Last two pics.

Also, note the instructions in the sheet above. This pump appears to be NOS, not a reman, plus no signs of ever being bolted on an engine. I could not find the part number in my '74 printing parts manual. Bag containing the 3/8" bypass plug, two gaskets and a 3/4" square head pipe plug were (are) in the box -

Regards

For your consideration - I picked this pump up ($15.00) in a local swap meet a few years back, thinking it was correct for my '68 due to the date, bypass, short design, and instruction sheet, but after reading the previuos threads I have a severe case of doubt. Looks appropriate, but maybe not -

Nice pump for the price, anyway.

Regards,
Steve

I'd say the one on eBay (Alliance Plastics, Erie PA) has to be a lot later production - compare it to my original I salvaged from my carpet when I changed it in (about)'73-'74 - company was previously Niagara Plastics, Erie, PA, and had the numbers "833" and "3" molded into the reverse side; hope the pictures are clear enough. As was mentioned earlier, it's not rubber, not a hard plastic - kind of in between.

I knew there was a reason why I saved it all these years - just to see how wild prices get on these things sometimes.

This one is in good enough shape to go back in the car. Maybe I could trade it for the Pace Car jacket on eBay - lol.

Regards,
Steve

Hey Steve I wonder since my car was special order car if they got shipped out on MSO out quicker than regular dealer stock order cars. Also checked out MSO invoice my #N019561

Mine were not special order cars, so I'll have to check this against my MSO's. First thing first, the Pace Car is going to get the treatment - probably followed by the '68, then the '9 Z. Be interesting to see if the '68 is close like yours, since they are close in build week.

I got my notice today & I have my MSOs also...Joe

How's the correlation between the MSO date and the production date ? One day off ?

Regards -

Pics of the 6-8K I sold (stupidly) some time back. January '69 dated, it would have been perfect for my (non-gauge) X77, but monetary needs took precedence -

Regards

i wish i had some spare cash, would be nice to pull my numbers matching motor and put the one for sale in mine. save some miles on it and could have a lot more fun knowing i would`nt be hurting my numbers matching parts if anything were to happen

you don't need a 'DZ' on the pad to have fun with a 302....    remembers the ones (made by boring 283's in the early 60's)... ruled the street in lightweight cars.. :)   but the best way to do this is with a 327 or 350 block and 283 crankshaft...  boring a 283 by 1/8" is chancey at best.. :)

In order to use the 283 crank, which is forged steel (and a dang good crank), you have to pick a small journal block. A 350 will relegate you to using the 657 '67 block, but you can also use the earlier 327 blocks to good advantage. You'll have to use a 302 piston for pin placement with a 5.7" rod and 3.00" stroke. Otherwise, you can feel like Zora Duntov when you put one of these together. Top it off with a pink stripe 30-30 Duntov cam, a set of 2.02/1.60 small chamber heads, and instant '67 Z karma. Love it -

Didn't miss the point - just to reinforce it wasn't the first week as we know. Not sure how deep in 12A 553 is, but I really wish it was after 560 and in the 2nd week where it would have one. Agonized over this for a good while (not being able to determine if it was an X22 or X66).

Regards

12A N553XXX no "X" code.

No dealer info either, darn it -

Regards

Has anyone been able to compare the official production date to the MSO date yet?

Thanks for asking this again - surely somebody has the MSO on their car and the dealer/build info by now. Am I going to have to send another $50.00 in to answer this ?

Regards

I'd replace them. Even Timken is not proof from foreign sourcing (read as Chinese) - the local Timken plant here has been fighting the lack of quality from their Chinese source plants' production for years -

Bearings are marked for point-of-origin, races usually aren't.

Regards

“IF THERE IS A NICER COPO OUT THERE ID LIKE TO SEE IT! THIS IS A 955 OUT OF A POSSIBLE 1000 POINT ”

A nice car for sure, but the photographer should have taken more time to focus the camera, or used something a llittle more up-to-date. Detail shots of the engine bay and trim tag are pretty sick. My Polaroid could have made better shots if I could still buy film for it -

Regards

Thanks for the correction - a classic case of me commenting without realizing the subtle change in the thread direction. I looked at the color, not the configuration, and was still thinking N66 -

I'll be more careful -

Regards

A February N66 equipped car kinda stretches the aforementioned January 8th deadline (if it was January the 8th) out there, doesn't it ? Car could have been ordered before the cancellation, obviously.

Nice trunk and appointments - the VE3 hook is a lot brighter than mine. The color always reminds me of Ford Blue.

Regards -

My factory YH and YJ rallys are black on the inside and backside (unrestored, original paints), the factory YA's (original paint) and the set of AO's I restored (also original paint) for my '70 SS Chevelle were grey on the backside, black on the inside, with a little black overspray around the backside of the rim (you can see this in the pic, slightly). The grey is more reminiscent of "jack" grey or putty than "shock" grey, come to think of it.

My N66's were produced in '68 - I doubt they are service wheels. The AO's I had were original to that car, also (perfectly dated to the car to boot). If there is another circumstance for these, I'm not privy to it. My sample size is pretty small to draw a complete survey -

Regards -