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Messages - z28z11

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1
General Discussion / Re: Keep on working on your cars! (a little humor)
« on: December 04, 2021, 05:03:25 PM »
Looks like Sumner County to me, but Iím pretty defensive - lol

2
General Discussion / Re: Keep on working on your cars! (a little humor)
« on: December 04, 2021, 03:13:39 AM »
I would make a comment about pet possums, but I will not offend the OP by questioning what state the homeless guy is from - lol.

Good one, Gary -

Steve

3
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Ebay Pacer
« on: December 03, 2021, 01:51:57 AM »
Nice shiny surface on the block deck, too. Never knew the deck broach was so perfect a cutting tool not to leave some kind of marks - impressive.

Regards (and as always, JMO), 
Steve

4
CBTN lists the '68 350/295 horse L48 as 1111168 as mentioned above. 1111169 was used on 396/325 all, and 396/350 horse A/T only versions. Funny, no 168 in the Chevelles, as the L48 was not included in that lineup, only the Chevy ll and Camaro. The 169 made through all three models.

Regards,
Steve

5
General Discussion / Re: 1968 Z/28 Trim tag reproduction
« on: November 17, 2021, 03:57:57 PM »
Sooo many expert opinions being expressed on the BaT site for this car - incredible. Advertiser for this beautiful '68 is defending every detraction; some of the defenses don't hold up, like the comment about the crossram 'how much does it cost to cast one' ? (paraphrased). I can answer that- about $4-$8K for a reproduction unit complete, depending on who you buy it from. With Winter Foundry casting logo and proper part numbers, including date coded castings.

I can see the answer to the trim tag question - likely original, probably R&R'd during restoration (look at the paint behind it). I know it's a "no-no" to remove one, but a lot of shops will remove it to paint the firewall. Some owner in the past should have told them not to, but hindsight won't catch up with this one. I'm one of the guys mentioned with a documented '68 Z, 06B, dealer paperwork, MSO, complete history stretching back to 1968.

The car is really pretty, despite the detractions. Unfortunately, there are are a few on Facebook that don't agree with the facts presented on the originality of the car, including the seller. Caveat Emptor, as the saying goes -

JMO,
Steve

6
General Discussion / Re: 68 Camaro Suffers a Fire
« on: November 06, 2021, 02:59:57 AM »
Quick but true story - I drove my '69 Z back and forth from school in the early '70's, about 180 miles one way. Since I parked it on the street near the dorm (shudder, for real), I decided to equip it with a motion sensitive alarm, wired directly tp the battery, and added a short lenth of chain and a padlock to the hood to keep anyone from raising the hood to steal the battery or disable the alarm system. Driving one afternoon to the local mall, the car suddenly died, and smoke started coming from under the hood. I jumped out, popped the hood latch (like an idiot, no fire extinguisher handy), and reached in and grabbed the chain - wrong move. The chain had dangled over into the motion alarm and got caught up in the horn relay wiring, and produced a dead short to ground through the chain, It was RED hot, and burned the daylights out of me. Fortunately, when I pulled the hood open, it pulled the chain off of the terminal, and ended the short before it burned the car up. I took the chain off, the Z restarted, only damage was a couple of fried wires and blisters on my hand. Learned a lesson about unfused circuits.

The Z was parked on the street for a couple of years, I even left it there a few weekends and drove my girlfriend's Dodge home (slant 6, better mileage). Never a single problem with theft, vandalism, or anything else. Minor miracle and sickening when I think about it - really lucky.

Steve

7
Maintenance / Re: 68 Tilt column loose & turn signal switch removal
« on: November 06, 2021, 02:42:15 AM »
That's it - and it is a big chunk of plastic. Mine looked gruesome when I got it, cleaned up very well (but yours looks almost new). I couldn't gripe about the price - it was less than $20, probably 'cause it was filthy. Now, the real trick - if your pins are worn, finding new ones is gonna be a challenge. I've got a guy here locally that can possibly make a set if mine are bad (i've got 2 columns to rebuild).

Regards,
Steve

8
Maintenance / Re: 68 Tilt column loose & turn signal switch removal
« on: November 05, 2021, 02:43:47 AM »
I think it's both thin wall and a special diameter nut. Flat to flat inside measures .950", point to point is .974". Wall thickness over a flat is .072", over a point is .065". The nearist socket would be a 61/64ths, or somewhere north of 24mm metric, like 24.1 to 24.7. I knew they would make it for a reason -

Regards,
Steve

9
Maintenance / Re: 68 Tilt column loose & turn signal switch removal
« on: November 04, 2021, 02:21:56 AM »
I'll measure mine and determine what the diameter of the nut is - it's either really thin wall to reach inside the knuckle, or a special diameter nut or number of points. I have the one for '69 and up, I'll measur that one, too. Gotta be a reason why K-M made a special socket when a modified standard would work. I'll check it out -

Steve

10
Decoding/Numbers / Re: 67' Trim tag help
« on: November 02, 2021, 01:00:14 AM »
Discounting the sloppy VIN stamp, how 'bout the engine build code and casting dates - are they close ? VN has always proved to have some weird departures from Norwood - not just in the trim tags.

Regards,
Steve

11
Maintenance / Re: 68 Tilt column loose & turn signal switch removal
« on: November 02, 2021, 12:47:45 AM »
The J-22635 pictured os the one I mentioned - you could probably fabricate one to take it's place ( I found this one for cheap so I added it to the toolbox).

Steve

12
Maintenance / Re: Metering valve blow out
« on: November 02, 2021, 12:40:56 AM »
I read in the thread that DW had a leakage problem with one of his rebuilds until he found some contamination in the bore (which was causing the leak). I guess you just have to near NASA in watching for FOD internally -

Let us know the outcome -

Steve

13
Maintenance / Re: Metering valve blow out
« on: October 30, 2021, 08:34:27 PM »
Checkout the link:

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=18393.msg166910#msg166910

Did you get your parts from MCR ? If not, contact them and explain the problem. There are several threads on this common difficulty -

Regards,
Steve

14
Maintenance / Re: 68 Tilt column loose & turn signal switch removal
« on: October 30, 2021, 08:28:22 PM »
There are four critical tools to use in disassembly and reassembly - look at your Service Manual for the numbers of the pivot pin tool, special socket and the bowl (reassembly) driver, which keeps you from bending or crushing the collar when you drive it back in place after replacing the switch. I wish you luck in finding that one - that REALLY took a good while to locate.

Regards,
Steve

The pivot pin remover tool (J-21854) is available but I see where people have improvised here with other tools.

I have found several bowl drivers (J-21853).

 J-22599 is available also if that is the socket your referring to.

Yep. The 21854 tool is the pin installer as well (works both ways). There is one more tool, I'll have to dig it out for the number, looks like a very narrow screwdriver that's used on the retaining pins to push them out of the assembly. I'll try to locate it today and take a pic -

Regards,
Steve

15
Decoding/Numbers / Re: '69 ZL2 350 Cowl Induction air cleaner
« on: October 28, 2021, 04:27:58 AM »
The thread I referenced above contains the statement about the GM part number for the "snorkel less" cleaner - I didn't author that tidbit. I would, however, take the OP's word for it. It was Warren Malkin's car, and I can bet it was a legit statement. It wouldn't affect emissions as it wasn't an emissions system component in my estimation (and no air injection on small block '69 automatics, anyway - just the PCV valve). Remeber, the ZL2 manual trans cleaners had an open snout, no valve.

The pics above place it as a good GM OE cleaner, the four spots appear to me to have fatigued off, doesn;t surprise me - I've had a few you could literally flex a time or two and break off from the can - very thin metal, very brittle after welding. I've seen burn throughs on the original welds, too - very easy to do as you have to time your weld to a couple of seconds - if your spot welder has a timer it's a plus. Your cleaner is a likely second design, for the ZL2 L48 applications with automatic, and is actually very scarce. It's worth restoring -

I had an NOS '70 cowl cleaner with the ThermA/C snorkel - they were meant for LS automatic cars with the Cowl Induction option, shorter snorkel with a deeper angle to the mount, used a flexible larger diameter heat tube from the exhaust manifold shield. Would not work on '69 small block applications, I'm certain (I teied to use it on my Pace Car, gave up and built my first one as I mentioned earlier). 

One last tidbit or two - if you use a 2 bbl cleaner, the stub outlet under the ThermA/C valve is actually too long, you'll need to shoretn it a bit to get it to work with the heat tube. No bigee. Also, the four bbl Rochester used a sensor with a green plastic body, later replacements were black. Rochesters also had a double clip for the sensor hoses. Don't use a '68 snout - the hose bib is on the wrong side of the snout ('68 L48 heat shield and tube mount to the driver's side manifold, not passenger like the '69 ups. Just sayin -   

Regards,
Steve

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