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Messages - Everett#2390

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106
Maintenance / Re: Oil Pan Removal
« on: April 22, 2013, 12:27:41 AM »
I have R&R the pan with the engine in the car. As said, loosen fan shroud and let hang about the fan, lower rad hose is fine, dist cap is loose, and install 2X4 in engine mounts 4 inch side . Crank timing mark to around 5 o:clock position to get the counterweights into the block. If auto, remove dust cover for additional clearnace in removing pan. Man trans is limited by bellhousing, but can be done, Remove oil filter.

Replace crank seal and clean bearing cap and block with lacquer thinner or BraKleen®, then apply a small bead of RTV, 1/16 inch diameter or smaller from the backside of seal to pan gasket. One-eighth inch diameter bead about block to hold pan gasket to block. Rubber pan end gaskets get the same 1/8 inch diameter bead both sides. Install pan and torque bolts to manual specs, Let set overnight for RTV to cure, then pour in oil.

Pans do leak either from rust pin hole or a kink in the pan. Weld or braze pan after cleaning pan of oil, lacquer thinner again.

107
General Discussion / Re: 10 classic American muscle cars article
« on: April 15, 2013, 10:01:52 AM »
I didn't know the ZL-1 engine was hand assembled. Was it?
Yes, they were.

108
Originality / Re: rocker panel rubber flaps
« on: April 05, 2013, 12:24:38 AM »
Yep, my '68's and '67's Wife owned had them. Hindsight here, I should have kept them to sell later as I could have almost retired. I pulled them out to let the debris drain out and not collect.

109
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Just bought a 68 SS and need help
« on: March 12, 2013, 05:05:37 PM »
Not from the VIN, just whether the Camaro had a L6 or a V8.
Fastest visual check determining SBC or BBC is the heater core nipples location.
If on the firewall next to the trans tunnel = SBC
If on the heater cover plate above the frame rail = BBC
Next would be the frame mounts for the engine, SBC = equal helght in both sides; BBC has pass side shorter in height from drvr side.
I think

But most of all, correct year.

110
Maintenance / Re: PCV question
« on: March 11, 2013, 10:30:42 AM »
There are at least two different P/N', one for Z/28's & L88's, and the rest of the engine codes.
This is due to the lower spring pressure of the valve due to lower intake vacuum at idle, est 9 inches of vacuum.

111
Restoration / Re: Window Crank Questions
« on: March 05, 2013, 06:12:26 PM »
1. No, same handle
2. Knobs should be the interior color, but service counter replacements were clear, and black, I think, until supply ran out.
3. Springs go between the panel and the door to keep the panel against the handle and with the plastiic shim behind the handle, keep out the drafts.

112
If it were me, I'd find a good Plain Jane body, paint it to my liking, and stuff the drivetrain into it and have myself a sleeper.

The Camaro this drivetrain came from is long gone, only value would be for date correct build if one were going to build a clone,
and then the devalue of a cloned Z/28. Might be more honest presenting it as a PJ with Z/28 internals and enjoy the cruise with the car.
JMT's

113
Restoration / Re: Parking Lights will not turn off
« on: February 24, 2013, 11:49:05 PM »
Brown wire in switch connector in the wrong place.

114
Maintenance / Re: Penske 21015 dwell?
« on: February 20, 2013, 11:54:49 AM »
Put the two leads together to get full scale deflection, then adjust for zero.
Meter ready for use.

115
Maintenance / Re: 302 valve setting with roller rockers
« on: February 05, 2013, 01:27:49 AM »
Welcome, Shooter.
I have always used the EOIC method in adjusting the solid lifters with roller rockers on a Camaro I had.
'E'xhaust valve starting to 'O'pen, adjust intake valve.
'I'ntake valve almost completely 'C'losed, adjust exhaust valve.
You can start at the beginning of the firing order and follow it around all eight cylinders.

116
Decoding/Numbers / Re: 68 Camaro 4-speed Saginaw tranny
« on: January 29, 2013, 04:16:12 PM »
Apparently, the VIN does not match either?

117
Originality / Re: Is this a Fake?
« on: January 17, 2013, 04:44:46 PM »
IMO, it looks real because if you look at the lower edge of the tag, the surface image matches the firewall image.
Follow a contour line, let's say under the word 'TIME', the image between the tag and firewall match.

118
Maintenance / Re: Advice for tuning a stock-ish 302
« on: January 07, 2013, 03:17:01 PM »
You could run a slosh tube from Holley, they do work very well.
Or,  a hose between the bowl vents with the very top of the arched hose bologna sliced open for venting of both bowls.
As for the off idle stumble, 12°-14° BTDC timing, idle, even with the -140 cam, s/b around 900-1000 rpm, need alittle more bypass from secondary side.

If you have to stay with OE, why not drill out an OE size jet to the size you want?
If stumble, then try a bigger squirter, jump two sizes a step until gone.
Again, measure the new squirter size and drill out an OE size squirter?

119
General Discussion / Re: building a garage
« on: January 01, 2013, 08:42:55 PM »
I would at least, have a frig in the floor plan...

120
Maintenance / Re: Wheel bearing inspection and replacement
« on: January 01, 2013, 08:30:18 PM »
Rear axle bearing access is remove the C-clips and pull the axles out.
Now, you can use a sliding hammer puller and pull out the bearing and seal together.
You use SAE 90 wt lube on the outer surface of the outer race aiding in the bearing install into the tube.
Seal is next and sealant on the outside of the seal shell may not be a bad idea. Install squarely.
The axle is the inner race, you will see where the bearing rides on the axle.
The surface should not pitted, grooved, or missing any part of the surface, and the bearing surface should not be grooved deeply either.
A new axle may be warrantied.
Before installing the axle, spread a finger full of gear lube onto the bearing rollers.

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