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Messages - z28z11

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16
General Discussion / Re: RS Head Lamp Bezels Needed, 68 Z28
« on: April 16, 2022, 02:16:24 AM »
Jerry,

Here's a lefty. RH is a no-show, but I'll keep my eyes open.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144499516865?hash=item21a4d7a5c1:g:vGgAAOSw3ExiVEH-

Regards,
Steve

17
General Discussion / Re: 1969 Mirror holes in the doors
« on: April 14, 2022, 12:40:51 AM »
Sorry for the small picture size, actually from a old photo of my X77 in 1975 (notice it was reversed when it was enlarged). I added the sport mirrors to my Z, fortunately one of the only mods I made to the car (and easily supplanted with the original Guide mirrors). I always thought they looked better than the originals.

Holes in the door are correct. Left side controls slip right through, right side was manual (and stated "Objects in mirror are closer than they appear").

Regards,
Steve

18
Maintenance / Re: Alternator not charging/ starter switch ground
« on: April 12, 2022, 02:14:56 AM »
Here's a couple of pics that might help from the Chassis Service Manual. I notice you didn't mention the junction block on the radiator support, which supplies voltage from the alternator back into the battery. Check the voltage at that point with the car running, might give you a clue as to what the battery is seeing in terms of voltage. Also check the voltage output at the back of the alternator, should be 14.25 volts at about 1700-2000 rpm. If not, I'd suspect another problem to be the alternator.

12.6 volts on the battery is fully charged (as you noted), anything below 12.2 is considered discharged (although you can still likely start the engine). Your ignition switch should have 7 wires on it, I susoect the 20 guage black wire (6 o'clock position on the switch here in the wiring diagram) is the one you are missing ? That shouldn't have an impact on the charging system in my estimation. I meant also to ask if the wiring at the voltage regulator has been re-assigned, or is the original harness intact ?

Don't laugh too much, but I recently discovered the prudence of carrying a battery jumper with me, due to a failed battery on my wife's Tahoe when we least expected or needed it. I borrowed an Imazing jumper from a kindly Samaritan in the parking lot, and cranked it right up. Battery showed 10.3 volts, new GM electronics won't start with that kind of voltage. I did, however, get a text from Onstar about 15 minutes later that my battery was low, and to start the vehicle immediately. Honest -

Regards,
Steve

19
Decoding/Numbers / Re: 1969 Z11 CL Find
« on: April 09, 2022, 03:07:11 PM »
It could be an M20 or M21 - how many Munice 4 speeds have you seen over the years advertised as an M22, when they are everything from early 7/8's shafted 325 case Muncies to '70's model fine splined input 400 outputs ? A bunch -

Car looks decent, LA/VN Pacers are tougher to identify per se. All numbers and engine documentation are needed as Ed says -

Regards,
Steve


20
Originality / Re: Water Pump for Flint Built 327 LF7 with V0206ME
« on: April 09, 2022, 02:46:22 PM »
The 608's stretch back at least until the early 60's, Corvettes included - and up until the short pumps ran out of applications (the last being truck applications). No dates could be an omission during assembly, or late production - the other (generation ?) or mold number on the pump might help weigh that out. The '67 dated Flint pump I bought has a low GM casting code compared to the '68, '69 an '70 pumps I've looked at -

If you haven't done so, add the part number to your saved searches on eBay, and it will notify you every time a new one is added to the list. Keep looking, and you're liable to find one fairly quickly. Or contact Bill Mock mockauto.com), he probably has more than several ready to go in stock in your date range. Lifetime warranty, rebuilt properly. Check out his website -

Regards,
Steve

21
Restoration / Re: The "new" OER Endura Bumper
« on: April 09, 2022, 04:34:23 AM »
You know, they really don't look as bad as the first generation reproductions. Here's a couple of shots of the set I sold Lynn, with a comparison to the first repros he tried to correct. I can see why people had so much trouble fitting the bumpers, and then you have to reshape the ends to match the original flexible ones (remember, Pontiac used the Endura tag, not Chevy).

Regards,
Steve

22
Originality / Re: Water Pump for Flint Built 327 LF7 with V0206ME
« on: April 09, 2022, 04:22:18 AM »
Here's a nice B-10-7 rebuilt Tonawanda pump for a reasonable price, but it's a Tonawanda. Plenty of Flint built pumps on eBay, just not quite the right date code you need. I looked for a considerable amount of time for a 608 April '67 pump for my Nova, finally found a really good one and bought it last year. Now the internet has a ton of good cores around that date. Guess you just need to keep on lookin' - one will pop up. Popular pumps - better than trying to find a 326 for a '68 Z !

https://www.ebay.com/itm/115325971380?hash=item1ad9f6abb4%3Ag%3AaO8AAOSwfzliN3T4&LH_ItemCondition=4

Regards,
Steve

23
Originality / Re: Water Pump for Flint Built 327 LF7 with V0206ME
« on: April 08, 2022, 01:48:13 AM »
The 608 is a '68 and prior "short" pump, it won't be good for a '69 and later "long" pump applcation. Obviously this one is an OTC replacement pump - also probably a rebuilt one, as it has the multiple application hole pattern on the snout. OE's were 4 bolt holes, small pattern for the '68 and earlier, larger pattern for the '69 and later -

 Just sayin' -

Steve

24
Restoration / Re: The "new" OER Endura Bumper
« on: April 06, 2022, 11:58:55 PM »
I didn't realize it had been 10 years ago we started this discussion - most of the pics are still there, check out the mods Lynn did with his mounting brackets.

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=9976.0

Shame I don't have another set of inners to offer - these were pretty good ones (although I never cleaned  them up before I shipped them !).

Regards,
Steve

25
Restoration / Re: The "new" OER Endura Bumper
« on: April 06, 2022, 11:21:30 PM »
The only difference in the GM and HBC is the HBC brackets are either waterjet or laser cut VS punched using a die and anvil.
IF you understand the forces involved when stamping a part vs waterjet cutting then you know the difference in the edge profile and stretch-shear induced marks in the Z direction.

I've not compared the HBC brackets to OE, just the OER's. Angles are appreciably different - our CRG member that bought my spare set extensively modified his to get them to fit, unsuccessful until he bought mine, as he related.
Due to the comound angles and bends in the right and left inner brackets, they either have be stamped or drawn in a stamping or hydroforming operation. not simply blanked or cut out with a plasma or water jet operation. The beginning blank plate could be water jetted, plasma or flame cut (unlikely), but it still has to be formed either in a stamping press or forming die. Any repro in my estimation would still not be identical unless it used the original tooling to (re)produce it. My best thought over many years is to use OE parts wherever possible and affordable.
I do understand the forces and differences involved - I've been in the industrial tool and die/cutting tool industry for 45 years. Retired and using that experience and training keeping my grandkids -

Regards,
Steve

26
Restoration / Re: The "new" OER Endura Bumper
« on: April 06, 2022, 01:30:26 AM »
One suggestion I might make - you mentioned you used the OER brackets (I believe) - you'd be better off using OE brackets if you can find a set at a reasonable price. One of the CRG members went through this same routine years ago - I furnished him with a very good condition bumper that I had as a backup, he evidently went through a lot of trouble trying to fit bumpers up to the repro brackets, and determined the angles were different enough to cause positioning problems. He bought a pair of OE brackets I had, and finished his installation. In comparison, you can see the differences between the brackets without much trouble.

Just my opinion -
Steve

27
General Discussion / Re: Main Caps
« on: April 05, 2022, 02:22:56 AM »
An example of a 3932388 four bolt block w/ nodular mains - unfortunately the block was decked, we'll never know what it was out of or intended to be. Currently there are 2 or 3 HB coded L48 3932388 blocks on eBay, all with 2482 nodular 4 bolt main caps on board. There are also several 2 bolt versions listed -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/353066712849?hash=item52346a7f11%3Ag%3AYJcAAOSwmaBerQNs&LH_ItemCondition=4

Over the years, i've seen relatively few of these compared to 386's, 010's or 6618's. CBTN mentions they were fairly unknown as far as heritage was concerned -

Steve

28
General Discussion / Re: Main Caps
« on: April 05, 2022, 12:00:05 AM »
388 blocks were common. The scarce part is the 388's assembled at Flint.

My 2 bolt L48 block had a TH400 behind it...

I don't disagree - my HB code L48 388 block is a Tonawanda graduate. For some reason, I've seen and heard of several of these showing up in Z11's, any specualtions ? Maybe the transition period from 3956618's to 3970010 blocks ?

Steve

29
General Discussion / Re: Main Caps
« on: April 02, 2022, 03:27:50 PM »
One other application that sometimes used nodular mains - truck applications. Plenty of 3970010 blocks around with 4 bolt mains, and a moderate amount of 2 bolts, including 3932386 blocks and 3956618 blocks (both of which were listed as 327 and 350 casting numbers). All three casting numbers were used in '69, high and low performance. No evidence that any of the two bolt varieties were ever equipped with nodular mains after 1968 (when the four bolts were issued in '69).

As an afterthought, there was one other 4 bolt 350 block used in '69 - the 3932388 block. I have the L48 version of that one in my Pace Car -
if I remember correctly, there was an example or two of this block showing up in '69 Z's. Fairly scarce number -

All of these show in the CRG Drivetrain Decode - CBTN explains the numbers and applications as well. 

Regards,
Steve

30
I'd contact Don Lightfoot (sedanss69@hotmail.com) and put your request in. He does awfully good reproductions, dead on, just sent me the emission decals for my '69 Z and '69 SS, plus a repro dash cluster tag for my '67 SS I asked him to reproduce. Perfect work - he's helped quite a few of the CRG and Corvette guys.

Regards,
Steve

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