Messages

1276

Maintenance / Re: Running Hot?

« on: August 07, 2014, 02:49:03 AM »

De-vane the pump - the rotor spins, but doesn't pump air, obviously. Block the vacuum tube for the divertor valve.

You can use roofing nails (galvanized) in the extension tubes - seals off the extension tubes, flat surface to seal on. Drop them in, tighten the tube fitting and you're all set.

My opinion - others ?

Regards -

1277

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor..another

« on: August 06, 2014, 02:29:57 AM »

Overall, the car looks good - but a lot of details that should have been attended to that would have made it even more attractive.

It amazes me that people will overlook the obvious things that don't add up - or maybe they don't care ? Five will get you 10 that whoever ends up with the car will proudly trumpet it's originality (according to the seller). Anyone notice it's the same ad text style as William's previous Caveat Emptor post ? Curious -

I like the hand stamping of the VIN above the filter - nice spacing.

1278

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Brake Booster code and date stamp

« on: August 05, 2014, 02:58:56 AM »

Either would probably work, although they both are a ways out. Read this:

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=9416.0

There are lot of threads devoted to boosters here - search "brake booster" and you'll see a bunch of discussions -

Regards

1279

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Brake Booster code and date stamp

« on: August 04, 2014, 02:20:09 AM »

I would think 71-72 Nova w/ discs, which would explain a 194 of 2 Julian date. Speculation at this point -

Regards -

1280

General Discussion / Re: Caveat Emptor

« on: August 02, 2014, 04:35:35 AM »

Same seller, 4 bids already. Someone close to PA needs to call this guy's bluff, if it is one. Looks like an offshore deal by the way the ad is set up -

1281

Originality / Re: Anco Aero Wiper Blade ID

« on: August 01, 2014, 09:20:06 PM »

Adds weight to the previous statement - anyone have a box of GM part #3888296 laying around ? I'd sure like to see them to understand what the differences are between them and the Trico listing right below it for Camaros (other than a 1/4" of length). My old Anco 815 refills fit both Trico and Anco blades -

Regards -   

1282

Originality / Re: Anco Aero Wiper Blade ID

« on: August 01, 2014, 08:54:03 PM »

And, if you were ever curious as to Anco being an OEM to GM, consider these :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/65-66-67-68-69-CHEVELLE-IMPALA-CAMARO-CORVETTE-NOS-WINDSHIELD-WIPER-BLADES-ANCO-/281321265487?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41800dd94f&vxp=mtr

Turns out, John W. Anderson actually invented the replaceable wiper blades in the 30's, Anco sued Trico (and was in litigation with them for 7 years in a patent infringement case) in the late 50's early 60's from what I understand. Anco is currently a division of Federal Mogul . Makes me wonder a little more if they might have been available OTC or as OE on some GM products in the late 60's -

I do believe Anco and Trico have swapped OEM status with GM over the years - whoever had the lowest bid at that bid moment, probably.

1283

Originality / Re: Anco Aero Wiper Blade ID

« on: August 01, 2014, 08:18:57 PM »

$10 is not bad when you consider these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-15-INCH-ANCO-WIPER-STOCK-NO-815-/141338935534?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20e87500ee&vxp=mtr

I've seen them advertised for as much as $250 a pair (although you'd have to be crazy to buy them at that !)

By the way, I've seen these as early (bright polished) editions, and the matte finish late models, on Corvettes, plus the 18" blades on Mopars. They may be aftermarket, but I've seen a lot of pairs sell for large prices, plus even Classic has them advertised in the catalog as repops. Coincidental, I'm sure.

1284

Originality / Re: Anco Aero Wiper Blade ID

« on: August 01, 2014, 03:58:55 AM »

My '69 Z was equipped with them when I bought it, as was my Z11. I have both the sets, plus several NOS sets and refills I have bought over the years. I can share any numbers and features that you want to compare - I can dredge them out this weekend. I know the blade holders have patent info on them, possibly a date code, as do the inserts. Love those Red Dots -

I asked about originality many years back from a well known Chevrolet guy - he told me in no uncertain terms that some Camaros were equipped with them (from GM), particularly Z's and SS cars. I wouldn't mind hearing opinions from our internal experts -

1285

General Discussion / Re: Shift knob

« on: August 01, 2014, 03:40:05 AM »

I used to make sure I had gloves on in freezing weather - grabbing the T handle before the heater could warm up was a memorable experience. Both of mine (one from 1973 - on my '69 Z, the other was on my '68 Z in '96) are plain aluminum finish.

1286

General Discussion / Re: Shift knob

« on: August 01, 2014, 03:04:50 AM »

Shoot - mine looks better, $5.00 at the local swap meet. I sold one a year ago, same shape, for $40.00 plus shipping. I know they are aftermarket; like my Hurst "T" handles, they are vintage cool to me.

The older white ones look like ivory when they acquire enough skin oil -

1287

Maintenance / Re: Running Hot?

« on: July 31, 2014, 02:57:55 AM »

You don't have a cooling problem, you have a typical fuel percolation problem, aggravated by low E10 fuel boiling points.

Since John brought it up, let's discuss fuel for a second - any local station carry straight (non-ethanol) gas, and/or what are you running through the motor ? I would not recommend any E10 gas for any early engine, especially one that uses neoprene tipped needles in the carb, or rubber fuel lines. Like John indicates, the percolation is a problem, plus the stuff eats everything else, and has an affinity for moisture build up in the tank. Nothing draws a vacuum worse than ethanol in my opinion. Find a race gas distributor and run 100+ octane unleaded, or blend it with non-ethanol regular to stretch it.

I would, regardless, clean the cooling system completely, especially if the motor sits for a decent while without running up to operation temps regularly. Buildups are inevitable internally to the block, heads and radiator - keep them clean and they'll function accordingly.

2 cents -

1288

Maintenance / Re: Running Hot?

« on: July 29, 2014, 10:26:47 PM »

Really does begin to sound more like a flow problem. Flush the system with the best product you can find, change the water pump and the thermostat. Check and/or change the cap - you need to run about 12-15 psi in the system to make it work properly. If no big improvement, I'd take the radiator out and replace with another known used clear radiator, or a cheap repop just to isolate the problem. Or, just core the old one like most of us are having to experience.

What does the coolant look like ? Dark colored, any foam in it ? Leaking head gaskets can cause hot spots/steam pockets like this. Oil clean ? Any coolant contamination ? Hoses collapsing ?

Bad flow across the radiator could also be a culprit, as we conjectured before. Bet the lower half is plugged - that's why the temp is so low in the bottom half.

One other thing - I witnessed a big block Chevelle do this once upon a time - turns out it was spun bearing (main), causing the engine to not only run hot, but choke down and die when it warmed up enough to start galling on the crank. Check your oil pressure with a mechanical gauge, and a mechanical temp gauge if you can. Just to make sure -

Regards, and good luck -

1289

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Date code of part boxes

« on: July 29, 2014, 02:14:12 AM »

Likely -

Date codes appeared a lot of times not only on the labels, but also on the boxes themselves. I have seen plenty of examples both ways -

Regards -

1290

Restoration / Re: New body?

« on: July 27, 2014, 03:28:10 PM »

Plenty of rusted-through convertibles around for donor cars -

http://nashville.en.craigslist.org/pts/4495632099.html

Of course, that requires another hulk purchase, but at least it might be more fun to build and enjoy, plus have a higher resale value.

Then again, you can do a coupe, resto-mod it, BB clone it, anything you want to achieve. Considering your coupe is not a high option car, you could make it into any combination without remorse for obliterating an original car. That to me is the other side of having a new (Dynacorn) repro shell.

Regards -