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Messages - z28z11

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1246
Restoration / Re: AM Radio
« on: September 27, 2014, 05:51:22 PM »
DO use the bracket - otherwise it puts a lot of weight on the plastic dash bezel - might break it or the shaft recesses. Find a used one, or get a repro - a lot of them around.

You can use the 70-71 AM's, as long as the backlight screen/lettering is green and not blue. I think the power connector is a little different starting in '70, maybe later in '71/'72, but it's been awhile since I looked at 'em. Dimensionally they should be identical -

Regards,
Steve

1247
Originality / Re: 1100837 alternator
« on: September 27, 2014, 05:38:56 PM »
Posting a pic is pretty easy - set your camera or phone to a macro setting for good resolution on a close up shot, take the pic, transfer it to 'My Pictures' on your computer. When you copy it from the camera or phone, make sure you copy as a jpeg (or jpg) file. Download any software that you would like to resize with from the internet (I use Light Image Resizer. it's free), resize to 800X600 resolution, and then save it under whatever file name you wish. When you reply on the site, just browse at the add pics area, find your file, and open - it will add it to the post. You can then add additional pics (up to four total per reply, files cannot be larger than 200 kb per attachment, 4 total per post. You're done -

Hopefully this helps; somebody correct me if I've got the string wrong. When I switched from a Blackberry to an iPhone, I had to go through the learning curve again due to the enormous file size generated by the high resolution iPhone camera. This works for me -

By all means post a pic. There are an awful lot of restamps out there - if you're unsure about authenticity, I'm sure you'll get a large number of responses if that's what you're needing -

Regards,
Steve

1248
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Flasher Units for 1969
« on: September 27, 2014, 05:04:05 PM »
Tim,

Sorry it took a while to respond - had to wait for the weekend.

Here's pics of mine - on the car when I bought it in '73, stored inside (sealed) since 1980, fuse panel as well. If someone has a different flasher edition, please post it.

Regards,
Steve

1249
Originality / Re: Master cylinder cover
« on: September 14, 2014, 02:44:56 PM »
Chick,

Wow - what a piece. Time capsule -

Regards,
Steve

1250
General Discussion / Re: My New '68 Camaro Z/28 Butternut Yellow
« on: September 14, 2014, 02:41:27 PM »
Steve, I did NOT take it out yet. I guess I just continue the wire to the coil, but bypass that resistor? I wonder if the dist. is out 180?

There is a resistor wire built in to the harness - controls the voltage to the coil, adding another resistor reduces the voltage even further. As long as you're running a stock coil and stock wiring harness, take it out of the loop.

180 out will run similar to the symptoms you described, but usually backfires quite a bit. Valves wouldn't be adjusted incorrectly if it starts and runs that easily. Ignition is the most likely culprit, followed by fuel delivery. Check your float/fuel level in the carb ?

Regards,
Steve

1251
General Discussion / Re: My New '68 Camaro Z/28 Butternut Yellow
« on: September 14, 2014, 02:35:25 AM »
Danny,

Did you take the non-stock ballast resistor out of the ignition circuit, or leave it in ? It could be restricting your voltage from the coil enough to run you out of the energy needed to keep it firing. Stock coil ? Probably don't need one with a stocker -

I ran one for years (ballast resistor), but only when I was running a Mallory Voltmaster coil, stock distributor, to keep from burning the points up too quickly.

Just my opinion -

Regards,
Steve

1252
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Earliest vin by the oil filter.
« on: September 13, 2014, 02:23:27 PM »


Is your spare block from a Camaro, Steve??

[/quote]

Yessir. In fact, the car it came out of is listed in Jerry's Definitive '69 book. Both blocks are Norwood - I understand Van Nuys was a little erratic in their execution of the stamping locations. Norwood apparently was more consistent once they made the changeover.

Regards,
Steve

1253
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Earliest vin by the oil filter.
« on: September 13, 2014, 01:06:58 AM »
My 12A L78 original block is stamped on the pad; the 12B L78 spare block I own is stamped above the oil filter. In between those two build weeks, I would guess. Dunno if it would differ between small or big blocks - I severely doubt it.

By the way, the location of the cast date codes on these two "272" blocks differs as well - one is above the pan rail on the side of the block, one is above the bellhousing flange at the upper rear of the block. Just thought I'd throw that in -

Regards,
Steve 

1254
Restoration / Re: She's Painted!
« on: September 08, 2014, 11:27:57 PM »
Great looking job, firewall or not. What a bumble bee - or yellow jacket, if you prefer. Really pops -

Regards -

1255
Restoration / Re: Wire files??
« on: September 08, 2014, 11:24:53 PM »
Gary,

Sorry it took me a while to answer - I didn't realize that I had a response waiting. Yes, I have used the really fine wires before - the kick for a while when I was much younger was to take a Buffalo nickel, drill a starter hole in it, then either cut the detail of the Native American (note political correctness) out, or the buffalo on the reverse. Cool, but a waste of a coin (unless the date was unreadable). A bit of labor, but easy to do if you took your time. Fine enough for your detail work ? Likely -

Regards -

1256
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Date code of part boxes
« on: September 07, 2014, 04:55:53 PM »
And yet, sometimes the date codes/package markings make little sense from carton to part.

Note the date code on this 9/68 NOS 4919674 coil - you guys with '69 RS cars know this part - discontinued in the mid-late 70's, manufactured 9/68 but the box flap makes no sense date-code wise (if it is a date code). Wagner Box in Buffalo was the carton manufacturer, for Rochester Operations, Rochester, NY.

Back in the good 'ole days when it was made in the U.S., packaged in the U.S., used on the best.

Regards -

1257
Restoration / Re: Wire files??
« on: September 03, 2014, 01:05:18 PM »
Try this:

http://www.micromark.com/jewelers-saw-blade-set-12-super-fine-12-ultra-fine,6750.html

Either the jeweler's saws in super fine or ultra fine or the razor saws would work very well for fine detail cutting. Since they are really for metals (I've used them on silver) they should last through more than a few grilles - pretty inexpensive, too.

Regards,
Steve

1258
Maintenance / Re: Timing out of wack
« on: August 26, 2014, 02:54:50 AM »
One other question - did you build/rebuild this distributor, or remove the distributor gear during assembly of the distributor (did you use a Pertronix, or did you build this one from parts ?).

Regards - 

1259
General Discussion / Re: Found Some More Pics of the Green L78
« on: August 24, 2014, 10:20:38 PM »
I noticed your Dad painted the front suspension pieces white - a former owner of my '9 Z did the same thing, before 1973. I guess it was the "thing" - saw a lot of gasser-style 55-57's back then painted the same way.

I spray-bombed mine black not long after I bought the car - at the very least, it helped protect the A arms a lttle bit. When I beaded them back in the early 80's - no pits, minimal rust.

Car looks great - I'm sure it will look even better in the near future -

Regards -

1260
Restoration / Re: 68 z28 standard grill colors
« on: August 22, 2014, 03:04:11 AM »
i have a 68 z28 that needs a new grill center section. it is silver in the middle and black on the flat edges. i can order one from rick's 1st gen , but it comes gray and states that it needs to be painted. what colors would that be? argent silver and matte black? any help would be appreciated, or do you know of anywhere i could get one already painted. thanks.

Mine is Argent w/ overspray, no black. Upper and lower moldings are black, appear satin like Jon says. I also have an NOS grille that needs painting, kind of a dull blue gray color in the box.

Send a pic of the flat areas painted black if you will - trying to compare which areas on yours are painted.

Regards,
Steve

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