Messages

1846

Restoration / Re: Air Injection Pulley, need a 116

« on: July 15, 2012, 02:30:48 AM »

I have a couple (not needed as all of my cars are DG pulley cars) - I'll spare one if you still need it. Reply back and I'll post a pic if you prefer.
Regards,
Steve

1847

General Discussion / Re: Nashville Classic Chevy/Camaro show 12=15July

« on: July 13, 2012, 02:20:06 AM »

First I heard of it. When and where in Nashburg ?

1848

Decoding/Numbers / Re: 01C build date on a 69

« on: July 06, 2012, 04:39:35 AM »

Occasionally, parts can be a little closer than 30 days prior to the build date. December 1968 was a 5 production week month, meaning the 3rd week of January 1969 is a little later than you realize. My 01C X77 '69 Z had the MSO cut on the 28th of January (the date of release of the car from production). I have seen several quotes that suggest the actual build was on the day the MSO was completed and the car assigned/shipped to the dealership. I have parts as close as 10 days, and as far out as a couple of months. Other original Camaros I have bear up to the same relative time periods for parts as well.
Remember, these are just my observations - I don't pass myself off as an expert, just a long -term Camaro owner/enthusiast (39 years).

1849

General Discussion / Re: headlight washer t valve

« on: June 24, 2012, 05:16:11 AM »

Marty,
Sounds pretty pricey. Finding an original is getting tough at any decent price, and I have seen these things go for stupid money on many occasions. Last one I bought, 2 years ago, I found at a swap meet complete with the proper coded wiper motor, and a complete valve, for $15.00 (the truth !). Unfortunately, the nylon used for the valve bodies as built in the 60's will usually degrade to the point where it will break easily, or the finish gets pretty bad, or it discolors to the point where you really don't want to use it. If you can't find a good used one for a reasonable amount, buy the repop with the correct date codes, bracket finish, and better quality plastic molded valve - they are too darn close to original not to use, plus you can get one for abouit $179.00 complete.

1850

General Discussion / Re: headlight washer t valve

« on: June 23, 2012, 02:31:34 PM »

White connector ? Not that I'm promoting any company, but the complete valve is available, either as an assembly or the component parts. I contemplated building this thing for many years, even found the original solenoid (coil) mfg., talked to the GM restoration legal people, had GM engineering draw the valve body as a manufacturing print, talked to plastic injection mold shops, and bought several valves and motors (originals) to pattern everything, and then at least one company beat me to the punch by reproducing the whole thing. So - buy it from them, or you can get the same valve through several known parts vendors. One thing that's not reproduced, or at least one that I can find, is the black "Y" connector that ties the two outlet hoses together into one hose - I have a couple of originals that I treat like old gold - they are put away until I need them. If you don't want a repop, you're stuck with searching for an original good enough or intact enough to restore.
By the way, the coil (solenoid) portion of the valve is gold cad on the bracket, versions in silver cad are incorrect. I can send you pics of an NOS coil that I bought from GM years ago, plus part numbered originals that retain the gold cad finish. Part numbers for valve bodies and coils are available through any vintage GM parts catalog, I can supply those if you can't find them.

1851

General Discussion / Re: What's it worth ?

« on: June 22, 2012, 01:37:01 AM »

Lost a rod through the cylinder wall - head deck is intact, but lifter valley is damaged. May be repairable, but right now is a 500 lb. Protect-O-Plate. Excellent std. bore 272 JH coded properly dated block goes with the car -

1852

General Discussion / What's it worth ?

« on: June 22, 2012, 12:32:53 AM »

I have an original motored L78 '69 SS, a basket case barn car, but with the original (hurt) block, plus a JH coded spare std. bore block. 12/68 build, pre-X code, but original block is still with the car to document what it was. NOS fenders, good floors and trunk, quarters need help, SS-! wheels are still with it, date matched 840 heads, 6223 crank std/std, non-original but '69 dated M20, original BV 4:10 still under the car. Needs complete going through, but worth it. Opinions on what price range this car would bring on the market today ? Cortez Silver, std vinyl interior, non-RS. Interested in everyone's opinions - 

1853

General Discussion / Re: headlight washer t valve

« on: June 22, 2012, 12:23:22 AM »

Check out Impala Bob's for complete valves with solenoids - he used to sell needles and small parts (like the lower half that commonly gets broken when you try to take them apart).