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Messages - z28z11

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1186
General Discussion / Re: Bad Luck is Better Than No Luck; Right?
« on: January 03, 2015, 10:11:28 PM »
I do suggest using a slightly larger gas tank -

Regards

1187
6-cylinder Camaros / 1967 Camaro vert 6
« on: January 03, 2015, 04:07:33 AM »
If I can get this link to paste, here's one that popped up on Craig's -

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4820524432.html

Pretty good looking car, if it's not a scam -

Regards,
Steve

1188
Restoration / Re: restoring YH rims
« on: January 02, 2015, 06:01:33 PM »
Try POR 15, too. Fills pits, pretty tough stuff to remove.

Regards,
Steve

1189
Decoding/Numbers / Re: 1968 Camaro Z-28
« on: December 29, 2014, 09:31:13 PM »
Welcome to the CRG -

Some other quick clues:

Four leaf rear springs (if original springs). Newer appearing springs obviously trump this -
12 bolt rear dated to the car (could always be replaced or sourced, but dated rears don't grow on trees).
Muncie speedo cable location through firewall, plus a manual trans reverse harness (can be added, but some fakers don't remember all the time)
Rear bumper guards, or the holes through the rear panel if guards are missing. (can obviously be added, but people sometimes forget).

Gauges and tachs don't always indicate a Z, but if everything is there and dated to the car build, it just can add some possibilities.

We've had many discussions about '68's before: all of the above indicators can be added or faked - nothing works better than original paperwork from the State or previous owners (some of which can also be suspect). Good luck, and post what you can to let us shower you with opinions -

Regards,
Steve

1190
Danny,

Anco 815 blades fit the Trico holders, too. You should be able to transplant from one to the other -

I still use my Red Dots - been through this discussion before, but they were on 2 of my cars when I got them; both sets with a lot of age to them (even in '73). I don't really care if the Trico blades were OEM - Red Dots are stilll my choice (plus they look good on the car(.

Regards,
Steve

1191
General Discussion / Re: 1968 Camaro Z/28 Sequoia Green
« on: December 27, 2014, 07:41:30 PM »
Clearly a restamp.

124378L340400

Agreed. Aren't the VIN characters a little too even (and too close to the head) for original stampings ? JMO -

Regards,
Steve

1192
Originality / Re: DF rally wheels
« on: December 27, 2014, 05:21:03 AM »
I have a 68 Camaro Z/28 that was built 04A. I have one original wheel that is a 15x6 with a upside down DF code. Is this correct? Original tire is still on it so I can't check the dates on the inside of the rim.

No date code at the valve stem ? '68's were DF 15X6, with a narrow trim ring compared to the '69's, very noticeable.

Mine have the date codes stamped to either side of the valve stem opening, near the DF -

Regards,
Steve

1193
Originality / Re: YH Ralley Rims
« on: December 27, 2014, 05:17:28 AM »
I see The Eastwood Company offers "rattle cans" that are Satin Black but does not offer paint in small quart cans. Where should I buy my paint products ?

It becomes a matter of personal preference - I used PPG, lots of opinions around the site. I've also seen a lot of varying colors and gloss types over the years. I was very satisfied with the finish on my SS wheels -

Regards,
Steve

1194
Nice score Chris!  I had a 68 in high school when it was 3 years old.  Brings back lot's of memories.  The car cost me a whopping $1,100. with 54k on the engine.  Lemans Blue, blue interior.  Traded it in, 1974....for get this a 73 Vega GT.  Now for the tragic part......the dealer gave me $650, for a perfectly good, stock Z/28.   What dope I was.

Enjoy.

Circa 1972, the only two polaroids I have.


Ever tried to run it to ground ? Any VIN records ?

I lived through the gas crunch myself, but fortunately kept my Z.

At the least - you didn't trade for a Pinto -

Regards,
Steve

1195
I've attached a pic of the carb and stamped code.  Buyer got back to me about the distributor.  He said that the # is 1111467, which would make it the correct distributor for the engine.

Not trying to nitpick; carb center section is good, but the front bowl is not right (no bowl vent for the Z's, only L78's), plus the dashpot is later (vacuum tube is curved on originals). Probably assembled from parts.

Check the date on the 467 distributor - should be pretty close to the build if it's an original (finding one date coded correctly is not an easy task).

Point being: Everyone mentioned this before - don't take it for granted that correctly coded parts that are with the car guarantee originality. I know that's kind of redundant, but '68's are easy to pass off as originals to the unsuspecting and the enthusiastic would-be buyer. Keep your caution intact -

Regards.
Steve

1196
About all I'd like to add is it's similar to my '68, which is a documented car, with external sheet metal work done but in the wrong color. A lot to do from here, but I did buy it for a lot less than the your find. NOM, but has an original MO dated correctly ready to go back in.

I agree with all of the responses ahead of me - everything looks and points to it being what the seller is advertising. The only thing left to consider is the distance between what your final negotiated price and the market value of the car. If you can complete the car under the market value, I'd say go for it. Prices hold pretty steady on first gens, regardless of the economy (outside of a few fliers now and then). I don't think $32K is unreasonable, but it would be even better for less - I'd buy it unless it turns out to be a real Flintstone mobile. 

1197
Restoration / Re: cracked dash?
« on: December 18, 2014, 12:31:39 AM »
I've never personally used them, but you can try Just Dashes in CA, www.justdashes.com , (800)247-3274. Been around a pretty good while -

Regards,
Steve

1198
General Discussion / Re: owner history?
« on: December 14, 2014, 12:17:31 AM »
is there a way to get all owners history for a pre-1981 vehicle with the VIN?  i tried my county clerk but they would only give me last owner the vehicle was registered to.
thanks

I should have mentioned - if you are close to Nashville, go to the DOT office in Metro Center with a title, and request the history from them. They'll give you what they have up to the limits of the computer, and the names/addresses will be redacted, but at least you might be able to tell how long it's been in the state. My '68 was sold new in TN, had a lot of owners, but went all the way back to the dealer info, options, MSO, all of the owners. 1/2" thick stack of documentation for $15.00. I was lucky -

1199
Restoration / Re: N40 with C60
« on: December 13, 2014, 11:34:39 PM »
Pain it is.

I found the two this afternoon - please see the pics. If you have dealer close, have them run the 2 part numbers through the locator and see if anything is still around. Occasionally, dealers will dump obsolete inventory and list things that they've had on the shelf for years (and then again, sometimes they just dump them). Worth a shot -

BTW - AMK sells the 3841724 bolt under AMK B-10162, looks great. Page 15, carriage and hex bolts.

Regards,
Steve

1200
General Discussion / Re: owner history?
« on: December 13, 2014, 11:16:09 PM »
tennessee but 1 of the owners may have moved out of state.

Up to a few years ago, Tennessee DOT would give you every piece of paper associated with the car from the time it entered the state, including title history, registrations, dealer paperwork if it was sold new in state - for a $5 fee. It moved some time ago to $15; they started redacting the names, and now they won't go to the archives and look (they say we don't have the manpower or overtime to do it). You can still get current title history, but no look up in the microfiche files. Bummer -

The state gave me two of mine over the years, both Z28's, complete right back to the dealer invoices and MSO's. I researched many other cars over the years, and really hate the fact that the State quit providing the old histories.

Regards -

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