that locks the steering wheel is frozen in the upper casting where it has to slide into the lock plate. I've seen this before - you can't turn the lower locking lever on the column until you get this freed up. Cause of the problem: either dry lubricant, no lubricant, and dissimilar metals/corrosion (steel pin, aluminum casting). Take the steering wheel off, the upper cover if equipped, locate the pin where it comes out of the casting to interface with the lock plate, and shoot it with WD40, PB Blaster, Kroil Oil, or another rust corrosion breaker, and work the lower lever until it's free. Betcha it solves your key problem (it did for me). Gotta remember, lubricants after 40 years or so tend to set up like concrete -

Regards
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