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Messages - z28z11

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16
Maintenance / Re: 68 Tilt column loose & turn signal switch removal
« on: October 28, 2021, 03:50:50 AM »
There are four critical tools to use in disassembly and reassembly - look at your Service Manual for the numbers of the pivot pin tool, special socket and the bowl (reassembly) driver, which keeps you from bending or crushing the collar when you drive it back in place after replacing the switch. I wish you luck in finding that one - that REALLY took a good while to locate.

Regards,
Steve

17
Decoding/Numbers / Re: '69 ZL2 350 Cowl Induction air cleaner
« on: October 27, 2021, 03:12:17 AM »
Pic of Warren Malkin's SCCA Z - evidently (according to the post) there was a GM part number for the ZL2 with no snorkle, it would add air flow when the flap was sealed. I just don't see it for street applications - I was wondering if fatigue or rust on the spot welds may have been the culprit. Running one for a long time without the heat riser tube could add to that (the spot welds I've seen over the years can be hit or miss. A pic will show if it was deliberate.

Regards,
Steve

18
Decoding/Numbers / Re: '69 ZL2 350 Cowl Induction air cleaner
« on: October 26, 2021, 07:58:07 PM »
There are several discussions and threads in the forum about this - I'll search through here when I have a moment. There are examples noted of the flat bottom up through about May if I remember correctly, but don't quote that yet.

Wonder why the snout is missing on yours ? There are generally 4 spot welds that hold it in place, some repops I've seen have 6-8 small ones. Share a pic of the mounting area if you think about - just curious as to why someone would remove it.

Regards,
Steve

Try this one, there are a couple of others in the archives:

 http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=14154.msg123981#msg123981

19
Maintenance / Re: 68 Tilt column loose & turn signal switch removal
« on: October 26, 2021, 05:15:03 AM »
Yep, took me almost a year to find one that was affordable (J-22598). About the only way to do it without damaging the top collar beyond recovery. I got pretty desperate to find one, I considered making one but fortunately one appeared before I made the leap.

Regards,
Steve

20
Decoding/Numbers / Re: '69 ZL2 350 Cowl Induction air cleaner
« on: October 26, 2021, 05:06:08 AM »
I've done this more than several times, made "reproduction" Therm A/C cleaners for this application (L48 auto w/mandated ZL2 air cleaners like Pace Cars). You'll need a donor 2 or 4 bbl period air cleaner (use a 2 bbl if you don't want to sacrifice a 4 bbl), hopefully complete with the green 4bbl vacuum valve and the hose clips on the bottom of the air cleaner - you'll need these to make it cosmetically correct amd functional, too. I carefully remove the snorkel without damaging the flange, drill out the spot welds holding the clip, then spot weld the snorkel to the cleaner body after spot welding the clip in place (only way to spot weld the clip is to reach through the empty snorkel opening with the tongs and spot it twice to position it and keep it in place). Do it this way and, as William says, it's undetectable.

No, the base is not date coded (I have an NOS ZL2 cleaner in the box to base this on). Remember, early ZL2 cleaners had a flat bottom where the filter sits, a raised rib version was a second design and the first design to be reproduced. Flat bottom cans are in reproduction if you want to use one -

ZL2 manual or automatic air cleaners all used painted lids, not chrome -

Regards,
Steve

21
General Discussion / Re: 1968 Camaro RS Z/28 Crossram
« on: October 25, 2021, 03:48:18 AM »
Pic of the trunk mat -

22
General Discussion / Re: 1968 Camaro RS Z/28 Crossram
« on: October 25, 2021, 03:44:02 AM »
" Deep undercoating was normal on East Coast/Rust Belt region cars, so I don't see an issue with it."

I don't see an issue with the undercoating, I do have an issue with the statement "No rust anywhere", where thers's smoke, there's usually fire.

No mention in the ad of the car soending time anywhere - I guess stranger things have happened than going from PA to California back to CT -

Pic of the trunk mat follows - notice the rust bubbles on the rib under the newer spatter paint, rust stains on the underside of the mat. Rusty bolt in the trunk, too. My problem is not with the provenance of the car, rather the claims of the dealer/broker. Caveat emptor -

JMO,
Steve

23
General Discussion / Re: 1968 Camaro RS Z/28 Crossram
« on: October 24, 2021, 05:33:17 PM »
Most of the documentation looks decent, as does the car itself. Two things I question about the car - the REALLY thick undercoating on the underside of the car - no mention on the window sticker, and the trunk splatter paint looks the same, really think and rough. The claim is "no rust", but the one view of the underside of the trunk mat shows a lot of rust stains that don't show on the paint. This car was sold new in PA, now for sale in CT, if it's been in New England all it's life, it had better had been garaged all it's life, never driven in the winter, or it's liable to have some hidden rust issues under all that undercoating and heavy fill primer/paint.

Otherwise, it's a pretty vehicle. I like the fact that all the take-offs are with the car. It's expensive for a '68, even with a likely reproduction cross ram, but I've seen worse cars sell for higher prices at BJ. And I happen to like OO Corvette Bronze RS cars -

Regards,
Steve


24
General Discussion / Re: Restomod Pacer
« on: October 22, 2021, 03:22:36 AM »
I notice the business owner references the fact that it came to them as a previously "restomodded" car, which had been poorly executed - I wonder if it may have even started life as a Dynacorn body. Make sme shudder to think it was a genuine Pace Car and then altered /modified to the current version. Just not my "thing" to see that, makes me shudder to think of hacking up original cars.

JMO -
Steve

25
Conversions can be done, fairly inexpensively. Please take a look at my friend's '69 Firebird 400 (I know it's not a Camaro, but at least it's a 1st. Gen F body). You can keep the original compressor, or you can start with a new or rebuilt as the system oil has to change to the 134 compatible oil; you 'll need new lines and muffler for the same reason (and a new drier, which would have to be replaced after the system is discharged or opened). The POA valve has to be gutted as it doesn't work well with the 134 in terms of expansion rates and system designs. If you have a local shop that's worth it, they should be able to coach you in preparing the system for the conversion (and will need to exchange the old freon and/or vacuum and charge the system unless you have a pump). My bud did everything but vacuum and charge the system, and I think the results were great in terms of cosmetics, and it blows cold. I'm not a Firebird expert - to me you have to look twice to see any differences from stock (the right angle 134 adaptor on the POA low side port is one clue).

The car is a convertible, by the way, a "BB" Bird, was a Turbo 400 swapped to a 200R4 for overdrive capabilites, complete ground up resto. Really nice ride -

Regards,
Steve 

26
Restoration / Re: wiper motor restoration
« on: October 19, 2021, 07:21:24 PM »
Good price -  verts held up better than coupes. My high school friend I bought my Z from was getting married, wanted $1800, I ended up buying for $1600. Had to sell my BelAir, but it was worth it.

Steve

27
Restoration / Re: Camaro and SS fender emblem attachment
« on: October 19, 2021, 04:17:39 AM »
Allen, from my experience emblems were all attached with speed nuts, most were dark (manganese) phosphated or (dull) cadmium plated. Although (many) service replacement speed nuts include a rubber or caulk-type sealer, originals that I've seen don't use sealer unless the sheet metal piercing is into the passenger compartment or the trunk such as for the tail panel SS emblem or the quarter panel gills.   

Absolutely, and I hate the danged speed nuts for what they do tp the emblem studs. Have to be way too careful when you install or remove to keep from either stripping the stud or breaking it due to the cuts the speed nuts make in the soft zinc or aluminum. Hateful, but you gotta use 'em -

Steve

28
Restoration / Re: wiper motor restoration
« on: October 19, 2021, 04:11:34 AM »
No problem whatsoever. Smart to buy your Pacer when you did - I looked for a good while to find the one I wanted (I've owned my '69 Z since '73, always wanted a Pace Car to go with it. Looked at what seemed like 100 cars until I found this one, a Southwest Zone car sold through a Houston dealership, Southwest car all it's life until I bought it). Some of the ones I looked at were Flintstonemobiles, with trees growing up through the floorboards. No lie -

Good/bad part about the Z - open headlight car, not an RS. Pros and cons both ways -

Regards,
Steve

29
Restoration / Re: wiper motor restoration
« on: October 19, 2021, 03:16:33 AM »
Picking my brain won't take very long, I assure you -

Hopefully I can relate what I've learned after dealing with these motors since buying my Pace Car in '94. Only options at that time were used units, no reproduction of any valve and coils at all. I searched high and low for pieces and parts, even attempted to have the valve reproduced by an injection molder, which proved too costly for me to undertake (mold was $20K +). I still have a GM produced print of the valve, but the current reproductions are really good and not very expensive as things go. Features and material colors are pretty darn close -

I use the original bolts for the motor housing - they were oxide finish, and painted with the housing, not zinc finished that I've ever seen ( I bead blast mine and paint with the motor). Crown of the original bolt is about half the height of the ones in your pic. Coils were batch dated; Heartbeat's dates are good, although the fonts are incorrect (if the pic I've included is clear enough, the October date on my coil is an original GM ink stamp). There is a pick of one of the 2 NOS GM coils I have to show what  the manufacturer stamped on the coil end frame - they were dated as well. I think the repops have caught up with that.

The best way to tell if the gearcase has been rebuilt is to look at the "rivets" holding the case halves together - they have 4 tabs bent back to lock the halves together, very difficult to close them up and separate the case without damaging the tabs. If the field coils and armature of the motor are reused, the only other things to consider are the brushes as a wear part. You gotta consider these are tough little motors, and even in rainy climates were not used every time the car was driven - most used motors still have a good service life left.

As I said before, I think your unit looks good, just a couple of cosmetic changes and I think you'll be all set. Hope I haven't caused you any duress - I apologize if that's the case.

Regards,
Steve

30
Restoration / Re: wiper motor restoration
« on: October 18, 2021, 05:41:05 PM »
Looks pretty good, don't forget the tag. Coil bracket should be zinc dichromate, labeled with GM part number, manufacturer and date of production and assembly date coded. Motor screws are new and appear to be a larger head than originals. Not being critical, just suggesting, as I don't know what your level of restoration needs are.

Regards,
Steve


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