Just because it is a 12B car doesn't mean it was finished that same week..   


I feel like the rear is definitely possible for that car.  Of course without papers it will be a useless discussion..

I'll second the motion. Fisher Body assigned/attached the tag, but the car could have finished in the 3rd week, easily. MSO's were usually cut the day they were finished (I don't believe later than one day afterwards); an example is my 01C X77, which was assigned it's MSO to the dealer on 1/28. My car could have had it's trim tag assigned as late as 1/23 or 1/24 and still been in the third week.

Your 12B Z could have been finished as late as 12/18 - 12/20, which could give you nearly a full week after tag assignment before assembly. An MSO or POP would tell you for sure, obviously, but there is a precedent for close deliveries on some drivetrains as many threads have noted in the forum. I vote for "it's possible".

As always, my own opinion -

Regards,
Steve

Steve,

Received today - fit is perfect, excellent quality shirts. Thanks again for the effort and your patience -

Regards,
Steve

Out of curiosity, where is your spindle wear evident ? Seal or bearing areas ? Seal surfaces can be repaired by using spindle savers, which can stretch your life out quite a bit, but if you've mangled the bearing mount areas you might as well replace them. If heat damage is evident, replace 'em. If you're unsure about them with slight wear, have them Magnafluxed to give you some piece of mind.

I posted this statement earlier tonight - don't buy imports that you can't be sure of the quality of the part. All of them are "CNC machined", material types are important (1045 is tough, 1144 is good, 1040V vanadium steel is used a lot in suspension parts nowadays), as is traceability to the manufacturer. Don't trust your life and the lives of people on the road to an unknown source, not to mention your prized possesion; don't sacrifice safety and quality in trying to save a buck. Just my opinion.

I have purchased fuel and brake lines from Right Stuff, well pleased with the quality, but I have not sourced spindles from them. As with everything today, if it doesn't say "Made in the USA", it ain't.

Regards,
Steve

Check this one out, from an NOS '69 dated pan I have salted away. I'll check out my 01C pan this weekend when I can get to it - bet it's an "A" as well ("A" seems to be popular - I've seen several of them).

Regards,
Steve

The difference between the drum spindle and disc spindle is one bolt - the top pivot/shoe stop (drum) bolt size and boss, which becomes the new caliper bracket bolt hole, plus the part number. If you can get a machine shop to mill the boss down, and retap the bolt thread, the spindle will bolt right back up and will work with factory components. I've known several people that have done it. Another option would be to use an alternative GM body spindle (there are actually a number of exchange vehicles that use the same spindles) - check a Hollander manual. Several of these might use a different steering geometry, and might require either steering arm reversals, or the use of Camaro steering arms as a worst case (still cheaper than buying new). Boneyards are cheap sources.

The only thing I wouldn't trust is an import knock-off - if you buy new, try to make sure it's USA made, rather than trust your ride and your life to an unknown -

there are shops that can supposedly 're-arch' leaf springs, but since I haven't had it performed I cannot recommend it, as I am not certain everyone who does it knows what they are doing..

There are commercial shops that do this locally (Nashville,TN); we have a shop that does this for trucks and automotive applications, Nashville Spring Service, that specializes in rebuilding springs. Never heard any complaints about them, but I have not personally had the chance to use them (yet). Key component to the re-arching process involves shot peening/shot blasting after re-arching - supposedly extends the life of the springs many fold. Considering the cost of show quality springs, I'm going to try this as a first option before shelling out bigger bucks -

Regards,
Steve

Now you know where the concept vehicle for the Pontiac Aztek ended up.

Maybe the forerunner of the AMC Gremlin -

Regards,
Steve

[all]

Steve,

The logical answer to this would point to the fact you must have a 12A '68 Pace Car - then I could believe that, too -

Obviously kidding. My disclaimer to the '10 bolt' statement would be that all SS/RS Pace Cars had 10 bolts; fortunately mine does have a 12, 3.07 open, 350/350. Friend of mine owned a '68 SS 350/295 w/ 4400 miles a few years back, PG car with a 10 bolt - he thought the rear had been changed, but I guess that might fall under the same scenario.

You are correct on the legal issue - we had a local dealer sell a car (Mopar) a couple of years back, got sued from the out-of-state buyer, and lost his shirt because of it. It makes a lot more sense to do the right thing and walk the straight path than knowingly misrepresent a vehicle.

Regards,
Steve

Steve,

Over and above the call of duty here - what kind of doofus would stick to this line of reasoning after evidence and an offer like yours ?

By the way, the thing depresses me. My bubble has burst - I have always believed that Santa Claus was real, all RS/SS Pace Cars were equipped with 10 bolts like this one, and Anna Nicole married for love.

Regards (and my own opinions),
Steve

Not bad - in fact, not bad at all. Did you bead the chromate version ? I bet if you top coated with clear it would be dynamite. Probably last forever, too. Great job -

Regards,
Steve

Accessible systems ? Buy new or used ? Just curious - I've been thinking of springing for one for a few years. My old bones would sure appreciate the purchase (last session of dropping in a Muncie nearly put me in the hospital. Or at least, that was the "sympathy generating reasoning"). I just can't crawl around on the concrete like I used to -

Regards,
Steve

[Warning]

My original Endura jack is gray. All of mine are the same, but the X77 Z is the only one that I am sure is original to the car. Original VE3 hook is with it (an awful Ford blue color). Should have painted them Federal Safety Yellow for Warning Not-to-Use purposes -

Regards,
Steve

Could be wear or broken "dogs" in the syncro sleeve area - there are three of the little alignment dogs riding in each sleeve, a break or advanced wear could cause them to misalign enough to hang it in gear. Does sound more like an internal problem rather than a shifter problem. Did the shop tell you they managed to free it up by removing the shift rods and manually shifting the gear from the selector back to neutral ? If they did, it might be a shifter problem. In any case, try rebuilding the shifter first, as it's cheaper to do, or you're doomed to pull the thing and go through it to isolate the worn/broken parts.

I had my M21 lose the ability to go into reverse one day long ago - I limped into the station I worked at, pulled the trans and found the problem when I pulled the tailshaft housing off - turned out the spring steel shim (keeper) holding the speedometer gear in place on the mainshaft had snapped, and lodged under the selector preventing the reverse gear from moving - I replaced it, stuck it back together, and 38 years later it's still in one piece. Muncie's finest, still one of the best ever four speed transmissions in my opinion.

Regards,
Steve

Can you look on top of the cowl for the VIN stamped under the cowl grille ? That might clear the air a bit, but it could be difficult to get the owner to let you remove it. It doesn't look like a State plate, which would be affixed on the car if it was stolen/recovered/resold (usually has the State Of ______ stamped or headed on it). I've seen that done before, but look for the hidden VIN numbers if you can. Does look extremely bogus -

Regards,
Steve

The wire I indicate being in- plugged from switch is bc fan would not turn on and I unplugged and connected to battery to turn on fans and cool down.

Is that switch suppose to turn fans on once certain temp is reached?

Is the wire you show as "ground" actually attached as a ground, or does it terminate at a thermostatic switch ? Got to be a signal from a thermo source there somewhere to tell the relay to complete the circuit -

Regards,
Steve