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103340 Posts in 12156 Topics by 4691 Members
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271  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Owner and I believe this to be a Z (69) on: March 12, 2014, 05:44:05 PM
Am I missing something? Why do cars like this go for the prices they do? What possibly could be usable? At least this had springs and exhaust hangers. Scrap for cars, here in Ohio is about $250 a ton. A bare body like this is about 600 lbs. That comes to around $75. A guy I know, here, where I live, bought a 6cyl. coupe to make a pro-touring car. He bought a Dynacorn body and stripped this car completely including VIN. The tail panel and 1/4s where already cut off when he got the car the rest was pure rust and not one iota usable. I thought there might be something I could use for my upcoming body work, so I looked at it. It was worse than this eBay car and he told me he wanted $700 for it. Needless to say, it is still sitting at his house.
272  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Order of assembly when painting car on: March 12, 2014, 03:07:37 PM
Excuse my ignorance on this topic. I have never done this extensive paint work before. I may have read here, but worth hearing from those who have been through this. I am about to have body work done and painted if money holds out. my question: Should I have front sheetmetal hung on and painted and try and raise subframe back under car once home from the shop(I believe this is how assembly line did it)? Or, Have subframe installed and leave front sheetmetal off until all related work with front is done before installing sheetmetal? Or, should I have all areas "cut-in" and not paint car until all mechanical (engine/wiring etc..) is completed and then have body painted as a whole? Have subframe and sheetmetal installed and all painted and remove front end one home to do work on front areas(brakes/engine etc..? I want to know best and most cost effective as I don't have money to have shop do a lot of assembly although I will have them install glass and vinyl top and roofrail weatherstrip and headliner, I'm thinking at this point. I am sure body shop has an idea of how they would prefer, I just do not want to request something that is not practical or feasible.Thanks, knowledgeable CRGers.
273  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Correct Striping on: March 12, 2014, 12:07:16 PM
James,

The white stripe in your first photo appears to have been repainted, if you look just below the camaro emblem, on the spoiler, the white paint for the stripe is chipped, and there appears to be 'white paint' below it.  If this was original, wouldn't the color underneath the white stripe be the blue paint??  Or maybe what I'm seeing in the photo isn't reflective of the car itself?

To me, it looked like when the paint chipped it took both the white and the blue under it leaving the fiberglass (whiteish color) exposed. But, that is just my opinion.
274  Model Specific Discussions / Trans-Am Camaros / Re: 45th anniversary of the first Z-28 on: March 11, 2014, 09:57:27 AM
Jon, I have been wanting to ask, are you putting that 1/4 mounted gas cap back on? Looks like you are creating the "as raced" look.
275  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Another Restamp Sold For Big Bucks on: March 10, 2014, 10:36:26 PM
what is a Cheville ?
Well, you had to ask...http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/cheville also French for foot or ankle.

Back when I worked at a speed shop around 1980, and this is a true story, a fella came in wanting a part for a "Novelle". After trying to explain that there is no such animal, he insisted we look at his car to prove his ignorance. I and another co-worker went out to the parking lot and lo and behold, there it was, a Novelle! It was a Nova for sure, but someone had taken a Chevelle emblem and spliced the two together on the trunk,lol. So, there you have it...Novelle!!
276  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: CRG etiquette concerning parts on E Bay on: March 10, 2014, 08:16:02 PM
That's a little pricey. I have one that has been in my inventory since I bought my first camaro in 1975. Send me a PM, I would sell mine for half of that.
Buddy
That, my friends, is a true CRGer! Very kind gesture Buddy. I hope he takes you up on this. It is not even my car and I am excited for 69 SS X55. I hope we all can help each other get our cars finished. Thanks.
277  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 396 350hp fuel pump on: March 10, 2014, 06:29:17 PM
Dating pumps goes like this: 1965 rebuild-able pumps have a part number followed by 2 letters. 1st letter is month,2nd is year.An example would be : 4657KE (Nov. 1965) 1965 ended in E, 66=F
Crimped pumps were phased in around mid-year (June)1966. At this time the 2 letter dating preceded part#(at beginning). An example would be: GF40433 (July 1966) for 67 model year car. 2nd letter is year where: F=1966,G=67',H=68',I=69',J=70'. The months, 1st letter, are A-L=Jan-Dec. Starting in 1971 a new Julian alpha/numeric dating was used. An example :219K40956 (219th day of 1971)This would be for a 1972 car as this is late in the year, but shows that dates follow calendar and not model year. K=1971 remembering this includes 1972 models up to Dec 1971. L=72 and so-forth. Hawks pump is: 343K40727. The 343 is 343rd day of K=1971 (Dec  1971),which is late in year and considered a 1972 pump by model year production.
278  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 396 350hp fuel pump on: March 10, 2014, 02:20:49 PM
Thanks!   Couple more questions..
How does the date decode? 343=Julian date day of year? K=1973?
Do you know what the 69 code would be?
Also, can anyone tell me if the 69 model was bolted or crimped?

Again, Thank you!
To answer your question about bolted or crimped. The original pump look just like the picture provided by SgtHawk=crimped. Most GM pumps are crimped, I believe the ZL1 was bolted together and some early  pumps pre-67 and maybe some large truck comercial applications. I am sure someone will tell me different, but forgive my memory on this. The main point is the pump you want will be crimped.
Here is a thread of use and do a search "fuel pump date" and there are other posts. http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=11520.0

A side note: SgtHawk I think your pump is for H.P. application, i.e. L78. L34=40568
279  Model Specific Discussions / 6-cylinder Camaros / Re: L6 starters on: March 10, 2014, 12:11:13 PM
more pics:Middle is solenoid #, alum. front cover.
280  Model Specific Discussions / 6-cylinder Camaros / Re: L6 starters on: March 10, 2014, 12:07:27 PM
But that's not confirming the Camaro application. Smiley
Sounds like this starter had many 69 L6 applications.

Kurt
You are right. Best I could come up with. The mounting holes are straight across, one short,one long bolt.

281  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Can 67 SB Engine Frame mounts be accidently switched? on: March 10, 2014, 07:45:35 AM
   As I said the car is running fine now with no issues, this just "bugs" me that I needed that spacer.  Any ideas are appreciated.  I'm a little OCD and I just want it right.  My wife bought me a T-shirt for Christmas says; I have OCD and ADD,  so everything has to be perfect, but only for a little while.  Fits!!!   Thanks

Mike, Do you think we should start a club? Change the name of the site, here? Maybe start a support group? I got a big smile over what you said about OCD, because I am in that camp. I would venture to say, most of our members would fall into that group too as we obsess over our cars. I want one of those shirts too!!
I really do not think your mounts could be switched, but I do not have a 67, nor have I seen pics of your car, so will not comment any further. If you could just channel that energy that has you worried about your car and use it towards getting my car done,lol...see, I am obsessing over my car!
Sounds like you need to get that thing "un-packed" and start getting pictures posted. The sooner you get her back out of her cocoon, the sooner the weather will straighten out (weather is waiting on you and not vice-verse). Have a great day.
282  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: CRG etiquette concerning parts on E Bay on: March 10, 2014, 07:09:41 AM
Just don't be shocked if a CRG member bids against you.
Also don't be surprised if a fellow CRGer has the same item you are looking for and will make you a better deal, just because you are a member and contributor and they don't mind helping you out as long as they know it is not being flipped on Ebay.
283  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Z/28 stripes...pin stripes on: March 10, 2014, 07:02:54 AM
I assume (hate doing that) you are referring to the stripes that where on the wheel lip eyebrows. This topic was discussed just this past week regarding Z/28s in this thread: http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=11898.0  I know the topic started may throw you off, but at post #10 is where the stripes are addressed and JohnZ has an answer in post #17.
284  Model Specific Discussions / 6-cylinder Camaros / Re: L6 starters on: March 09, 2014, 02:11:06 PM
I'd like to confirm the starter usage on L6 cars.
So I'm looking for the original starter numbers off of any 67-69 L6 car.
Especially 67 since manual and auto may have used different part #'s.

Pretty sure the 69 L6 starter I have at home is 1108365. It will be a while before I can confirm that....

Thanks!

X2 Kurt. I can confirm a 1969 6 cylinder laying out in the shed (untouched/unmolested original down to heater hoses and air cleaner filter,which I personally pulled) has its original starter and it is 1108365 also. It also has McKinnon stamped on it as the car was of Canadian build (Buick). Also, there is a real low hour/mileage L6 GM engine (born with) in my 1969 Gleaner K Combine and it, too, has a 1108365 on it.
285  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: widow felts nos vs. A.Mrkt. on: March 09, 2014, 01:30:17 PM
 Wink Thanks Mike. I guess to try to clarify my position I have, up to this point, always bought original OEM or NOS items ONLY. I have not bought anything repro, quite proud of that, I may add. I am getting to a point in parts buying where I realize that repro will be the only route as the price of NOS is too high for me IMO. Most of the items I speak of are soft items like rubber, foam, plastic, and vinyl. Things like weatherstrips and trunk mat. The other items are pot metal where it might be too costly to re-plate. I am a purist and like things as correct as possible. If there is anything that falls under the categories mentioned (soft and pot metal) that the repro is just not acceptable because of appearance, fit and quality and is so sub-standard that it is obvious to most that it is not "correct" then I would like to know. I asked about felts because I have a chance to get a set of outer NOS. I know I would prefer to have them over the repro, but for cost consideration. I will compromise (or should say I have to) up to a point, but if the repro part is just flat wrong and a flimsy cheap imitation, I want to know and at that point, I will have to suck it in and get NOS.
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